We love sunglasses at Eyestylist, and this month we’re celebrating beautiful, glamorous and striking designs from international creators – click on REVIEWS. Travel with us to Venice and discover a chic BOUTIQUE, and London to meet the Designer of the Month; then to New York City for a memorable fashion exhibition. Click and stay with Eyestylist for the latest in stylish, independent label eyewear and accessories.
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30th May 2014 A passion for Africa and Luca Gnecchi Ruscone’s Roman heritage combine with dramatic effect in his seductive, glamorous sunglass designs. Elegant materials handcrafted in Italy bring further allure and beauty to the frames. (Pictured above: Designer Luca Gnecchi Ruscone.)
L.G.R. model Maria wears Alexandria CM in matt Havana acetate – a gracious, voluminous shape with sweeping temple interest. The green tempered mineral glass lenses complete the stylish harmony. www.lgr-sunglasses.com JG
Photos by Luca Santocono exclusively for Eyestylist. All rights reserved.
27th May 2014 Coppe+Sid in England and Carter Bond in Australia have launched striking sunglasses with flair and style. St. Bart’s by Sid Firoozkoohi and Coppe Gualtiero put the wearer in the right mood for summer activities – or just elegantly chilling out in the sunshine. Silky acetate is sculpted into a sophisticated shape in chic grey. All Coppe+Sid frames are handmade in Italy to exacting standards, with beautiful crafting and details. www.eyedesignclub.com
Daimon Downey is a multi-faceted, multi-talented Australian musician and painter. In his collaboration for a Limited Edition with Carter Bond, Downey puts his artistic energies into bold, strong acetate sunglass shapes, accented with a mix of fluros, primaries and pastels. www.carterbond.comJG
23rd May 2014 As well as the resurgence of sun-clips (Eyestylist Exclusives, May 2014) look out for a trend where acetate layering creates the illusion of a frame with a clip. Summer releases by Italian artisan label Res/Rei include the Giulio and Luciana, frames that play with this concept, with layers of classic acetate in contrasting colours.
Using Mazzucchelli acetate materials with a taste for classic vintage – find crystal, tortoise, silky black, honey and havana, all on-trend, and unique in the combinations selected – each of these handmade styles – produced in the Italian mountains, balances grace and style with functionality and precision.www.resrei.comCN
19th May 2014This season’s subtle blocked pastel shades are a highlight of the accessory collections and mesh beautifully with the clothes we’d all like to be wearing. Alongside the much featured teal and turquoise, find an array of soft nudes and pale pinks. Perfect this look with pretty, pale sunglasses, and their 50s, 60s or 70s retro flourishes – whatever shape suits you best. Face à Face Idols 2, with its gentle 50s cat eye design, combines see-through crystal acetate with a smooth “icing-like topping”, defining the brow, in creamy latte. www.faceaface-paris.com
Greek designer Bela Louloudaki launched her Jewellery for the Curious C0llection during Milan Design Week and showcased glorious treats of colour with specialised geometric patterns – created using ceramic tubes, and coated with on-trend pastel-toned layers or gold-dipped elements. Each piece is made by hand, and each one is slightly different and therefore unique. www.belalouloudaki.com
You could also choose a style classic for your sunglass statement this summer – such as this aviator, transformed with an unexpected wash of soft colour. Oliver Goldsmith model Glyn is a sunglass design dating back to 1971. Named after the gentleman in the OG workshop who had worked for OG for over 30 years, and retired at 75, Glyn actually designed this frame for himself before he left the studio for a cruise around the world with his wife! www.olivergoldsmith.com CN
Thirty Years of Eyewear Excitement from Christian Roth
16th May 2014 When Christian Roth and Eric Domège emerged on the eyewear scene three decades ago, eyewear and the world were very different. Eyewear was yet to be recognised as a desirous fashion accessory. The brand’s superb designs expressed the unique fusion of style, innovation, sexy silhouettes, modern design, and meticulous handcrafting in Italy. They still do, along with vibrant energy and elegance. Domège says, “we create a language through our designs that stand the test of time.” Christian Roth was the first label to be inducted into the prestigious Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), founded by New York style doyenne Eleanor Lambert, thus legitimizing eyewear as a fully fledged fashion accessory.
Thirty years on, Roth and Domège have the same enthusiasm for creating gorgeous glasses as they did at the beginning. No doubt their early experiences with eyewear set the foundation for their life’s passion. “Our biggest influence for designing frames was our stylish mothers, wearing chic sunglasses when picking us up at school on a sunny day in the late 60’s and early 70’s. And this brings us to an influential period (for us) which ‘bridged’ to the modern lifestyle and popular culture of the 21st century,” the design duo observed from their studio in Miami Beach, Florida.
“The biggest changes are probably new technologies – in its different forms – which challenges our creativity, and the enthusiastic perception of eyewear itself by consumers and retailers around the world. It became a must-have, object of desire, a true fashion accessory. As we celebrate our 30th anniversary, there are so many wonderful people in the eyewear, fashion, media and entertainment business who have helped us over the last three decades. With them this incredible ride would never have been possible. Allow us this opportunity to say Thank You”! Eyestylist wishes you champagne celebrations Christian and Eric! www.christian-roth.comJG
13th May 2014 It happens while waiting at the checkout counter, when passing someone in the street, catching a glance in the rear-view mirror. There are faces that stand out and leave you wondering. People with stories. People you’d like to have the opportunity to look at more closely. ‘I Wonder Who You Are’ is a stunning new campaign by Götti Switzerland, photographed by Christian Grund, who is recognised for his sophisticated lighting and his careful, highly esthetic productions. Black and white photos were chosen as a homage to classic portrait photography. Above – Kitty in luminous acetate.
The new campaign illustrates how eyewear can have a multifaceted effect on the face of the wearer. By choosing a specific design, we make a statement about our personality – we choose an effect. Who am I? Who would I like to be? How would I like to be perceived by others? Eyeglasses are an aspect of our individual persona – and with Sven Götti’s innovative designs, Götti Switzerland sets the stage for memorable, personal eyewear interpretations. www.gotti.chwww.christiangrund.chJG
9th May 2014 A favourite designer of the Duchess of Cambridge, New Zealand-born Emilia Wickstead has become one of the class acts of London Fashion Week. Her Autumn/Winter 2014 runway collection, praised for its elegance, highlighted a new touch of edgy chic with its leather and snakeskin – and bold flashes of colour, a powerful pink and elegant shades of tangerine. And there were sunglasses too – a new catwalk collaboration with independent brand Finest Seven, designed by Jesse Stevens – the talented luxury eyewear designer who also hails from New Zealand; perfectly in keeping with the overall tone of effortless glamour, these artisan sunglasses are designed in the UK and made in the Italian mountains by hand for exceptional quality and finish. Priced from £550.00, Finest Seven produces each heirloom design as a bespoke order.
Images courtesy of Emilia Wickstead and Finest Seven Ltd. For more information, and to order sunglasses directly from Finest Seven, visit www.finestseven.com
6th May 2014 Romance, beauty, music and art are among the influences Anna-Karin Karlsson expresses in her strong, and innovative eyewear designs. “I have a place in my head that I can go to, and see visions and sights, and I don’t need inspiration per se,” says the Swedish designer, “as I can go there, and imagine all sorts of things until it becomes something spectacular or meaningful. I call it ‘a flight upstairs’.”
Her enchanting “flight” includes striking sunglasses in black acetate adorned with either a lion or lioness – symbols of strength, courage and authority – plus exuding super style.
Love and beauty are highlighted in a stunning new colour combination of a favourite AKK design – Rose/Rogue. Smooth acetate in a leopard print – the majestic animal representing wisdom and mystery – is trimmed with carved roses. Anna-Karin Karlsson’s “flight upstairs” transports the wearer of her sunglass designs to magical kingdoms! www.annakarinkarlsson.com JG
Photo of Anna-Karin Karlsson by Luca Santocono exclusively for Eyestylist. All rights reserved.
Artisanal excellence illuminates the supremely elegant Adrina by Shane Baum. Named after a remote Greek beach, the wafer-thin aviator design features a gold plated titanium crossbar, and Japanese Windsor rim detail. Superb detailing includes intricate multi-dimensional laser etching applied to the titanium, and Japanese cotton-based acetate temples. Adrina Deep Blue Sea is plated in 12k or 18k gold, and the lenses are treated with trade marked Diamond Cast anti-scratch coating. Pure Luxury! www.leisure-society.comJG
Parisian eyewear designer Jérémy Tarian conducts Master Classes for selected students at HEAD-Genève (Geneva University of Art and Design/Switzerland). The Workshop’s theme requires students to use acetate as if it were a piece of jewellery to create a frame. Under Jérémy’s wise guidance, the glamorous winning concept was awarded to Camille Dols with Precious, an acetate frame embellished with metal cut-outs that evoke the shape of cut gemstones. There is a Limited Edition of only 75 pieces per colour worldwide. This is Tarian’s first collaboration with HEAD-Genève for Tarian +. www.jeremytarian.comJG
History and tradition blend creatively in sunglasses by Ti Kwa for Rigards. Inspired by the 1950’s and Japanese salarymen, RG0002 features the signature Sanjuro finish on the upper browline. Sanjuro is a textured surface treatment that is entirely hand-finished, and is a nod to Tsubaki Sanjuro, the honorable samurai-recluse from the Akira Kurosawa masterpiece. Each frame is a one-off, with hours upon hours spent hand polishing the frames to a distinctive matte finish that exudes richness and personality. www.rigards.comJG
Handmade and produced in London by Algha Works, Berwick from Savile Row has a classic shape that incorporates modern elements; a distinctive, gracefully sculpted brow treatment and acetate tips. The sunglasses are available in either rhodium or rolled gold – the latter a speciality at Savile Row. Pure, uncluttered and elegant. www.algha.comJG
Super light and as colorful as ever, the Titanium Collection by Turkish label RVS by V. now features seven statement frames, in three different colourways – as sunglasses or glasses. The designs have a rubber-effect matte finish typical of the brand’s attention to detail and much featured in its acetate line. The ‘Amethyst’, in Black/Gold brings together a trendy split colour front – a look for the season – and small fluo details at the temple tips for a modern, edgy look. Now available worldwide and soon online at rvsbyv.com. CN
Manhattan based fashion designer Zac Posen has an international following of women – including Kate Winslet and Glenn Close – who adore his feminine aesthetics and sensual cuts in rich, luxurious fabrics. Posen has recently launched a collection of elegant eyewear that captures the essence of his clothing, with dramatic shapes and glamour. Fiona in glossy black acetate is an exaggerated cat eye with embellished temples and end tips. Definitely sunglasses with magnetism and charisma! www.kenmarkoptical.comwww.zacposen.comJG
1st May 2014 Beautiful design, glamour and imagination spotlight sunglasses this season. Colour is bold and glossy, and Tim Van Steenbergen for theo (above) embraces vivid tones and strong styling with Nina, in acetate and stainless steel. The exuberant colours found in the Red Sea inspired the frames that are certain to pump up your wardrobe and brighten the street scene. www.theo.be
Mirrored lenses are high on the priority style list this season, and LGR presents a dramatic version – Reunion – in sleek matt black acetate with petroleum mirrored lenses. The unique lenses are called “zero base” as they are completely flat. The perfectly round voluminous shape is cutting edge, chic and modern, and handmade in Italy. Photographed in Italy on Sabaudia beach. www.lgr-sunglasses.com
Ic! berlin has collaborated with New York photographer Lyle Owerko to celebrate the absurdly gigantic, yet portable icon of the 1970’s and 80’s – the boombox! Owerko has designed sunglasses for ic! berlin that scream rebellion and demand attention – just as their namesake did on the streets of New York many years ago. Boombox Noize (above) is sun gold sheet metal with clear black nylon lenses, produced in the heart of Berlin. www.ic-berlin.deJG
1st May 2014 The glamorous, elegant, sculptural designs by Charles James are the subject of a beautiful exhibition held in the newly renovated Tisch Gallery in the Anna Wintour Costume Center, at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City. Complex cuts, extravagant draping, and luxurious materials were transposed into fabulous designs – magic that James performed with his imagination and scissors. James was born in Britain, and worked in Paris before arriving in New York in 1940, where he established permanent residence. His early clients included Diana Vreeland, iconic fashion editor, and society beauties Babe Paley and Millicent Rogers. In 1954, James married Nancy Lee Gregory, who frequently modeled his designs.
Charles James was the ultimate perfectionist, regarding each design as a work of art. Women responded to his dramatic seaming that enhanced the female form. James loved luxury, and his fabric choices were always sumptuous – silk velvets and chiffon, cotton organdy, creamy crepe, and fine wools. Charles James: Beyond Fashion is a fitting tribute to a designer who paved the way for many of America’s future couturiers. The exhibition runs from 8 May through 10 August 2014. www.metmusuem.orgJG
Photos: Top: Charles James Ball Gowns 1948 Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photograph by Cecil Beaton, Beaton/Vogue/Condé Nast Archive. Copyright Condé Nast
Babe Paley: Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photograph by John Rawlings, Rawlings/Vogue/Condé Nast Archive. Copyright Condé Nast
Nancy James: Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photograph by Cecil Beaton, The Cecil Beaton Studio Archive at Sotheby’s.
Boutique with Italian Charm and Style in Mestre Venice
1st May 2014 A special thank you to Gualtiero Coppe of Coppe+Sid for introducing Eyestylist to his lovely Venetian boutique. Prophilo Company began manufacturing optical frames and sunglasses in 1983, and the boutique opened a year ago – a family enterprise with Mario Di Bello and his wife Rossana, and their son Matteo. They chose Mestre as the location because Mario was born in Venice, and the family now lives on “the mainland”, just a few minutes from the centre of Venice. “What we wanted,” says Mario, “is that the shop had a new image and that people feel like they are at home when entering the boutique.”
The shop interior is cosy, and oozes charm, warmth and character. “The interior renovation was created by architect Marcadella Alessandra, but overall we worked together, including the furniture research,” explains Mario, “and the wall that appears to be a fresco (above) is a particular wallpaper from Wall & Deco Co., but it really does look like an old fresco.” Vintage carpets, wood accessories and a working fireplace add to the delightful ambience.
“We don’t have many tourists in our shop,” says Mario,”as most of our customers are local people who look for new brands, fashion and something trendy. Together with some products by Prophilo, we have Coppe & Sid, Moscot, Barton Perreira, Conservatoire de Lunettes, Jacques Durand, Claire Goldsmith, Derapage, Etnia Barcelona, Paul Frank, Volte Face, Italia Independent and Spektre. In our shop we look for exclusive brands which give us emotion. Each label has its own space; we do not mix brands together. The trend this season is round shapes in optical designs, mirrored sunglasses, and two-tone gradient lenses. When we present a new eyewear collection, we usually have an event inside and outside the shop with music and cocktails. It’s really beautiful to take time to be together for a break.” www.prophilo.comJG
1st May 2014 Once upon a time, children who needed to wear glasses really didn’t want to. Styles and colours were limited, and frames just weren’t fun. Then, like a magic wand in a children’s fairy tale, there appeared a delightful collection of frames for youngsters with a catchy name – Zoobug – that appealed to little hearts and fashion desires. Eyestylist meets Dr. Julie Le, children’s eye surgeon – above with her daughter Prosper – who shares her story about the creation of Zoobug.
Was there a defining moment when you realised that there was a need for high quality protective eyewear for youngsters? “I saw a lot of UV related eye problems during my training as an ophthalmologist in the UK, but it only hit home when I tried to buy sunglasses for my one-year-old niece. There was little choice and the quality was very poor.
What are your design influences? “I design instinctively and draw inspiration from London life as we’ve got this amazing hub of creativity and style at our doorstep. I love experimenting with colours and strong shapes. But what looks good on paper may not always work on a child’s face; that’s why all my new ideas are prototyped and tested on actual children first. I am lucky I have many willing volunteers from family and friends. My quest for the perfect pair of sunglasses or ophthalmic frames lends itself to my progressive design method, where I am constantly tweaking and refining. It may take several seasons and versions to come up with a shape and fit that I am truly happy with. This is because children’s faces are so varied and pose the biggest challenge. I always design with a particular age range in mind, but even then, there are huge variations in shape and size. Now that children’s tastes are more sophisticated, it becomes harder as you need to understand what they are willing to wear at what age.”
Do you feel that parents are more aware nowadays about eye protection for children? “Yes definitely which is a great thing. We struggled in the early years but now there is much more public awareness for the need to protect children’s eyes and to spend a little more for quality.” What are the most fun aspects of creating eyewear for children – and the most challenging? “I am a big child at heart so if I get excited by a shape, design or colour , then I know kids will too. A good fitting frame that makes a child feel great and confident about themselves is the most rewarding aspect of my job. I’ve often been asked the question of why I left my surgical career to design eyewear for children. Well, I naively wanted to make a difference. In the UK, children had a raw deal when it came to the dreaded NHS frames, and it was unusual to think that children had any desire to look cool or stylish in their glasses. The issue of course, was the lack of public awareness to protect children’s eyes in the sun. I thought it would take 3-4 years to instigate change and return to my day job. Eight years on, and I’ve only just scratched the surface. In China, where we have just entered the market, parents don’t even believe in their children wearing glasses, fearing that it will make their vision worse and they will become dependent.” www.zoobug.comJG