Creative spirits

Eyewear Ingenuity from Res/Rei

1st May 2013 On several occasions, I’ve been fortunate to have long chats with Italian designer Oliviero Zanon, who is an engaging conversationalist. He’s well versed on many subjects, and of course, one of his favourite topics is Res/Rei, the specialist eyewear design company he co-founded in 2011. Zanon shares with Eyestylist the background that led to the creation of Res/Rei.

“I went to university in London at Central Saint Martin College of Art and Design. I did a Foundation degree in Art and Design, and then a Products Design degree, graduating with first class honours. Central Saint Martin, in many ways, is different from any other University out there. Its uniqueness is in the “hands on” approach with things. The students are asked to do the whole design process, from research/idea to prototyping/manufacturing implementation. Getting your hands dirty building things in the workshop is an inspiring experience. After university, I started working as an industrial designer in London where I lived until 2010. I worked for IDEO London and Munich, an American consultancy that focus on Human Centered Design. This was a meaningful experience.”

“My encounter with the optic business was definitely by chance. The reason that led to the creation of Res/Rei is the will to work at close contact with artisans and producers. At one point in my design career, I was consulting mainly with blue chip clients, huge companies with thousands of employees. I couldn’t relate any more to the design process; it was too impersonal. I wanted a more human experience, and making frames was the answer. In this business you can control the whole process and interact with all the people involved – from manufacturers to final clients. It’s work but it feels like family…we are making so many new friends during our journey, and it is quite amazing.”

Res/Rei started in 2011 – in the midst of economic uncertainty. Did the economy ever make you “think twice” before starting the company? “Of course, the current economic crisis makes things more difficult, but it also creates opportunities, especially for new companies like ourselves. I know, this sounds like a cliché, but it is actually quite true. We are building our brand around firm ethical principles – like the sustainability of the manufacturing. Hopefully, most of our customers share the same vision with us. This gives us the opportunity to build a long lasting relationship with them.”

What inspires your designs? “Part of the inspiration comes from talking to other people that have meaningful experiences to share, mostly outside the optics business. Speaking of which, I’ve just spent a very inspiring day at the Milan Furniture Fair.”

Do you have a “profile” of a particular customer when you design? “Not really. We are not interested in following the stream. We are slowly building our unique identity. Of course, it takes time and you need to do lots of design interaction to become proficient as a brand, but eventually we will get there. It’s a different story with colours and shapes. On this matter,there is a clear distinction between men and women.”

Res/Rei is creating frames in acetate, metal/acetate and titanium – are there any other materials you would like to use? “Right now, we are experimenting with a new material nobody has used so far. But I can’t tell more about this – it’s top secret!” Photo of Oliviero Zanon exclusively for Eyestylist.com by Gilles Stüssi www.resrei.com JG

A new story, rooted in the past, at Christian Roth Eyewear

8th April 2013 I first started following Christian Roth when I got my first job in optical publishing back in 1999. In the ’80s and ’90s, this independent label had already played an impressive role in establishing sunglasses as a key accessory in the fashion arena, and their glamorous shades were worn by everyone who was anyone in fashion and music…memorably, because of the extraordinary images that ensued, Kate Moss, Agyness Dean, Lenny Kravitz, and many, many more.

Today Roth and Domège have new plans, both in eyewear and beyond, with new capsule collections including optical frames and sunglasses, and other Christian Roth accessories that they will unveil in 2014/15 via the website. As part of our special Vintage Edition, we asked them, in an exclusive interview, about their new project, the launch of their e-commerce destination and what the future holds for this iconic name in sunglass fashion.

“Our first overnight success was with Series A (above), our rimless frame in acetate and metal, designed so you could customise the lens shape with the colour of the frame. It was something very different back then, so that it became an overnight success and went straight on the cover of WWD. At that time, we were seeing our frames on all kinds of influential people from different walks of life, from Andy Warhol to Diana Ross, but it wasn’t endorsement, they were genuinely buying our frames and wanting to wear them because they loved them. It was incredible. It is our privilege to have lived in NYC in that period when celebrity culture was not such an issue.

“In the early 90s we joined the CFDA, thanks to Anna Wintour and Candy Pratts Price (the US Vogue team) who wanted the best eyewear designers on board as part of the Association; that was another important moment. We were the first to be a part of it, we were there at the right time!  And it offered so much – we were given the support of Michael Kors and Marc Jacobs as our ‘godfathers’. We began to work with these very big designers. We had a very inspiring working relationship with Karl Lagerfeld for the runway shows and collaborations with the most prolific and talented designers of our times continued for decades. We had our own studio in New York and we started to run private views of our collections. It was in a very cool place next door to a famous agency where we met a very young Claudia Schiffer.

“Today we have completely redefined the Christian Roth concept, our image, and collections – placing the spotlight on the best of “Christian Roth”. We have created a whole new life for the brand adding fun, excitement and the unexpected for eyewear aficionados. Our goal is to now connect through our crisp, conceptual and modern e-commerce destination – www.christian-roth.com –  with our many visionary fans from all over the world, and to reach more seekers of beautiful and unique eyewear. It is a very different, very personal site, where you can get behind the scenes.

“In 2013, the new frames will be availably via the site and through a few ambassador optical stores. Our first Block-On capsule collection includes Italian acetates and Japanese titanium. It is all about craftsmanship, high-quality and mixing geometric, precise, graphic and modern elements. We have worked in a very detailed way with special touches, mixing colour and chic transparent tones. Every frame is crafted by artisans to have its own identity and uniqueness, and we will renew our capsule every few months with new additions, another unusual concept in eyewear that we feel will be exciting for our online customers. On the site, we have added a small shopping area for rare vintage designs, both our own and others; it is something fun, for collectors and people who love the history of frames. The site also shows our support for OrphanAid Africa, something which touches our hearts.

“For the future we want Christian Roth to grow into a one-of-a-kind independent accessory brand with new categories which we will launch in 2014/15. We believe this is really something that will complement our frames and the spirit of the brand and appeal to the luxury market’s expectations. We have a great devotion to eyewear, and it is exciting for us to develop a new choice of accessories that will make sense for Christian Roth Eyewear”. CN

www.christian-roth.com

Turin’s unique eyewear company

1st March 2013 Home to the Fiat and an important industrial centre in north west Italy, Turin is not normally associated with eyewear. But Giovanni Vitaloni’s company has grown from a family business producing automobile parts and accessories to an eyewear design company, recognised for its pioneering spirit in terms of innovation, materials and uniquely Italian infusion of style and technical achievement. Working with Irene Chinaglia (head designer, above, centre) and Valerio Fava (pictured above, left), Vitaloni (above, right) is also a representative of the board of Anfao, the Italian association for producers of frames and sunglasses.

“Nico Design as a design company, has always been interested in product development and experimenting in colour, shapes, and materials. My family was manufacturing components originally so we used that experience in other sectors and applied it to eyewear; that is really how we began. I believe it is this direction that gave us a chance to create our own market in the frames’ business.

“For 10 years we have had our own showroom/store in Turin where all the collections are on display. It is like the heart of the two brands we have created, Vanni and Dérapage….we do special exhibitions here but it is also a place where our customers from the surrounding area can buy their frames direct from us.

“We have a design team in which I am involved, for the two labels. Personally I have developed my knowledge in terms of eyewear over the years, since I first started working with my dad. We opened our own factory in Belluno for metal frames and we had that for about 5 years, so I was able to learn a great deal about the production side.

“My aim has always been to have our own taste and identity – so we always start from a blank sheet of paper. Our process for developing the collections lasts in total about 9 months from start to finish. For example, we are developing our own colours with Mazzucchelli and in order to do that you need time.

What’s new at Vanni? ” We are launching new collections for the Hydra and Happy Days lines in Milan this month. We are also launching a new surface treatment on a metal frame called Mock-rock – we have created a unique matching  “Vanni” nail varnish in the same colour as the frame which is given with the frame as a gift. It’s beautiful!

“Vanni was born in 1991  – it is a line that has, and continues to be, based on colour concepts but our aim is always to find a balance between creativity, originality and wearability. We work very hard on our own acetate colours and unique patterns in collaboration with Mazzuchelli – this requires true dedication. www.vanniocchiali.com

“Our other brand  – Dérapage – is dedicated to frame innovation. The latest addition here is a special MoleCube hinge which is made in Italy in its entirety – this consists of three strips of steel held together by a square pivot. Their is no need for adjustments and no risk of it coming undone which makes it very, very practical and popular for those who want integrity in the design and true wearability.” www.derapage-eyewear.com CN

Eyewear With Innovative Engineering

1st February 2013 Lucas de Staël frames have always intrigued me – I’d seen the designs and liked the de Staël engineering concept, incorporating traditional frame making and fashion. So it was with pleasant anticipation that I made my way to de Staëls new workshop in the 19th arrondissement in Paris. Lucas was at the door to greet me, and I was escorted into a beehive of quiet activity where artisans craft the award-winning designs that Lucas so enjoys creating. His persona overflows with enthusiasm, passion and knowledge about frame making, and de Staël is involved in every step of each design and its production.

“Making fames like this takes a lot of time,” says de Staël, “and since we moved premises, there are fifteen people working here now. There is a lot of handwork involved in each frame – just one process can take up to an hour. Our team includes artists, engineers and architects. The main concept – and the main identification of our designs – is that there are no hinges; everything is in one piece. We make the parts inside our workshop, and use a special Swedish material that adds strength to our designs, without weight.”

In 2005, de Staël launched Undostrial – and in 2011 started his own collection – LDS – which won a Silmo d’Or in 2012. “The LDS collection is a more traditional range, with marquetry accents, plus goat skin and leather designs. We only use leather from the neck of the cow, so everything is supple and light.” Alexandre Lepeu designs the machines and tools that are used to create the frames. Lepeu and de Staël attended the School of Industrial Design in Paris, and met there as students. De Staël was fascinated with eyewear, and his first training with with Eye D’C in Marseille. “It was amazing,” recalls de Staël, “working right in front of the sea – it was so inspiring!”

With his recent Silmo d’Or award, and the vast new premises where the frames are all handmade with amazing design and construction ingenuity, de Staël is now ready to embrace the future. “We make only 4000 frames per year,” says de Staël, “we are a small producer, but now we are ready to grow. We are reaching world markets. Our best market is China; clients really like our designs. When I am quiet, I like to try different things. During the weekend and evenings I design, and work on new technical concepts. Creating the designs is even more interesting now!” www.undostrial.com www.lucasdestael.com JG