Beyond chic: minimal metals

The metal frames of the moment are a sign that 2020 will be another good one for a more minimal style in eyewear. In Paris and Milan Fashion Weeks, the coolest metal frames worn out on the street were neither mini nor oversized, fitting the face to perfection with interesting shapes, angled or geometric forms (octagons and hexagons) in metal tones, and particularly shiny steel, gun and black. Above: fashion influencer Megan Adelaide Schaefer in a black metal frame photographed at Paris Fashion Week by Gennaro D’Elia for Eyestylist.com.

Optical chic: MMCRAFT011 by MYKITA + MAISON MARGIELA: a precious engraving is just visible to the naked eye on the bridge and temples

Very, very narrow rimmed frames – whether sun or optical, as above at Mykita, deliver a sharp yet simple style softened with the subtle vintage inspired engraving, in a successful blend of nostalgic and futuristic elements. www.mykita.com

Milan Fashion Week: stunning 3-sided metal rim frame

Clean, pared back designs with dark grey or black lens for sunglasses provide streamlined modes that are visual but less showy that in previous seasons with attention paid to craftsmanship and finesse for a simple unembellished but elegant way of dressing.

Monarch by L.G.R: a metal front with a striking cat eye form

Cat eye inspired metal shapes, such as Monarch by L.G.R (www.lgrworld.com), are contemporary and striking, balancing glamour and a feminine identity in the shape; the colours of the Monarch are in line with the minimal mood and include matt copper (above) matt black and grey with flat zero base sun lenses made from mineral glass for 100% UV protection and comfort. For more on trending styles, visit https://www.eyestylist.com/2019/10/paris-fashion-week-ss20/CN

 

Guo Pei couture for Fashion in Motion

20th anniversary of Fashion in Motion – Victoria & Albert Museum, London, UK

Celebrating the 20th anniversary of Fashion in Motion, the V&A will be hosting a presentation by the acclaimed Chinese couturier Guo Pei. Famed for designing Rihanna’s yellow gown worn at the 2015 Met Gala, Guo Pei is one of China’s most spectacular designers, dressing celebrities, royalty and the style icons for over 20 years.

Fashion in Motion: Guo Pei will be the designer’s first ever show in the UK and will showcase looks from her AW 2019/20 Alternate Universe Couture collection inside the museum’s iconic Raphael Gallery on Friday 1st November 2019. Above: Guo Pei ‘Alternate Universe Fall-Winter 2019/20 – coming to #FashioninMotion at the V&A

Guo Pei: creative couture – ‘Alternate Universe’

Fashion in Motion is the V&A’s key fashion event enabling anyone to take a seat on the front row. Providing a platform for both established and up- and-coming designers, the regular series presents free-to-attend runway shows for the public and has previously featured Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood and Yohji Yamamoto.

Guo Pei first presented her Alternate Universe collection at this year’s Paris Couture Week. The collection is based on the idea of a new universe where light and darkness co- exist, angels and demons sit next to one another and magical creatures creep out of the shadows. Combining the use of pineapple hemp fabric, Lafite embroidery and her signature three- dimensional embroidery techniques, the collection conjures up vivid images of mystical creatures from a different realm. Drawing inspiration from myths, fables, religious texts and the beauty of natural life, animal and insect motifs feature heavily throughout the collection, from the monkeys of Aesop’s Fables to the poisonous snake which lured Eve to steal the forbidden fruit.

Details: decorative Chinese embroidery

Guo Pei has established herself as one of the most inventive designers working today. Showcasing the finest of traditional Chinese craftsmanship while incorporating contemporary innovation, her designs take inspiration from myths, legends, architecture, and her cultural heritage. Free tickets will be released for the catwalk events from 21st October 2019 at

https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/fashion-in-motion-guo-pei CN

Paris Fashion Week SS20

A little less sunshine (and fewer sunglasses on the street) but just as beautiful as ever, Paris Fashion Week’s street style looks were bold and breathtaking or deeply influenced by tradition. In eyewear, a sincere love and respect for heritage and classic couture was evident across the city with vintage designs and clean architectural shapes in muted tones being most popular with all generations. Above: Anna Dello Russo wearing an oversized mask in black. Photography by Gennaro D’Elia for Eyestylist.com.

Russian Model Alina wears thick rimmed tortoise sunglasses with leopard print

The cat’s eye continued to enjoy a spectacular showing at Paris, as in London and NYC – with all versions, from small and sleek to large or elongated worn by women – and increasingly, men too.

Elongated cat’s eyes: @kandelissa @mikhaelkale – Photo by Gennaro D’Elia

The elongated and sharply pointed cat’s eyes worn by many celebrities are still in vogue with the darker colours remaining the most elegant trend-driven statement for a striking finish or unique look – above, worn by Jessica (@kandelissa) with Mikhael Kale (SS20).

Leila Depina #PFW in small round sunnies

Metal frames have really taken off with a few particular shapes such as small rounds and ovals doing well. Our sightings of these styles indicated that this trend is strong and still growing.

Caro Daur : Valentino – photo by Gennaro D’Elia

With less rays throughout the week there was a chance to catch some models and influencers in glamorous glasses. Caroline Daur (influencer, blogger and entrepreneur – www.carodaur.com) wore a classic black cat eye with head to toe Valentino for the @maisonvalentino show by Pierpaolo Piccioli. Photography by Gennaro D’Elia exclusively for Eyestylist.com. CN

Rigards for UJOH: Paris launch

Ti Kwa’s avant-garde eyewear label Rigards always has something special to show at Paris Fashion Week and SILMO at this time of year – and for 2019 it’s a very special cat eye inspired by nature.

Collaborating with UJOH, Mitsuru Nishizaki’s award-winning womenswear line, model RG0123UJOH+ builds upon the traditional winged silhouette, with its upswept double rims, one made of ultralight aluminum-magnesium and the other of surgical-steel. The semi-stacked construction and negative-space cut away creates an illusion that the inner rims are floating over the face.

The frame’s aesthetic pays special homage to dragonflies and damselflies, insects which the designer has studied with a keen eye. Despite their simple origin from “incomplete” metamorphoses and fragile wings of gossamer, they have come to symbolize beauty, ferocity, and purity of habitat, in almost every part of the world.

A second model – RG0123UJOH – was created alongside this masterpiece. This style is described as “a little more subtle” without the statement-making cut-out (and thus the colour contrast), yet still offering a resolutely distinctive and individual alternative for the less-audacious wearer.

Both styles are released in six colours, one of the highlights of which is Red—nicknamed ‘Akatombo’ (Red Dragonfly), a nod to the iconic creatures of Japanese nostalgia and song. Find out more by visiting Rigards at SILMO or Paris Fashion Week, or go to www.rigards.com – for previous features on Rigards via Eyestylist visit https://www.eyestylist.com/2019/08/the-viridi-anne-x-rigards-glasses-with-clip/  CN

 

Skagen’s Nordic Light: Asger by Fleye

The soothing, atmospheric beauty of Skagen, Denmark’s most northerly village, has long inspired painters, writers and designers to visit its windswept shorelines, pine forests and dunes.

Most famous were the Skagen Painters, a group of Scandinavian artists who settled in the village to portray the remarkable scenery – and the unique quality of light that had drawn them to the spectacular spot at the tip of mainland Jutland.

Reflecting on their iconic paintings, eyewear label FLEYE Copenhagen’s design team have come up with their own inspirational artwork experimenting with a variety of materials and their different characteristics; they play with matte and shiny surfaces, soft natural light, color contrasts, and beautiful reflections, highlights of the paintings that most inspired their studies.

Inspired by Skagen Paintings, still life by photographer Ida Emilie Risager

“Each frame becomes its own artistic expression when textures are combined, colours are chosen and reflections are created.”

The result is a series of frames (including model Asger, top) inspired by the colours and textures of the team’s  ‘abstract’ art works, photographed by Ida Emilie Risager. Design concepts such as transparency, depth and structure have been applied to create the collection using a mix of materials from light acetates, to warm carbon/wood and beta-titanium. Each design has a link to the works of art, balancing the technical precision of the Danish company’s frame construction with unusual art-focused design elements and colours.

The Nordic Light eyewear collection launches shortly at the SILMO fair (trade fair) in Paris. Find out more about Fleye frames at : www.fleye.dk CN

Silmo Insights: 2019

The Silmo fair in September (international trade fair) is the pinnacle of the “eyewear designers” calendar of events, and provides our eyes with a feast of colour and innovation in design from well-known, new and up-and-coming labels who descend on Paris for several days. It’s the place we love to scout for innovation, new trends, and unique eyewear and accessories from all around the world.

Joining the line up are many companies who return to the event every year. The Marseilles designer Jean-François Rey launches new designs across multiple collections at the event, with a principal focus on expertise in colour, design creativity and beautiful French artisan quality. Highlights this year will include the new Wave collection (above) – an architecture-inspired eyewear concept using stainless steel to create lightweight, airy structures with a “folding effect” achieved by hand. Gorgeous hand applied colour combinations provide an eye-catching effect on the face. www.jfrey.fr

Deckard by Oscar Magnuson – exquisite design, colour and hand-finished ‘sculpted’ ‘eco’ acetate

From Sweden, Oscar Magnuson returns each year to Paris, this time with a bio-acetate collection that marries a bold structural look with the quality and pared-down purity of high-quality Swedish design. The sunglasses collection in the same material include some statement micro shapes (model Sid) and oversized classics (model Debbie) and across the lines you will find a palette of monochrome tones such as urban green, crystal grey and deep ink – a deep sophisticated and moody tone that makes a clever alternative to black. www.oscarmagnuson.com

Diffuser Tokyo: first time at Silmo

Their first time showing to the international audience at Silmo, Diffuser Tokyo – by Masaki Hirose – will reveal its comprehensive high-quality range of accessories which include cases, frame holders and eyewear pouches in a fresh concept that highlights quality materials and well designed functional products. Preview their ranges at www.diffuser-tokyo.com. We are already big fans.

Andy by SALT. Optics in a glowing hue of ‘whiskey’

Brand new crystal colorations and nature-infused tones are a feature for next year’s sunglasses collections. Californian label SALT. Optics is introducing new styles in their C2-19 collection which is poised to deliver beautiful heritage-inspired eyewear, made in Japan with exclusive quality features (incredible hardware through to chic glass lenses) and subtle colorations of dusty rose, hazy taupe, mojave and whiskey (above). Find out more at www.saltoptics.com

Mr Lenoir Lunettes, by Djibril Cissé with Laurent Balducelli

Another new name at Silmo this year, Mr Lenoir is the official brand of former football player Djibril Cissé, with optical and sunglass designs created in partnership with Laurent Balducelli, a French optician and specialist in bespoke eyewear. Produced in Montbeliard in France, the eclectic range of styles are made from Mazzucchelli acetate and in some cases feature metal laser cutting and chemical etching. They are available at a few independent stores already, both in and outside France. For more information visit their Instagram page @mrlenoirlunettes.

Von Arkel – a winning combination of luxury + innovation

For luxurious, cutting-edge design, the Swiss brand Von Arkel stands apart in its achievements in applying the technical precision and craftsmanship of watchmaking to luxury frames, produced by master craftsmen in Morges in Switzerland. New sophisticated concepts will show on the Von Arkel stand at the Paris show this month: www.vonarkel.com

Silmo Paris – the international eyewear and optics fair – takes place from 27th to 30th September 2019 at Paris Nord Villepinte. For further details and registration visit  www.silmoparis.com Watch our Design + Inspiration page for the next weeks for more updates and previews for the Paris show!

3D printed: You Mawo’s Sebastian Zenetti

Sebastian Zenetti is the Co-Founder of the award-winning 3d printed eyewear label, You Mawo. The brand is pioneering a new form of 3D printed made-to-measure eyewear, which uses an ipad to take a scan of the head.

For any one who doesn’t know You Mawo, how would you explain what you are doing in the context of luxury 3D printed eyewear? We have formed a team of experts from areas outside eyewear, from optics, IT, product development, design, and business/economics. Our focus is to find new technologies, to bring them to eyewear and generate something innovative with added value for the customer. Among other things, we use the latest and most innovative production technology.

Exclusive Preview: Selene by You Mawo

Who was originally the brains behind the brand and how has the team grown since you first launched in 2016 in Germany? You Mawo was created by four founders. Stephan Grotz is head of IT development and has more than 20 years’ experince with data analytics and algorithmic parametrisation. Daniel Szabo is head of finance and and business development. Daniel Miko is head of Design and product development. I take care of our sales team and customer support. After 3 and a half years we have grown from 4 to 40. We are developing everything by ourselves and as much as possible through our team.

Lyra by You Mawo – Silmo Preview

What exactly is different about a You Mawo 3d printed design? And what are the frames made of? We use a special kind of polyamide from the medical industry. This material is 30% lighter than acetate and much more durable. It has great thermal properties and is adjustable with heat. Our production technology is called selective laser sintering and it is the industrial version of 3D Printing. The frames are produced, layer by layer. The benefit of this technology is that we can produce individual frames quickly and easily, and we produce as good as no waste, which makes this method completely sustainable.

As well as the main collection, you have created some pretty wild one-off frames including a cool thick framed limited edition. Can you tell us about these. These are our ‘design lab’ frames: we wanted to be able to showcase the possibilities we have with 3D printing. Our first concept in this series is ‘Metamorphosis’. Model Malina was inspired by the first sunglasses on Earth, created in bone by the Inuit.

Aneto by You Mawo: 3D printed with bold colours and textures

How did you get into eyewear in the first place? – what is your previous career path and what attracted you to 3D printing? My family owns optical stores and I trained as an optician. Then I met Daniel Miko and Daniel Szabo. We realised instantly we had something in common: we are all very interested in new technologies. At some point on a backpacking trip to Southern Asia, we were talking about customization and we came up with a complete concept: You Mawo was born.

Can you give us a sneak peak of what is happening for you at the Silmo trade fair and what we can expect from the brand in 2020? This month we will launch four new models in our Design lab collection where our Designers and product development team can show what is possible with new technology. 2020 is extremely exciting for us too. We will launch new innovations including some new advanced software tools. We are hugely looking forward to the future and we can’t wait to reveal what else we are working on. For more information about You Mawo visit www.youmawo.com CN

The Viridi-anne x Rigards glasses

In a unique collaboration between award-winning avantgarde label Rigards and Japan’s artisan fashion designer Tomoaki Okaniwa, these silver + aluminium round glasses are among several of the works of art in the Rigards collection for 2019 – showing that the Hong-Kong based designer Ti Kwa continues on his own path of artisan craftsmanship and innovation, with ever greater achievement in the creative process and work with different, distinctive materials.

This complex small round frame is made from pure titanium and hand hammered .925 sterling silver for the nose piece, surgical steel for the temple arms and aluminium-magnesium for the interchangeable sun clip. Delicacy and character come from the signature hand worked finishes and elegant shape of the glasses which are light and refined, with a bespoke feel to each element of the design. A sophisticated nose pad design uses three different components which fit together to form the cohesive whole and unique colour combinations ensure a choice of dramatic or more subtle, depending on the individual’s style. The frame above is pictured in black (RG2001) with a white clip-on and contrasting red lens.

About The Viridi-anne: the brand was launched by Tomoaki Okaniwa in Japan in 2001. It is often described as Japanese in design, with influences from Europe. The label collaborates with many unique labels including Bocci, Mold and Daniel Andresen.

About Rigards: Rigards has become a creative leader in luxury artisan eyewear and produces frames by hand in a variety of sophisticated materials including copper, wood and buffalo horn. Rigards won the iF design award in 2018. for its aluminum-magnesium model RG0086AL. For further details visit www.rigards.com and www.viridi-anne.jp CN