Geometric colour blocks and strong contrasts- a tribute to Piet Mondrian – signify the dramatic eyewear collection from Face à Face that they are launching this autumn. The bold shape with its sharp angles creates a real continuity between the acetate pieces. Purity, elegance and simplicity combine in this design by Pascal Jaulent, to create a beautiful new classic. www.faceaface-paris.com JG
29th September 2012 The highlight of my visit to Tranoï was re-connecting with Anna-Karin Karlsson, and viewing her fabulous new frames. She described the symbolic theme for the 2013 collection: “I took time out from the rest of the world, and moved to a cottage in the Swedish countryside in order to realise my ambition of creating couture eyewear. In the dark forests of northern Sweden, my determination and vision had few distractions, and I worked continuously and obsessively. “Perfecting the Art of Dying Alone”, the title of the collection, derives from working around, and engaging in, themes of grief and mourning. I created the collection to show the beauty and sorrow of sacrifice, and the perishability of it all.
“The design ‘One Trick Pony’ (above, photographed in a Stockholm cemetery) originates from the song I composed, and is my most sculptural work to date. The title plays with the derogative notion of knowing just one thing, and doing nothing but that thing. With this design, however, it stands for the determination and stubbornness behind doing exactly what you want and believe in, and the astonishing results that can lead to.”
www.annakarinkarlsson.com JG
11th September 2012 Chanel’s exhibition dedicated to Karl Lagerfeld’s latest book, The Little Black Jacket: Chanel’s classic revisited by Karl Lagerfeld and Carine Roitfeld, opens at the Saatchi Gallery in London in October. There is much talk about it given its success in other cities including Tokyo and New York.
The exhibition illustrates the versatility and timelessness of the iconic Chanel jacket, through Karl Lagerfeld’s 113 photographs, modelled on a variety of friends of the Fashion House, with each personality adapting the garment to reflect their own inimitable style – worn as a cape on singer Lily Allen, draped around model Stella Tennant, or transformed into a vest on Edie Campbell. The book will be available in bookshops in the autumn. (Pictured above, Charlotte Casiraghi in Chanel).
Saatchi Gallery, Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Road, London SW3 4RY. Exhibition runs from Friday 12th October to 28th October 2012.
Opening hours: 10am to 6pm, 7 days a week. Last entry 5.30pm. www.thelittleblackjacket.chanel.com CN
1st September 2012 Anticipation about visiting Antwerp was high – I’d heard many good reports about the city. But what really tweaked my curiosity was visiting the dynamically creative eyewear company, theo, based in the city recognised for its port history, and more recently, its avant-garde approach to fashion, art and culture. Communications director Miet Vaes was the perfect tour guide, escorting me not only through theo’s illustrious story, but also showing me some of the city’s highlights.
The theo tale began in 1989 when opticians Wim Somers and Patrick Hoet designed their first eyewear collection. “From the beginning, the concept was that design comes first,” says Miet, “along with the need to find a factory that can make frames to our standard of high quality – our requirements go beyond ordinary eyewear. Our frames are made in the Jura region of France in specialised factories.” The theo building hums with activity spread over three floors, with a brightly coloured interior – each floor is painted a different colour – plus a roof terrace. Located in a charming area of Antwerp, dotted with vintage clothing boutiques and antique shops, plus restaurants and galleries, it is in this creative hub that designing, marketing and sales takes place. The atmosphere is convivial and harmonious – during the winter months, employees play table tennis during lunchtime. Miet says that Wim’s “rules” includes “wearing suits is not allowed in the office.” Theo creates not only unique frames, but forges working relationships with employees who are very loyal – several employees have been with theo for over twenty years.
Wim Somers oversees the family business – ideas are put forth from Wim’s wife and sons – who are all involved. (top photo, left to right: Mik Somers (Sales) Jamme Cardoen, Wim’s wife (Administration Optiek Boutique Antwerp) Wim Somers (Big Boss theo) Jan Somers (commercial side of theo-Optiek shop) Toon Somers (Marketing). No doubt the wellspring of imaginative creativity, coupled with the unified team spirit, has catapulted theo to the top of the eyewear world – theo frames are sold in over fifty countries, and wearers include Bill Gates, among many other high profile fans.
Belgium/European designers also bring their innovations to theo – including Tim Van Steerbergen, James Van Vossel, Christoph Broich and Serge Bracké, who have all created eyewear for the company. Theo also encourages young talent, and works with students at the prestigious Fashion Academy in Antwerp.
Always on the cutting edge of eyewear with imaginative designs, the latest theo collection is called Fruit-O-licious- with deliciously exotic names – MelOn, LemOn, COcOnut, MangO and AbricOt. Two acetate colours are combined to create an illusion that one frame was made by assembling two frames. Technology, fashion, creativity and ingenuity unite harmoniously at theo, celebrating their third decade of eyewear innovation. Coming soon on eyestylist.com – more exciting theo news! www.theo.be JG
1st September 2012 As I stepped out of the taxi at the entrance to a flower filled street in The Hague, I realised I was in one of those wonderful locations about which people dream to open a business. Azami Optiek is a spacious, elegant shop just steps from the golden gates of Queen Beatrix’s Palace. A protected pedestrian zone, flowers line the street, and the lovely atmosphere continues when you enter Azami’s shop, with its openness and fresh approach to eyewear. It was really a pleasure to enter this tranquil eyewear oasis, and receive a friendly welcome from Bijan Azami and his capable staff.
“When the shop was designed, it had to reflect me – my personality,” says Azami, “and I wanted this reflection of me, and the way I want to do business – it wasn’t about selling. It is helping to choose – that is different. It’s like being a guide: for many people eyewear is a new field. When you connect with the person, you can feel what they want.” The boutique has a family history, about which Azami is proud and happy to relate. “Actually, before I opened the boutique, it was a Persian carpet shop for thirty years, that belonged to my father. He was going to step down, and thought it would be a good location for an optical shop. My father helped me with many of the non-optical things in the shop, so he continued to be active. It was a gift to work with him; we were companions, and had a good five years together, before he passed away.”
Azami brings the same precision to his selection of eyewear, as he did in creating the lovely interior to present the collections. “When I choose a brand, I look for quality, good design, continuity of the brand, and the service of the brand,” he says, “and these are the prerequisites, plus an identity. We have only independent designers here – Face à Face, Anne & Valentine, Dita, Reiz, Rolf, Cutler & Gross, Derome Brenner, Mykita and more. There are different reasons why opticians choose a brand, including innovation — it’s an ongoing process, including the creation our own designs as well, in buffalo horn and acetate.”
Azami clients come from all walks of life, and word-of-mouth has proven highly successful. “The customer IS the brand,” declares Azami, “and the frames in our shop have no logos, no labels. Our customers come to use for their exam- we have the best machines – quality, the products, service, expertise, advice – and that is why they come to us. We are still doing well, even in this economy.”
Azami’s passion for eyewear goes beyond fashion and frames – he believes that there needs to be more information about eye health and care to underdeveloped nations. “Do you know that one billion people could be helped? I want to bring sight to people.” He is actively working on a programme to provide basic techniques in education and health, plus organising micro credit to countries were sight problems are particularly prevalent. “The inner cannot be without the outer, and design cannot be without meaning. The eyes are the mirror of the soul, and glasses are more than an instrument to see better.” www.azami.nl JG