Reviews

Equilibrio by Struktur: The Eclipse

The Eclipse is part of Struktur’s new Equilibrio concept which first launched in September – the panto shape has been developed by means of a detailed study of vintage panto styles

The new concept features frames created according to the key direction of the French label which fuses craftsmanship with cutting-edge technology and refined design details. Crafted from 8mm cellulose acetate, the acetate parts of each frame are machined to create the unique shape and subsequently polished in barrels for a week to create a brilliant glossy finish. A second phase of milling is then performed to create the delicate bevels in the back and along the sides of the frames, the work that adds a sculptural look with a luminous finish.  Above: the Eclipse model in a patterned acetate called “poppy field”

The Eclipse by Struktur, in “pink pink” – the temples are lightweight stainless steel

In the Equilibrio collection, all styles feature sculpted end pieces and nose pads and a narrow tailored stainless steel temple. The combination of acetate and metal achieves a comfortable balance between strength and lightness – viewed from the front, the beveled structure of the hinges aligns naturally with the temples. The Eclipse frame is available in several trend-focused colours (‘pink pink’, caramel mustard, poppy field, and rustic blue) and is one of six models in this new collection. Struktur frames are handmade in Normandy, France. Find out more about the lightweight Equilibrio models at www.struktur-eyewear.fr

Nylor – the brand created in 1955, is back

Re-launched in 2022, the iconic French brand NYLOR offers a collection of eyewear created according to the brand’s traditional values – the frames are already stocked by some of the most highly regarded opticians around the world

Inspired by the iconic vintage designs that made the brand famous, NYLOR has repositioned its collection with a contemporary flavour, selecting the finest materials in the present to recreate the unique new variations of the handcrafted designs of its past. Made in Italy, the designs come in a range of materials including acetate or metal coated in precious metals such as gold or silver.  For sunglasses, the frames are fitted with Zeiss Originals tints from the 1950s, specifically reissued to fit perfectly with the style and 50s origins of the range. Above: elegant and refined, the Nylor frames of today closely observe the quality and refined details of the original collection – they frames have a particular and inimitable style

Nylor’s Leopold style

Highlights this season include the model Leopold, a tribute to the poet, Léopold Sédar Senghor. The design is all about the structure of the brow line, a thick, delicately bevelled acetate bar which curves into the temples seamlessly creating a single line which wraps around either side of the face. The frame is available in many different colours including glossy cherry red (pictured above), matt khaki, glossy dark tortoise or a very classic matt black that defines the original mood of the 1950s.

Padma Image, Japan: STK

The designer Meiji Hasui has developed his latest eyewear collection as a new interpretation of an earlier range – STK is based on a concept which explores geometry

Padma Image has launched a new eyewear collection this October, with styles that feature a minimal symmetrical silhouette, resulting from a study of geometric design work. The frames bring a new look to the eyewear brand, which has previously also showcased a selection of intriguing asymmetrical concepts – highlighted on Eyestylist in recent years – https://www.eyestylist.com/2019/12/ue-shita-by-padma-image/

In this new series, the designer returns to his early work and a minimal concept with particular design details including a striking flattened top line. Above: the frames in the STK collection reexplore some of the first frames in the collection produced in 2011, entitled STICK. The geometric shapes feature distinctive lens shapes

Padma Image STK in milky grey (above) and black / stone grey

Padma Image was first created in 2011 by Meiji Hasui with a particular philosophy based on “the pursuit of sensation”. Hasui grew up in the scenic environment of Shikoku Island in Japan, and originally trained as an engineer. His frame designs are derived from and inspired by nature and natural shapes. He is interested in creating graceful lines which blend into the individual’s expression when worn, produce a pleasant and especially flattering result.

The new collection features a new branded photographic campaign shot by the photographer Shintaro Miyawaki

Hasui has developed his company, Padd design LLC in recent years to offer three different unique collections: Padma Image, the original line, N PRODUCT with frames in buffalo horn, and tico chouette, a collection designed with a contemporary edge for small faces. For more information, visit www.padddesign.com

FACE A FACE is sculpting colour

The French brand has launched a collection which fuses colour with bold interpretations

The collection includes several exciting shapes with inventive sculptural silhouettes and contemporary colour ideas. The model Glitch 1 is inspired by the aesthetic of digital screen glitches. The finely crafted frame has a three-step milled design with layers in the transparency. The frame blends charisma, individuality and a modern angular fashion-focused style that will make a great eyewear statement. Above: the Glitch model from FACE A FACE

Framed1 by FACE A FACE

Framed is another colourful example in the range, and a true signature concept of the brand. The style is quite surprising with its blend of angles and softer lines. The designers explain the concept: “inside a very organic shape – the faceted contour of the glasses – you will be able to see a very structured rectangular shape, which draws the inner shape of the eyes, like a cookie cutter….”

The new colour palette features interesting tones of candy pink, cerulean blue grey and transparent sky blue. By fusing these colours together, the frames feel fresh and inventive with a dreamy and digital aura that expresses something magical and new! Find out more at www.faceaface-paris.com

Kuboraum Mask E21

A new handcrafted mask in the Reisen series is released as an exclusive to Kuboraum stores (in Rome, Milan, Berlin and Mexico) and Dover Street Market Ginza and London

The E21 mask – announced this month – is a handcrafted bold wraparound design in acetate, defined by a striking front structure with meticulously ‘skived’ and bevelled edges surrounding the lenses, creating a sharp, refined finish. This design also showcases thick protruding temples with spring hinges for durability and comfort. A straight eyebrow ridge accentuates the assertive character of the design.

E21 in Black Shine – by Kuboraum
The E21 mask by Kuboraum in LTD edition orange – sleek and edgy – the frame is also available in 24h, matt black, black shine, crystal or tortoise

Kuboraum has produced the third journal “We travel To Know Our Own Geography” this season, a free fanzine available to all stores and retailers who stock the collection. The journal offers a comprehensive exploration of Kuboraum’s project and its broader, multifaceted narrative bridging between eyewear, art and music. Find out more at www.kuboraum.com