Design & Inspiration

Silmo 2024: energy, bold design, and intriguing innovation

Despite economic challenges around the world, the Silmo eyewear experience of 2024 felt optimistic, creative and full of energy, with a huge mash up of design innovations, tech ideas and start-ups and small artisan collections showing alongside iconic and well-established luxury and fashion eyewear brands 

A remarkable level of fine-tuning of the details in the luxury collections. A positively energetic and experimental buzz from young and new designers from different sides of the globe. And a particularly strong representation of tech companies and smart glasses products. These were just some of the notable areas which were highlighted at the Silmo 2024 event.

During the next months we will explore particular colour stories, innovations and new design directions we observed at the Paris show. Overall, the event was hugely popular amongst those who exhibited and those attending, thanks to the ever evolving breadth of design, craft expertise, material innovation and technology relating to eyewear on show there, alongside the incredible experiences and business opportunities for the industry’s leading and emerging designers to connect with influential buyers from around the world, collaborating to shape the future. Above: The Italian designer Cleto Munari showed his eponymous eyewear collection at Silmo for the second time – pictured, Ave Del Paraiso, produced from a 14mm thick acetate plate, the frame is created using two techniques for carving the material. The new releases on the Cleto Munari stand also included ‘Drop Drop Drop’, an acetate capsule with bold colours and 3-dimensional shapes featuring models Victor and Ernest and a handmade precious metal collection with exquisite signature details and jewellery embellishments.

Lafont Paris – model Rimini 4071

Many new models were released in the collection at Lafont Paris at Silmo: as well as a second edition frame produced in collaboration with Maison Sekimoto – named “Hanabi”, Lafont Paris also won a Silmo D’Or in the Children’s category, for a frame called Roudoudou, designed specifically for premature infants. The frame has been developed to meet the optical and morphological needs of this group and offers a bespoke size and geometry.

Lafont Paris – Roudoudou won the Silmo D’Or in the children’s category

The Lafont Paris collection also saw the addition of frames which served up gorgeous colour palettes, fresh gradients and a wide selection of vintage and modern inspiration for silhouettes, material combinations and exclusive details. www.lafont.com

“Brimming with bravado”: the graphic Duffle frame by l.a.Eyeworks – in carmine – a shade or red that is popular this season – as worn by Gai Gherardi at the event

l.a. Eyeworks showed a new collection popping with colour, vintage flavours and design energy. They described the temple seen here on their model Duffle as an extravagant nod to l.a.Eyeworks’ signature frog toe temple tip. The custom inlay appears on a variety of models in a contrast colour to the main frame. Model Duffle – in acetate with stainless steel temples – is one of those designs, like sister frame Totes – that feels chunky and out there for the season whilst being suitably balanced, lightweight and comfortable for all-day-long wear – the designer, Gai Gherardi was wearing it herself! The collection also featured faceted acetate designs with gorgeous gradient tones with eccentric names such as “bambi” and “rosewater brownie”. www.laeyeworks.com

Even Realities: “smarter smart glasses” – the content floats in your field of vision

Even Realities showed their smart glasses concept at Silmo 2024 for the first time. The brand has recently launched the G1 Digital Glasses which integrate advanced digital features into everyday frames designed to fit the face and feel comfortable and easy on the face. With the G1, they aimed to bridge the gap between smart glasses that are bulky and over-featured and AI companions that lack practical functionality for everyday use. We trialled the product and felt excited both by the ease of the functionality and the opportunities it will open in many different work places and specific activities. Find out more in our feature prior to Silmo: https://www.eyestylist.com/2024/07/smart-glasses-even-realities-and-g1-digital-panto-glasses/

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Apex at MOVITRA

MOVITRA continues to deliver high-tech luxury in a collection that takes the combination of quality, comfort and design excellence in each product very seriously. The new collection which features Apex, a cutting-edge series in titanium, is particularly eye-catching for the technical details developed in each product and the unerring attention to detail, from the Motus patented closing system to small design features such as a two-piece titanium bridge with a polished and brushed finish. www.movitra.it

Rewind – original patterned acetates are a special feature in this Italian collection

In the start-up area, we were able to talk to the creatives at several emerging and new eyewear brands including Rewind (Italy – www.rewindeyewear.com), Otro Eyewear (Brazil – www.otro.com.br), Maggio Eyewear (France – www.maggiojulia.com), Maison Lune (France – https://www.maison-lune.fr) and BookArt (New York/Japan – https://bookartjewelry-int.com). All these examples show a dedication to quality craftsmanship and design individuality and we were taken by their use of colour and enthusiasm for expressive and individualistic design work.

BookArt – Cry Cry Gold was nominated for a Silmo D’Or: the jewellery style frame is delicate and beautifully crafted

We met Yuki Gotanda, the designer behind BookArt, the Japanese brand producing their jewellery oriented frames in Sabae (Japan). Each glass crystal teardrop is hand-set with the same precision as a diamond. Gotanda is a former graphic designer and launched BookArt in 2017. BookArt also showed us the frame called Fringe which features elegant gold chain tassels on the end tips.

The international optics and eyewear trade fair, Silmo Paris will take place from 26th to 29th September in 2025. Find more trends information and brand highlights from the show on Eyestylist in the weeks ahead! www.silmoparis.com

This feature was written by Clodagh Norton at Eyestylist.com. Copyright applies.

Sagaboi catwalk features Peoples from Barbados capsule

Linda Farrow x Peoples from Barbados capsule worn by models on Sagaboi catwalk

At London Fashion Week, the SAGABOI catwalk provided Caribbean inspiration in “Out and Bad”, a new collection which among other themes drew energy from the vibrant traditions of carnival. The models wore Peoples from Barbados capsule sunglasses created as a capsule with Linda Farrow, and a perfect compliment with its Bajan origins. Peoples from Barbados was founded in Barbados by optometrist and Eye Q Stylist store owner, Alicia Hartman.  Above: Sagaboi ‘Out and Bad’ September 2024 at London Fashion Week – photography credit / Michael Mapp

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Sagaboi SS25 – photography by Jack Hall BFA.COM

The Linda Farrow x Peoples from Barbados Edition is a limited run of just 150 custom-made sunglasses/blue light blocking glasses available in three beautiful Bajan inspired colours of sorrel caramel and emerald green. All images by kind permission of Sagaboi. For more information visit https://peoplesfrombarbados.com

Silmo 2024 launch: RES/REI

The Italian company says its new collection is its most groundbreaking to date

Italian label RES/REI is launching a collection at SILMO 2024, which they describe as their most daring yet. Modernity meets timeless elegance in frames which celebrate a bold and creative aesthetic. Daring colour contrasts and Art-Deco-inspired forms are particularly eye-catching, as each frame is seen as a small work of art and study in colour.

Highlights include model Bloom, above, part of the nature-inspired Flowers Collection. The Flowers develop the theme of the inside-out, one frame inside the other. Two or three acetates with contrasting colours are combined to achieve the curious aesthetic. The colours and soft curves closely follow the inspiration of a blooming spring, filled with flowers. The different acetates combine and overlap with each other like the petals of an exotic flower. Above: model Bloom by RES/REI – a refined ombre or gradient effect in acetate; below, model Flora, also part of the iconic Flowers Collection – both frames represent the most innovative designs in this collection

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Model Elite by RES/REI

The men’s style model Elite is part of the Gentlemen collection, conceived to suit the contemporary man. The frame is available in six elegant combination colours – a specialty at RES/REI including the green /grey pictured as well as a lovely blue havana / slate blue. The collection can be viewed in the SILMO Paris fair today. Find out more www.resrei.com

Silmo Paris Preview: Ecosystem by NINA MÛR

A collection which celebrates diversity and inclusion will be unveiled by the independent eyewear label at Silmo 2024 – the collection is particularly remarkable for a new innovation: the 3D printed resin temples

Madrid’s independent eyewear brand, NINA MÛR, will launch the new collection, “Ecosystem” at the Paris fair this Friday. Inspired by diversity and inclusion, this fresh and colourful collection is born from an idea about the beauty of our differences and the power of the social ecosystem we all build together. Each piece has been created with the goal of reflecting the richness and diversity of society in eyewear which symbolises inclusion, showcasing that differences make human beings stronger, and imperfections make us beautiful. Above: model wears the new Juno sunglasses by NINA MÛR – a curved plywood front with a round eye shape

Juno sunglasses by NINA MÛR

Basically, each model in the “Ecosystem” collection combines traditional craftsmanship with sustainable and innovative production techniques. Naturally, the finishing of each pair of glasses and sunglasses has been achieved by meticulously hand-carving organic shapes into the plywood and then filling them with eco-friendly resins with a carefully curated colour palette created specifically for this line. This artisanal process gives each pair of glasses spontaneity and uniqueness, enriching the collection as a whole.

Ecosystem glasses and sunglasses feature an original decoration in eco-friendly resin

In addition, NINA MÛR has also developed new innovative 3D-printed resin temples for these models. These temples, featuring an ergonomic and futuristic rounded design, give the glasses a particular, idiosyncratic style. Available in pastel colours, they are durable and light whilst offering a personalized fit for exceptional comfort, seamlessly blending style and functionality.

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Furthermore, the collection includes a variety of shapes, colours, and styles, designed to suit all personalities and face shapes. From bold silhouettes to more subtle and elegant options, “Ecosystem” celebrates individuality in all its forms. Each design is named after real people, emphasizing the concept of a social ecosystem where every individual is an essential and unique piece of the whole.

Hermes by NINA MÛR – above, view of the new 3D-printed resin temple

With “Ecosystem,” the brand is launching a global campaign to raise awareness about the importance of embracing and celebrating our differences. Through collaborations with influencers and ambassadors from diverse communities, NINA MÛR will amplify this message of unity and diversity. The “Ecosystem” collection will be available from 15th October 2024, in national and international boutique optical stores. Find out more at www.ninamur.com

Silmo Paris Preview: Danielle Rattray

The Scottish designer was inspired by the spirit of the 1960s for new directions in a collection which pursues musical inspiration to create a cool eyewear vibe 

Charm, individuality and an inimitable sense of British fashion edge, the eyewear collection by Danielle Rattray infuses very wearable design with a special attention to craftsmanship and fine finishing in details such as angles and bevels. Danielle told Eyestylist this week: “My 2024/25 design direction builds on the confident lines and colour signatures I love from my early collections, but now with some evolution towards curves and subtlety in the silhouettes. While the 23/24 collection came from a place more inspired by British rock ’n roll, the 24/25 spirit brings inspiration from musical eras I love from a little earlier. The 1960’s. Artists like Marianne Faithful and Nico. Strong, talented women who made their marks in a beautiful, stylish way. Hedy, Bibi, Riv all carry a new DNA and I am really excited about the new styles for 2025 too!”

Among the new elements highlighted is the introduction of the colour, Smoke / Jura in France. This is a tribute to the eyewear culture of the Rhone Alpes and Haut Jura, combining a warm yellow lens representing the iconic tones of the Haut Jura with a soft smoke 8mm acetate, representing the granite streets of my hometown Aberdeen, a dedication from Scotland to France. Above: model Jean by Danielle Rattray – photography by Paulina Pellowska

Danielle Rattray – model Jean has been handcrafted with bevels and angles – visible across the design

The fine angular shape Jean – in the sunglasses collection – has evolved from a mix of inspirations from eyewear of past eras  with modern international culture. The new Smoke / Jura is a feature of this model, which also comes in Ink blue / Navy and Polished Black / Copper.

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Danielle Rattray: the Hedy model comes in Smoke / Jura

Model Hedy represents what is currently a trending oval shape generally in eyewear this season: Rattray’s interpretation is fresh and refined with a flattering shape and a little touch of genuine design quality that you can feel as soon as the frame is in your hands. The colours, including the pure black version, are chic and individual, and bring out the qualities of the fine acetate materials. For more information about Daniel Rattray read our interview with the designer at https://www.eyestylist.com/2023/05/one-to-watch-danielle-rattray-eyewear-designer/

For more information about the collection: www.daniellerattray.com