Eyestylist

| Eyestylist 23rd March 2023

edCFDA Eyewear Designers: preview 2023 Pride Collection

Limited Edition designs revealed by the designers: Blake Kuwahara Eyewear, Christian Roth Eyewear, Krewe Eyewear, l.a.Eyeworks and Selima Optique

The second annual edCFDA Pride Eyewear Initiative was launched in New York this week, with all five designers gathering at The Loft to present their individual frames. The Initiative is an annual charitable venture driven by the eyewear designers to target and highlight specific needs within the broad spectrum of the LGBTQIA+ and gender non-conforming community. This year, a portion of proceeds will benefit the TransLatin@ Coalition whose members are TransLatin@ leaders from different parts of the U.S., who organize and advocate for the issues and needs of TransLatin@ individuals residing in the United States (translatinacoalition.org) Above: a dedicated lens cleaning cloth has been created exclusively for the initiative by the New York-based artist, Pedro Silva (www.pedrosilvaart.com)

edCFDA eyewear designers from left: Stirling Barrett (KREWE Eyewear), Selima Salaum (Selima Optique), Christian Roth (Christian Roth Eyewear), Blake Kuwahara (Blake Kuwahara Eyewear) and Gai Gherardi (l.a. eyeworks).
2023 edCFDA Pride Eyewear Initiative: the frame designs will be available direct from the designers involved in the coming months. From top:the frames by  la Eyeworks, Krewe Eyewear, Christian Roth, Selima Optique, and Blake Kuwahara

The frames have been designed will completely unique shapes and colours, referencing the pride flag with bold combinations and design details.

The designers – Blake Kuwahara (Blake Kuwahara Eyewear), Christian Roth (Christian Roth Eyewear), Gai Gherardi (l.a.Eyeworks), Selima Salaun (Selima Optique), Stirling Barrett (Krewe Eyewear) – are members of the Eyewear Designers of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (edCFDA), a working group of the CFDA that seeks to expand the understanding and presence of designer eyewear as a vital component of contemporary fashion. cfda.com

| Eyestylist 22nd March 2023

The Loft 2023, NYC

Busy stands, energy and vitality, and a party atmosphere at the annual independent eyewear event in NYC

Over 35 independent eyewear brands took part in the most recent edition of The Loft Eyewear Show in New York City this weekend, with a mix of European and US companies as well as a handful of designers from Japan. Above: a packed Friday night party at The Loft (Hudson Mercantile, New York City).

The British brand Kirk and Kirk launched the new Contour collection at The Loft in NYC

Some brands were launching collections for the first time at the event. A brand new combination concept from British creatives, Kirk and Kirk was one of the highlights. The frames fuse Kirk and Kirk’s signature Italian acrylic fronts in bright colours with metal temples – a completely new departure for the brand. Made in Italy, the lightweight temples are produced in Alpaca Silver – an alloy of copper, nickel and zinc, a material often favoured to create jewellery.  www.kirkandkirk.com

ZAZ by VUE DC – a classy acetate shape from the French artisan label

Acetate models displaying interesting thicknesses, contrasting with sharp angles and bevels were a special feature at The Loft, courtesy of VUE DC. The collection on show worked with very dazzling bright colours as well as some sophisticated classic tones of tortoise and translucent red. For the complete collection, visit the brand at www.vuedc.fr

© 2022 Alain Six for ID6o10 – theo’s new pop art glasses

At theo, the new pop art glasses were fresh and super funky, referencing work by Roy Liechtenstin and art-inspired details such as bold contours and printed dots. The frames have been designed by the fashion designer, Tim Van Steenbergen and theo designer, Serge Bracké. Find out more at www.theo.be

Fuller by SALT. Optics: a beautiful palette of colours, informed by nature with focus on timeless elegance

At SALT. Optics, the latest offer of new designs, made in Japan, remained perfectly attuned to the natural world and the land and seascapes of California, with nature colours and easy to wear, flattering classic shapes available across the collections.  www.saltoptics.com

The next edition of The Loft takes place in San Francisco on 23-24th September 2023 at Fort Mason Center. For further information about the event, visit www.lofteyewearshow.com

| Eyestylist 20th March 2023

Preview: a new collaboration from Rigards

Rigards and the acclaimed Barcelona-based German-Persian designer Boris Bidjan Saberi bring their worlds together in a bold collaboration for summer release

The goal was to create an exacting aviator style in titanium, with properties of lightness and a universal fit, all the while offering unfailing attention to materiality, and a sophisticated synthesis of the notion of “imperfect perfection”.

The resulting aviator silhouette has a characterful circular design, where the frame sides are anchored by multidimensional crescent half-moon shapes. The Rigards team explain that special attention was paid to the fit, such that the proportions are optimized for a greater range of face and head shapes. Above: the new bold collaboration frame at Rigards

Rigards x Boris Bidjan Saberi

Particularly eye-catching in this model are the smoothly detachable side-shields which, while physically protecting against light in the peripherals, metaphorically “protect” the wearer. These sides which are compared to medieval armour are distinctive and bold, and also feature artful debossed grooves, traced with two slender cutouts in a nod to Saberi’s symbolic affinity for the number eleven. An incredible blend of details creates an exceptional style with a bespoke weathered patina, while emphasis on artisan expertise is seen in every aspect of the design — the attachment/ease of removal, material elasticity, and stability was assiduously worked on to ensure technical soundness.

Rigards x Boris Bidjan Saberi RG1011BBS is set to release in five elegant colours in June 2023. Every pair comes with two sets of ZEISS lenses (allowing one to switch between Dark Grey and Light Gradient Grey to suit the occasion), and a glasses case made from vegetable-tanned Santa Croce leather. Follow the latest news at www.rigards.com

| Eyestylist 15th March 2023

Blackfin: an enduring eyewear style

Blackfin Pacific develops a precise concept of elegance, based on classic shapes

Classic shapes and technical, minimal, lightweight design come together in a new series of ophthalmic models from Italian label Blackfin. The frames are produced in 3mm block titanium for strength and durability, and undergo a chamfering technique to create a particular refinement and slight softness in the lines and edges. The frames also benefit from minimal welds, used exclusively to mount the nose pad arms, and crafted from a flexible and adaptable material, to offer a good fit for all. Patented Swordfish temple tips can be easily adjusted to further perfect the fit. Above: Blackfin Pacific – model Big Sur, created from 3mm block titanium

Blackfin model Big Sur: new minimal frames offering iconic shapes

The model Big Sur is typical of the line, and offers an elegant panto shape, with pure timeless lines in understated colorations – produced with subtle polished or matt finishes to retain a completely luxurious effect. Find out more at www.blackfin.eu

| Eyestylist 14th March 2023

10 questions: Kayla Heersink

Kayla Heersink a.k.a @opticali_style on Instagram is an optician with an edge. Exploring her affinity with the eyewear universe through both the history and story behind each frame, Kayla’s enthusiasm and passion is palpable in each and every image she posts. Especially enthralled by modern independent designers and forgotten eyewear gems from the past, her eye-drobe includes everything from space-age designs to single-lens oversized sunglasses and everything in between.

1. Do you remember when and why you were originally drawn to eyewear? Yes! I was prescribed my first pair of glasses in kindergarten, and I found the ‘fashion accessory’ aspects of my new medical device enthralling. I chose pink and crystal plastic frames. It was the era of embellishing the peripheral part of the lens with a tiny metallic decal, usually a monogram, so I selected a silver dog which obviously looked SO COOL. From then onwards, I was hooked for life.

2. What is your favourite fashion era for eyewear specifically? I think I would say the 1960s. It was like the Wild West, with designers trying out anything and everything. The introduction of new materials allowed designers to really get creative with colours and shapes that weren’t possible before that time. I’m thinking about the designs of Christian Dior, Pucci, Oliver Goldsmith, Anglo American Optical, Pierre Cardin, Futura by Silhouette, and Philippe Chevallier.

Christian Dior by Tura – a favourite vintage piece from the past

 3. If you were to choose one pair of glasses, vintage or modern, to describe you, which would you pick, and why? I would say the l.a.Eyeworks Bondo frame. It’s wacky, yet versatile – a real classic. It can fit in, stand out, and compel you to ask questions. 1990s conventions dictated that rimlocks should be mounted at the rear of a frame, but l.a.Eyeworks designers Gai Gherardi and Barbara McReynolds flipped that rule on it’s head and used the rimlocks as a design feature, amplifying the visible rimlock theme and even carrying a ‘spare tyre’ rim lock to hold an extra screw. For me, the spirit of this frame is unconventional, playful, and unafraid of authority.

4. Are there any current trends in the eyewear industry you’re enjoying particularly? I’m big into the new frame/clip-on combinations from GIMM eyewear, and Rigards.

GIMM Eyewear x Jean Philippe Joly

5. If you had to steal one celebrity / style icon’s frame collection, whose would you choose? Oooh tough to choose between Elton John and Lady Gaga. Maybe hers… just because they’d fit me better.

6. What would you like to see more of from eyewear designers today? It would be great to see more unique frame textures and finishes. Aside from that, I would love to see more special editions and small-batch collaborations. It’s my favourite thing to see mash-ups between my favourite companies. Examples include Blake Kuwahara + l.a.Eyeworks, GIMM + Jean Philippe Joly, Gogosha + Baars.

7. Which eyewear brands (and particular frames, if possible) are on your wish list?I would love to get my hands on a pair of the first Christian Dior frames made by Tura, with the beautiful enamelling and ornamentation. I’ve also always wanted a pair of vintage Casanova frames. I’m currently coveting the Anne & Valentin MECACOOL from the “Mecanix” collection, but I am also presently obsessed with both the P and Q series by Kuboraum. Otherwise, I can’t wait to see the Rigards x Kamonuj frame/clip model RG0318JM that took more than a year to develop.

Kamonuj x Rigards RG0318JM

8.What trends do you predict for this summer’s eyewear, if any? I can’t predict – I’m not that cool. But my hope is for juicy colours this summer, always and forevermore.

9. Are there any underdog eyewear brands you expect to rise as future industry stars soon? I’m not sure if they’re underdogs, but I see both Lapima and Vada as rising stars.

Kayla wearing Kuboraum mask design – April 2022

10. If you could create a collaboration between any brand and any person / artist / celebrity /style icon, who would you unite, and why? This is a fun topic! Maybe I would pair myself with someone. If not, I’d put together Von Miller with theo and Diane Keaton with Mykita. Both celebrities are known for wearing glasses and would be superb model/collaborators, and both frame companies have made exceptional high-fashion collaboration collections in the past.

Kayla Heersink works at her family’s eyecare business in rural Colorado, USA. Previously she has worked at Gogosha Optique and Rims & Goggles. Top image: Kayla is wearing Denfert by Paname Eyewear. 

An interview feature by Victoria G. L. Brunton exclusively for Eyestylist.com.