Design + Inspiration

Men’s Eyewear – The Designer Approach

Tom Stevens Eyewear The Netherlands

26th February 2013 Tom Stevens reflects on “Men’s Eyewear – The Designer Approach”

Do you have a ‘role model’ when you design?  “Sometimes I use my dad’s face to work on a design. Of course, you always think about measurements, and fitting that is typical for male faces. I usually start drawing from an image/shape in my mind. Sometimes I fine tune a design on my father’s face.”

What is your perspective on colour, shape and material? “Taste is something different for everybody. I think a frame should complement/complete the face. I do prefer somewhat rounder shapes for men, instead of the very sharp-edged, angular frames. Regarding colours, I think a male frame should make a statement. If the design is good, many colours could fit. i prefer using only one colour on a design. If you use more, for example, two-tone, it is very important that the colours complement each other very well, otherwise it could totally destroy a good design. I love titanium designs for men in basic colours, but also fashion colours, like our neon orange model Lee.” (Below – inspired by Dutch singer  Lee Towers, from the 1980’s, who is also well known for his frames).

 

Lee in vivid orange by Tom Stevens
Lee in vivid orange by Tom Stevens

Nowadays, are men more experimental with eyewear? “Yes, I can see that more and more men like to wear a statement frame. Now it is more common to wear fashionable designs instead of very basic frames. Men are not afraid to wear a frame that stands out somewhat, and men like to distinguish themselves. I like this tendency – it’s fun!” www.stevenseyewear.com JG

 

 

Eyewear re-imagined

30th January 2013 ‘opti’ – the German trade show, where I have been this weekend, searching out new trends  – has highlighted again that the independent eyewear designers are setting the bar very high when it comes to quality, comfort and achievements in design and fashion styling. There is an extraordinary attention to minutiae – for comfort and aesthetics – and respect for time-honoured techniques in many of the leading creative collections. Here is a first taste of what is coming…our observations on the individual trends and directions will follow in the weeks ahead.

Above, Pierre Eyewear’s collection for 2013 combines French old-school glamour re-imagined in exciting colours and inventive shapes. Catch a glimpse, if you can, of Pierre’s new campaign images which are a discovery in themselves.  www.pierre-eyewear.com

Feb 31st
FEB31st with RIVA1920

Italian wood label FEB31st launched a collaborative project with Riva 1920 this weekend in Munich. The frames in the edition are made from ancient kauri wood from New Zealand which has been preserved underground for 48000 years. Stefano Cipriani explained to me that the company has developed their own techniques to be able to create the frames in this exceptional natural material which has a unique texture, colour and smell. www.feb31st.it

L.G.R. Sunglasses
L.G.R. Sunglasses

Luca Gnecci Ruscone, Founder of L.G.R. showed us their elegant optical collection at the Munich show, and their growing sunglasses collection which featured this handsome patterned piece. He also gave me a sneak peak of a wonderful new L.G.R. Limited Edition – more on that coming up.  www.lgr-sunglasses.com 

Photography above by Eyestylist.com.

For details on opti, the Munich trade show, visit www.opti-munich.com  CN

 

Ready for Resort!

Colourful Frames for Sunny Climes

29th December 2012 When the temperatures dip to zero, resort fashions look so tempting…..so do sunglasses that look as if they were especially created for the beach and poolside. I’ve come across two lovely styles that are fun, colourful, and perfect for warmer climes and sunny days. Sheriff and Cherry’s nautically inspired Mediterranean blue acetate frames (above style 8766) with blue lenses are spiked with white trim on the temple ends, and an anchor and star motif, handmade in their Croatian workshop. www.sheriffandcherry.com

Beautiful colourations by Andy Wolf
Beautiful colourations by Andy Wolf

 

Both sea and sky tones are featured in Summazeit (above) by Andy Wolf. Luminous acetate in tones of turquoise, violet, yellow and soft pink highlight the round shape. Handcrafted in Austria, the turquoise lenses are stunning! www.andy-wolf.com JG

Trend watch: grainy effects, textures, wood-look

I have been looking at the beautiful grainy effects and natural finishes and textures in eyewear. Not only are we seeing more and more frames made from horn and wood where the natural colouring, texture and natural grains in the material are clearly visible, but there are also more and more wood-look and marbled acetate styles on offer, that have grainy surfaces or striated colouring….all of which are very elegant and show remarkable attention to the end result.

Examples pictured here include the natural horn frame (below) by the Hong Kong based label Rigards – the textured surface is very beautiful, and reminds me of early 15th or 16th handmade spectacles but the Rigard shapes are interesting and often wacky for a 21st century interpretation. www.rigards.com

Horn spectacles by Rigards

The Carter Bond frames (examples top and below), designed by Jono Hennessy, have the warmth and feel of wood to the point where I was sure it was wood; I have a selection of these sitting on my desk and everyone keeps commenting on how cool the matt wood frames are. But I have been put right: “These frames are acetate. It is a technique Jono has developed to give that natural wood look; the frames are fully adjustable, so they adjust and glaze exactly the same as another acetate frame.” Impressive! Designed by Jono Hennessy in Australia. www.carterbond.com

Carter Bond 9039

I am also very taken with the subtle textures inside smooth acetate. The white example from Bologna’s Blue Magic Eye (top image, centre frame, model BME V3107) shows a gentle pattern that is similar to that of the smooth inside of an oyster shell, coloured in a pure striated snow white and combined with a silver metal detail on the arms. It is a very chic design, robust, with a clever pairing of the materials. www.bluemagiceye.com CN

 

Gift ideas

L.I. Sounder Original American Goods, Leather Shade Anchors

28th November 2012 One of these would make a very cool present. Made by hand in New England using traditional techniques, these straps are made to last, and the leather is said to age beautifully. They look very smart with a strong sunglass style such as a classic aviator, and according to Akram Husseini who offers them at his store, Klar, they look particularly good with a Randolph Engineering aviator, a Garrett Leight Speedway or L.G.R.’s acetate Casablanca which he wears himself. They work with spectacles too.

Available from Klar, Schulstraße 4, 64283 Darmstadt, Germany (www.klar-augenoptik.de); for additional stockists visit www.lisounder.com CN