Creative spirits

Architectural Influences by Pascal Jaulent

1st January 2012 A timid winter sun is attempting to flow into the large windows that surround the spacious offices of Face à Face in Paris, where I meet Pascal Jaulent, President and Art Director. He greets me with a warm smile, much brighter than the reluctant winter sun. Jaulent is one of the founders who created Face à Face Eyewear in 1995 (Nadine Roth is Vice President and Marketing Director; designer Alyson Magee left to create her own company.) “What is so interesting about the past fifteen years, is the way that business has evolved. France, America and Canada are our most important markets, then Germany, and Great Britain, which is surprisingly close to the French outlook. Then there is Austria, with its tradition of frame manufacturing, and it has curiosity and enthusiasm – very different than the German market. They speak the same language, but it is a different culture. What is fascinating are the developing markets – Brazil, China, Russia.

“I have a financial background, and it has morphed into design, although I have always loved architecture. That is something that I shared with Alyson Magee. The basic principle of Face à Face has always been architecture, and now we also combine fashion with shapes and colours – it is very artful. When designing frames, it is important to pay attention to design, but also fashion trends. Frames are a personal object or accessory that has to be connected to fashion trends.

“Fashion moves quite rapidly and we have to adapt. We see a big difference in the acceptance of frames – people want more exclusive, artful designs. My work now is concentrated on the eyebrows as sculptures. I want to create bold and different. It’s a way to express and communicate the collection, and to stay avant garde. Women, especially, want to be à la mode, and up to date. My ideas come from everywhere. Sometimes I see a piece of furniture, like the Dali Sofa, which was the inspiration for the “Lips” sunglasses.”

Jaulent’s latest collection includes sunglasses in acetate and elegant fabrics, including silk and cotton. The Royal Stewart Collection, featuring the signature tartan of the House of Stewart, is a throwback to the 1970’s. “Tartan has rich decorative elements: it’s not new, but it’s timeless. We’ve had lots of global interest in this collection. I would also like to work in rubber and concrete (materials that relate to Jaulent’s inherent love of architecture) and use unexpected materials. I like to play with light, and use metallic inserts. Nature inspires me – leaves and petals.

“There are many more collections now than a few years ago. Frames are a personal expression, and the attention that people are paying to frames is a growing, positive trend. I want customers to say ‘this is beautiful, and my eyes smile’. I like to make people look beautiful in their glasses.” www.faceaface-paris.com JG

La Loop Accessories

1st December 2011 A chat with Elizabeth Faraut at la Loop is a genuine pleasure. We meet at SILMO, and the soft-spoken California based designer imparts her passion for eyewear through her elegant accessories. With her New York fashion background, Faraut brings a heady mix of style, business acumen and the creativity wrought by necessity to La Loop.  “When I started the company in 1998, it was because I had lost so many glasses, that I knew there had to be a better way to keep track of my frames. At that time, eyewear accessories were not even a category. Now they are viewed as a true accessory, and it’s been very interesting for me, because I do not come from the eyewear industry.

“My desire is to source materials that will ‘wow’ the customer and the buyer. How do I find these materials? I’m always travelling. I have Amber from Tibet for example, and my goal is to source natural materials from the planet – not manmade. I love to source unique materials and those that feel good – I close my eyes, and feel and savour the material.  If it doesn’t pass this test, it doesn’t become a La Loop. The desert is another inspiration. Gold plays into the desert theme, and I’m a ‘modern nomad’ – always searching and exploring, trying to find things that move me, and will move the customer . Pearls, pure fabrics, real tortoise, sterling silver, leather from a 5th generation mill in Northern Italy, Azurite from Brazil, and shells from New Zealand are among the natural materials included in the collections.”

For Elizabeth, creating a product that matters is very important. She wanted a design collaboration that included a marriage of form, function and fashion. She views each piece as a collector’s item – whether it expresses quiet sophistication, or dynamic, colourful fun. The Museum of Modern Art in New York City, as well as twelve other museums across America, has proclaimed La Loop an invention. The hinges have patented technology, and each item is handmade in America. La Loop wearers include a long list of celebrities, working professionals, fashion followers, and costume designers. “My dream, says Faraut, “is to continue to explore, to keep a personal connection to customers through my designs, and be that ‘modern nomad’. So far, it’s been a wonderful journey.” www.laloop.com La Loop products are available in Paris at Marc Le Bihan www.marclebihan.fr JG