Design + Inspiration

Rigards in Paris

Handmade eyewear, of our time: Patinated Copper with Aluminum Magnesium

Ti Kwa’s commitment to design innovation is increasingly recognised across the industry and in the upper echelons of the optical retailing community and he continues to quietly push the boundaries in his work in materials, textures and specialist production techniques, with resounding individuality and an unmistakable style.

This September, his label RIGARDS explores an exceptional copper material finish with a gently-toned verdigris in a model designed for avant-garde fashion designer Ziggy Chen (RG1911CU), based on an existing “small and narrow” shape in the collection that has come to be known as the ‘Mad Scientist’.

The finish, a tribute to Bronze Age ritual vessels and their weathered slightly mottled greenish tones, appears in a unique way in all the models as the copper takes the patina finish differently from frame to frame.

RIGARDS: a new edition of the ‘Mad Scientist’

“We added an interchangeable clip-on,” explains the designer. “Made from ultralight aluminum-magnesium — it locks onto the frame front and converts the glasses from optical frame to sunglasses. Two small side holes hold an eyeglass chain, allowing the sun-clip to double as jewellery.” Both the glasses and the clip-on can be fitted with lenses through built-in openings, part of RIGARDS’ exclusive screwless spring-hinge mechanism designed to ensure the product is both aesthetically pleasing and maintenance-free.

The interchangeable clip-on

RIGARDS (from Hong Kong) was first launched in 2012, and exhibited their handcrafted buffalo horn eyewear months later at SILMO, the Paris eyewear fair (see our first story in 2012 at https://www.eyestylist.com/2012/11/rg0006/ ). Designer Ti Kwa has a refreshingly different perspective on design and has gradually opened eyes to the possibilities in creating exclusive artisan pieces with a distinctive modern approach to production techniques and eyewear aesthetics. RIGARDS exhibits at SILMO (Paris) and Paris Fashion Week. Don’t miss this collection:  https://rigards.com CN

Happy 10th Anniversary! Hall of Frames Zurich

Hall of Frames Zurich returns to its roots – the historical and refurbished location Papiersaal – that was originally an ageing paper factory – to celebrate the  10th anniversary of the show. Organiser Nathanael Wenger reflected: “During the years, opticians all over Switzerland have supported our event, even during different moves inside the city. The event grew slowly, but now we have over forty independent brands, some whom have been with us since the beginning.”

Zurich Papiersaal

Wenger is particularly delighted that more and more Swiss designers have joined the show. Some are Newcomers – Baselli, Fassungswerk, Specs Lab and Nirvan Javan – while other brands are well established and include Götti, Didier Voirol, Einstoffen, and Von Arkel. “We are proud that these companies show their collections at Hall of Frames Zurich along with many other well-known labels,” said Wenger.

Koali by Morel

The two-day event will showcase unique eyewear brands featuring artisan quality, creative imaginations, and enticing styling. Koali by Morel Lunettes introduces stunning new optical and sun designs (above photo) in a collection that is rich in beautiful colourations and shapes. www.morel-france.com

Sun Cover by Any Di

German designer Anne Dickhardt creates fabulous bags…and innovative, fun and useful eyeglasses cases (above) in elegant natural materials, with a welcoming sense of humour. www.any-di.com

Leven by Blackfin

Blackfin’s latest collection is highlighted with new craftsmanship processes and stylistic features. A unique frame structure reflects masterful technology with Leven BF850 – an innovation that anchors the beta titanium bridge to the titanium rims. www.blackfin.eu

Roach by Vinylize

Hungarian brand Vinylize introduces sleek geometric shapes in octagonal, square and round variations. The Vinylize signature vinyl record exterior on Roach (above) is individualised with graceful sculpted temples. Handcrafted in Budapest. www.vinylize.com

Mark the dates – now! 7th and 8th October at Papeiersaal in Zurich for the 10th anniversary celebrations of Hall of Frames Zurich. Seize the moment and experience skilfully gifted eyewear collections – from long-time favourites – as well as new and talented independent designers. www.hallofframes.ch  JG

 

 

Centennial celebration: Kirk Family Optics

In nineteen-nineteen, two brothers – Sidney and Percy Kirk – laid the foundation for a century of optical innovations and strategies that still inspires around the world today. The mantle is now carried with Jason and Karen Kirk (above) at the helm, as the Kirk dynasty celebrates its 100th anniversary. “This is an amazing moment; having seen everything that my grandfather achieved, and grown up in my parent’s practice, Karen and I are very proud to learn from the past to drive the future. This is about looking forward, as like the previous generations, we try to contribute to the next century of optics,” said Jason.

The Kirk Brothers: The man standing on the far right in the dark jacket is Percy Kirk; and the man sitting on the far right in the dark jacket is Sidney Kirk, Jason’s grandfather

Karen reflected on the influence of Sidney and Percy: “It is easy to overlook how innovative the Kirk Brothers were as a company. Things that seem normal to us today were visionary in the 1920’s. For example: Kirk Brothers were the first to deliver glasses to opticians by motorbike courier to offer a better, faster service.” Jason and Karen will launch the Centena Collection at SILMO – celebrating the one-hundred year history, and they are now firmly focused on future development programmes. The frames are handcrafted in France with special Italian acrylic – a very light, yet strong durable material. The new designs are chunky and bold in 10mm acrylic, but featherweight and wonderfully comfortable.

Anna from The Spectrum Collection by Kirk Kirk

Colour is always imaginative in Kirk & Kirk designs – and ten vibrant colourations bring additional beauty and character to the Centena Collection.With their innovative eyewear approach, and exploration of shapes, colours and materials, Sidney and Percy Kirk would indeed be very proud of the continuing family tradition.

Luminous and lightweight: Anna in Chocolate-Blue

At SILMO Paris, 28th September-1st October, Jason and Karen will present Centena designs, alongside the Kaleidoscope, Spectrum and sunglass collections. Warmest congratulations to Kirk & Kirk on their exceptional and memorable centennial anniversary. www.kirkandkirk.com JG

 

Silmo 2018: quality with finesse

The run-up to the international shows in Paris has begun. Eyewear designers exhibit at Silmo, Paris at the end of the month, an international trade fair that brings together some of the freshest new designers and start-ups as well as iconic established eyewear companies.

For trends, our previews point to a fastidious focus on excellence and finesse in all details of frame designs. Acetate and metal collections appear to be equally well represented, although some designers refer to an increase in metal for 2019. These designs, while they are more and more sinuous and shapely, they tend to come in a wide variety of shapes, with oversized being just as popular as more reduced proportions.

Highlights in our previews include L.G.R, the Italian luxury brand by Luca Gnecchi Ruscone, who has some particularly strong new designs in metal and for Silmo, the special focus is on the development of the optical collection for the season ahead. An avant-garde direction is noted with careful attention paid to minimalist lines and metal colorations, with the introduction of a delicate, and slightly exotic copper finish. As trends go, it’s our favourite use of the colour in eyewear so far. www.lgrworld.com Pictured above: Tuareg in copper by L.G.R

Silk from Claire Goldsmith
Dean by Claire Goldsmith

At Claire Goldsmith, the latest CG Legacy releases take on a new direction by utilising the properties of stainless steel combined with Mazzucchelli acetate. Model Dean will be amongst the collections on show in Paris, “a solid light tint allows customers to make the choice of wearing the design either as a sunglass or an optical,” says the designer.

The light tint mirrors some of Goldsmith’s first ever ‘sun specs’ and the original glass lenses, which make a great addition to a wardrobe in the winter months. The Goldsmith stand will also feature OG Decades during the Paris fair, a collection of era-defining designs that represent the traditional values of the brand, combining that with a fresh and dynamic twist. www.clairegoldsmith.com / www.olivergoldsmith.com

Eskimo Collection by DELIRIOUS Eyewear

An acutely design-focused buffalo horn collection from Delirious Eyewear (Milan) balances the natural colour effects of a classically luxurious material with a beautiful individuality and subtlety. This young award-winning artisan label – who also produce in other materials including metal, is moving in to the top optical boutiques worldwide, as one of the hottest emerging labels from Italy. More information at www.deliriouseyewear.com

Frame Chain: a leader in fashionable eyewear accessories

Frame Chain – from the UK – always has something new and innovative and their latest chains are chic and delicate – with minute jewellery details such as freshwater pearls and Swarovski crystals. The female design duo – Vanessa Harrington and Ann-Margret Kearney – continue to shake up the eyewear accessories side of things across the fashion and optics industries (their collections are now in the top fashion stores worldwide) with designs that perfectly blend practicality and statement style. Meet this fabulous team at the fair and find out more about the chains at www.framechain.co.uk

MOREL sunglasses: Koali 20038K

A series of fresh collections by the Jura-based company MOREL – including their historic 1880 range, will highlight traditional French eyewear production at the Silmo exhibition in 2018. KOALI – the nature-inspired collection by MOREL, will release several new designs including this dramatic modified cat eye, sunglass style 20038K. Pink, gold and black are the tones highlighted in these designs which play with contrast and design accents behind the lens. Visit www.morel-france.com

TOSKA by Laura Imami from the UK

Laura Imami, from the UK, exhibits at the fair in Paris for the first time. Her exclusive designs, which are made in Northern Italy, are, this season, inspired by architecture. Model Toska, produced in 8mm Mazzucchelli acetate, demonstrates a bold sculptural style with a faceted front, highlighted in a stunning colour mix. Other innovative designs require that the lenses are glazed into the front of the frame. Laura’s creative collection is currently available at Schuller Opticians in the UK where she is based, and at selected stores in Copenhagen and Berlin. www.lauraimami.com

Watch this space for exclusive Silmo updates / Silmo Paris takes place from 28th September 2018 to 1st October 2018. www.silmoparis.com  CN

 

Autumn Harvest

September is the harbinger of a new season –  a harvest of back-to-school, cultural events…and the latest eyewear creations. Captivating shapes, in a host of intriguing colours – from subtle to sizzling – in technically advanced materials, ensure that eyewear for autumn is dynamic and stylish. ROLF Spectacles introduces a stunning new “Twist” design from their Evolved Collection (above image). Razor-thin sliced end-grained wood veneers are carefully selected and combined with each other. Crosscutting the tree trunk rather than cutting it lengthwise obtains the unique characteristics of the frame. ROLF’S individualistic collection will be presented at SILMO Paris 28th September-1st October. www.rolf-spectacles.com

VOLTE FACE Parisian Chic by JF Rey

JF Rey’s Parisian chic VOLTE FACE collection highlights exclusive Mazzucchelli acetate designs in beautiful patterns and colour palettes that are enriched with glittery accents. www.volteface.com

Jeremy Tarian stunning acetate creations featuring colourations used in his ceramics

The autumn harvest is abundant with original concepts. Jeremy Tarian launches his superlative eyewear collection that unites his consuming passion for creation, and the memories and expertise of a childhood pleasure – working with clay. His striking designs are handcrafted in acetate in glorious colours reflecting the ceramic work. See the complete elegant, luxurious collection at SILMO Paris 28th September – 1st October. www:jeremytarian.com

Animal kingdom: Rose et la Roue by Anna-Karin Karlsson

Anna-Karin Karlsson’s slinky, seductive panther has a new look this season, artfully perched on a beautifully silhouetted voluminous shape in acetate. 24K gold plated accents and the graceful panther shimmering in Swarovski crystals, add to the glamour of Rose et la Roue. www.annakarinkarlsson.com

Nights on the town: Berghain by KBL

Berlin’s exclusive nightclub the Berghain – is the inspiration for the strikingly chic sunglasses by KBL. The nightclub located in a former power station. is famous for its long queues…and  powerful security. Break the deadlock in KBL’s distinguished, dashing design – the Berghain. www.kbleyewear.com

Danish heritage: Daisy from Flowers of Denmark by Fleye Copenhagen

Flowers of Denmark by Fleye Copenhagen pays tribute to Danish heritage with its beautiful collection inspired by Flora Danica – an iconic collection of plants from the 18th Century. Daisy is portrayed in subtle acetate patterns with shapely graphics. www:fleye.dk JG