Uncategorized

Paris notes: what’s coming?

21st September 2016

Bold colour, edgy eye shapes, a mix of exotic combinations and favourite touches of retro….the new trends are emerging as SILMO approaches at the end of the week. The show promises cool eyewear designs by a selection of the leading independent designers who set the agenda for creative trends and artisan quality at an international level.

They include Danish brand Ørgreen who present innovative ophthalmic and sun designs in a campaign by Casper Sejersen. The frames appear on models in a cold, concrete environment where solid surfaces and clean lines resonate simplicity and functionality. Each exclusive design offers the minimal edge of an Ørgreen design with a new colour scheme that embraces the opportunity of innovative finishes in slick titanium. Further details: www.orgreenoptics.com

Based on its masterful award-winning Soupcan design, Tavat launches “TAVAT SoupCan Collection 2.0” – a new extra light edition with pantos and round shapes available in “all-metal” or “combination” versions.

In this new series, TAVAT strives to reinterpret its brilliant design for every-day, all-day wear whilst staying close to the original. SoupCan 2.0 “C” features all acetate temples allowing for more adjustment and has removed a lot of material to give the overall aesthetic a more refined look. The adjustable nosepads and optional clip-on with melanin lenses makes the design ultra-wearable and suitable for all men and women. www.tavat-eyewear.com

British luxury label Finest Seven return to Paris to unveil new sunglasses in their luxurious heirloom collection known for its pristine elegance and well-tuned production which results in a great blend of lightness and design. www.finestseven.com

MIDO 6-8 February 2027. Welcome to Eyewearland

SILMO Paris - The Optical Fair. 25th - 28th September 2026

LOFT Santa Monica Show October 16th and 17th

Timeless and breaking with convention, acetate model Kot from Vue DC shows energy and impact in a characterful shape, highlighting a brilliant upbeat combination of red and black. Made in France, the statement frame is also available in black and white, and two single colours with a polished/brushed finish. www.vuedc.fr

Sometimes classical with a refined colour palette is the most elegant and desirable choice for an eyewear wardrobe in the winter months. Akiko 2 by Face à Face draws its creative inspiration from the expressive qualities of Japanese ‘manga‘, displaying true elegance in its unique assembly of circles and arches. It demonstrates technical flair using a single nylon thread instead of screws. The lightweight aluminium in matt colours adds the exciting contemporary feel. www.faceaface-paris.com

Silmo Paris – the international eyewear and optics fair – takes place from Friday 23rd-26th September at Paris Nord Villepinte. For further details and registration visit www.silmoparis.com CN

Reviews

RVS Hand Made Eyewear

16th September 2016

Vintage overtones with the introduction of painted elements by watercolourist San Siguenza are eye-catching highlights of a new RVS x San Siguenza collaborative sunglasses collection launched in New York this month. Tia, one of two pieces in the special edition is eloquently configured to show the exotic hand-painted colours of a watercolour of Madonna – created as a hologram for a performance during the singer’s 2015 Rebel Heart World Tour.

The link-up between Vidal Erkohen and painter San Siguenza represents the first eyewear edition by RVS produced in Japan. Erkohen, who set up the label in Turkey in 2007, and originally produced hand-finished designs in his own artisan frame company there, is now based in NYC. Passionate about imaginative design and authentic, handcrafted production methods, Erkohen has selected Japanese artisanal expertise to take the collection forward into a new phase for 2017.

An RVS pop-up store is now open, and the big launch night is on 17th September at 312 Bowery, NYC. The collection for those who can’t get there goes online at www.rvseyewear.com on 30th September. CN

Design + Inspiration

Show preview: Silmo approaches

6th September 2016

Expectations are running high for exciting trends, original colour combinations and new-found inspirations for pattern and details. As the international eyewear fair Silmo (www.silmoparis.com) draws near our attention is on the finest sunglass and optical collections, and highlights that spark new beginnings and a fresh perspective for the frame wearer.

At JF Rey, the eyewear design label from Marseille, uplifting colour is the central focus in a visual series entitled Life is Color: the optical frame JF1402 (above) is a new combination of metal and acetate with a casual feminine elegance, and smart easy -to-wear eye shape. Further information at www.jfrey.fr

Australian designer Jono Hennessy always brings warmth and vibrancy to the Paris show. Their preview of frames highlights exotic Mazzucchelli acetates: inspired by the Australian landscape with matt stone finishes, opal like stripes and exciting tones reminiscent of desert sunsets. Pictured is model 8388, a typical example of Hennessy’s magical irridescent colour schemes where the graduated look comes into its own. www.jonohennessy.com

Moondance by MONOQOOL — Moondance by Monoqool

As 3D printing grows in popularity, so are the eyewear collections using this sophisticated technology, which offers endless possibilities for lightweight design and a multitude of colour and shape proposals. Denmark’s Monoqool presents its new collections for Silmo: model Moondance in charcoal grey is lightly textured, finely proportioned, and features the standard screwless hinge in this collection: practical, versatile and designed for a nice fit, Monoqool has a talent for balancing tech with stylish design. More details at www.monoqool.com

Titanium remains a leading material in the metal eyewear selection, both for its excellence in performance and clean minimal aesthetics. A great range of high-end designs in this material have emerged in recent years, bringing about a consistent fine-tuning in terms of the quality, detailing and finish.

The young Italian eyewear company Blackfin, experts in titanium designed with Italian finesse, will show their range of opticals and sunglasses in Paris – the collection favours rounded shapes and unisex designs such as model Saint Martin (BF769), with its arched double bridge and curved lines in a two-tone combination. Available with a natural shiny or satin titanium finish, the model represents an interesting mix of 1980s influences with modern, high-tech appeal. www.blackfin.eu

Inspiration from nature and a desire for intriguing pattern suggests an ongoing interest in creating effects on the surface of the frame, something to watch for at the eyewear fairs: in the new R Collection, young French designer Caroline Abram plays with the effect of natural leather and python on a nylon frame front: model Ruby in bright blue features signature curvy titanium temples teamed with the bold and glamorous butterfly shape. www.carolineabram.com

Silmo Paris – the international eyewear and optics fair – takes place from 23rd-26th September at Paris Nord Villepinte. For further details and registration visit www.silmoparis.com CN

Design + Inspiration

Styles, Rodriguez and Kritikos in Vera Wang

18th August 2016

Vera Wang’s beautiful sunglasses collection pinpoints classical elegance, contemporary detailing and strong shapes that ensure exceptional desirability, and – quite naturally – an excellent celebrity following. Cue Gemma Styles, Krystal Rodriguez, and Aimee Kritikos, influencers with edgy fashion credentials and the ability to mix street style and high-end fashion quite effortlessly.

In the group pictured, Styles (pictured left) wears Wang’s new model Osa, a design that combines the fashionista circular eye shape with a chic interpretation of the double bridge.

Friends Aimee Kritikos (above, centre) and Krystal Rodriguez (above, far right) wear Hesse, a strong, solid oversize black acetate flattop with discreet logo engraving and Lido, the dazzling new zyl cat eye style of the collection, bejewelled on front and sides.

World-renowned fashion designer Vera Wang is known for exquisite taste and a modern approach to feminine glamour and beauty. Her new eyewear releases, translated from the fashion collection, show an exciting twist on current trends and a taste for the dramatic with exotic flourishes of embellishment completing the picture. Find more details on the full collection including models Hesse, Lido and Osa at www.verawang.com / www.kenmarkoptical.com CN

Photo (top) by kind permission of Kenmark Optical

Creative spirits

Brent Zerger – Urban Creative Spirit

16th August 2016

What feeds a Creative Spirit? For Brent Zerger, Director of Communications at l.a. Eyeworks in California, it’s the arts, architecture, eyewear and food! Insightful, curious, blessed with a deliciously wicked sense of humour, and a passionate eyewear advocate, Brent shares his views on life and living with Eyestylist.

Please give us a brief profile about your professional career. “After graduate school, my professional career began in the contemporary art world. I worked for nearly a decade in a curatorial/programming capacity with The Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) here in Los Angeles; also as an independent curator; and as a public art officer helping to oversee the artworks in the MTA transit system of L.A. county. The second big chapter of my career began as the manager of a retail store for l.a. Eyeworks that opened in 2002. I became Director of Communication for the company in 2007 and the story continues!”

What sparked your passion in eyewear? “True story: my passion for eyewear began as a passion for l.a. Eyeworks as a brand. Growing up in the relatively rural Midwest, there weren’t a lot of cultural avenues to explore – and I was hungry! But I remember somehow getting my hands on Interview magazine and taping the l.a. Eyeworks portrait ads to my bedroom wall. I was hypnotised by their glamour, mystery, and incredible energy. That I would one day stand in Greg Gorman’s studio to watch him shoot one of those portraits is such a meaningful completion of a circle for me.”

If you could have been born in another era, what century would you choose, and why? “Truly, there isn’t one I would choose. I’m happy in this time and place. BUT…if I could have misspent my young adulthood in southern California in the 1960’s, I imagine that would have been a very fine thing.”

The dynamic dining scene in L.A: Brent with restaurateur Lien Ta at the opening of Here's Looking At You, her first restaurant in Koreatown, co-founded with chef Jonathan Whitener. — The dynamic dining scene in L.A: Brent with restaurateur Lien Ta at the opening of Here’s Looking At You, her first restaurant in Koreatown, co-founded with chef Jonathan Whitener.

l.a.Eyeworks is based in Los Angeles – do you think the city continues to be an international, inspirational source for art, fashion, etc.? “For many reasons, it’s hard to comprehend the breadth of Los Angeles and the scale of the things that are produced here. It’s a full spectrum show. From the scientific geniuses working at the Jet Propulsion Laboratory to the worst reality TV, from superstars of the art world to Star Wars-branded non-dairy coffee creamer, love it or hate it: what L.A. ‘says’ is incredibly influential. Los Angeles is so engaging to me because it’s constantly reinventing itself with little regard to the past, and an anxious grasp for the future. It can be daring, gorgeous, audacious, and horrible all at the same time. Whatever the case, it’s intensely visual and I love that. At this moment, what’s particularly interesting to me is watching these huge production fields – television, film, music – as they pivot to adapt to the realities of the proliferating on-demand economy. While this dynamic is being felt in every field (including fashion, travel, transportation, and so on), I’m keeping a keen eye on Hollywood because the stakes are so enormous. It’s a sea change of operatic proportions!”

Nowadays, who do you think most influences eyewear styles and market appeal? “I doubt my answers to this question would surprise anyone. Whether it’s celebrities or red carpet designers, or massive ad campaigns by mega-labels, I pay attention…and then I don’t. There’s the influence of those who know how to meet all the expectations, and then there’s the influence of those who startle the world by going their own way. Personally, I’m so much more interested in any person I meet who sees their glasses as a way to stand out from the crowd. I don’t care if the frames came from a yard sale or a boutique; when I see anyone who’s wearing glasses to express their individuality and not their allegiance to trend, that’s when I get excited.”

Brent at an art fair at Paramount Ranch - where many Hollywood westerns were filmed - in front of L.A. based Paul McCarthy's 24-meter inflatable "Tree" sculpture, following its controversial exhibition in Paris on Place Vendôme. — Brent at an art fair at Paramount Ranch – where many Hollywood westerns were filmed – in front of L.A. based Paul McCarthy’s 24-meter inflatable “Tree” sculpture, following its controversial exhibition in Paris on Place Vendôme.

Please select a favourite fashion moment that inspires you. “What comes immediately to mind is the Apollo 11 spacesuit worn by Buzz Aldrin to walk on the surface of the moon in 1969. That helmet with the gold mirrored shield? Now that’s a radical, avant-garde garment! To me, the space suit says everything about the future we’ve come to live: the integration of apparatus and the body, not to mention the role of outfit as a metaphor for the complex relationship between humans and their environment. Right behind that as a close runner-up would be the fishtail gown that Divine wore in John Waters “Pink Flamingos,” which today looks almost like a prophecy!” www.laeyeworks.com JG

Top image: “Los Angeles is a fertile ground for amazing architecture.” Brent attending an event at the Fitzpatrick-Leland House in Laurel Canyon, designed by architect R.M. Schindler (1936). https://makcenter.org The MAK Center for Art & Architecture oversees the Fitzpatrick-Leland House http://www.hereslookingatyoula.com/#hlay