2012

L’Osservatorio, Italy

An Italian eyewear adventure

1st March 2012 L’Osservatorio is a must-see for anyone who loves good frames….there are branches in Milan, Finale Ligure, Alassio and Mondovi (pictured above)…of which we have been to the Milan store and warmly recommend it to anyone going to Mido next week. We spoke to Alfio, director at the Milan branch.

“The Milan shop (Corso Porta Ticinese 83), like our other three stores, was designed by the architect Andrea Meirana. The overall design is inspired by Donal Judd, one of the most significant American artists associated with Minimalism. The concept of the shop is not simply to present a window display showing objects, but rather a “lieu” that treasures and protects the unique qualities of the products it presents. The frames are treated as works of art, and that is why they are placed on glass shelves or special fabrics…in a setting that recalls a jewellery display.”

The Milan shop, like our other two stores, stock very exclusive eyewear lines, including Frency & Mercury, Theo, Mykita, Linda Farrow and collaborations, Lunor, Reiz and Retrospecs, among others.

According to owner of the stores, Gabriele Evangelisti: “My philosophy is that the choice of a pair of glasses in our shops does not end with the purchase, the important story that lies behind each object continues even beyond the contact between the frame and the person who chooses it. The frame becomes a part of the personality of the person wearing it, a distinctive mark, an emotion…My dream is to always have more customers that share my passion for eyewear.”

Does the Italian public have an interest in more unusual brands? “We get a very positive response. The mentality in Italy is that many people are conditioned by famous brands. This is mainly because many of the world famous fashion brands are Italian. In the last year the trends have changed and people now are less keen to spend money only for a brand, they look more and more for the quality of a product. Customers today are also more interested in distinguishing themselves from others and looking more original.

Mondovi store interior

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Trend watch: Spring’s statement sunglasses

Creative, colourful, and curious?

1st March 2012 For March, I have my eye on some of the most creative and eccentric sunglass designs, for seeing but also for being seen in! I love the exhuberant and artistic creations that some designers are proposing…we have already covered the incredible Prabal Gurung/Linda Farrow butterfly and Prada’s Baroque styles…but there are so many more exciting shapes and designs on offer…it seems only right to celebrate some of the most stunning ones.

Finest Seven Zero 5 in honey

I’m excited to see the intense colour experience offered by the young British based label Finest Seven. I have picked out their fabulous tangerine and honey colours, but there are more bright tones where these came from including a shocking pink. As always, Finest Seven places emphasis on the quality and exclusivity of the designs, so there are only 100 pieces of each colourway and each pair is numbered and catalogued in the Finest Seven archive. In  other words hurry up if you want one! From £495 at Harvey Nichols in the UK and online at www.finestseven.com CN

Francis Klein, Paris, France

Eyewear Design is a Family Affair

1st March 2012 “We are known for colour, and love experimenting with colour, cat eye shapes, and mostly feminine designs,” says Dixie Klein, daughter of Francis Klein, the Parisian creator with an international clientele. “My father was twenty-two years old when he opened his shop in the 1970’s, and he was disappointed with the frame choices, so he decided to create his own designs. We’ve always been a family business – my mother and my sister Betty are involved too. I remember being about ten years old, and Betty and I were helping to tint lenses in our garage! From the very beginning, our concept has always been that frames are a fashion accessory. We used to have fashion shows at Galeries Lafayette – the Parisian department store.”

Creative colouration and design from Francis Klein

In 2002, the Klein’s moved the boutique location in the smart 7th arrondissement, to an even more historical part of Paris – the heart of St. Germain de Pres, just steps away from Aux Café Deux Magots, the favourite haunt of literary luminaries Simone de Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Satre. On display in the boutique is a vast selection of their styles – past and present. Francis Klein glasses always provide an element of surprise – it could be an unexpected colour combination, an innovative touch in the frame shape, a particularly distinctive accent. They perform magic with acetate – they make all their own acetate, and the frames are handmade in France – truly a 100% French product. “We are inspired by everything, says Dixie, “certainly our travels, but particularly the 1970’s; we are loyal to our image. We are also passionate about everything we do, and not only the family, but our staff is involved in submitting design ideas – we have a good team.” www.francisklein.com JG

Leap For Eyewear Joy……

In the next several days, you’ll find the continuation of our series Men and Their Glasses; click on Boutiques for a unique shop, and City Guides for a stunning exhibition. Click and stay with Eyestylist -keeping you well informed.

For February, Eyestylist focuses on men’s glasses featuring exclusive handmade labels, respected for style and expression, from independent creators. Also in this edition –  this unique leap-year month – designers share their take on trends for men, and predictions for men’s frame collections. In Reviews, you’ll discover exciting men’s designer frames, and in Boutiques, where to buy them. Our Designer of the Month is a talented creator from Sweden.. JG

Men and Their Glasses

Tom Davies – TD Tom Davies, London, England

29th February 2012 “When designing men’s eyewear, there are obvious differences in size. Women are buying more masculine styles, but through my couture service, they are applying some basics to make them fit better. When I design for men, I think about the stability of the frame. I find that (no surprises) men treat their frames badly and certain constructions are just not suitable for men. In terms of shape, men go for flatter tops and more geometric lines. Anything that squares up the jaw and make us look more rugged is great. I would say that quality is now important to men, more than before. Overall, we are still miles behind women when it comes to brands and fashion, but it gets closer each year.

Masterful Elegance by Tom Davies

Interest in vintage depends on the man and the country. Overall, I’d say that the preference for vintage is stronger in women, but that seems mainly because men are still buying metal frames – vintage is more often about engineered design. In my collection, titanium styles are building momentum. My favourite men’s wear designer is Paul Smith – for his details and quality.” www.tdtomdavies.com JG