Boutiques

Eyewear, tequila and an artsy vibe at Dr. York’s second fine eyewear destination in Mexico

With a neighbourhood that’s been dubbed the coolest in the world, Guadalajara is the place to be in Mexico in 2023. The city has a vibrant, fast-evolving art-and-design scene and cultural energy and charm – centred around the unique neighbourhood of Colonia Americana.

Dr. York opened in the locality in March 2021. Having built a reputation as a leading independent eyewear store in Mexico City, owners Jose Castellano and Elena Orestano had set their sights on something new, with a bold independent spirit and a different point of view. “We had started hearing through customers and friends about this peculiar neighbourhood and community in Guadalajara that was blossoming with an attention towards design, gastronomy, art, and architecture. We thought, and still do think, that it really was something special and we wanted to be part of it, so we started our research around 2017. Good things take time and we were lucky enough to find our spot in 2020 and finally opened (a little delayed because of Covid) in 2021.”

The space itself is more like a gallery studio than a straightforward store. “It definitely feels more like a studio than a store,” explains Castellano. “And that was the approach we were looking for. We wanted to have a space where we could express our personal point of view of our trade and where we could work on another project that we had not been able to make progress with before. So we though that the idea of a studio / store would be at least, unconventional.”

For the interior design, the couple commissioned Regina Pozo (founder of @txt.ure.mx) who they had already worked with for the remodelling of the Mexico City store. “She helped us to materialize this desire to design a Mexican experience for an optical shop. Her project helps artisans in small Mexican communities to have a platform where the world can enjoy and appreciate their craft. It felt right to work with her again; she helped us create this ambience where someone can feel that they are not only in an optical shop, but also in a studio where something special is blossoming, with an appreciation for local design, art and style.”

So far, the space stocks a choice of frames from Ahlem, Theo, Garrett Leight, Kuboraum and Labor. “We are looking forward to showcasing Lapima, Lazare and Vada in the coming months,” Jose adds. “As we started, we believed that there was no other space in Guadalajara that was presenting independent eyewear exclusively. We did not want to make an exact replica of our Mexico City collection, although it’s pretty hard not to because we are lucky to work with some of the best out there…we wanted to present something organic to our new community. And so there are some surprises from our original selection.”

The Castellano family have now made Guadalajara home, with Jose travelling to Mexico City every 10/12 days to spend 4/5 days with the Dr. York team and customers there. They say it works really well and that the team in MC is really well established and doing very well. “This year Dr. York Mexico City turns 12 years old. We are very lucky because since the beginning we were backed up by a great community, with many of them still trusting in us to take care of their eyes. The neighborhood there has evolved, and changed, like Dr. York, but something that we have always trusted and built on was the warmth of our service and our peculiar point of view towards our craft. Hopefully we have been able to communicate that precisely and we will continue to do so – in both cities – now and for the future.” Dr. York, C. Manuel López Cotilla 1234-Local B, 44160 Guadalajara / Dr. York, Álvaro Obregón 187-B, México, D.F.

Read more about Dr. York on Eyestylist at https://www.eyestylist.com/2011/07/dr-york-mexico-city/

Kayla Heersink a.k.a @opticali_style on Instagram is an optician with an edge. Exploring her affinity with the eyewear universe through both the history and story behind each frame, Kayla’s enthusiasm and passion is palpable in each and every image she posts. Especially enthralled by modern independent designers and forgotten eyewear gems from the past, her eye-drobe includes everything from space-age designs to single-lens oversized sunglasses and everything in between.

1. Do you remember when and why you were originally drawn to eyewear? Yes! I was prescribed my first pair of glasses in kindergarten, and I found the ‘fashion accessory’ aspects of my new medical device enthralling. I chose pink and crystal plastic frames. It was the era of embellishing the peripheral part of the lens with a tiny metallic decal, usually a monogram, so I selected a silver dog which obviously looked SO COOL. From then onwards, I was hooked for life.

2. What is your favourite fashion era for eyewear specifically? I think I would say the 1960s. It was like the Wild West, with designers trying out anything and everything. The introduction of new materials allowed designers to really get creative with colours and shapes that weren’t possible before that time. I’m thinking about the designs of Christian Dior, Pucci, Oliver Goldsmith, Anglo American Optical, Pierre Cardin, Futura by Silhouette, and Philippe Chevallier.

 3. If you were to choose one pair of glasses, vintage or modern, to describe you, which would you pick, and why? I would say the l.a.Eyeworks Bondo frame. It’s wacky, yet versatile – a real classic. It can fit in, stand out, and compel you to ask questions. 1990s conventions dictated that rimlocks should be mounted at the rear of a frame, but l.a.Eyeworks designers Gai Gherardi and Barbara McReynolds flipped that rule on it’s head and used the rimlocks as a design feature, amplifying the visible rimlock theme and even carrying a ‘spare tyre’ rim lock to hold an extra screw. For me, the spirit of this frame is unconventional, playful, and unafraid of authority.

4. Are there any current trends in the eyewear industry you’re enjoying particularly? I’m big into the new frame/clip-on combinations from GIMM eyewear, and Rigards.

5. If you had to steal one celebrity / style icon’s frame collection, whose would you choose? Oooh tough to choose between Elton John and Lady Gaga. Maybe hers… just because they’d fit me better.

6. What would you like to see more of from eyewear designers today? It would be great to see more unique frame textures and finishes. Aside from that, I would love to see more special editions and small-batch collaborations. It’s my favourite thing to see mash-ups between my favourite companies. Examples include Blake Kuwahara + l.a.Eyeworks, GIMM + Jean Philippe Joly, Gogosha + Baars.

7. Which eyewear brands (and particular frames, if possible) are on your wish list?I would love to get my hands on a pair of the first Christian Dior frames made by Tura, with the beautiful enamelling and ornamentation. I’ve also always wanted a pair of vintage Casanova frames. I’m currently coveting the Anne & Valentin MECACOOL from the “Mecanix” collection, but I am also presently obsessed with both the P and Q series by Kuboraum. Otherwise, I can’t wait to see the Rigards x Kamonuj frame/clip model RG0318JM that took more than a year to develop.

8.What trends do you predict for this summer’s eyewear, if any? I can’t predict – I’m not that cool. But my hope is for juicy colours this summer, always and forevermore.

9. Are there any underdog eyewear brands you expect to rise as future industry stars soon? I’m not sure if they’re underdogs, but I see both Lapima and Vada as rising stars.

10. If you could create a collaboration between any brand and any person / artist / celebrity /style icon, who would you unite, and why? This is a fun topic! Maybe I would pair myself with someone. If not, I’d put together Von Miller with theo and Diane Keaton with Mykita. Both celebrities are known for wearing glasses and would be superb model/collaborators, and both frame companies have made exceptional high-fashion collaboration collections in the past.

Kayla Heersink works at her family’s eyecare business in rural Colorado, USA. Previously she has worked at Gogosha Optique and Rims & Goggles. Top image: Kayla is wearing Denfert by Paname Eyewear. 

An interview feature by Victoria G. L. Brunton exclusively for Eyestylist.com. 

An innovative pop-up by SALT. Optics and Blick Brillen has opened in Rotterdam 

With a history of working together – that dates back 11 years – SALT. Optics and Blick Brillen have a close and evolving relationship. Their latest collaboration is a carefully designed pop-up store in the heart of the city of Rotterdam, designed to present  SALT.’s Optical Collection, and fully branded to reflect the style of the Californian brand.

Shop Owner Mike Portier told Eyestylist: “The pop-up represents SALT. so, in this case, we worked on a clean design with natural accents. We asked SALT. to choose the colours, visuals and signing; not only in the shop but also on the window and facade because it should be their showcase. We try to lead every customer through the pop-up store, which is interesting because it very often feels like a different world.”

“SALT. is a timeless but fashionable collection. Some models, like the Brower, have been around for years but still work. The pure design, combined with high quality materials and construction make it a perfect collection for customers who value stylish eyewear that last for multiple seasons….” Mike Portier, Blick

Blick is well known for its original events with eyewear brands. Portier told us: “The 50 square meters of Blick make my world as a shop owner very limited and since I’m easily bored, I do need fresh impulses from time to time! Normally the collections we work with have to adapt to Blick as a brand. In the pop-up store, though Blick then has to adapt to the collection as a brand. This fresh energy very often also affects what’s happening in the main store.”

Blick Brillen (main store), Pannekoekstraat 37A – Rotterdam, ZH, 3011 LC The Netherlands – the temporary pop-up is open during the same hours as the main store. www.saltoptics.com / www.blickbrillen.nl

Eyestylist featured Blick Brillen previously in 2020; click on the link to read more: https://www.eyestylist.com/2020/09/suzy-glam-pops-up-in-rotterdam/

Marco Andreoni of In Barberia Bottega Ottica shared the history of a very unique eyewear store in Italy where frames are still made exclusively by hand

“Our family story started in 1980 with a small optical store near Venice,” explains Marco Andreoni, when we asked him about the creation of the beautiful ‘In Barberia’ stores in Treviso and now the heart of Venice. “For the last 12 years, we have sold independent eyewear collections exclusively – at the same time we started to realize our own pieces by hand in acetate.”

In Barberia’s shop in the heart of the city of Treviso, has been open for 5 years. The owners created their namesake collection – In Barberia – as a completely handmade collection. The very first frame that they made was worn by Elliott Gould in the film Ocean’s 11. “At that point, we decided to show the way in which we work and we opened the window of our lab so people could look in. Since then, everyone can see what we do with their very own eyes.”

Today, the interiors of both stores reflect the craftsmanship at the centre of the very unique style of the artisan business. “Antonio, my business partner and co-founder, works in the window in a setting that is very much about vintage style fitted with original furniture from the past.”
In 2022, Marco and Antonio also opened their shop/atelier in the heart of Venice, with the same design as the Treviso location. “In Venice we sell our collection exclusively, offering both prêt-à-porter and bespoke frames….we believe we have become one of few shop in Europe to do this and the first one in Italy; we don’t use any machines to create the frames and temples. We have also set up a kind of school in the lab of the Treviso studio so that we can teach the art of traditional spectacle-making to our young workers.

At In Barberia, beespoke frames are produced in acetate and buffalo horn, using also old materials from Mazzucchelli and many other acetate companies in France and Japan. The buffalo horn is imported from India and some sheep horn is also being used – sourced from Sardinia Italy.
International connections are also successful. The business is working closely with the well-known Athens optical store, Johnnie Rousso. “We have a special friendship and partnership With Johnnie Rousso, and he is our unique provider of the IN BARBERIA collection and bespoke frames in Athens, Greece.”
Other special projects include the creation of capsule collections for designers and artists. At the end of 2022, In Barberia released a special collab with the street artist ENDLESS from London (@endlessartist) in a limited edition of 25 pieces.
“During 2023 we will open a new shop outside Italy, but at the moment I can’t say any more…” adds Marco as we try to find out more about activities for 2023!

In Barberia is owned by Marco Andreoni and Antonio Battaglia.

In Barberia Bottega Ottica, Via Barberia 22, Treviso, Italy
In Barberia Occhiali  Su Misura, San Marco Calle Fuseri 4373, Venice, Italy

Founded in 2014, Binokle is a unique, female-owned independent eyewear boutique based in Krakow, Poland that offers customers a hands-on optical styling approach paired with an extensive range of artistically designed frames. Situated in a country that neighbours Ukraine, recent years haven’t been easy for the boutique, but their list of loyal clientele only continues to grow. Victoria G. L. Brunton spoke to founder Paulina Bajdas to find out more…

Tell us a little about yourself: your education / professional background…My name is Paulina Bajdas, I live in Krakow and I opened Binokle at the beginning of 2014. People often ask me why I decided to start my business, and it’s because I wanted to contribute to the local community. I was seeking self-accomplishment, my place in the world, and had worked in different industries looking for things that I was good at. There was a period in my life when I worked as a stylist, in a shop belonging to a well-known chain of optical salons. There, I noticed that people found it difficult to choose frames that fit them and also that the eyewear market in Krakow was very limited. Clients usually find themselves being offered mass-produced glasses, and the whole market of independent brands was being ignored.

I graduated with a Masters in business management alongside a two-year diploma in styling and make-up. At that time, I decided to enrol in an optics school and began looking for financing to open the first Krakow eyewear shop with independent brands. My first choice was MOSCOT, I was actually the first person to import this brand to Poland. After that, I successfully  started to bring in new brands that I discovered during optics exhibitions in Milan, Paris and Munich. Later on, I decided to expand my knowledge and I finished optometry at the Medical University in Poznań.

How do you select the brands you stock? I want all the frames in my shop to be top-notch quality, I don’t want to see my clients being forced to return here with a complaint. I feel satisfied when selling high quality products and my customer service is second to none. Another important aspect of the products I stock is interesting and extraordinary design. From the very beginning, my goal was to offer frames that people feel comfortable with but also feel special wearing. A lot of my customers are not afraid to highlight their appearance with bold frames. I stock brands from all over the world, and because of that I introduce aesthetics from different places; from minimalistic Scandinavian style to Spanish brands that are colorful, bold and without limitations. I travel a lot, and in doing so I look for inspiration. When I visited Lisbon, for example, I was inspired by a beautiful shop with vintage frames. After that experience, I decided to introduce a small vintage collection in Binokle — it was well received.

Did you always want to work in fashion / eyewear or was it an offshoot of another passion? Before opening the store, I worked as a stylist on photoshoots. I always had a feel for aesthetics and style. Like a photographer who can always find a good composition and capture the real character of whoever’s being photographed, on seeing a client I immediately know which frames would complement their character in the best possible way. That is a kind of talent.

Does Binokle have a certain type of customer? If I would need to describe the type of clients that visit us, I would say that they are very aware of what they want, they don’t blindly follow trends and they look for the best quality in a unique form. For them, showing off a brand name is not at all important; what matters most is an interesting design. I’m lucky to have a pleasant, open list of clientele and a lot of regular customers who buy frames only from me.

What have been some of the most popular trends within the Polish eyewear market? After the trial of Johnny Depp and Amber Heard, I got a lot of calls from people asking what glasses Johnny was wearing and where they could get them. Frankly speaking, I don’t care about trends. I value timeless design – something which doesn’t necessarily mean classic and boring, but rather pieces that won’t go out of fashion in a couple of years. When a client decides to wear a pair of my frames that they bought 5 years ago, nobody will say they’re unfashionable. The only pattern that I notice is that my clients are attached to certain brands and their line of products. However, I am well aware that my products are only of interest to a small percentage of all eyewear users.

How does the current political situation with Russia and Ukraine affect business, if at all? When the war in Ukraine broke out, life in Krakow stopped for a whole two weeks. Shops and restaurants were empty, all the inhabitants were primarily focused on helping refugees and we put our energy into helping Ukrainians. Simultaneously, we feared the worst. “What will happen with Poland?” This was on everybody’s mind. However, life needs to go on and local businesses won’t function if there aren’t any clients, so we swiftly went back to normal. I’m proud that my fellow citizens managed to face this problematic situation with strength and courage; our Eastern European neighbours are our brothers and sisters.

Are there any Polish eyewear brands / designers you’re excited about at the moment? No one Polish is on my radar at the moment, unfortunately, but I admire Kasia Łupińska at Massada.

Tell us about the performance / dancers we saw on your Instagram recently? This was a project about the pandemic, portraying a certain feeling of emptiness that surrounded us during isolation. It was an expression of hope and fear of uncertainty. These dancers from Krakow Dance Theatre perform behind shop windows annually, Binokle was one among other boutiques selling niche brands that participated this year. It was the third consecutive year that I had the pleasure of welcoming these artists into my store. A lot of people gathered to watch; I am always thrilled to see so many people participating in local artistic events. (more…)