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Impactful design at the independent labels

5th March 2013 It is when you see some of the finest frames close up or worn on the face, or popped on your own, that you can get an understanding of the workmanship that some designers put into their frame designs. Eyestylist has been in Milan this weekend, to view a host of collections from across the world, and we are fortunate to hold and try on many of their prized creations.

In the past days we have seen innovative new materials and new ways of combining materials; we have seen continued dedication to old-school spectacle making techniques and finishings, and intricate tooling and finishing work both in metals – as they see the start of another re-surgence – and acetate. We have noticed some punchy, upbeat design ideas and colour stories (details will follow) and we’ve tried on some truly charismatic shapes and colours, some of which we are sure will go down in eyewear history. 

The re-emergence of metals was evident everywhere. Highlights included the clean-cut styles shown to us by Jacob Kilsgaard from Denmark, whose label specialises in aluminium; he has combined his minimal design with more concentrated blocked colours – pictured – model Sun 5.8/8, in a strong, deep purple – an alluring edgy fashion colour for this year. These sunglasses feature Zeiss lenses, a perfect partner to these precisely built technical frames. The label is one of just two leading companies in Denmark to be granted the Zeiss certification and the lenses feature a miniature logo endorsing the authenticity. www.kilsgaard-eyewear.com

At Framers, the Berlin label, the selection of colours in the super-light German-made “Titanium collection” has been extended,  inviting a powerful interpretation. The line includes the big, bold, round Barcelona style – a homage to Salvador Dali – in statement black. www.framers.de CN