SILMO, Paris preview : new, innovative design

With the Paris fair taking place at the end of this month, independent brands are ready and waiting to present new collections with a fresh orientation for 2024. Expect a showcase of truly unique products, sustainable collections, 3D printed frames as well as traditional, handmade and iconic eyewear design.

Rich craftsmanship, innovation, and a real exploration of frame materials: the Silmo Paris fair is known as a launch pad for new creative talent, as well as offering a mind-blowing showcase of established fine eyewear brands and small independent labels that have successfully found their niche on the eyewear scene. This year’s event is fast approaching, and promises more of the same quality, ingenuity, and imagination from creatives in the sector from all around the world – and the seasonal unveiling of new colour palettes, shapes and eyewear directions that will be significant in the months to come and into 2024.

Already, in line with some of the most eye-catching catwalk trends, the variety in the colour stories look very promising, with plenty more bright and joyful colour ideas heading our way alongside a wearable timeless natural toned palette that customers have grown to love (natural greens, browns and “earthy” hues, look for burnt red, sienna and some refined organic palettes and rich golden tones).

The brands which hold a reputation for innovating and exploring materials with particular originality will bring new fresh proposals to Silmo, in line with the sustainable direction across the fashion industry as a whole and directions in the design world. Above: VAVA will launch a new supremely light aluminium series at Silmo. Made in Italy, the rims have been reduced dramatically as has the size of the hinge. The oversized round eye shape  – completely flat on top – creates a unique appearance –  

Ørgreen Optics: the new Plus One sunglasses (Imaginary Lines) will be on show at Silmo

Ørgreen Optics will introduce several new and daring frames into its repertoire, where state-of-the-art materials and original colour palettes create a cutting-edge offer of comfortable and contemporary styles in acetate, 3D printed polyamide, titanium and stainless steel. They will include the daring Plus One frame (above) in the Imaginary Lines collection which takes inspiration from the classic Pilot tear drop sunglasses, infusing it with a bold and sporty twist. What sets Plus One apart are its discreet 3D printed side shields. The 3D printing technology ensures a seamless integration,  accentuating the frame’s sleek profile while providing essential functionality.

All focus on temples and temple cores: Hulda by Gotti Switzerland: one of the new styles launching at the Paris fair

In many of the highest quality collections, detailing has become supremely refined, using techniques that draw parallels with jewellery design, and ideas for decorations and special effects that are surprising, exquisitely crafted and often remarkably finished and “finessed”.

Gotti Switzerland will show new styles across its collections, including acetate frames where colour is a principal story. The frame combine an aesthetic where soft lines and highly polished surfaces fuse with playful colours which include fuchsia red, earthy caramel brown and soft sea grass green. The Swiss brand will also present a new titanium collection at the Paris fair.

Rolf Spectacles – the new Wire collection will launch at Silmo

Rolf Spectacles told Eyestylist they have multiple new products launching at Silmo. Highlights will include the new Wire collection, which promises a fascinating melding together of functionality and style in frames that offer an artistic look that feels fresh and slightly daring with colour. Among the other launches at ROLF, the stonewashed colours in graphite and jade are likely to be a talking point in the Substance collection, ROLF’s award-winning sustainable 3D printed collection, which goes from strength to strength.

FACE A FACE: models Pleats2 and Kyoto2 in the JAPAN NOW! collection – a brand new release for Silmo

For Silmo, FACE A FACE told Eyestylist they will release a new collection which builds on the exploration of the Memphis movement and a connection to contemporary Japanese design and designers such as Issey Miyake and Kengo Kuma. Two-tone model Kyoto (above) is inspired by Shiro Kuramata’s iconic armchair with a cylindrical backrest (“Sofa with Arms”). The creative spirit of the spectacles is emphasized by the geometric purity of the cylinder, which serves as both endpiece and temple. This iconic design is magnified by angular shapes that create a bold and poetic contrast. Model Pleats2 in this collection is inspired by Issey Miyake and the origami pleats used by the designer. A three-tone acetate model, the design combines two shapes – hexagonal and rectangular – the frame features bold two toned lines which replicate Miyake’s signature pleats in the Pleats Please collection.

J.F. Rey 3055 – a new Titanium collection for men to release at Silmo

French label J.F.REY is launching a new line of robust, lightweight, and aesthetically sophisticated optical frames for men. Increasingly ambitious in the technical design, the line is performance-oriented, combining creative construction, rich aesthetics, and quality manufacturing for a top-of-the-range product. Each one has a titanium front, stainless steel temples, carbon or glass fibre details and acetate end tips.

Haskell by Vada Eyes: the US label is showing at Silmo for the first time

Model Haskell is an example of what to expect from newcomer Vada Eyes, the Austin brand we have followed these last years (see ). Their jewellery expertise and commitment to Japanese production – mixed with a very infectious energy, positivity and individuality is sure to propel them into the European eyewear scene with success and well deserved notoriety – right away. For more information about Vada Eyes, visit

Silmo Paris – the international eyewear and optics fair – takes place from 29th September to 2nd October 2023 at Paris Nord Villepinte. This year, the fair will offer an array of activities, events and gatherings, including the popular Trends Forum, the Silmo Academy, the Silmo d’Or Awards – with an awards presentation event outside the Halls on the evening of Saturday 30th September  – and the IOA Award, a prize which honours an optician for their high level of professionalism. For further details and registration visit Watch our Eyestylist Design + Inspiration page for the next weeks for more updates and previews for the Paris show!