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Sweet delights in Paris

La Maison du Chou – handmade cream puffs in St. Germain

24th May 2013 Paris is well-known for its beautiful patisseries and I have had some new experiences this week trying and viewing some particularly elegant examples at Rose Bakery, Carette and Les Deux Magots…but this new little pastry “maison” is worth a special detour. The freshly made chou puffs are filled in front of the customer with chocolate, coffee or natural cream. Owned by Emma Gilkeson, the little interior is so elegant that it has become a destination for fashionistas and pastry connoisseurs alike. 6 choux cost 10 euros; I brought mine home in their little box on the Eurostar but they disappeared on arrival!

La Maison du Chou, 7 rue de Furstenberg, 75006 Paris.

Eyewear Presentation with Artistic Flair

Anne & Valentin in New York and Paris

13th May 2013 French eyewear creator Anne Valentin’s two boutiques resemble stunning art galleries. The frames are displayed as works of art, which they are! The Toulouse based designer discusses with Eyestylist her shops in Paris and New York.

When did the Paris shop open? and New York City? “We opened the boutique in Paris…I think about 2001. In New York, we finished the shop just before the last MIDO. It is very beautiful and we are delighted with the result.” (above)

Both Paris and New York are frequent travel destinations for visitors and professionals worldwide. Did this influence your choice of location? “Why New York? Because everybody comes to this city. It is very interesting to come and confront the diversity that makes up the population. You know, for the entire world, this city in the US is a reference. It is full of contradictions and full of possibilities. Like all the French, I  love to wander in Soho in New York; it’s not very original I concede, but good! And the area always provides many surprises; with its organisation, but a neighbourhood where you can still find surprises. Also, it is charming, and then there are trees, flowers and birds – life is very bohéme. Our commercial proposition is a true proposition; it has a root identity, value and commitment. We are, in this way, a beautiful surprise for everyone, tourists or not. Our clientele is educated, curious, cultivated and sensible, whatever country they come from.”

Anne et Valentin Boutique in the Marais Paris
Anne et Valentin Boutique in the Marais Paris

Does Anne et Valentin have any plans to open additional stores in different countries? “Maybe……one day…..”

Any additional comments you would like to add? “I want to thank you for this interview, and I hope that our efforts for creating refined, fresh and thoughtful designs for life, permit our dear clients and opticians to have has much pleasure as we have in making them.”  Anne et Valentin 4, rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie 75004 Paris and 2 Prince Street New York, 10012 www.anneetvalentin.com JG

 

Alice Goes to Cannes

Anna-Karin Karlsson

A focus on Fashionista Eye Candy for this May edition? My first thought was of Anna-Karin Karlsson and the delightful styles such as ‘Coco and the Row’ or ‘Black Horse’ which express a whole new inimitable language in creative sunglass design. And then we found another nine designs that sum up the mood this Summer for those who want creative design and beautifully made shades…from cateyes to aviators, pastels to neons, this is eye candy that we take our Eyestylist hats off to!

Eyestylist has always been a big fan of ‘Alice Goes to Cannes’ by Anna-Karin Karlsson, (see the first of these here: https://www.eyestylist.com/2011/05/introducing-anna-karin-karlsson/) and this, the latest version, (above) has to be a winner for the summer ahead. Produced in pink with gold glitter, this little bombshell fits perfectly with the sweet pastel trend whilst having a bold blocked shocking pink on the inside for that extra little something. Ms Karlsson’s powerful collection for this year continues to thrill the fashion world around the globe. It’s an exciting story that is still unfolding.  www.annakarinkarlsson.com CN

Oliviero Zanon

Eyewear Ingenuity from Res/Rei

1st May 2013 On several occasions, I’ve been fortunate to have long chats with Italian designer Oliviero Zanon, who is an engaging conversationalist. He’s well versed on many subjects, and of course, one of his favourite topics is Res/Rei, the specialist eyewear design company he co-founded in 2011. Zanon shares with Eyestylist the background that led to the creation of Res/Rei.

“I went to university in London at Central Saint Martin College of Art and Design. I did a Foundation degree in Art and Design, and then a Products Design degree, graduating with first class honours. Central Saint Martin, in many ways, is different from any other University out there. Its uniqueness is in the “hands on” approach with things. The students are asked to do the whole design process, from research/idea to prototyping/manufacturing implementation. Getting your hands dirty building things in the workshop is an inspiring experience. After university, I started working as an industrial designer in London where I lived until 2010. I worked for IDEO London and Munich, an American consultancy that focus on Human Centered Design. This was a meaningful experience.”

Lucio - Limited Edition by Res/Rei
Lucio – Limited Edition by Res/Rei

“My encounter with the optic business was definitely by chance. The reason that led to the creation of Res/Rei is the will to work at close contact with artisans and producers. At one point in my design career, I was consulting mainly with blue chip clients, huge companies with thousands of employees. I couldn’t relate any more to the design process; it was too impersonal. I wanted a more human experience, and making frames was the answer. In this business you can control the whole process and interact with all the people involved – from manufacturers to final clients. It’s work but it feels like family…we are making so many new friends during our journey, and it is quite amazing.”

 

Teodosio by Oliviero Zanon for Res/Rei
Teodosio by Oliviero Zanon for Res/Rei

Res/Rei started in 2011 – in the midst of economic uncertainty. Did the economy ever make you “think twice” before starting the company? “Of course, the current economic crisis makes things more difficult, but it also creates opportunities, especially for new companies like ourselves. I know, this sounds like a cliché, but it is actually quite true. We are building our brand around firm ethical principles – like the sustainability of the manufacturing. Hopefully, most of our customers share the same vision with us. This gives us the opportunity to build a long lasting relationship with them.”

What inspires your designs? “Part of the inspiration comes from talking to other people that have meaningful experiences to share, mostly outside the optics business. Speaking of which, I’ve just spent a very inspiring day at the Milan Furniture Fair.”

Do you have a “profile” of a particular customer when you design? “Not really. We are not interested in following the stream. We are slowly building our unique identity. Of course, it takes time and you need to do lots of design interaction to become proficient as a brand, but eventually we will get there. It’s a different story with colours and shapes. On this matter,there is a clear distinction between men and women.”

Res/Rei is creating frames in acetate, metal/acetate and titanium – are there any other materials you would like to use? “Right now, we are experimenting with a new material nobody has used so far. But I can’t tell more about this – it’s top secret!” Photo of Oliviero Zanon exclusively for Eyestylist.com by Gilles Stüssi www.resrei.com JG

 

 

 

The Art of Tudor and Stuart Fashion

Luxurious Fashion of Court Life

1st May 2013 The interest in what royalty wears is not a new phenomenon. In the 16th and 17th centuries, monarchs and their court were admired for their fashion sense and innovative style. For the Tudor and Stuart elite, luxurious clothing was an essential component of court life. Now this intriguing world can be explored in a stunningly curated exhibition – In Fine Style: The Art of Tudor and Stuart Fashion – at The Queen’s Gallery, Buckingham Palace, London. Garments and accessories – and the way in which they were worn – conveyed important messages about wealth, gender, age, social position, marital status and religion. The exhibition traces changing tastes in fashionable attire and the spread of fashion through the royal courts of Europe in the 16th and 17th centuries. Exquisite portraits, drawings and prints from the Royal Collection are on display, along with rare surviving examples of clothing and accessories, that illustrates the style of the rich and famous of the Tudor and Stuart periods. In the portraits, high maintenance and impractical clothing provided a clear message to the viewer that the subject of the portrait enjoyed a privileged lifestyle, and had plenty of spare time to devote to the pursuit of fashion and the lengthy process of dressing.  The portrait above – by William Scrots of Elizabeth First when a princess (c1548) shows her wearing one of the most striking, yet invisible elements of Tudor fashionable dress – a hooped underskirt known as the ‘farthingale’, which created a distinctive conical shape.

 

Frances Terest Stuart, Duchess of Richmond by Sir Peter Lely c1662
Frances Teresa Stuart, Duchess of Richmond by Sir Peter Lely c1662

Male fashions are on display too, and matched those of women in the luxuriousness of materials and complexity of design, and elements of masculine dress were adopted by women as well. Fashion accessories of the Tudor and Stuart period ranged from the quirky – a purse in the shape of a frog – to the ostentatious. Among the most important jewels were pearls, and the amazing ‘La Peregrina’ (The Wanderer) pearl, weighing 58.5 carats, the largest pearl in existence at the time of its discovery, was presented to Mary 1 by Philip 11 of Spain as a betrothal gift. In Fine Style: The Art of Tudor and Stuart Fashion is an enchanting voyage of both history and fashion. Opening on 10 May 2013 until 6 October 2013 at The Queens Gallery, Buckingham Palace. Tickets and visitor information: www.royalcollection.org.uk JG

Photos: Courtesy of The Royal Collection