Arts + travel

Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear

What goes on beneath beautiful designer fashion creations is sometimes even a more sensual, fascinating harmony of sumptuous materials and colours. The Victoria & Albert Museum in London explores the personal, fashionable journey of underwear’s roles in Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear.

Installation view from Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear
Installation view from Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear

More than two hundred examples of underwear for men and women are featured – from the homemade to the fabulously luxurious. On display are corsets (top image), hosiery, lingerie and nightwear, plus contextual fashion plates, photographs, advertisements and packaging.

Comfort at home: Loungewear
Comfort at home: Loungewear

Rare 18th Century  hooped petticoats are also featured alongside crinolines and bustles. Long cotton drawers worn by Queen Victoria’s mother; floral embroidered stockings worn by Queen Alexandra, wife of King Edward VII; and Schiaparelli nylon stockings from 1953 emphasise the practical, as well as the alluring. Designer pieces by Rigby and Peller, La Perla, Stella McCartney and Paul Smith are also highlighted. The exhibition also demonstrates how underclothes and nightclothes morphed into loungewear, with the continuing desire for comfort at home, and a blurring of the line between underwear and outerwear, public and private.

Cage Crinoline The Princess Louise Jupon patent 1871
Cage Crinoline The Princess Louise Jupon patent 1871

Edwina Ehrman, Curator of Textiles and Fashion at the V&A curated Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear. The intriguing presentation reveals how underwear can be created to transform or provoke, and it is impressive. The exhibition, sponsored by Agent Provocateur and Revlon, continues through 12 March 2017. www.vam.ac.uk/undressed JG

Photos: All images courtesy of Victoria & Albert Museum

LU.PA Studio at Villa Da Schio, Costozza

The elegant gardens of the Villa Da Schio and its much loved flower show – “Oltre il giardino” – provided the perfect surroundings for  designer Lucia Pasin’s collection of Flower Glasses and Sunglasses the weekend before last near Vicenza. LU.PA studio welcomed friends and opticians to the event which takes place in May each year and features flower stalls and exhibitors specialising in antiques, artisan gifts and handmade jewellery.

The original designs by LU.PA Studio, inspired by Pasin’s brightly coloured floral paintings, include statement cateye shapes and bold round frames – for men and women.

LU.PA Frames displayed at Villa Da Schio
LU.PA Frames displayed at Villa Da Schio

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Visitors try the new LU.PA sunglasses
Visitors try the new LU.PA sunglasses

LU.PA studio – from Belluno – was created in 2012 and the first collection, Antheia, was launched in February 2015, featuring six individualistic models in 24 colours/patterns. All the frames are designed and produced from start to finish in northern Italy. The 18th century Villa da Schio is a historic Venetian-style villa – home to the Trento and da Schio families for over 300 years – with splendid gardens and sculptures by Orazio Marinali.  For more information visit www.lupastudio.it / www.villadaschio.it CN

Sale of antique eyewear collection, London

An antique eyewear collection which includes 62 spectacles from Europe and China through the centuries will go on sale at the London International Antiquarian Book Fair at Olympia later this month. The earliest example in the historic collection is from circa 1790, whilst the latest spectacles included date from the 1940s. A few items described as “very rare examples”, include opticians’ diagnostic and measuring tools. The collection will be available to view on the Voyager Press stand at Olympia from the 26th to 28th May 2016 and carries a price tag of £4,950.

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Described as an unique opportunity to purchase a ready made collection of eyewear of the highest standard, it illustrates the history of spectacles from the late 1700s, through the 1800s and up to the mid-1900s. The collection covers the making of optical lenses and frames and the shifts in trends and mindsets towards eyewear over the centuries.

specstolarge9

specstolarge8

Highlights include some of the earliest tinted glasses and fold up spectacles, glasses which attached to the ear by a string, 10 pince-nez and a very rare pair of early 19th century surgeon’s magnifying glasses with large square lenses. For more information: www.voyager-press.com CN

Anatomy of a Collection

What devoted fashion follower wouldn’t love to roam in the archives of the Palais Galliera in Paris? Now the next best thing is possible. The Museum opens an exhibition on 14th May displaying a selection of garments with fashion and historical connections. The rich variety reflects the essence of the fashion treasures the museum has collected over the years.

Dress in Mousseline cotton worn by Empress Joséphine about 1805
Dress in Mousseline cotton worn by Empress Joséphine about 1805 Collection Palais Galliera Eric Poitevin/ADAGP 2016

Examples include items worn by Marie-Antoinette; Napoleon’s waistcoat; a dress belonging to George Sand; Sarah Bernhardt’s cape; an outfit by Givenchy for Audrey Hepburn; Tilda Swinton’s pyjama suit; and a dress from the Duchess of Windsor’s wardrobe – among other notable garments with historical associations.

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Givenchy two-piece dress for Audrey Hepburn 1966 Collection Palais Galliera Eric Poitevin/ADAGP 2016

Accessories are also included in this collection, and the identification with people who wore them further highlights these heritage pieces. Anatomy of a Collection is at Palais Galliera 14th May through 23rd October 2016. More info at www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr JG

Top photo: Christian Dior by Yves Stain Laurent wedding dress for Geneviève Page 1959 Collection Palais Galliera Eric Poitevin/ADAGP 2016

Contemporary Art in New York

An intriguing exhibition – featuring a group of Contemporary Artists –  opens Friday 1st April in New York City in trendy TriBeCa. Painting, sculpture, and installations will feature in the event, with contributions by individualistic, international artists. The cultural diversity of the participants brings fresh, original perspective to each presentation. The event is held in collaboration with shhhim (www.shhhim.com) which encourages and supports artists in promoting their work. Mixed-media artist and sculptor Constance Chabieres has been involved with art programmes for UNICEF in Asia and Africa. Her work is inspired by nature, colour, light, street style and people on the streets. Movement and rhythm highlight her creations, including the bronze sculpture above. www.chabrieres.net

BORDERLESS by Sara Badr Schmidt
BORDERLESS by Sara Badr Schmidt

Swedish/Lebanese Sara Badr Schmidt is presenting a work that she began ten years ago and continues “as a work in progress”, says the Paris-based artist. The concept is to show the limits of borders, but also the enrichment that different cultures compound. Borderless – the title of the installation project – are photos printed on canvas and mounted on light boxes, with some enhanced by a sound track. www.sarabadrschmidt.com

Painting by Lebanese/Jordanian artist Rafik Majzoub
Painting by Lebanese/Jordanian artist Rafik Majzoub

Among other artists exhibiting are Jerry Atkins, Sami Basbous, Rafik Majzoub and Brett Wallace. The exhibition continues through 18th April at 481 Washington Street, New York City 10013. Tel: +1 917 621 63 89. JG