Eyestylist

  | Eyestylist 28th December 2023

Independent eyewear: Frames of 2023 – ‘R4’ Liquid Sky by Kuboraum

Inspired by the 80’s dystopian post-punk cult movie, the latest drop from independent eyewear label Kuboraum presents works that are highly textured and fanatical about detail – the R4 mask has a surprising, highly elaborate handcrafted finish

Taking its cues from the 80’s post-punk cult movie, the new Ltd. Edition ‘Liquid Sky’ from Kuboraum is dedicated to fluidity: fluidity of identities, gender, aesthetics, and narratives, the designers explain. Rejecting fixed structures and normative concepts “to embrace the metamorphic state of being”, the line expresses a signature style at Kuboraum where each mask is treated as a work of art, richly textured and made utterly unique by means of striking adornments and embellishments. Above + below: part of the new Liquid Sky drop at Kuboraum – mask R4 in Shiny Black finish

Above: part of the Liquid Sky drop – December 2023 – mask R4 with Matt Black handcrafted finish

The ‘masks’ unveil bold chunky acetate frames, meticulously handcrafted to accentuate their rich texture and uneven ‘sculpted’ surfaces. To elevate the allure, each structure is eventually adorned with refined metal embellishments or subtle sparkling elements, to cast an enchanting, shimmering aura through the design. One of several models in the series, mask R4 is produced in Mazzucchelli acetate and features in several finishes including Black Matt and Black Shine as part of the Liquid Sky drop. The frames are made exclusively in Italy. Find out more at www.kuboraum.com

  | Eyestylist 27th December 2023

Collaborations: Yuichi Toyama teams with Armani

The Japanese eyewear label Yuichi Toyama has collaborated with Giorgio Armani for a luxurious capsule collection – made in Fukui Prefecture, Japan

A new collaboration has been launched between the Japanese eyewear brand YUICHI TOYAMA and fashion brand Giorgio Armani, offering a capsule collection which fuses Giorgio Armani’s Italian style with the latest Japanese technological innovation. Armani’s aesthetic vision has been complemented by designer Yuichi Toyama, who is known for pushing the envelope of Japanese manufacturing technology while also employing traditional Japanese craftsmanship. The resulting combination of Italian elegance and Japanese innovation delivers a nuanced effect, with lightweight, comfortable frames in Japanese titanium, created with subtle detailing and shading, and always blending form and function. Above: Giorgio Armani x Yuichi Toyama eyewear – campaign

A minimalist collaborative capsule collection – made in Japan: Armani x Yuichi Toyama
Armani x Yuichi Toyama AR 6147T sunglasses – a contemporary minimalist look

The designs employ YUICHI TOYAMA’s signature “Double Dutch” design, which was released in 2016. This took its inspiration from the “Double Dutch” game in which two “turners” face each other and spin a rope in opposite directions, while one or more jumpers simultaneously jump over it. The playful “Double Dutch” design has become synonymous with YUICHI TOYAMA, and its use in this collection enhances the minimalist silhouette and elegant functionality of the eyewear.

About Yuichi Toyama Yuichi Toyama developed his Made in Japan eyewear brand over 30 years.
The signature look of the collection derives from its ability to combine seemingly contradictory details and materials into harmonious designs.
The design philosophy is one which respects traditional craftsmanship aligned with an equally evident curiosity about the possibilities that come from the use of innovative technology.
The brand is constantly evolving as it pursues an expression of simplicity, elegance and timeless beauty. For more information: https://yuichitoyama.com

  | Eyestylist 20th December 2023

Kirk & Kirk to show at Pitti

The British eyewear brand will exhibit at Pitti Uomo in January – for the very first time

Kirk & Kirk will be heading to Pitti Uomo to introduce their latest hand-made acrylic sunglass collection to the men’s fashion stage in Florence. Already endorsed by numerous celebrities, the brand is promising a new sunglasses collection featuring eight styles for the fashion event, with an exciting, daring variety of sculpted looks, thick tailored rims and Spring/Summer colours with a vibrant glow.

The acrylic material featured in the collection – which is a signature of the brand – is light and colourful, and allows for a bold, chunky frame to be worn comfortably all day. Above: bold eyewear shape Ryan from Kirk & Kirk – pictured in Tiger orange

Bold and bright at Kirk & Kirk – model James

Creative Director Karen Kirk has a fascination with colour analysis; where colours correspond to seasons, based upon variations of warm and cool tones. The collection heading to Pitti will include an array of bright, trendy, characterful tones which range from Crimson Red and Cheeky Raspberry to Classic Tortoiseshell and warmer tones including Tiger Orange and Zen Sage.

Model Luke by Kirk & Kirk – in Zen Sage

For men, the collection is big on retro-inspired shapes and bold structured lines that lend individuality and contemporary edge. By means of a unique sandblasting technique, Kirk & Kirk is also able to re-shape their very own grade of Italian acrylic, lending it a refined and highly finished design style that stands out from the crowd.

For Pitti Uomo, Kirk & Kirk are showcasing eight shapes, each available in eight colours plus a series of limited-edition colours for Spring/Summer ‘24. All Kirk & Kirk frames are hand-crafted in Italy, and finished to the highest optical standards and fitted with fully protective
high grade lenses. Pitti Uomo takes place on 9th to 12th January 2024 (https://uomo.pittimmagine.com). For more information about the new collection launching at the show, visit www.kirkandkirk.com

For more information about the brand click on the link: https://www.eyestylist.com/2023/08/karen-kirk-on-the-contour-collection/

  | Eyestylist 12th December 2023

10 questions: Elena Serrano Pelaez, Optica Rosal 21

On a mission to allow as many people as possible to see themselves through stunning frames, Elena Serrano Pelaez founded Optica Rosal 21 – a curated, unique and ambitious eyewear boutique based in Oviedo, Spain. Eyestylist speaks to the entrepreneurial, passionate founder…

1. Tell us a little bit about the road you took to establish Optica Rosal 21? From the first steps I took, my passion for design, fashion, and art has been unwavering. My godfather played a crucial role in intensifying these emotions, guiding me through art exhibitions and fashion shops when I could barely spell my own name. As a teenager, the desire to establish my own business and share my feelings with open-minded individuals already burned within me. Passing optical shops, a fascination with the intricacies of the nose prostheses that enhance vision compelled me to dedicate my life to designer eyewear. This bold decision, made 18 years ago, marked my leap into entrepreneurship. Selling my dream to the bank, I secured the funds to establish my vision—a unique optical design shop challenging the norms in the North of Spain. Fortuitously, the local emphasis on quality and added value became my advantage. The love for my job, coupled with curiosity, instinct, and a passion for travel, allowed me to broaden my horizons beyond Spain and create a distinctive optical design shop.

2. What is it about your business that sets it apart from the rest? My motto, “Think outside my house,” holds great importance to me. While I avoid scrutinising my competition, my eyes are wide open to global developments. I am a perpetual learner, observing, absorbing, and seeking inspiration everywhere I go. This approach fuels my daily commitment to enhancing my shop. Unlike many opticians hesitant about change, I actively embrace it. I seek shifts within our business and, more significantly, in external factors like fashion, music, and street culture. Simultaneously, I invest in personal growth through continuous participation in workshops and training. This enriching process allows me to adapt and mould my shop in response to constant evolution.

3. What is your favourite era / genre of design and why? My affinity for women’s glasses from the ’70s, characterised by oversized frames, smooth shapes, and gradient lenses, reflects my admiration for their femininity, humour, and power. Brands and designers inspired by that era always capture my attention. The trend for men emerged in the late ’80s and early ’90s, featuring small, round, oval, or geometrical frames. Iconic frames, like those designed by Matsuda, gained fame through the film industry, enhancing the personality of male actors in movies like Alien and Interview with the Vampire. Above + below: Elena Serrano Pelaez founder of Optica Rosal 21

4. How do you identify and define your customer base? My customers are individuals who appreciate being different and unique. While some lean towards modern styles, a significant portion prefers classic aesthetics. They seek frames that stand out, avoiding common choices. Trusting our carefully curated selection of brands, they value the time and professional dedication we invest in their choices. Whether avant-garde or classic, they desire an extraordinary frame that aligns with their personal style. The process of choosing new glasses involves comprehensive guidance, addressing potential insecurities. We precisely explain how their chosen frame will enhance their image, reflecting our shared appreciation for design, high quality, and craftsmanship.

5. Is there a specific process you take to select the brands or frames you stock in-store? Categorising customers into four types, each associated with a specific brand, demands excellence in quality and service. These brands must evoke genuine enthusiasm, leading to a personal connection where I fall in love and experience butterflies in my stomach. Equally important is their DNA and storytelling aligning with mine.

6. What pair of frames, if any, illustrates your personality best? Evolution is a constant in my personality, reflecting in my choice of frames. Currently favouring vibrant colours—a departure for me—oversized frames remain a consistent preference. If I were to define myself with a brand, it would undoubtedly be Theo. Like Theo, I am not merely fashion; I am simultaneously very fashionable. Our evolution over the years respects core values while adapting to changing times.

Exterior of Optica Rosal 21

7. Do you think social media is an integral part of owning an eyewear boutique these days? In my opinion, social media is the primary window that opticians have in 2023. It offers a platform to communicate and inform customers, showcasing my identity and values—a personal brand. The dedication to this endeavour involves regular collaboration with my social media coach, ensuring I stay abreast of the latest trends and evolutions. My advice emphasises quality over quantity—favouring fewer but genuinely interested and loyal followers who, in turn, become advocates within their social networks. This approach fosters organic growth, focusing on genuine connections.

8. Would you rather: coloured or monochrome frames? Colour holds immense power for me, defining individuals. Encouraging customers to shift from neutral to powerful colours or glasses with colour accents involves a process that challenges them to see themselves without filters. Collaboration with brands strong in colour facilitates this shift, and successfully convincing a customer to embrace a brightly coloured frame brings me immense satisfaction.

9. Do you have any exciting news or updates on the horizon? This question excites me, coming at the perfect time. I am convinced that Spain is ready for more high-end optical boutique shops, led by opticians with a clear vision. Rejecting the conventional image of medical professionals, I emphasise showcasing passion and personality in this beautiful profession. Consequently, I created a platform for opticians eager to elevate their practices. I am proud to announce the participation of a European university certifying my efforts. Through direct mentoring, I aim to guide shops and opticians toward enormous change and progress, sharing the experience and knowledge accumulated over the last 18 years.

10. What is the big dream for Optica Rosal 21? The grand dream for Optica Rosal 21 is to see people from Oviedo and beyond adorning themselves with beautiful designer frames, understanding the transformative effect and benefits of high-quality eyewear. I aspire for Optica Rosal to be recognised for enhancing the aesthetics of individuals, providing not just unique eyewear advice but making a style statement. Dreaming big extends to my academy, with a focus on elevating the quality of the optical business in Spain. I genuinely believe that exceptional service and the offering of high-quality brands will reshape public perceptions of our profession. In conclusion, my promise is that by infusing fun into the eyewear buying process and emphasising business development over routine operations, we can trigger a transformative shift in how customers perceive our profession, leading to the growth of our businesses. In essence, 1+1 equals 3. Visit the Optica Rosal to get inspired at https://opticarosal21.com

Images by kind permission of Elena Serrano Pelaez, Optica Rosal 21. This interview feature was written by Victoria G. L. Brunton exclusively for Eyestylist.com. All rights reserved.

  | Eyestylist 6th December 2023

opti 2024: sustainability and innovation

The Munich fair takes place in January, with a programme of events centering around sustainability, innovation, and future trends

The international optical show – opti 2024, which takes place in a few weeks in Munich from 12th to 14th January, is preparing an event for a broad range of optical players and their products, with focus on key topics such as sustainability and innovation for the future. The show organisers will offer a Myopia Hub, Sustainability Hub and a new Trend Hub, in which future-oriented trends of the industry will be presented via the “Trendradar by opti”.

At the edition, the opti team is looking forward to hosting its inaugural opti Sustainability Award created for opticians, and honouring leading examples of sustainability in ophthalmic optics. In the fields of social, economic and ecological issues, relevant initiatives of the companies such as the design of their premises, approaches to avoiding microplastics, use of alternative energy resources, climate-neutral projects, diversity and much more are areas that have been monitored and studied in detail to arrive at a shortlist and winning retailer. The jury for this Award includes experts from IG Nachhaltigkeit. Above: the opti fair will take place over four halls in 2024 / photo: © GHM – the opti Sustainability Award will be presented at a special event on the Friday of opti in the Sustainability Hub

Rolf: Enya in the 3D printed wire collection, one of the latest additions at the Austrian label

A wide selection of independent brands focused on sustainable design are exhibiting at the event in Germany: they include innovators in natural materials, 3D printed frames and avantgarde sustainable design such as Rolf, Götti Switzerland, MYKITA, Vava Eyewear, neubau, You Mawo, LEINZ, Hoffmann Natural Eyewear, Andy Wolf, Sea2see, and Weareannu. JUNK PLASTIC REHAB are billed to feature this year in the Opti Boxes.

The new Logo Collection: a recent release by Gigi Studios from Barcelona

The fair promises a dazzling eyewear showcase of leading fashion brands, luxury collections and independent eyewear of all stylistic genres – from across Europe and further afield, including the very popular Spanish brand Gigi Studios (new Logo Collection), RAEN from the US, Orgreen Optics from Denmark, J.F.REY, FACE A FACE and Lafont Paris from France and RES/REI and BLACKFIN from Italy.

Junk Plastic Rehab: creativity in plastic waste

The 3rd opti BOX AWARD is a popular event for new emerging labels in the industry who apply to exhibit in one of the opti boxes. The start-up companies in this area are always a talking point at the event, and a popular must-see for those visitors seeking a full experience of how frame design is evolving in all its aspects, creative, technical, sustainable and high-tech. This year they include Junk Plastic Rehab (pictured above), Baselli swiss made, and LARS Brillen from Bern, who won the OPTI BOX Award in 2023.

Leinz Eyewear: Berlin’s spectacular 3D printed design label – a winner of the opti BOX award in 2022

opti will host over 400 exhibitors in 44,000 square metres, with representatives from all areas of the optical sector including manufacturers of lenses, contact lenses, machinery and eyewear and accessories.

Opti 2024 takes place on Friday 12th January to Sunday 14th January at the Munich Messe (trade only). To find out more details visit www.opti.de  Eyestylist will have more tips and recommendations to share on opti prior to the event in January.