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Mazzucchelli Magic

Italian Acetate with Global Accolades

One of the first new words I learned when starting to work in eyewear was “Mazzucchelli.” When designers and companies mentioned quality acetate, it was Mazzucchelli. The company was spoken of with reverence, awe and respect. After many years of admiring the lustrous beauty of Mazzucchelli, there was an opportunity to visit the company’s headquarters  – with a group of delightful Dutch opticians – located in the charming Italian village of Castiglione Olona, near Milan. Res/Rei, who produces all their imaginative designs in Mazzucchelli acetate, graciously organised an informative and inspiring visit to the firm that was founded in 1849.

In the ensuing one hundred sixty plus years , Mazzucchelli has created innovative, colourful and technical acetate marvels, that enables designers to broaden their approach to eyewear, and to explore and expand unlimited potential in frames. Creating acetate is a complex process that involves many intricate steps.  The knowledge, skill, and experience of enlightened craftsmen have passed down their unique talents from generation to generation. The careful blending of creative artisans and sophisticated equipment produces astounding results.

Acetate in process at Mazzucchelli
Acetate in process at Mazzucchelli Photo: Umberto-Res/Rei

Even though Mazzucchelli has the latest state-of-the-art machinery, it still utilizes machines that were built in 1884. Painstaking and delicate steps are involved in acetate creations, and employees must complete an intensive training period. In addition, production requires special skill sets including mental agility, patience, and experience in order to ensure the colour and high quality expected from Mazzucchelli. The company takes particular care that the employees are safe and protected during these processing operations – and takes great satisfaction in knowing that the staff is passionate and knowledgeable about what they do.

Mazzucchelli orsi
The Better To See You…Bespectacled Bears welcome visitors at Mazzucchelli entrance Photo: Umberto-Res/Rei

Just as fabric companies follow fashion influences, Mazzucchelli has a keen eye on the trends, and develops 6000-8000 new colours every year, seventy percent of which are custom made. Designers often remark on the “warmth, beauty, smoothness and depth” of Mazzucchelli acetate, and it is one of the many reasons that they create frames in this material. Oliviero Zanon at Res/Rei enjoys scouring the Mazzucchelli archives to find vintage acetates in which to develop his collection. Zanon once remarked that one of the reasons he started to create eyewear, is “because I wanted a more human experience. You interact with all the people involved from the manufacturer of the materials, to the clients…it is quite amazing.”

Acetate Triumph - Venere by Res/Rei in Mazzucchelli Acetate
Acetate Triumph – Venere by Res/Rei in Mazzucchelli Acetate

What is also amazing is the continuity of craftsmanship that begins with Mazzucchelli, and continues through to the eyewear designers – harmonious creations made by people who really care. www.mazzucchelli1849.it Res/Rei will be at SILMO 25-28th September www.resrei.com www.silmoparis.com  JG Top Photo: Bach and Mozart from The Musicians Collection by Res/Rei in Mazzucchelli Acetate

Autumn Eyewear Highlights

September and SILMO in Paris

1st September 2015 An exhilarating colour palette is just one of the numerous highlights that awaits visitors at SILMO in Paris from 25th to 28th September. International eyewear creators will present their latest collections, and the previews we have seen, indicate that the forthcoming season promises to be a beautiful symphony of colour, appealing shapes, and superb materials.

Ultra-slim acetate designs by Sven Götti at Götti Switzerland (above) possess a swashbuckling urban look with retro contours. Randy (forefront) features the symbolic Götti shine, in an autumn hue of shining russet. Wlady is a powerful shape with a velvety, soft matte finish in smooth Mocha. Randy and WLady are genuine modern classics luxuriously crafted. www.gotti.ch

 

Carey in Ocean by Kirk & Kirk
Carey in Ocean by Kirk & Kirk

The Greek god of beauty – Kalos – has inspired the vibrant colours in Kirk & Kirk’s new Kaleidoscope collection. Jason and Karen Kirk have crafted their signature Italian acrylic material into distinctive frames that radiate brilliant colour with a polished glass effect. Carey in Ocean features contemporary styling with strong, sophisticated contours. www.kirkandkirk.com

SOHO in Lilac by Lafont Paris
SOHO in Lilac by Lafont Paris

Lafont Paris unveils their superb 2015 sunglass collection at SILMO. Amongst the newest designs is SOHO, with beautiful Liberty Art Fabric inserted between the acetate. The colourful floral variations are reminiscent of an English Country Garden, bursting with abundant blossoms. And just like a flourishing oasis, the colours are wonderful – including lilac (above); the frame is also available in a medley of red, blue, yellow and green florals; plus a predominately “white” garden scattered with tiny multi-colour buds; and three other variations. Lafont also promises additional eyewear surprises at SILMO this year – more info at www.lafont.com

Bungle Bungle by Jono Hennessy
Bungle Bungle by Jono Hennessy

Jono Hennessy reflects on his Australian heritage, and incorporates the colours and prints of his native land in the new eyewear collection. Bungle Bungle is inspired by the outback town of Coober Pedy, and its rare black opals. The expressive cat-eye shape is the perfect concept for these colourful and exotic frames. Jono Hennessy will also be launching a new brand at SILMO – Zepher Modern Alchemy – uniting Titanium and HDCA (hard density cellulose acetate). www.jonohennessy.com Additional SILMO information at www.silmoparis.com JG

 

Eyewear Canine Companions

Lapin – The Bilingual Pooch

27th August 2015 Eyestylist’s continuing series on Eyewear Canine Companions visits with Lapin – who is bilingual, but reportedly all paws when it comes to computer keyboards. So Lapin had a little assistance from her owners Jason and Karen Kirk, of Kirk & Kirk Eyewear.

Have you had Lapin since she was a puppy? “Lapin joined the Kirk family when she was eight weeks old. She is now twelve. Her parents were working dogs, and we met her at a farm in the Pyrenees, France. She is a Pyreneen Shepherd. As a puppy, she would herd Eden and Ezra (her parents) as if they were sheep, and nip their ankles.”

Is Lapin an “office dog?” “Lapin spends her day in our design studio making sure we are not barking up the wrong tree.”

Lapin The Pyreneen Shepherd
Lapin The Pyreneen Shepherd

What are some of her special characteristics? “Lapin has a fear of flies. She has lived in Brighton for three years now, so she is completely bilingual. Her favourite artist is Celine Dion, which really annoys the rest of the family, as nobody else in the house enjoys listening.”

Has walking with Lapin ever triggered a design idea? “Taking Lapin for a walk offers a brief moment of calm…often the moment when ideas are formed.”

Does Lapin travel with you? “Lapin rarely travels with us although she did make the move from Bordeaux to Brighton. When we go on holiday she often prefers to stay with friends rather than come with us. As a mature lady, we allow her to make her own decisions. Lapin was nine when she moved to England, the perfect age for learning a new language. She took the cultural change in her stride, but developed a nervous twitch. And now whenever she meets a French person she whistles “She” by Charles Aznavour. It was alright the first few times…” www.kirkandkirk.com JG

 

October Destination: Zurich

Hall of Frames in Switzerland

Independent, exclusive eyewear brands headline the Hall of Frames exhibition in Zurich 4th and 5th October. The event is a celebration of eyewear creators, and includes among others: ROLF Spectacles; Adrian Marwitz; Götti; Suzy Glam; Kirk & Kirk; Orgreen; Face à Face; Hapter; Lafont; and Coblens.

ROLF Spectacles present their award-winning Excellence 92 (above) from the evolved collection. Streamlined and elegant, the frame is available in four different wood combinations – utilising the finest natural materials, innovative technologies, and superb craftsmanship. All ROLF designs are produced by hand in The Tyrol in Austria. www.rolf-spectacles.com

Stranger No. 13 in Titanium by Adrian Marwitz
Stranger No. 13 in Titanium by Adrian Marwitz

Extremely lightweight and comfortable to wear, Adrian Marwitz champions the characteristics of Titanium in his Urban Stranger series. Lucky number Stranger 13 is slim and slender, artfully crafted in Germany, and exudes a sophisticated air in Navy Blue with Turquoise trim. www.adrianmarwitz.com Photo by Max Gudczinski

Suzy Glam Has Left The Building by Susanne Klemm
Suzy Glam Has Left The Building by Susanne Klemm

“Suzy Glam has left the building” is an evocative new design from The Netherlands based designer Susanne Klemm. Smooth acetate is crafted into a voluminous shape that is bold and striking. A varied selection of colours is available including Champagne (above); army, thunder; and turtle in luminous acetate, plus matte versions. Save the dates for Zurich! More information at www.hallofframes.ch www.suzyglam.com JG

School Zone

Trendy Opticals

Reading Writing, ‘rithmatic…and new glasses! Appealing frame designs for the new term will please and excite both youngsters and their parents. Zoobug has a striking, fun collection that includes vintage shapes in modern colours. The above photo features Sunny – a round design in perky red/white stripes: Butterfly is for children from 5-12 years; Kat is perfect for blooming fashionistas; and Square is super trendy in a range of colours created to delight children. For more information on the latest Zoobug collection, visit www.zoobug.com Photo by Wanda Kujacz, www.wandakujacz.book.fr

Cheerful and Bright; Rififi by Lafont Paris
Cheerful and Bright; Rififi by Lafont Paris

Bright, joyful colours and precise fit highlight children’s eyewear at Lafont Paris. A Scottish touch with the inside of the frame accented in Tartan plaid adds zest and zip to Rififi. Discover more fresh statement shapes for children at www.lafont.com

Delicate pastels: Montreal by Red Optical
Delicate pastels: Montreal by Red Optical

Red Optical in The Netherlands has launched a beautiful collection for children in colours that range from soft pastels to sophisticated darker tones. Montreal has a vintage spirit, crafted in smooth acetate, with perfect fit for little faces. www.redoptical.com

School Day Studies in Doyle by Original Penguin Junior
School Day Studies in Doyle by Original Penguin Junior

Eyewear styles that reflect adult designs are a favourite with kids, and Original Penguin Junior has a selection for boys in grown up colours that include black, tortoiseshell and olive geen. www.kenmarkoptical.com JG