Creative spirits

Numerous and varied inspirations influence designers, and for Tim Van Steenbergen (above) his muses include music, opera and ballet. He has created costumes for Richard Wagner’s The Ring; La Scala in Milan; and the Staatsoper in Berlin, and now the Ballet Viaanderen. His latest foray is a personal interpretation of Limited Edition sunglasses based on the ballet masterpiece of Maurice Ravel –Pictures at an Exhibition. The composition is by Modest Mussorgsky, in an orchestration by Ravel, and is part of a triple bill performed by Ballet Viaanderen in Belgium.

Van Steenbergen shared with Eyestylist some of the background events for the Limited Edition glasses. “The idea was one big creative process,” said Van Steenbergen,”as when I started this project with Ballet Viaanderen, I wasn’t thinking about creating new frames. However, I discussed this with some colleagues, and realised the stage is dominated by five golden frames, and the story of a world in front of and behind the frames: to watch while being watched.

“That reminded me of frames. People are looking at you through the frame, and you look back at them. And just at that moment, theo asked me about creating a special Limited Edition! The main thing about the frames is ‘being watched.’¨ That’s why I chose the golden aspect – and it also refers to the golden frames onstage, which the dancers move through. With the golden mirrored lenses people look at you; but you don’t show them everything.”

The dance idiom in the ballet is tranquil and fluid, and translated into eyewear – this means bold forms in black, highlighted with golden edges in 24-carat gold. The reflective gold lenses are a reference to the interaction with the artist – or in this instance – the wearer. Six elegant models are available, wrapped in a cleaning cloth with a pattern from the costumes designed by Van Steenbergen for Pictures at an Exhibition, and stylishly packaged in a protective hard case. www.theo.be JG

Smoke x Mirrors – the New York label that launched last year – is the creative endeavour of two cousins: David Shabati and Roi Ironi (above). Roi tells Eyestylist how they started their business.

Please give a brief history of how Smoke x Mirrors was created? “It started in Mexico when I lost my glasses. I went out to replace them, but couldn’t find anything I liked – it all looked the same to me. After this, I couldn’t help but to explore, and that’s when I recognised the lack of innovation in the industry, and the white space waiting to be tapped into. After working in the watch business, a very traditional industry from a manufacturing standpoint, I saw eyewear as an opportunity and vehicle to really express creativity, and push technology to reach the desired design level.”

How would you describe the fashion concept and philosophy of Smoke x Mirrors? “We approach eyewear as a means of fashion innovation. Outside of our core collection, we release diverse, radically different capsule collections, and collaborations that don’t necessarily adhere to a set identity – that’s where the name comes in. It gives us the freedom to play and experiment with design, to push boundaries on the technical and aesthetic level. ”

What is the customer profile – and consumer marketplace – of the Smoke x Mirrors frame wearer? “Our glasses are genderless and ageless. Simply put, my girlfriend and my father wear the same frames.”

As newcomers to the eyewear industry – what are the biggest challenges so far? “The classic industry is not relevant as it is today, but is undergoing a seismic shift that we’re set to lead.”

In the next three years, how do you foresee Smoke x Mirrors developing your own identity, and distinguishing your brand in the eyewear business? “In terms of identity, time is not relevant – whether’s it’s now or in three years, we’ll still be Smoke x Mirrors.” www.smokexmirrors.com  Smoke x Mirrors will present their latest capsule collection – GEO –  at Silmo in Paris 23rd-26th September. www.silmoparis.com JG

With great personal flair and style, plus fashion forward vision – meet David Duralde. Eyestylist speaks with the Chief Creative Officer at Kenmark Optical.

Please tell us about your professional career. “Raised in Southern California, an Orange County boy, I embraced the spirit of optimism, adventure and innovation that is key to the sunshine state. California has a tradition of creating trends that question convention – setting fashion on its ear with things like surf wear, sports and workout clothes to the boardroom, jeans at a formal dinner – nothing was sacred or precious in LA. From a town that lets a person make his own history, this was a fertile brewing ground for my creative start. Then moving to Los Angeles to study at UCLA, I was immersed in the looking good culture. So it was this strange mix living in a place and time when young ideas bucking the establishment were the norm, and people wanting to completely transform themselves through fashion, design and fitness – this became a major driver that convinced me I could make people look and feel better, and pay the rent. As I was fortunate enough to work under Barbara McReynolds and Gai Gherardi from l.a.Eyeworks, I got an early taste of the importance of design reaching out to many disciplines in culture – fashion, architecture, music, photography, food, literature and fine art. In other words, I developed a huge desire to make the world more beautiful by expressing myself through design.”

What sparked your passion in eyewear? “From the minute I started as a product manager, developing eyewear under the tutelage of great spirited eyewear designers, I knew this was for me. It was incredible that I could be part of a team that opens people’s eyes to their own radiance and beauty. I learned so much about the craft and technology of making eyewear. It was incredible to me in the early 90’s that you could take machinery and techniques from other industries, and experiment with them for the first time in our industry. Most importantly I became so passionate about eyewear because it seemed you could do so many things from a design perspective to make eyewer unique, yet everyone thought it was just two circles, or rectangles and a bridge with temples.”

Why and what do you think is the most original, spirited time period in fashion, that influences today’s eyewear industry? “I believe eyewear has the freedom to include many points of inspiration from many time periods. It’s a multitude of influences and influencers. The 70’s and 80’s glam story is timeless and elevating, while the chunky, funky 50’s nerd theme always makes people feel smart and edgy. I particularly like the attention to detail from the 30’s and 40’s that infuses an old English wallflower sexiness to the product.”

Please name three women and three men whom you think have profoundly influenced fashion? “Diana Vreeland; Miuccia Prada; Anna Wintour; Halston; Giorgio Armani and Calvin Klein.”

Nowadays, what and whom do you feel are the most important motivators in fashion? “Looking good and creating a unique persona that communicates who you are is the key motivator to embrace fashion.”

Where are your favourite travel destinations – and why? “Paris – love the 24-hour energy and the fairy tale feeling every time you walk up and down the historical streets. Of course, exquisite chocolate at every corner doesn’t hurt either. Milan – I love the juxtaposition of industrial grit and sheer fashion polish in the DNA of this city. The delicious food is accessible to everyone at every price point, fresh, modern and straightforward. People work to live in this city, rather than live to work like most U.S. cities. Italian culture is a clear reminder that living life to the fullest every single day is the best mantra.” www.kenmarkoptical.com JG