Milan Design Week 2019: Palermouno renewed – concept studio focuses on chromatic research and international design
PalermoUno, the studio of Sophie Wannenes inaugaurated last November, has been filled with shapes and new artworks for Milan Design Week 2019. The exhibition – which includes limited editions and unique products have one common thread – colour that redefines spaces, choreographies, which completely change the look of the environment – give a new image to all eight rooms in the studio. The exhibition will continue through until July.
The space located in Brera confirms an original concept: each room keeps its functional connotation, revealing the desire to create a place that is in constant evolution. The product is part of the space, as well as an invitation to “please touch and bring me with you”. Attention is paid to the selection of furnishings made for PalermoUno in the customization of the shapes and in the colours and their gradients.
From 9 April the new exhibition, which will remain on display until 15 July 2019, will be accompanied by the launch of the ecommerce site Palermouno.it where it is possible to buy the objects and furnishing accessories present in the different spaces. For further details visit: www.palermouno.it – Images: Andrea Pedretti CN
German design label Mykita has moved its New York store to 458 Broome Street into the heart of the fashionable Soho neighbourhood of the city. After five years on Crosby Street, the new two-floor space comprises a large area of 1590 square feet where the full collection is now presented alongside a state-of-the-art lab and workshop.
The company says it is the first shop to allow a full view into the optical lab and workshop showing the combination of handcrafting and high-tech that defines what the company refers to as “Modern Manufactory”. It also means the shop can offer a comprehensive optical service including in-house lens cutting, glazing, adjustments and repairs.
Mykita currently has a large and growing number of shops around the world, with further openings already slated for 2019 and a new store just opened in Carrer de Valencia, Barcelona. www.mykita.com CN
An imposing handpainted mural (above) portraying the founder Wim Somers in neon tones at the top covers one huge expanse of wall at the front of theo’s home in Antwerp. The colour combinations and design are indicative of a pioneering spirit and the bold, innovative and industrious direction of the theo family today represented by the second generation, brothers Mik, Jan and Toon.
In its own equally expressive statement, the Graffiti collection by theo, launched at the Paris eyewear fair Silmo 2018 and now available in stores, looks to pay homage to the freedom and impact of street art. It explores the specific language of expression and lettering used by the New York graffiti artist ‘Phase 2’ in the late 1970s, reworking the effect with a whole different look in the frames.
The style of the ‘bubble-letters’ or ‘softies’ became extremely influential at the time and continue to be regarded in the art form as a ‘gigantic leap’. Here in the new theo eyewear collection, the expression of the letters is achieved through the protruding rounded acetate rims, in coordinated or contrasting colours on the stainless steel base frame, also worked to replicate the bubble effect with little ‘breaks’ through the design.
Three frame shapes – models Tag, Throwie and Piece – realised by Serge Bracké, work with the acetate and stainless steel mix – and come in eight graffiti inspired bright statement hues which include ‘glowing’ neon-like pinks and oranges that perfectly identify with the ultra-brilliant tones of the best fluorescent spray paints.
theo belgium’s first glasses became available in 1989. Today their collections are sold in 1,400 stores in 50 countries. Many of their optical partners make the journey to Antwerp to visit HQ and experience the theo world first hand. Find out more at www.theo.beCN
Marco Grassi creates figurative portraits that combine realistic and abstract elements. Since the start of his career, the Italian artist has developed a personal style which praises the identity of the female subject in the specific moment in which they are painted. Through intense female portraits, Grassi is focused on captivating the viewer, and creating a silent dialogue between the subject and audience. Above: Marco Grassi – Gold Experience 2018 – Oil on aluminium with resin
In the forthcoming exhibition in London, Grassi has abandoned the element that was once his trademark style and technique: the decisive strokes which outlined his anatomic forms and lent a sense of stability to the whole of the figure, and contrasted with bold colours, blended with a spatula, and drippings to break them down and make them more subtle. His recent subjects display less certainty, which once allowed the figures to integrate themselves fully with the complex weave of colours. The background is more decisive and reflects the subjects’ facial expressions and intense silence, creating a complicity with the observer.
“Central to my forthcoming exhibition is the expressiveness of the body and my determination to portray to our younger generations a truthful and realistic picture of themselves,” says the artist. “An image that goes deeper than cultural standards and opinions of the media and discovers the inner beauty that lies beneath the surface in all human beings.”
Marco Grassi’s works have been exhibited in many solo and group exhibitions, and international fairs including Art Basel, Art Miami, SCOPE Basel and the Moscow Art Fair. He was also selected to exhibit at the opening of the Italian Pavilion at the Venice Biennale in 2011.
31th March to 6th April at HOFA Gallery, 30 Royal Opera Arcade, London, SW1Y 4UY
6th April to 17th April at HOFA Gallery, 58 Maddox Street (corner with New Bond Street), WIS 1AY
It’s by no means an obvious choice in adult eyewear, but its popularity in fashion has led to a surge in delicate blush or blossom tones for frame and lens. At the Spring fashion and eyewear fairs, this delicate, soft tone was a key feature across collections from emerging to established, sitting next to the darker classics of black and tortoise and establishing its presence for what we believe will be several seasons to come.
Above: Heidi London cateye with pearlised textured finish. www.heidilondon.com – Model: Melanie Baird – Photography by Gennaro D’Elia exclusively for Eyestylist.com – London, Covent Garden
Above: Evangelisti Eyewear: Squared acetate sunglasses Drop 01.
Young label Evangelisti was created by designers Giulio Milano and Giacomo Beghin. The sunglasses have a bold appearance with sculptured “flame-like” pattern on the temples. The design was launched this season in five statement colorways. https://evangelistiworld.com/
The Danish independent brand Fleye has added new styles in the Signature collection, with pink tones, inspired by floral compositions in their “Flowers of Denmark” campaign.
Tones range from the bright baby pink of model Grass or the more neutral blush pink combination in the double rim optical style, Jasione. www.fleye.dk
Ørgreen’s latest release of titanium eyewear, Titanium Tribe, explores the effects of milling the edges of the frames to create softer, more rounded edges. The contemporary palette, created by colorist Sahra Lysell includes brights such as Rio Red and Grape Juice, as well as the more delicate shades of Cloud Cream and Misty Rose (above). For more details visit www.orgreenoptics.comCN
Sensuous silhouettes, luxury materials, and impeccable tailoring define the glamorous evening dresses and chic daywear by Zac Posen. These finely-honed skills and high-caliber attributes are also creatively characterised in striking eyewear designs for men and women. The American designer is renowned for his contemporary, modern aesthetics that combine innovative shapes, quality materials, and signature details. Sunglasses are oversized, with slim lines; very lightweight; comfortable to wear; and adapt freely to city and seaside environments. Thiola (left above photo) is an alluring, exaggerated cat-eye shape; while the men’s frame – Roscoe – is casually and distinctively tailored.
Posen’s optical designs are classically conceived with timeless elements that synchronise with fashionable attire for everyday wear, with subtly refined, yet impressive frame details. Explore www.kenmarkeyewear.com for additional noteworthy eyewear from Zac Posen. JG
60s fever, and gold and silver retro metal rims, are challenging the elongated It-Girl cat’s eye as one of the most popular sunglass looks as we head into Spring, and we’ve seen it on the streets at London Fashion Week, and again in Milan. The lens tints are fun and colourful or very delicate, so they don’t completely hide the eyes, while the rims are extremely narrow, closely representing the styling of the past. Above: Em . The Lipstick Fever, wearing metal rim sunglasses at London Fashion Week in February. https://thelipstickfever.com/ Photography by G. D’Elia – exclusively for Eyestylist.com
Austrian label Andy Wolf has made the metal rims a key feature of the 2019 collections, experimenting with very small shapes as well as classic panto shapes, such as model Amira (above). This design comes with a variety of gentle lens tints including soft blue, pale pink and gold. Available at Matches Fashion, or for further information visit www.andywolf.com
Or choose a unique style from one of the smaller labels. Viveur’s elegantly fashioned metal designs are made in Italy and have a chic finesse. The metal material is 100% hypoallergenic and very lightweight. The collections for Spring/Summer include round “panto” designs and slightly modified angular shapes such as Greg above – a shape with a flattened top that’s on the rise. Available to purchase online at www.viveursunglasses.com CN