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Vintage Spirit

29th April 2013

Designs With Retro Heritage

29th April 2013 Vintage is an international language – witnessed here with two retro inspired designs created in far-flung countries – Australia and Hungary. From “down under” Jono Hennessy’s Rad Grad makes a strong vintage statement with its finely crafted shape in elegant crystal and black acetate. www.jonohennessy.com

LOFT Santa Monica Show October 16th and 17th

MIDO 6-8 February 2027. Welcome to Eyewearland

Vinylize in Budapest endorses the vintage theme with this sleek cat eye design, Tadashi, created from vintage vinyl records. The gentle shaping highlights the natural grooves from the records. Unique! www.vinylize.com JG

Arts + travel

Emilio Pucci

22nd April 2013

An Aristocratic Fashion Legend

22nd April 2013 Emilio Pucci was an Italian Marquis, philosopher, and a dashing designer darling for socialites and fashionable women, with an amazing sense of style, colour and memorable prints. His little boutique on the idyllic Isle of Capri drew the likes of Jacqueline Kennedy and Marilyn Monroe to his doorstep. Nowadays, The House of Pucci fans include Victoria Beckham and a host of other stylish women, who love to wear Pucci’s contemporary designs in magical colours.

Emilio Pucci in Florence Italy on a fashion shoot — Emilio Pucci in Florence, Italy on a fashion shoot

Taschen has published a beautiful book that traces the aristocratic roots of the charismatic designer, and how a tiny store owned by the family became an international brand. The book is lavishly illustrated with photographs, drawings, and images from the Emilio Pucci Foundation. Author Vanessa Friedman has captured the essence of Pucci’s versatility, and his impact on fashion history. www.taschen.com JG

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Christian Roth and Eric Domège

8th April 2013

A new story, rooted in the past, at Christian Roth Eyewear

8th April 2013 I first started following Christian Roth when I got my first job in optical publishing back in 1999. In the ’80s and ’90s, this independent label had already played an impressive role in establishing sunglasses as a key accessory in the fashion arena, and their glamorous shades were worn by everyone who was anyone in fashion and music…memorably, because of the extraordinary images that ensued, Kate Moss, Agyness Dean, Lenny Kravitz, and many, many more.

Series A, Optical Affairs Christian Roth / circa 19?? — PAST: Series A, Christian Roth / 1980s

Today Roth and Domège have new plans, both in eyewear and beyond, with new capsule collections including optical frames and sunglasses, and other Christian Roth accessories that they will unveil in 2014/15 via the website. As part of our special Vintage Edition, we asked them, in an exclusive interview, about their new project, the launch of their e-commerce destination and what the future holds for this iconic name in sunglass fashion.

PAST: Optical Affairs / Christian Roth, the early years – signed by Warhol

“Our first overnight success was with Series A (above), our rimless frame in acetate and metal, designed so you could customise the lens shape with the colour of the frame. It was something very different back then, so that it became an overnight success and went straight on the cover of WWD. At that time, we were seeing our frames on all kinds of influential people from different walks of life, from Andy Warhol to Diana Ross, but it wasn’t endorsement, they were genuinely buying our frames and wanting to wear them because they loved them. It was incredible. It is our privilege to have lived in NYC in that period when celebrity culture was not such an issue.

“In the early 90s we joined the CFDA, thanks to Anna Wintour and Candy Pratts Price (the US Vogue team) who wanted the best eyewear designers on board as part of the Association; that was another important moment. We were the first to be a part of it, we were there at the right time! And it offered so much – we were given the support of Michael Kors and Marc Jacobs as our ‘godfathers’. We began to work with these very big designers. We had a very inspiring working relationship with Karl Lagerfeld for the runway shows and collaborations with the most prolific and talented designers of our times continued for decades. We had our own studio in New York and we started to run private views of our collections. It was in a very cool place next door to a famous agency where we met a very young Claudia Schiffer.

Kaleidoscopic Cool by Christian Roth — PRESENT: From the new Christian Roth BLOCK-ON Capsule 2013

“Today we have completely redefined the Christian Roth concept, our image, and collections – placing the spotlight on the best of “Christian Roth”. We have created a whole new life for the brand adding fun, excitement and the unexpected for eyewear aficionados. Our goal is to now connect through our crisp, conceptual and modern e-commerce destination – www.christian-roth.com – with our many visionary fans from all over the world, and to reach more seekers of beautiful and unique eyewear. It is a very different, very personal site, where you can get behind the scenes.

“In 2013, the new frames will be availably via the site and through a few ambassador optical stores. Our first Block-On capsule collection includes Italian acetates and Japanese titanium. It is all about craftsmanship, high-quality and mixing geometric, precise, graphic and modern elements. We have worked in a very detailed way with special touches, mixing colour and chic transparent tones. Every frame is crafted by artisans to have its own identity and uniqueness, and we will renew our capsule every few months with new additions, another unusual concept in eyewear that we feel will be exciting for our online customers. On the site, we have added a small shopping area for rare vintage designs, both our own and others; it is something fun, for collectors and people who love the history of frames. The site also shows our support for OrphanAid Africa, something which touches our hearts.

“For the future we want Christian Roth to grow into a one-of-a-kind independent accessory brand with new categories which we will launch in 2014/15. We believe this is really something that will complement our frames and the spirit of the brand and appeal to the luxury market’s expectations. We have a great devotion to eyewear, and it is exciting for us to develop a new choice of accessories that will make sense for Christian Roth Eyewear”. CN

www.christian-roth.com

Arts + travel

Paris Haute Couture

1st April 2013

Designer Masterpieces at Paris City Hall

1st April 2013 The elegant surroundings of Paris City Hall celebrates haute couture with a dazzling selection of designs by fashion luminaries from Doucet to Dior, Chanel to Courrèges, and Vionnet to Yves Saint Laurent. The exhibition is organised in collaboration with the Galliera Museum in Paris and Swarovski, whose crystals have a long history with haute couture and designers. Over one hundred designs are featured – many of which have never been on public display before. Haute couture was born in Paris in the mid-19th century, and since then, generations of designers have transformed this supposedly frivolous discipline into high art.

Haute Couture elegance from Bruyere 1944

What is amazing on viewing the gorgeous assemblage of outfits is to think of the talent and skills in the hands of the people who made the designs a reality – embroiders and plumassiers (feather workers); hands that knew exactly how and where to place or form a flower and other couture embellishments. The exhibition is a beautiful tribute to Haute Couture and provides insight into the behind the scenes process of world-famous fashion houses. The exhibition continues through 6 July 2013 at Paris City Hall, Saint-Jean Room, 5 rue Lobau, 75004 Paris. Open every day except Sundays and bank holidays, from 10h00 to 19h00. JG

Photos: Coutresy of Paris City Hall Top photo: Balenciaga Evening Outfit August 1967

Boutiques

Hoet in Brussels and Bruges

1st April 2013

Stylish Boutiques in Belgium

1st April 2013 Hoet in Belgium traces its optical origins to 1884, and the family legacy continues to this day. Patrick Hoet and his daughter Bieke oversee the design office with their team, and the Hoet stores are run by Lieselotte Hoet (Patrick’s daughter) and Lieselotte’s husband Frederik Ghesquière. The tenacity of the company is formidable, as they have endured World Wars and economic upheaval. Hoet faith in the future was confirmed when just after WW2, they opened a boutique in the charming setting of Bruges, a major attraction for tourists. The present location of the Brussels store opened seven years ago, and the unique interiors of both shops were created by Hoet.

The chic Brussels boutique (above) is a mecca for diplomats, European Union personnel and functionaries, expats and visitors, who enjoy roaming the spacious (220 square meters) interior for Hoet frames and accessories. Are there other labels in the boutique? “Very few”, said Frederik Ghesquière, “and rule number one: no visible logo’s. Rule number two: original design. Rule number three: quality. For example, we have Factory 900, Wollenweber – the horn collection – Reiz, Xavier Derome, and from our ‘classic’ client – Lindberg.”

Hoet's elegant Bruges Boutique — Hoet’s elegant Bruges Boutique

As Bruges is a favourite summer destination in particular, the client profile is different. “We don’t present ‘tourist’ glasses,” says Ghesquière, “and over the years we have acquired some reputation in Bruges. When asked, the hotel concierge advises visitors to see our store. That is, of course, if the guests are not looking for ‘branded’ eyewear.”

Hoet has considered opening shops outside Belgium, but for the time being, limit themselves to having their own collections on display at selected shops in other locations. In-store events are held, particularly in Brussels, because there is more space, and Hoet participates in Design Brussels, and Modo Bruxelles which are yearly features. They often also invite creators from other sectors – art, fur and jewellery – to participate in a Hoet occasion.

Brussels and Bruges are both inspiring and interesting destinations – and even more so with the delightful Hoet boutiques to visit – a must on the Belgium itinerary! www.hoet.be JG