Category header

Giovanni Vitaloni and Nico Design

Turin’s unique eyewear company

1st March 2013 Home to the Fiat and an important industrial centre in north west Italy, Turin is not normally associated with eyewear. But Giovanni Vitaloni’s company has grown from a family business producing automobile parts and accessories to an eyewear design company, recognised for its pioneering spirit in terms of innovation, materials and uniquely Italian infusion of style and technical achievement. Working with Irene Chinaglia (head designer, above, centre) and Valerio Fava (pictured above, left), Vitaloni (above, right) is also a representative of the board of Anfao, the Italian association for producers of frames and sunglasses.

Baricole, Turin
Baricole, Turin

“Nico Design as a design company, has always been interested in product development and experimenting in colour, shapes, and materials. My family was manufacturing components originally so we used that experience in other sectors and applied it to eyewear; that is really how we began. I believe it is this direction that gave us a chance to create our own market in the frames’ business.

“For 10 years we have had our own showroom/store in Turin where all the collections are on display. It is like the heart of the two brands we have created, Vanni and Dérapage….we do special exhibitions here but it is also a place where our customers from the surrounding area can buy their frames direct from us.

“We have a design team in which I am involved, for the two labels. Personally I have developed my knowledge in terms of eyewear over the years, since I first started working with my dad. We opened our own factory in Belluno for metal frames and we had that for about 5 years, so I was able to learn a great deal about the production side.

“My aim has always been to have our own taste and identity – so we always start from a blank sheet of paper. Our process for developing the collections lasts in total about 9 months from start to finish. For example, we are developing our own colours with Mazzucchelli and in order to do that you need time.

 

Happy Days by Vanni
Happy Days by Vanni

What’s new at Vanni? ” We are launching new collections for the Hydra and Happy Days lines in Milan this month. We are also launching a new surface treatment on a metal frame called Mock-rock – we have created a unique matching  “Vanni” nail varnish in the same colour as the frame which is given with the frame as a gift. It’s beautiful!

“Vanni was born in 1991  – it is a line that has, and continues to be, based on colour concepts but our aim is always to find a balance between creativity, originality and wearability. We work very hard on our own acetate colours and unique patterns in collaboration with Mazzuchelli – this requires true dedication. www.vanniocchiali.com

Molecule / Derapage collection
MoleCube / Derapage collection

“Our other brand  – Dérapage – is dedicated to frame innovation. The latest addition here is a special MoleCube hinge which is made in Italy in its entirety – this consists of three strips of steel held together by a square pivot. Their is no need for adjustments and no risk of it coming undone which makes it very, very practical and popular for those who want integrity in the design and true wearability.” www.derapage-eyewear.com CN

 

David Bowie Is

Victoria & Albert Museum London

1st March 2013 An exhibition awaited with much anticipation – David Bowie Is –  opens this month at the V&A in London, and celebrates Bowie’s fifty years of songwriting, performing and recording, to designing costumes, stage sets and album artwork. The chronicle of Bowie’s extraordinary career starts in 1963, when David – or ‘Davie’ Jones as he was then – began to be involved with London’s burgeoning music scene. In 1965, he changed his stage name to David Bowie. He has never been fearful of breaking with tradition and being radical – whether in his choice of music or amazing costumes. The exhibition includes the original Ziggy Stardust jumpsuit and boots created by Freddie Burretti, and worn on national TV, when Bowie’s first single from the album The Rise and Fall of Ziggy Stardust was released. Bowie was fascinated with the designs of Kansaie Yamamoto, and approached him to design costumers for his Aladdin Sane tour. The striped bodysuit (above) was among the most flamboyant, sculptural and eye-catching that Bowie wore and was inspired by the Japanese style of samurai and kabuki actors.

Early days - David Bowie in1963 with the band Kon-rads
Early days – David Bowie in 1963 with the band Kon-rads

The luxury Italian fashion brand Gucci, and Sennheiser Group, the acclaimed German manufacturer of microphone and wireless transmission systems have generously sponsored this pioneering exhibition. David Bowie Is an altogether striking celebration of a truly original performer, whose immensely creative imagination and ubiquitous presence in music, fashion and the stage continues to influence contemporary visual and virtual culture. Opens 23rd March through 11 August 2013. www.vam.ac.uk JG

Top photo:  Striped bodysuit for Aladdin Sane tour. Designed by Kansai Yamamoto Photograph by Masayoshi Sukita 1963 Copyright Sukita/The David Bowie Archive 2012

Middle photo:  Promotional shoot for The Kon-rads Photograph by Roy Ainsworth 1963 Courtesy of the David Bowie archive 2012. Copyright V&A Images

Eyestylist salutes men’s eyewear

this month – Cult Classics with vitality and style! Click on Reviews to find some striking designs. Our Designer of the Month is a dynamic Parisian creator, and in Boutiques, we travel to Lyon. We have also visited Linda Farrow HQ in London, to see some seriously gorgeous fashion frames.
Visit City Guides for exhibitions and other cultural delights we’ll be featuring through the month.
Click and stay with Eyestylist for the latest in eyewear excitement and fashion news.

This site is legally privileged, controlled and operated by Eyestylist.com. Material on this website may not be communicated in any way whatsoever, without the prior written authorization of Eyestylist.com.

 

 

Men’s Eyewear – The Designer Approach

Tom Stevens Eyewear The Netherlands

26th February 2013 Tom Stevens reflects on “Men’s Eyewear – The Designer Approach”

Do you have a ‘role model’ when you design?  “Sometimes I use my dad’s face to work on a design. Of course, you always think about measurements, and fitting that is typical for male faces. I usually start drawing from an image/shape in my mind. Sometimes I fine tune a design on my father’s face.”

What is your perspective on colour, shape and material? “Taste is something different for everybody. I think a frame should complement/complete the face. I do prefer somewhat rounder shapes for men, instead of the very sharp-edged, angular frames. Regarding colours, I think a male frame should make a statement. If the design is good, many colours could fit. i prefer using only one colour on a design. If you use more, for example, two-tone, it is very important that the colours complement each other very well, otherwise it could totally destroy a good design. I love titanium designs for men in basic colours, but also fashion colours, like our neon orange model Lee.” (Below – inspired by Dutch singer  Lee Towers, from the 1980’s, who is also well known for his frames).

 

Lee in vivid orange by Tom Stevens
Lee in vivid orange by Tom Stevens

Nowadays, are men more experimental with eyewear? “Yes, I can see that more and more men like to wear a statement frame. Now it is more common to wear fashionable designs instead of very basic frames. Men are not afraid to wear a frame that stands out somewhat, and men like to distinguish themselves. I like this tendency – it’s fun!” www.stevenseyewear.com JG

 

 

Fortuny: An Artistic Legacy

Unique Fashion Perspective at Queen Sofia Spanish Institute – New York City

18th February 2013 The artistic legacy of Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo (1871-1949) is currently being celebrated with the recent publication of Fortuny Interiors (Eyestylist City Guides 22nd January 2013), and an exquisite retrospective at the Queen Sofia Spanish Institute on Park Avenue in Manhatten. Conceived by and curated with Oscar de la Renta, this is the first exhibition to examine the impact of both the matrilineal and paternal artistic legacies on Fortuny’s groundbreaking work in textiles, clothing design and visual arts. Born in Granada and raised in Paris, Fortuny spent his adult life in Venice, where his prodigious output was the result of a career that spanned over fifty years. It was through his clothing and textile designs that his exceptional artistic sensibilities reached their zenith, as well as a large international audience.

 

Luxurious pleats and drape by Fortuny
Luxurious pleats and drape by Fortuny

Many of his clothing designs, including the iconic Delphos dress (top photo) emphasized movement and the natural shape of an un-corseted body – just one of the ways that Fortuny’s clothing, although steeped in history, revealed a modern sensibility that helped to push fashion forward at the turn of the 20th Century. This stunning exhibition confirms the beauty and timelessness of fine design. Exhibition continues through 30 March 2013. www.queensofiaspanishinstitute.org JG

Photos Top: Mrs. William Wetmore modeling a Delphos gown in front of Fortuny fabric. Originally published in Vogue 15 December 1935. Photograph by Lusha Nelson Copyright Condé Nast Publications

Centre: Design by Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo, Peplos, 1910-1920 Coutresy of the Museo del Traje, Madrid