Stimulating, creative fresh ideas permeate the latest designs from theo. The Belgium brand orchestrates eyewear with innovation in silhouette and construction, plus unique colour combinations in a range of materials. Inspiration abounds in theo collections, and Kamasutra set creative genes in action with frame “positions” based on the ancient sex manual. Lotus Blossom and Sideways Samba (above) – unite in two pieces that then click the frame together. No screws or other fixtures…oh! so theo!
Potatoes acetate are fun frames named after a much-loved food – the potato. Six different shapes (Patatas shown above) range from bold and brash to elegant and feminine, very stylish and contemporary. Super theo colour combinations too – really a delicious feast for the eyes!
The theo mille quarante collection introduces four new models in eight different colour combinations. The timeless designs and streamlined contours are further enhanced with unexpected textures, as expressed in mille+47 (above) For more information on theo’s exciting new releases, visit www.theo.beJG
A beautiful new release by “New York designer, artist, costumier and professional bedazzler” Kerin Rose Gold, who we have followed through every season since we first launched Eyestylist.com.
a-morir’s A/W 2017 collection reexplores decorative arts with exclusive jewellery settings, dreamy floral flourishes, sparkling coloured Swarovski gems and intricate gold filigree – interpreted with love and the expertise of a young female designer who continues to produce her original, audacious designs with dedication to handcrafting and bespoke finishings inspired by vintage frames from the early 20th century.
Model Bonnie is one of several examples, striking for the asymmetrical flourish of gold detail with pearl settings that make a statement focal point on the classic tortoise front. Added to this, three little inset pearls at each side take the luxury story one step further. See more decorative eyewear from Kerin Rose Gold at www.a-morir.comCN
The Norwegian independent brand Karmoie derives its name from the Sanskrit word karma meaning “action” or “deed” and the French word joie for “joy”. With this stimulating philosophy, Kirsten and Lars created the company in 2013 with their concept of excellence, integrity and quality. Karmoie was awarded The Butterfly Mark by Positive Luxury, for the brand’s commitment to protect the planet’s resources. They share their perspective with Eyestylist.
Please tell us about how Karmoie was created. “We knew that we wanted to create a business that reflects our values and our personalities. Social commitment and creating a product that feels as good as it looks was at the core. The idea of doing that within the industry came to us as we were driving around in the South of France. It was one of those moments where everything just felt right. We knew we had a lot of research to do and an industry we knew nothing about to figure out, but we just had to go for it.”
Your designs are streamlined and pure – how do you develop your concepts? “We don’t really launch extensive new collections every season; rather we add on a couple of styles so our collection is always made up of both models from the first years and a few new releases. Whenever we develop a new model we make sure that it fits in with the rest of our frames, and that the colour palette remains cohesive.”
What inspires you – nature, architecture, colours – when you are creating frames? “We are inspired by everything that surrounds us. Our friends and family, their style and requests give us ideas. While fashion is always inspiring, the pace of fast fashion is so stressful, so we seek more towards architecture and interior design, as that feels more built to last. When it comes to colours, we believe that nature is flattering on everyone, so our colour palette and patterns are based on soft, natural shades.”
How did your partnership with Eyejusters come about? “We had seen a segment on The Colbert Report about social innovation that featured adjustable glasses. Since we are not opticians or optometrists ourselves, the way Eyejusters work, allowing anyone to participate in distributing glasses, really resonated with us. With more than 700 million people worldwide without access to refractive care, it is great to be able to recruit anyone who wants to participate in helping. It also makes it possible to reach out to very remote areas that are hard to access with trained personnel and advanced equipment.”
Karmoie is now entering its fifth year – what is the most rewarding aspect of your work? “We love hearing feedback from our customers and from our donation projects. Seeing people wear and enjoy our eyewear validates all the effort we put into creating them. Hearing from our donation partners and following the important work that they do in the field gives us hope and motivation.”
Any additional insights you would like to enumerate about Karmoie? “We believe that every positive action has a positive impact. We created a brand that is mindful of the importance in all the big and small choices we make on our way to the final product. For this we have been awarded the Positive Luxury Butterfly Mark. Awareness is spreading and we are proud to be part of it.” www.karmoie.comJG
Fashion designer Arthur Arbesser has created stunning sunglasses for Silhouette that stylishly compliment his relaxed, easy-going clothing collection. Crafted in Silhouette’s unique mix of SPX and high-tech titanium, the frames are extremely lightweight and minimalist. The sunglasses also feature lens-in-lens technology that enables the frames to be worn as both optical and sunglasses. Arbesser has a broad perspective on fashion – he was born and raised in Vienna; studied at Central Saint Martins College for Art and Design in London; and is now based in Milan, where he is acclaimed as one of fashion’s most up and coming young designers. www.silhouette. com www.arthurarbesser.comJG
Mondelliani glasses, selected independent brands (Hoet and Theo) and bijoux accessories. The curated collections by the Mondello family have a new design home in Via dei Prefetti, an historic street with an abundance of chic stores located in the Campo Marzio neighbourhood.
The minimal interior, balancing bright colour and elegant white displays was designed by Claudia Campone of Studio THiRTYONE in Rome. An area for eye tesing has also been included as part of the project – allowing the team to offer state-of-the-art eycare as well as beautiful accessories.
Following the opening in December 2016, Rosaria Mondello commented: “Eyewear is the accessory that speaks about who we are, more than any other. If you wear black and choose a red frame, for me, you are all about “red”. If you wear a “statement” frame, such as a heavy rimmed black design, you need to be able to carry it off, with grit and a strong character, otherwise you will look like a member of the Beagle Boys. What gives us great satisfaction is finding the right frame for each person: this requires sensitivity, taste and attention to detail”.
Via dei Prefetti 11, Rome. Other stores are located in via del Bergamaschi and via dell’Oca, Rome. www.mondelliani.itCN
May launches with a merry start as the Die Brillenmesse independent eyewear show takes place in Cologne. The Rhine City event is held in the spacious surroundings of Dock One, and features independent eyewear designer flair. Nathanaël Wenger Co-director of the show (above with co-director Steffen Keil) gives an exclusive interview to Eyestylist about the forthcoming show.
Could you please share with us the development of Die Brillenmesse Köln? “We are on track with Cologne with around 30 exhibitors so far, and quite a few more in the pipeline. With the business uncertainty, some smaller companies are reducing their marketing costs this year. Cologne is still new and we think and believe that Cologne is a perfect place for our show.”
Who are some of the exhibitors in Köln this year? “There is interesting brand variety that includes Adrian Marwitz; Andy Wolf; Götti Switzerland; Anne et Valentin; Baars Eyewear; Blackfin; Coblens; Götti Switzerland; Lunor; Orgreen Optics; Joel Lesca Optique; Kerl; Miamai; Masunaga, Markus T.; Martin & Martin; Robert la Roche and TD Tom Davis Ltd. to mention just a few.”
Die Brillenmesse is a great supporter of independent labels. Nowadays, as eyewear is evolving rapidly for both the industry and the consumer, what challenges do independent creators face? “First there is a great uncertainty in the market due to the global crisis (Trump, Turkey, Brexit etc.), the future of online, clients changing behaviour (higher demands, price sensitiveness, information level…) and big pressures on Retail in general. So it is not easy to find a clear direction in these turbulences. We try to give some direction by supporting independent labels, design and innovation, but also Newcomers. Nowadays, it is even more important to find new ways of doing business and being different from the mass-market. This is our mission, and we can see that it works with many independent opticians in Switzerland. I think it is important that opticians focus on their strengths – which is personal contact, artisanship, good advice, innovation and high-end quality.”
Please tell us about the Think Tank sessions that are part of the Die Brillenmesse Programme.“The response to the Think Tank sessions was positive and we will feature similar subjects as in Stuttgart. This will include how to reach new clients, digital change, and technical innovations. Again, the aim is to give the independent opticians some input and inspiration on how they can keep direction in a rough sea. We are also delighted that two Vintage collectors – Christian Metzler and Alexander Dosiehn will show their Vintage Collections in Köln with amazing beauties!”
Mark you calendars now! Saturday and Sunday 6th and 7th May at Dock One in Cologne for Die Brillenmesse Köln 2017. Further info at www.diebrillenmesse.deJG
Prescription frame wearers can anticipate stylish selections with the new optical collections. Whether you are an avid fan of the cat-eye shape; round in all sizes; rectangular; square or aviator; choices abound in traditional and unconventional materials, plus fabulous colours and alluring neutrals. Anna-Karin Karlsson embraces optical designs with romantic charisma. Le Papillon (above) is gracefully feminine: 24caret gold plated, with elegant butterfly accents. Explore more of the Swedish creator’s luxurious designs at www.annakarinkarlsson.com
The latest collection from SALT. Optics includes timeless designs in beautiful nature-inspired colourations. Slim styling in Lance features a new colour for the California brand – Dried Herb. Discover more of the SALT. eyewear universe at www.saltoptics.com
Fleye Copenhagen has introduced their stunning new Signature Collection – beautifully crafted silhouettes with form and texture. The frames mix cool metals with warm natural materials – as in Dixon – and the results are designs with unique character and style. www.fleye.dk
Green is a predominant tone in collections – with colour sensitivity that is a pleasure for the complexion. Weber in Kiwi Shimmer on Gunmetal Satin – acetate overlay on stainless steel – is a chic frame by l.a.Eyeworks. Superbly crafted in Italy, the shape is flattering for both men and women. www.laeyeworks.com
Red in a variety of jubilant, joyous tones is trend-setting this season. Ron by Chris Mascré and Yolande de Clercq at Vue dc in lustrous acetate combines retro panache with modern, artisan techniques. www.vuedc.fr JG
World War II history has a role in the latest L.G.R frames – The Mimetic Collection – by Luca Gnecchi Ruscone. Luca discovered material in his grandfather’s old warehouse that was used in uniforms worn by Italian soldiers during the war. Inspired by the original fabric, Luca then found an artisan workshop in Italy that could reproduce the material in 100% cotton, using a stone wash technique for a distinctive effect. The Mimetic Collection features the material used as flaps (above) or wrapped around the frames on the acetate and metal version. Explore the L.G.R eyewear universe at www.lgrworld.comJG
Eyewear experiences continue to expand beyond the everyday. Innovative brands take new risks with clever techniques to bring new technological scope to new collections. 3D printed frames are a fast expanding eyewear choice, increasing the opportunity in personalisation as well as comfort and practicality. The Danish label MONOQOOL shows fast-paced innovation in this arena, with the launch of super thin frame structures in its new Slider Series. The frames, which weigh just 4 grams, have an ultra thin front design combined with cool horizontal temples and a clever hinge system. www.monoqool.com
Siens Eye Code from Milan presented their first Creatures collection in 2016 with a concept that boasts three patents for hinge, lens assembly and packaging “integrated to the glasses”. The idea is to unite art and technology, vision and science, to blend each element in one high-tech product produced using traditional expertise in the Veneto. The brand has exciting new entries coming for Autumn 2017 that we have been able to preview ahead of the Autumn fairs. More details at www.sienseyecode.com
Italian lifestyle brand Bob Sdrunk is creating a buzz with its 100% made in Italy designs from a team of expert opticians – attentive to design, modern quality and the all important fit. The round model Uranus is typical of the unconventional shapes in the collection. The very narrow metal construction of the style (pictured in gold) with cross bar balanced over the classic round shape brings a chic contemporary look that is immediately appealing. www.bobsdrunk.comCN
Lafont Paris has sadly announced the recent passing of Philippe Lafont, president of Lafont Paris, and a passionate advocate of eyewear. Lafont was also president of SILMO, and contributed his outstanding talents and professional expertise to GIFO.
In additional to Lafont’s numerous roles in the optical community, he was enthusiastic about opera; always polite, kind and courteous. Thomas and Matthieu Lafont will continue to support their father’s dedication to the family legacy as a pioneer and innovator of luxury eyewear made in France, upholding the company’s core values of integrity, craftsmanship and elegance.
Eyestylist extends our deepest sympathy and condolences to Thomas, Matthieu, family, friends and the Lafont team. JG
Energetic colour and new chic designs with consistent attention to the small details: the mood at Copenhagen Specs this weekend was upbeat and friendly as designers from Scandinavia and further afield brought new ideas for 2017. The fair showed its commitment to independent labels, and attracted more than 80 companies and a wide range of frame styles from Scandinavian innovators through to small start-ups from Italy (Viveur), Poland (Love Belford), Spain (Paper & Paper) and France (Plein Les Mirettes /PLM).
The Italian titanium specialists Blackfin showed their new collection featured in the 2017 campaign: Sky’s The Limit. The brand currently offers an eclectic mix of titanium styles including trend-focused thicker rims such as model Montego Bay (above). Further details: www.blackfin.eu
Plein Les Mirettes showed their colourful acetate range for women for the first time in Denmark. The uniquely crafted glamorous shapes have a bright energetic elegance and are made in Normandy in a prestigious traditional eyewear factory. Model Diva brings the camouflage trend into eyewear in a playful and elegant interpretation for the face. www.plein-les-mirettes.fr.
Italian start-up Viveur Sunglasses by Carlo Opice showed a metal collection produced in the Veneto. The frames revisit vintage styling but bring a modern “street style” to the look, creating a line that is youthful and wearable. Very narrow proportions and the variety of nice classic lens colours in the metal sunglasses line are on trend for the SS17 season. More details at www.viveursunglasses.com
Alongside bright primary colours, neutral eyewear tones are evolving in new ways. Model Nia by Salt. Optics has a thin profiled shape, the narrowest of temples and custom detailing. Nia comes in a super Oyster Grey / Black Sand combination with “Lovers Soul” gradient lenses. More details on the new entries presented by Salt. Optics at www.saltoptics.com
Lightness, technical know-how and an innovative take on materials are instantly noticeable in the Fleye collection, presented to us by co-founder Hanne Andersen at the show. Once again, the trend for extremely narrow proportions is beautifully played out in special ways with the addition of touches of colour and finely textured finishes in high-tech carbon fibre. www.fleye.dk
Copenhagen Specs returns to the same venue in 2018 from 3-4th March: for more details about the fair visitwww.copenhagenspecs.dkCN
Family, friends and devoted fans of gorgeous L.G.R. eyewear celebrated the opening of the charming boutique in Milan (top image – a jubilant Luca Gnecchi Ruscone). The pop-up store displays the wonderful variety of L.G.R designs, along with his latest collections – the elegant Capri; history inspired Mimetic frames; and the supremely luxurious L.G.R Gold Edition. Luca Gnecchi Ruscone’s dedication to artisan eyewear is evident in the exceptional craftsmanship and precise detailing in each frame.
Located on Milan’s trendy Corso Garibaldi, the cosy boutique features both optical and sunglass designs created by the Rome-based designer. The boutique is open through 25th April. www.lgrworld.comJG
Roadster is a striking design from the JF Rey 1985 Collection that unites past, present and future with its stylish look. The frame is a reedit from a women’s design that Jean-François created in the 1980’s. Faithfully preserving the original concept, Roadster is re-crafted for the 21st century with high tech elements and materials. The vintage shape is highlighted with flat blue mirror lenses. Sophisticated and unique! www.jfrey.frJG
It can snow in Denmark in March but a chilly climate never changes the warm Danish welcome! The friendly, fast-growing Scandinavian eyewear fair Copenhagen Specs approaches this weekend and promises eclectic frame style from international brands setting an energetic outlook for Spring/Summer.
Exhibitors include Copenhagen’s very own Ørgreen Optics with their new collection dazzling in a SS17 campaign (above) about colour confidence…bolds, neons, and rich and vibrant tonal contrasts. www.orgreenoptics.com
Ørgreen’s British partner Claire Goldsmith will have her team present to show both the eponymous collection of sun and optical frames as well as the renowned Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses collection. There are a few extra special colour surprises including a limited edition of the classy Manhattan in soft summery gelato tones. www.clairegoldsmith.com
The ‘Explorer’ model by Silhouette Eyewear will be among the new finds at the Austrian company’s stand during the fair. This minimal, chic design perfectly reflects the flair of the 1950s, with unusual colour gradients such as orange with blue and glossy purple. The lens-in-lens technology creates the perception of a rim while offering the advantage of being very light and comfortable. More information at www.silhouetteeyewear.com
Monoqool’s 3D printed collection, produced in Denmark, will also be a highlight at the fair. The collection is on point with very fine profiles that are lightweight and aesthetically striking – look for the new Slider Series – described as “the thinnest 3D printed glasses in the world.”
Copenhagen Specs takes place from 4th-5th March 2017 at Lokomotivvaerkstedet. More details and a full list of exhibitors is available atwww.copenhagenspecs.dkCN