Design + Inspiration

With the Paris fair taking place at the end of this month, independent brands are ready and waiting to present new collections with a fresh orientation for 2024. Expect a showcase of truly unique products, sustainable collections, 3D printed frames as well as traditional, handmade and iconic eyewear design.

Rich craftsmanship, innovation, and a real exploration of frame materials: the Silmo Paris fair is known as a launch pad for new creative talent, as well as offering a mind-blowing showcase of established fine eyewear brands and small independent labels that have successfully found their niche on the eyewear scene. This year’s event is fast approaching, and promises more of the same quality, ingenuity, and imagination from creatives in the sector from all around the world – and the seasonal unveiling of new colour palettes, shapes and eyewear directions that will be significant in the months to come and into 2024.

Already, in line with some of the most eye-catching catwalk trends, the variety in the colour stories look very promising, with plenty more bright and joyful colour ideas heading our way alongside a wearable timeless natural toned palette that customers have grown to love (natural greens, browns and “earthy” hues, look for burnt red, sienna and some refined organic palettes and rich golden tones).

The brands which hold a reputation for innovating and exploring materials with particular originality will bring new fresh proposals to Silmo, in line with the sustainable direction across the fashion industry as a whole and directions in the design world. Above: VAVA will launch a new supremely light aluminium series at Silmo. Made in Italy, the rims have been reduced dramatically as has the size of the hinge. The oversized round eye shape  – completely flat on top – creates a unique appearance – www.vaveyewear.com  

Ørgreen Optics will introduce several new and daring frames into its repertoire, where state-of-the-art materials and original colour palettes create a cutting-edge offer of comfortable and contemporary styles in acetate, 3D printed polyamide, titanium and stainless steel. They will include the daring Plus One frame (above) in the Imaginary Lines collection which takes inspiration from the classic Pilot tear drop sunglasses, infusing it with a bold and sporty twist. What sets Plus One apart are its discreet 3D printed side shields. The 3D printing technology ensures a seamless integration,  accentuating the frame’s sleek profile while providing essential functionality.  www.orgreenoptics.com

In many of the highest quality collections, detailing has become supremely refined, using techniques that draw parallels with jewellery design, and ideas for decorations and special effects that are surprising, exquisitely crafted and often remarkably finished and “finessed”.

Gotti Switzerland will show new styles across its collections, including acetate frames where colour is a principal story. The frame combine an aesthetic where soft lines and highly polished surfaces fuse with playful colours which include fuchsia red, earthy caramel brown and soft sea grass green. The Swiss brand will also present a new titanium collection at the Paris fair. www.gotti.ch

Rolf Spectacles told Eyestylist they have multiple new products launching at Silmo. Highlights will include the new Wire collection, which promises a fascinating melding together of functionality and style in frames that offer an artistic look that feels fresh and slightly daring with colour. Among the other launches at ROLF, the stonewashed colours in graphite and jade are likely to be a talking point in the Substance collection, ROLF’s award-winning sustainable 3D printed collection, which goes from strength to strength. www.rolf-spectacles.com

For Silmo, FACE A FACE told Eyestylist they will release a new collection which builds on the exploration of the Memphis movement and a connection to contemporary Japanese design and designers such as Issey Miyake and Kengo Kuma. Two-tone model Kyoto (above) is inspired by Shiro Kuramata’s iconic armchair with a cylindrical backrest (“Sofa with Arms”). The creative spirit of the spectacles is emphasized by the geometric purity of the cylinder, which serves as both endpiece and temple. This iconic design is magnified by angular shapes that create a bold and poetic contrast. Model Pleats2 in this collection is inspired by Issey Miyake and the origami pleats used by the designer. A three-tone acetate model, the design combines two shapes – hexagonal and rectangular – the frame features bold two toned lines which replicate Miyake’s signature pleats in the Pleats Please collection. www.faceaface-paris.com

French label J.F.REY is launching a new line of robust, lightweight, and aesthetically sophisticated optical frames for men. Increasingly ambitious in the technical design, the line is performance-oriented, combining creative construction, rich aesthetics, and quality manufacturing for a top-of-the-range product. Each one has a titanium front, stainless steel temples, carbon or glass fibre details and acetate end tips. www.jfrey.fr

Model Haskell is an example of what to expect from newcomer Vada Eyes, the Austin brand we have followed these last years (see https://www.eyestylist.com/2021/12/trance-by-vada-eyes-retrofuturistic-optimism/ ). Their jewellery expertise and commitment to Japanese production – mixed with a very infectious energy, positivity and individuality is sure to propel them into the European eyewear scene with success and well deserved notoriety – right away. For more information about Vada Eyes, visit www.vadajewelry.com

Silmo Paris – the international eyewear and optics fair – takes place from 29th September to 2nd October 2023 at Paris Nord Villepinte. This year, the fair will offer an array of activities, events and gatherings, including the popular Trends Forum, the Silmo Academy, the Silmo d’Or Awards – with an awards presentation event outside the Halls on the evening of Saturday 30th September  – and the IOA Award, a prize which honours an optician for their high level of professionalism. For further details and registration visit  www.silmoparis.com Watch our Eyestylist Design + Inspiration page for the next weeks for more updates and previews for the Paris show!

An Eyestylist Exclusive written by Clodagh Norton – As Autumn approaches, the Japanese accessories label has added to their stylish and functional collection with a range of chains and cases, including chic sustainable Ultrasuede pouches

Eyewear accessories have emerged as a must-have fashion item, adding an extra touch of personalisation, unique style and personality to an outfit, while having a function to protect and keep frames in easy reach. Japanese label Diffuser Tokyo remains one of few labels achieving a fusion of quality and originality in their designs, as well as providing a wide variety of accessories – from cases to luxury chains – in interesting materials and finishes. The chain designs have a refined jewellery finish, with delicate hand-finished details, while the eyewear cases propose minimal designs in materials that are carefully sourced, with some of their leathers and sustainable materials coming from arguably some of the most highly regarded suppliers in the world. Above: eyewear sacoche by Diffuser Tokyo – in Ultrasuede; below: the ‘Two rings joint metal’ chain is available in silver, black or gold  – it has a distinctive and very elegant jewellery finish 

Among the case designs available, Diffuser Tokyo has launched a cross-body pouch design for storing specs or sunglasses when on the go. A wide range of colours have been launched including the dark brown, black and beige tones trending this season. The holder is made in Ultrasuede by Toray, a high-quality luxurious sustainable material which has a beautiful soft and tactile finish. The design has a decorative cord which can be worn over the shoulder.

Diffuser Tokyo is a leading supplier of luxury accessories to independent opticians around the world. The company will return to SILMO this month as exhibitors with their full range of eyewear accessories, cases and chains. For more information visit www.diffuser-tokyo.com

Written by Clodagh Norton – A brown palette featuring latte, espresso, Havana and classic blends of milky caramel inspired natural colours is a big theme for Autumn/Winter in eyewear – the variation of light, warm and rich brown shades are beautiful for many skin tones

The natural brown palette is easy to pair with other favourite winter tones, and has also been a catwalk favourite across accessories and apparel collections, offering a cozy and comfortable look to stay warm and stylish all season long. Above: French independent label Lunettes Alf offers some beautiful tones in this palette, including classic tortoise varieties and a pale crystal brown. The tinted lenses (above) add a fresh modern look in combination with the classic light brown frame colour, www.lunettes-alf.com

Vera Wang’s oversized Camille style comes in a stunning ‘chiffon tortoise’, a colour which is perfectly in keeping with the lighter tones in the trending brown/latte colour palette. This model, produced by the US eyewear makers Kenmark Eyewear, has a nice large classic eye shape with a lot of glamourous details and feminine appeal. www.kenmarkeyewear.com

The Stewart frame, designed for men, comes from the Erker’s Special Reserve collection. It features a striking rectangular silhouette, softened by an angled cut along the brow. Special to this collection, two decorative Ferris Wheel rivets are found on the face of the frame, while their classic, authentic rivets bring a polished look to the exterior temple. This masculine frame is available in four colours of Black Gradient, Army, Skyline, and Matte Grey – with the ‘army’ tone offering up a unique and easy-to-wear brown variation for the male eyewear enthusiast. www.erkers1879.com

The new acetate model Hedda by Götti Switzerland, which will premiere at Silmo Paris, is part of a refined collection where colours include transparent cappuccino brown, havana and earthy transparent caramel brown. The gradient effect is a particularly trendy look for Autumn/Winter: harmonious brown, coffee and caramel tones are softly graduated to light, transparent or milky tones in the same palette, merging and intersecting in sophisticated ways. A particular feature of the acetate frames in the line is the filigree gold metal inlay, which combines elegantly with these natural brown hues. www.gotti.ch

In the new Paris Line for Autumn / Winter 2023, model Verneuil, an attractive Deco structure with a classical key hole bridge, comes in beautiful colour proposals, including the light brown tone pictured, an expression of a new feeling for delicacy and subtlety in the natural eyewear colour palette. www.ahlemeyewear.com

The Marni frame Likya Yolu brings some vintage finesse to current eyewear directions with its bold square eye shape and classic Havana colour, a finish that is perfectly in line with the new season wave of browns and brown related tones. In eyewear, tones of Havana evoke quality, traditional craft and artisan excellence.  www.retrosuperfuture.com

The Spanish label Kaleos has recently announced new styles in their collection showing at Silmo Paris. The line has several brown colours in the new palette;  the sunglasses style Benjamin comes in this mid-tone brown with tone-on-tone tinted lens and is intended as a genderless style, suited to everybody. www.kaleoscollection.com 

To find out more about trends in eyewear this season, follow our website and our Instagram page ahead of the SILMO fair : @eyestylistmagazine  To read more on colour trends visit https://www.eyestylist.com/2023/06/trends-zesty-orange-a-colour-to-love/

Kirk & Kirk are announcing their Contour Collection in Europe. Karen Kirk told Eyestylist how the new combination concept came to life

Inspired by the path of a river, its natural lines and unique facets, the UK independent brand Kirk & Kirk are bringing their zingy combination frames in the Contour collection to eyewear aficionados around the world. Previewed at Loft in NYC, the colourful styles, which combine Italian acrylic with alpaca silver temples, were fantastically well received across the States in the last months, according to Karen Kirk, co-founder, and take the signature acrylic material used by the UK brand into a whole new realm. Above: the colours are bold and bright in the Contour Collection; model wears flattering green tone from the Contour Collection

“It’s about amplifying the very best in our unique materials. Throughout the design process we take a sculptural approach; sizing and re-shaping our very own grade of Italian acrylic in the same way a sculptor shears a rock….” Karen Kirk

“The use of metal and a combination of textures feels very natural,” Karen Kirk told Eyestylist. “Contour is about the permanent marks left in nature. Sculpture is an ongoing theme in our collections because of the tactile inspiration I get from working with this special material. The contrast between the static etching created by nature with the transient flow of the elements creating it, was the inspiration. The concept was to interpret this with sheared angles in harmony with the milled valley in the temples, leading your eye from front to side, never static.”
Karen adds: “As with all frames by Kirk & Kirk, movement, whether it be the play of light or the angles, plays a key role in the design.”

Asked if a particular river had inspired or influenced the original concept and the special lines and facets, Karen told us that she was thinking of a place close to home: “We are fortunate enough to live by the coast in Brighton and often follow the beach to Shoreham where you arrive at the mouth of the River Adur. From the glass bridge in Shoreham you can see everything from the South Downs to the boat-lined towpath that is called Riverbank.”

The five-piece Contour collection with models named after members of the Kirk family – Emma, Zara, Layla, William and Van – will be on show at SILMO Paris at the end of September. The designs are available in eight bright sand-blasted colours which include jet, glacier, candy and indigo. Expect to see them in selected independent optical stores very soon! www.kirkandkirk.com.

Read more about the Contour collection by Kirk & Kirk on Eyestylist : https://www.eyestylist.com/2023/03/the-loft-2023-nyc/