Clean lines and a diamond cut finish, handmade in Japan
The collaboration between Japanese label TVR® and Yamada Mitsukazu®, the eponymous brand of the Japanese craftsman Yamada-san will see a second edition launch this September — Yamada Mitsukasu® x TVR® SERIES 2 French Panto Diamond Cut.
Based on an iconic 1940s French panto shape, the style combines a high hinge and full-bodied base, a detail which creates a wide pantoscopic view for the wearer. Complementing the vintage shape, traditional rivets from the 1920s are added to give an elegant, old-school finish to the fronts.
Distinguished by diamond cut edges that contribute to the clean lines, simplistic 90-degree angle with smooth curves and protruding hinges — the bold and masculine structure is balanced with wide library temples tapering to flared tips.
The upper part of the frame is derived from a square shape, meticulously hand-cut with precision in mind. The use of an 8mm front perfected using the diamond cutting technique also ensures a beautifully flat bridge surface and excellent fit of the temple. The diamond edge finishing is also another feature that’s perfected by Yamada-san himself who has over 60 years of artistry and experience of spectacle-making.
Yamada Mitsukazu® x TVR® SERIES 2 French Panto Diamond Cut is also an expression of ‘East meets West’, where traditional Japanese handcrafted artistry paired with vintage French design. Above: Yamada Mitsukazu® x TVR® SERIES 2
The frame fronts also undergo a special polishing process that lends a certain artisanal handmade quality to each frame. “You can say that the polishing skill is based on my ‘sixth sense’ because it is entirely based on what you see and how you feel. There is a lot of attention in the detail involved in the making of this collection,” explains the master craftsman.
The Yamada Mitsukazu® x TVR® — SERIES 2 French Panto Diamond Cut 2020 edition will be available online and in selected stores in Autumn 2020.The collection comes in four individual colours — Black Diamond, Brown Beer, Olive Crystal and Yellow Crystal — vintage tones which have a true. www.tvropt.com
GIVEAWAY – @eyestylistmagazine (Instagram) today, we’re Giving Away a stunning 1 Pair of TVR 504 glasses (with plano lenses ready to be fitted with lenses at your local optician) – made in Sabae, Japan. Visit our Instagram profile today to take part.
From high-tech sun-clips, combination designs (Polyamide fronts with titanium sides are popular) through to new collections by a healthy number of different types of company, the 3D printed eyewear choices are clearly pleasing wearers. The key properties of lightness and comfort alongside a growing variety of design options point to ongoing growth in this field where evolving design styles and more individualistic looks are now more readily available.
Above: Launched this month : Gotti Switzerland’s refined new sun clip (designed for models DAGO / DALE) – in titanium and 3D printed polyamide, offered in 12 colours and 4 different lens tints – www.gotti.ch
Modo’s 3D Lab collection, announced in June 2020, is the first 3D printed line in this company’s portfolio and is described as utilizing the latest in additive manufacturing. A wide choice of colours and styles are featured as is typical with 3D printed, with preference given to a high-tech matte surface. Temples are produced in beta titanium balancing the Polyamide front and creating – overall – a sleak and minimal finish. Find out more: www.modo.com
Start-ups have also taken a keen interest in the potential of 3D printing in eyewear – and highlight the sustainable production and ease of customization for sizing and fit. We’ve identified a selection of small labels like Liq Eyewear (www.liq-eyewear.es); started initially as a small project by Josep Mateo Muñoz, product designer at Creax Design, a design and innovation studio in Barcelona, the team has taken the line further to launch it online and through opticians – so far in Mallorca, Ibiza, Barcelona and locations in mainland Spain. A modern, cosmopolitan style balances fashion and technology in frames which are easy to wear, and produced “on demand” with reduction in waste. For more of the latest 3D printed product news follow our updates – For our latest review featuring 3D printed sunglasses (Côte du Soleil edition by neubau eyewear) visit: https://www.eyestylist.com/2020/06/maurice-by-neubau/CN
The imaginative, gently curved SOL SOL ITO 031 DP is a frame that combines purity of design with a nod to femininity in its subtle soft lines. A statement shape, launched previously in shiny green, the Swiss independent label has now issued the style in different powerful red versions and a subtle ‘gold brown’ (pictured above) with gold-plated temples and brown temple ends. At a time when neutrals and ‘earthy’ shades such as deep, orange, ochre and clay are trending in fashion, this version in particular has a rich depth of tone that will transition well through autumn.
At Sol Sol Ito, each pair of sunglasses is limited to just 100 pieces worldwide. All the frames have a particular “click-in” temple design, an innovative feature for which design duo Monika Fink and Sandra Kaufmann have received much recognition. The collection is sold widely in fine optical stores including Auerbach & Steele in the UK. For online purchases, Sol Sol Ito’s sunglasses store has launched for the current season and can be found at https://de.solsolito.com/sunglasses Photography for Sol Sol Ito by Hans Hansen.
These particular products are on our wish list for the summer days ahead…
Preparing for staycations, balmy days of summer, moments of quiet relaxation, reflection or just a good read? In our Friday edit this week, we highlight three unique yet simple products that will lift your spirits and sense of well-being in the weeks to come. Above: Morpho + Luna’s silk eye pillow from “Les Irrésistibles” line
1. The “Les Irrésistibles” line of eye pillows makes use of archived fabric from past collections. As with the silk pieces at Morpho + Luna, the pillows are made in Italy from 100% pure silk and filled with meticulously cleaned wheat grown in Lancashire which helps to soothe and relax tired eyes whilst also being gentle on skin. Put a few drops of a favourite essential oil to the inner cotton pillow for added relaxation! https://morphoandluna.com
2. For reading glasses and sunglasses, Frank and Lucie (Netherlands) have updates in their collection, which explore pretty, delicate tones of aquamarine, seaweed and natural “watery” transparencies of ‘laguna’ and ‘morning swim’. Shapes are easy and well-proportioned with panto and round designs inspired by classic spectacles of the past. The collection also features sunglasses for reading and fun new eyewear chains. Find all the latest designs at www.frankandlucie.com
3. Alongside those moments of reading and rest, the Shed SoyCandle is a wonderfully luxurious treat with pure essential oils selected for their therapeutic and calming properties. The high quality scents will add an immediate feeling of wellbeing, while the design is unpretentious and minimal fitting perfectly with any decor – for home or work environments and a perfectly unique and elegant gift. Find our more: www.shedsoycandles.co.uk
The Dublin-based designer shares her lockdown project, ‘Me, myself & eye’
Artist/designer Jen Nollaig developed a colourful collection of intriguing works centered around upcycling old eyewear frames, during the weeks of lockdown in March/April 2020. Nollaig has built a unique niche for herself in customised artworks, and has produced pieces for clients in the UK, NYC and Ireland.
“In lockdown, I needed to anchor my mind to something that made me feel at peace,” she explained, “so I started to do what I love most and create. For me this offers a way to escape; this is what this new collection is inspired by, a personal journey of escapism in isolation, an attempt to capture the current sentiment of the new days and feelings that I am experiencing.” Above: One of the new works: ‘Processing’ is created with layered cocktail sticks, hand painted and finished off with painted compressed polystyrene balls from an old bean bag.
The works in the new series include ‘Eyesolation’ – produced out of a deconstructed diamond belt Nollaig found in a charity shop and customised with ‘googley eyes’ fromher children’s craft box.
For ‘Adjustments have been made’ – the artist says she broke apart old eyewear frames to use as the base and layered crayons and colouring pencils on top.
Previous works by Nollaig with an Xmas ‘glitter’ and ‘bauble’ theme earned her the headline ‘Ireland’s most Christmassy woman’ (Irish Times in 2019). A custom design she created for a client in New York (@happyhappyphoenix) for the Afropunk Brooklyn festival brought the designer attention in WWD and Teen Vogue. Photographs by Jen Nollaig featuring the artist. Follow Jen Nollaig and hew new works on Instagram @jen_nollaig.
@boyfromdagbon x @davidnyanzi shoot with streetwear brand Covrt Project in Piccadilly, London
Out of lockdown, and back on the street: Covrt Project, the emerging British streetwear brand, returns with its first shoot post-quarantine in central London by photographers @boyfromdagbon x @davidnyanzi.
The featured Covrt sunglasses from the award-winning _Mission One collection 2020 include the MP1 style, a black CNC milled steel frame with Base 2 visor lens. The innovative design of the lens is a unique element at the bridge influencing the overall shape of the sunglasses; bolted on with visible screws to the front it’s also cut away at the top and bottom, lightening the structure and creating a different and defining style-driven look.
Covrt Project eyewear is designed by Marcello Martino in London and produced exclusively in Italy. The first collection is available at high-end optical stores in UK, France, Italy and Germany – and online at www.covrtproject.com
Eyestylist.com joins with Covrt Project in a special giveaway on Instagram – from Wednesday 10th June at 9am (GMT). For a chance of winning this pair of award-winning sunglasses, visit our Instagram page at @eyestylistmagazine between 10th and 13th June 2020. For more information: www.covrtproject.com
Eyewear accessories which serve another practical purpose are unique at Beaumour. The Paris brand has tapped into convenience alongside quality, with a nicely balanced design finesse for products which carry a mix of personal essentials.
Above: the collection is produced in naturally dyed leathers. Founder Quentin Stubbe has created timeless artisan-made designs adjusted to the modern lifestyle.
The range includes a card holder glasses case with space for up to 4 credit cards, a compact design made of full-grain natural leather (above).
The lightweight glasses wallet has the appearance of a slim eyewear case – on the inside there is space for eyewear, credit cards and bank notes making it ideal as a way to carry around essentials without the need for several individual accessories.
In the third and final recommendation in our series on creativity on Instagram this week, meet Chiara Veronese @centro_ottico_bastia, a young Italian optician and designer with an eye for style and curated imagery.
Chiara Veronese’s IG profile @centro_ottico_bastia is colourful, personal and full of fun and glamour. With a background in art and graphic design, Veronese took over her father’s optical store in 2016, and has a special passion for independent creative design. “After graduating from the University of the Arts London in 2011 I studied to be an optician in Italy,” she told Eyestylist. ” Today I’m the owner, the manager, the creative, the cleaner: I’m a one-woman band!”
With posts that visualise the beautiful chic style of the shop, as well as Chiara’s personal edit of eyewear, design, fashion and accessories, a few very elegant selfies are also highlighted as part of the styling of this page, demonstrating the unique qualities of the frames in store.
“My IG inspiration is always connected with independent brands and creative individuals,” she says. “I follow many accounts on travel, design and ceramics, and I have a soft spot for Japanese photography and architecture. I’m very attracted to one-off projects, collaborations and hybrid design (useful vs beautiful).”
Asked how she’s faired in lockdown, she says she has tried to see it as a chance to explore creativity within the limits of her home. “For IG I’ve been using only what is immediately available and mundane, everyday objects and settings. I also had the opportunity to experiment with my first, rudimentary posts via IGTV.” Via Veneto 54, Loc. Bastia, 35030 Rovolon PD, Italy. Find out more about Centro Ottico Bastia at the new website:www.centrootticobastia.it
With the expected long-term need for personal face protection in our daily lives against Covid-19 post lockdown, designer Joe Doucet has created a face shield with integrated sunglass lenses and arms – the first of its kind. The studio is currently seeking a brand or eyewear manufacturing partner to produce the unique futuristic design in a collaborative project.
Studies have shown that face shields or visors are much more effective than surgical style face masks, but in their current basic format they are uncomfortable and awkward. Doucet’s design aims to make wearing face protection “more practical and less alien and intrusive on the wearer”, integrating a fashion-forward ‘futuristic’ look more akin to trends in contemporary apparel and fashion in general. The design proposed with polycarbonate shield integrates an anti-fog coating to ensure clear vision when in use.
The design studio hopes that by improving the basic face shield design to a level that creates desirability in the product as an easy-to-wear fashion accessory aligned with sunwear, greater uptake for personal protection can be further encouraged in the weeks and months once lockdown is eased.
Based in New York, Joe Doucet is an award-winning designer, entrepreneur and inventor. After graduating from the Art Center College of Design, Doucet began exporting his vision into product, furniture, environment, and technology to find solutions for daily and societal challenges through design. His work deftly hybridizes function and visual appeal while conveying layers of meaning and message. Doucet believes that design and, more importantly, a designer’s thought process can play a larger role in innovation and problem solving, as well as aesthetics. He currently holds numerous patents for his designs and inventions. Find our more about his work at www.joedoucet.com Photography supplied by kind permission of Joe Doucet. – CN
Putting a maximalist style at the heart of her work, eyewear designer Anna-Karin Karlsson has created a world of eyewear apart from the everyday. Decoration such as carved flowers, exotic wildlife and fantastical bugs and ‘claws’ have featured as embellishments for fronts, temples and bridges in works that highlight extravagant materials (24k gold, white gold and titanium) and immaculate execution.
This season, the collection unfolds with new dramatic sun entries, ‘Shady Luv’ and ‘Too Handsome’ defined by sophisticated forms with minute engraving work and jewellery settings. In 100% Japanese titanium, Shady Luv is hand-set with Swarovski crystals. Each colorway is available in just 100 limited edition pieces. The style is a reminder of the oversized mask shapes of the 00s with single visor lens. Above: Shady Luv, pictured in white gold with Zeiss mirrored lens.
Style “Too Handsome” combines Japanese acetate and titanium with attention to metal detailing and the engraving of AKK lettering. Another Limited edition entry, each colour of this design is produced in less than 50 pieces.
Aviator sunglasses continue to earn their iconic status. They lift and compliment most outfits with extraordinary versatility, a style staple through seasons and activities, from beach to business. The original teardrop silhouette is adaptable for many face shapes – just as much for women as men; it’s recommended if you have an oval, heart or square shaped face, but for the most part, with so many versions and sizes, there’s one for us all.
Independent eyewear labels are exploring the lightweight qualities of the design whilst make subtle changes to aesthetic details, eye shapes, lens colours or technical features to bring the styles a new-found directional elegance.
Above: Berlin-based designer Veronika Wildgruber’s new collection is inspired by geometry, the future and architecture. The Kent frame in the Interspace collection explores a completely new shaping of the lower section of the double bridge. Photo by @kerstinzupan. For more details about designer Veronika Wildgruger visit www.eyewear.veronikawildgruber.com
The LINDBERG 8209 is part of the Air Titanium line with full-rim made entirely of ultralight titanium wire. The frame is vintage inspired and timeless yet fully on trend with a choice of colourful Zeiss sun lenses, ranging from traditional to bold and bright. www.LINDBERG.com
Gotti Switzerland’s new entries for Summer include the very finely structured model Delon, a large shape for men, with a slightly angled rim below the top bridge line. The minimal design is achievable through the expert application of ultralight Japanese titanium. www.gotti.ch
Designer Jean-François Rey plays with colour in acetate in the new JF1494 Urban Collage design. Inspired by the eye-catching tonal palette and details of famous street art in his home city of Marseille and the vibrant bohemian quarter of Cours Julien, Rey applies spectacular acetate materials with mixes of tones and patterns in designs which are literally bursting with personality and French-infused style.
The designs (of which there are 12 in the Urban Collage collection) focus on the careful selection of the materials, the asymmetrical and diagonal lamination techniques – unique signature elements in the range – and the fun and fanciful mix of colours. Various tortoiseshell shades in graphic combinations and contrasting styles add an assertive, distinctive look to the final designs. For more information visit www.jfrey.fr
In an exclusive brand partnership the luxury Tasoni boutiques (Zurich, Switzerland) are releasing three glamorous Lapima sun models with a chic collab “Lapima + Tasoni” logo, discreetly appearing on the inside of the temple. The Brazilian SS2020 sunglasses collection (including models Teresa, Andrea and Joca) is the latest addition at the much-admired Swiss fashion stores which specialise in luxury brands and emerging designers for men and women, curated by sisters Taya and Tary Sawiris – and sourced across the globe. Above: SS2020 Lapima: the model wears model Teresa in mint. The frame has a bold square shape, inspired by 1960s retro sunglasses.
The Andrea, a statement frame in the release, is a unisex piece inspired by scuba goggles, with the distinctive oversized shape based on the aviator. The colours of the shades are inspired by the ocean, ranging from delicate tones of mint, one of our favourite tones of the summer collections, and caramel alongside bold cherry and dark olive green (see Andrea above).
About the brand – Launched by Gisela and Gustavo Assis in 2016, Lapima is based on Brazilian design, with geometriclines that play with light and shadow in frames produced principally in Italian acetate. With backgrounds in dance and sport, the founders are both inspired by movement and aesthetic rigour, which set the path for creating the essence of a novel artisan sunglasses collection. The label is based on and continues to expand through constant experimentation, and proposes pieces which “frame the face” while still evoking a sharp image, filled with contemporary attitude. All Lapima frames are manufactured by artisans in São Paulo, Brazil.
Lapima sunglasses are available at Tasoni, St. Peterstrasse 1, 8001 Zurich (Switzerland) and branches including The Chedi Andermatt. For more information visit www.tasoni.com and www.lapima.com
Cristiana Vannini describes her glasses concept as ‘micro architecture for the face’. The designer and art director of Fassamaneria srl – the company which owns the Milan-based reading glasses brand – has created a unique style of fast reader, worn on a chain or leather cord, specifically for instant tasks such as reading menus or text messages, with a luxurious artisan design – borne out of the Venetian craft tradition.
Created in hand polished Mazzucchelli 1849 acetate, with metal parts in laser-cut German silver, the product combines a beautifully-finished jewellery style with a practical, lightweight – yet sturdy – construction. A choice of 9 colours – including a delicate blue (Capri) and delightful spotted green havana – with variations for men and women, are available with lens strengths of +1 to +3.5 dioptres. Photochromic sun lenses have also been added to the range.
Elegant chains, charms and brooches with cabochons are available to transform the basic design, for those who wish to wear the design as an artistic piece of luxury jewellery. These chic distinctive details come to life in the sophisticated capsule collections by the talented jewellery designers Sharra Pagano and Laura B.
Fassamano was the winner of the Golden A’ Design Award and Competition 2019 in the ‘Jewellery, Eyewear and Watch Design category’, a well-known award which recognises qualities such as innovation and sustainability alongside design excellence. For more information on Fassamano readers and accessories and for the online store visit www.fassamano.com
#THEGOODQUARANTINE Collection by @nina_mur_eyewear – Spanish label is producing its next edition in virtual collaboration with opticians through the lockdown
Nina Mûr founders Lorena Serrano and Davide Fichera have launched a sustainable design project during the coronavirus quarantine – out of their home in Madrid – to share the creation of their next edition of eyewear with opticians. Their aim is to produce something both creative and unique at this unprecedented time through virtual connection with friends and optical partners.
The design duo plans to create five unique collaborative styles in the Quarantine collection – underlining the sustainable concept and production typical of the Nina Mûr brand while bringing together a community of like-minded people to create a human connection and shared ‘creative’ experience beyond the isolation and lonely existence of lockdown. Above: Lorena working from home on lockdown in Madrid (April 2020) – pictured with son Luca
“We will create these glasses with our usual sustainable materials, principally wood, and our usual local production in Madrid,” explains Serrano. “We have asked friends and optician contacts taking part to provide a drawing or a photo of a drawing as a starting point. We have people working on this project around the world, in Japan, France, Italy and the USA. Once the designs are in they will then vote themselves on their favourite designs – we propose to create the most ‘popular’ five styles through this process, once the voting is completed the week after next.”
#TheGoodQuarantine Collection by @nina_mur_eyewear + @nina_more_eyewear with be available for purchase in May 2020. Watch this space to see the collection soon! For more information visitwww.ninamur.com
A pledge to show support of independent retailers in the COVID-19 crisis with donation from online sunglass sales
Young Swiss eyewear label Einstoffen is taking immediate action in light of the global health crisis by donating a percentage of their online sunglasses sales back to their long-term optical partners.
Philippe Rieder told Eyestylist: “We have decided to support our customers in these difficult times as much as our strengths allow. From 18th March to 19th April 2020, 50% of the turnover of each pair of sunglasses purchased online will be credited to the opticians in the town where the purchase has been made.”
“We do not want to benefit at the expense of our partners. Our corrective frames will continue to be available only in specialist shops but we hope that this percentage of our online sunglasses sales could at least help alleviate our customers’ losses in some way…”
This spring, the brand has launched its biggest collection yet: ‘Stand Tall, Run Free’ with 40 new styles in titanium, wood acetate and steel. It celebrates independent minds and free spirits with forward-thinking designs, unusual materials and material combinations, with a focus on easy-to-wear design with the occasional ‘surprising twist’.
‘Stand Tall, Run Free’ stays true to the signature Einstoffen style, mixing natural resources with technical materials and easy-fitting shapes. New eye-catching details include very detailed micro-engravings, sprayed titanium, lenses in multiple colours and tiny wooden inserts. Find out more about the collection at www.einstoffen.ch
EINSTOFFEN is a young eyewear and fashion brand founded in 2008 by four friends from Switzerland. Inspired by nature, art, film and music, the brand has since created shirts, glasses, sunglasses, T-shirts and watches for cosmopolitan individualists with a sense of humour. “In our eyes, eyewear and streetwear, nature and urbanity, Swiss quality awareness and a pinch of extravagance go together very well.”
The eco choices in eyewear continue to widen and neubau eyewear from Austria – one of the young innovative companies focusing on eco-friendly design, has just added to its selection of materials with their own new 100% bio-based ‘natural3D’. A special edition sunglasses collection has been released to show off the fresh relaxed styling and fresh Spring-infused colours available, with 3 models – Romy (above on model), Maurice and Alain.
What is ‘natural3D’? The all-new material, natural3D by neubau eyewear, is created via an innovative and sustainable production process. The surface is skin-friendly with smooth sealed edges and vibrant colour intensity which will not fade. The material is formed using the oil extracted from the castor oil plant’s seeds. The resulting powder derived during this extraction is merged together layer by layer by a laser during 3D printing and any excess material is then reused for additional frames (ensuring zero waste).
neubau eyewear has also launched four new optical styles in the new eco-friendly material, available from April 2020. The frames are named after environmental activists. For mode details visit www.neubau-eyewear.com
Big, colourful and bright! Essedue’s acetate sunglasses for Spring/Summer are for those who love statement design and Italian finesse with quality UV protection. Model 360 has a wide enveloping square-ish shape and a sculpted ‘bevelled’ effect on the front, a charming detail which highlights the artisan skill. www.esseduesunglasses.com/en/product/woman-cateye-sunglasses-mod-360/
Collection 2020: re-edition of ‘favourite styles’ with elegant contemporary finish – a celebration of the sustainable label’s 10th Anniversary
One of eyewear’s innovative ‘treasures’, creative, pioneering, and committed to excellence in design, EOE Eyewear is celebrating 10 years in the optics business with inspirations in art and beautiful, wearable signature eyewear collectibles. Among the re-edition frames, each one updated with special nuances and nature inspired hues, are models Burträsk and Abisko – created in two special editions.
The EOE Eyewear brand started in 2010 when Erik and Emilia Lindmark were taking a snowmobile ride outside the small village of Ammarnas in northern Sweden. The white and softly rolling landscape gave birth to the idea of an eyewear brand that would combine inspiration from the barren nature of Lapland with the fastidious elegance so significant for Scandinavian design.
To mark the special Anniversary, EOE Eyewear has also been developing a special artistic collaboration. Finnish artist, Linda Linko has worked to translate some of the most evocative places and materials of their homeland which have inspired the EOE co-founders Erik and Emilia Lindmark throughout their first 10 years. Her work (above) will appear in packaging and cleaning cloths in 2020.
Burträsk is the cool cateye of the EOE Eyewear “family.” Inspired by Emilia’s grandpa, this dramatic feminine statement frame is now reissued in a new material, made entirely from waste products from inside the EOE Eyewear factory.
The light modified cat’s eye shape of the second Burträsk edition is a wonderfully creative interpretation of this dramatic shape, with a lightness achieved through the open sections above the lenses and the narrow semi-rimless structure of the smooth metal which frames the top rim.
Model Abisko is named after a village located north of the Arctic Circle, a place known for spectacular views of the aurora borealis. The newly updated aviator shape has a very fine chic profile and highlights the U-shape of the Lapponian Gate, a striking element of the local landscape. Produced in a wonderful trendy green tinted titanium, the new edition also has a graduated tinted lens, inspired by the colours of the Northern Lights.
Meanwhile the Abisko Round takes the concept further in an oval eye shape with a uniquely feminine yet minimal design. Inspiration for the subtle delicacy of the light pink-purple lens tone comes from the early morning hues of Lapland’s crisp winter skies.
“All of our frames are sustainably produced and fully recyclable and bio-degradable. EOE of today is considered a pioneer in sustainability. In 2019, we broke new ground when launching REGRIND, a concept which made us the first player in the global eyewear industry to produce new frames made from old ones.” – Emilia Lindmark, EOE Eyewear
Anything goes is the mantra for 2020 in the women’s sunglass collections. In Milan this weekend, blue skies brought out plenty of eyewear chic on the street outside the shows, and a pleasing breadth of designs to pair with outfits and accessories with pride, purpose and precision. Popular styles included the large square-ish tortoise frames, a variety of mini and maxi rimless styles, very large iconic visors, and a consistent fondness for the 1990s looks. Above: Outside the shows at Milan Fashion Week: Mandy Bork wears oversized visor / Fendi FW20. Photo: Gennaro D’Elia / Eyestylist
Vintage-infused styles were popular paired with miniature bags, and a predilection for boyfriend shirts and suits came dressed up with a variety of sunglass statements, from very feminine cat’s eyes to 90s micro “blackouts” which shield the eyes with purpose from the sun (and the cameras).
Fashion blogger “Mascarada Paris” wears quirky oversized sunglasses, a multi-colored top and super baggy boyfriend trousers. (Photo by Gennaro D’Elia/Eyestylist).
A good mix of classic eyewear or vintage-infused shapes in Milan suggests that anything really goes this season! See more of our photos from Milan, Italy on our Instagram page @eyestylistmagazine.Photography by Gennaro D’Elia exclusively for Eyestylist. All rights reserved.
A Japan Edition by the exclusive Fukui label, TVR returns to Milan this month with all kinds of new eyewear treats for special release. They include the Arnel® Alumi Bespoke series, the first vintage style model in the line with Alumi (aluminium) temples combined with a 6mm Zylonite front. The Arnel® Alumi design has a three-dimensional line effect on the temple which also offers lightness and corrosion-resistance. Above: Alumi Bespoke in matt marmalade with light grey Alumi.
Frames featuring aluminium were popular in the 1940s and 1950s. TVR® has perfected the material by adding an additional coating, ensuring it is scratch-proof and elegantly finished with vivid colours. The aluminium construction makes the frame extremely durable and tough while providing a sleek all-metallic look.
The Alumi Bespoke frame, the shape of which is inspired by the classic James Dean horn-rim shape, is available five colour combinations and a new greenish-blue clip with polarised sun lenses. The design is the exclusive work of the master craftsman Sawada Yaemon from Sabae, Japan. www.tvropt.com
Eyestylist returned to Algha Works, London – the home of classical British eyewear
Behind the memorable doors of Algha Works, an historic artisan eyewear factory now surrounded by new builds and wastelands in the East End of London, are some of Europe’s most highly skilled craftsmen and women, making spectacles the traditional way, through years – in some cases decades – of dedication to the meticulous craft.
The building itself has stood the test of time. In 1940, a bomb exploded just outside on Smeed Road and it was described as a miracle that Algha Works – and its extraordinary collection of German-made machinery and specialised tools survived. Today, within the factory’s distinctive graffitied walls, lies a complex artisan operation that remains much as it was in the ’30s, historic and infused with a deep heritage which has brought it consistent recognition and loyalty from customers around the world.
Preserving the most classical forms and constructions, delicately tweaked for the contemporary wearer, each of the Savile Row rolled-gold styles today continues to be produced in the old fashioned manner with numerous steps to achieve a final “bespoke-finished” product. Model Beaufort exemplifies the ultimate signature panto shape of the Savile Row collection, worn by a host of well-known faces such as Harrison Ford (as Indiana Jones) and Johnny Depp. Typical of the styles in the line, the frame comes in a choice of gold or rhodium with a choice of colour for the Windsor rim, typically black, chestnut, tortoise or blond. https://savileroweyewear.com/retailshop/beaufort
The Savile Row Panto is unequivocally a star in the collection, worn famously by John Lennon as well as Eric Clapton (the Diaflex Panto version). Engravings, which elevate the unique finish of these retro-infused spectacles, can be applied to parts of the frame such as the bridge (illustrated above) – the operation to create such a delicate and ornate patterning is precise and requires particular expertise – using the very same machines that were brought from Germany many decades ago. Link to The Panto online:https://savileroweyewear.com/retailshop/panto For more details about Savile Row Eyewear visit www.savileroweyewear.co.uk
The UK’s showcase destination for eyewear fashion, 100% Optical, took place last weekend, at the well-known trade venue ExCel in East London. This British trade event for the optics industry presents a cross-section of technical products with a slew of seminars, debates and educational lectures for optical retailers, alongside a broad eyewear fashion “overview” where big and small brands present their lines, side by side.
Among hundreds of different types of eyewear showing across the hall, the creativity, design focus and innovation of the frame industry comes through in the representation of independent labels at the fair; their presence was widened in the 2020 edition with the addition of a small shared section dedicated to emerging talent: Covrt Project (London), Nina Mûr (Madrid), Lunettes Alf (Paris), Lowercase (NYC) and Manu Torres Atelier (Galicia) were particular highlights for lovers of finely crafted, spectacles and sunglasses.
Above: Lowercase from NYC was one of the notable additions in an area dedicated to small labels and newcomers. Built out of a love for eyewear and an appreciation for craftsmanship, Lowercase was established in 2016 by Gerard Masci and Brian Vallario. The team founded the company “with a mission to once again localize the trade of eyewear to the US. Every pair of Lowercase frames is made in the Brooklyn workshop from start to finish….”
Key colours: Across the show, the freshest statement colours that popped up time and again were bright canary yellow, Pantone “colour of the year” classic blue, and light purple/lilac – with several very pale interpretations of lilac through to pastel pink. The Alium collection by FACE A FACE (above) which combines extremely well aligned technical properties for comfort and longevity offered a mix of vibrant, on-trend colorations with a particularly stunning intensity. www.faceaface-paris.com
Nina Mûr from Madrid has a consistent and broad range of eyewear concepts – some created as collaborations. The label is focused on good quality and distinctive design and produces its collections in innovative and sustainable materials – predominantly wood with an artistic palette of tasteful, quality colour finishes. www.ninamur.com
The French label Morel was also exhibiting at 100% this year. Morel’s expertise in minimal styling takes a new aesthetic twist with pretty seasonal colours and two-tone ideas in the S/S range. The hexagonal shaping of Morel model 30182L combines with the bold graduated transparent shade of blue, and a delicate soft pink, perfect for a lighter look for Spring. Find out more at www.morel-france.com
The annual RCA competition was won by Ely Yili Cao, Womenswear (Millinery) for her piece entitled ‘Your sight, sound and smell, my love.’ 100% Optical will take place at Excel London in 2021 from 23rd to 25th January 2021. For details visitwww.100percentoptical.com. Feature written by Clodagh Norton exclusively for Eyestylist.com.
The first trade show of the year – opti 2020 – set the stage for what’s to come, with packed halls proposing a huge variety of niche eyewear labels, iconic brands and high-profile fashion brands – from around the world.
Our personal highlights at the show will be featured in the weeks to come. They included the new face scanning app at the German 3D printed brand You Mawo and a variety of collection launches that were innovative and impeccably produced. We have much to say on new colour, style directions and design trends, as well as having identified some impactful Limited Editions from California, Marseilles and Milan.
The beautifully curated opti BOXES cater to those who wish to explore emerging collections. Participants of note in this area included from France, Lunettes Alf, from the UK, Covrt Project (winner of the Newcomer Award at the fair), from Italy, Beate Leinz, and from Israel, Tough Character. Above: Leinz Eyewear by Berlin based eyewear designer, Beate Leinz. The collection, which is the designer’s first eponymous line, is presented under the concept of ‘contrasts and hybrids’. The frames feature two contrasting materials – acetate and and polyamide, achieving a mix of traditional Italian craftsmanship with high-end Belgian technology, created and coordinated from Berlin. www.leinzeyewear.com
Lunettes Alf was present in the opti BOXES. This young French brand is attracting much interest from top level European independent stores who identify with its beautiful classical focus on restrained colours and shapes inspired from the past. www.lunettes-alf.com
Coblens Eyewear from Germany showed its latest titanium styles and a chic new line in Japanese acetate paired with titanium temples called Stadtgarten, coming into stores this season. The Coblens collection has expanded dramatically with intricate finishing and colorations and very elegant shapes in the Endlos “rimless” series. See the latest styles at www.coblens.com
We were delighted to see a new theo frame family for January 2020, inspired by the powerful beauty of the contours and folds of sand dunes around the world. Tottori (above) – named after a dune system on the North West coast of Japan – is one of five shapes in this group of designs that explore soft sloping forms, steep angles and delicate dips. www.theo.be
Neon Berlin showed their new 3d printed collection on an impeccably stylish sustainable exhibition stand that packed into two small hand held boxes – for easy transportation by train. The brand is consistently creative with their style and DNA and explore new materials, groundbreaking manufacturing methods as well as sustainable concepts – an area that was a particular focus at the opti fair this year. Find out more at www.neonberlin.com
In 2021, opti takes place from 8th to 10th January in Stuttgart, Germany. To find further details about the new location visitwww.opti.de
Globally known as the ‘kings of customisation’ and the go-to fashion tech company for all things personalised including apparel, footwear and accessories, YR was launched seven years ago by Welsh school friends, Tim Williams and Tom Hogan. The company has worked with a wide spectrum of brands, as well as high-profile fashion labels – Michael Kors, Nike and Ralph Lauren are among their client list – and has offices in New York, LA, Hong Kong and Tokyo. They are on course to turnover £10m this year. Eyestylist spoke to Tim Williams, Co-Founder.
Customisation continues to be a very hot topic in fashion. Can you outline how YR started and how the business has evolved? We started in 2013 as a custom fashion brand – a consumer brand that enabled anyone to come into a YR store and easily create designs on tees, sweatshirts and accessories and then watch as they were printed in just a few minutes. We were very early adopters of experience first retail – no printed inventory in the store, so everything was made on-demand, and the whole theatre and excitement of creating the item and then seeing it come to life live, in-store was really something unique.
YR opened multiple stores all over the world – but sadly it was a difficult business, none of us were experienced at fashion retail and it was tough without serious investment. So, we repositioned what we did and went B2B – helping other brands bring on-demand and customisation to life in-store, at events or online. Now we have 5 offices in London, LA, New York, Tokyo and Hong Kong and work with brands on all manner of projects – big and small – all over the world. It’s quite the evolution!
You have worked with global fashion retailers including DKNY, REEBOK and L’Oreal. What has been your most exciting creative project to date? That’s a really hard question and actually the answer is, the most creative time was when YR was a consumer brand. It was exciting that we could make decisions and release artwork packs and see how customers liked them, with live feedback talking to them and seeing their reactions. We worked with some great artists in our London stores; one personal favourite was LA illustrator Bob Motown who loves pizza and cats. Commercially my favourite creative project was working with Liberty where we brought Liberty prints to life on scarves and t-shirts in the iconic London store. Customers could use the patterns to make new designs and add their own touches, it was really incredible to be able to delve into the archives.
Are you a creative or a tech geek? Who brings the creative direction to YR? I think I am creative, it would be hard not to be and get where we are. But, I don’t think its either/or when it comes to tech – there are plenty of creative techie people. I guess I am one of them, I understand the technology but also have a love of creativity, art and design. My business partner and long term friend, Tom, is both creative and highly technical – so not only is Tom heading up our software side but he also drives the creative concept of the business alongside me.
What is your view of how this direction in customisation will further evolve? Made-to-order, bespoke and custom products date back hundreds of years – the great tailoring tradition used to be the preserve of the rich and now, YR, and many others are working hard to make customisation and ‘one of one’ manufacture a reality for mass goods. So I think this is just the beginning. Evolution will take many forms – today, in-store you use touchscreens to make or tweak designs, maybe that will be more gesture or voice-controlled in the near future. The production techniques are moving forward rapidly as machine manufacturers understand this new need for smaller, more nimble machinery. I think there are lots of new production techniques and customisation options on the horizon, not previously possible. Jewellery and accessories are a large area that has a lot of potential. I think 3D printing will come of age and be quicker and better than ever. More importantly, I think consumers will cherish their custom made products more than ever as we strive to have less ‘stuff’ but better and more meaningful relationships with clothing and accessories. The future is exciting!
As a company, with offices far afield, what is your key focus? Is sustainability something you think about? Of course, the global nature means there are some elements of travel that are not good for the environment. That is an issue for us as a business. But, we are enabling a more sustainable future – one reason is the answer above – we want consumers to fall in love with their items and cherish them, something that bespoke and customisation really encourages. As we start 2020 on-demand production and a move away from just customisation is key for YR. That means that instead of a customer choosing a pre-made item, the item is made just for them when they want to buy it. This hugely reduces waste and eliminates stockpiles over time. Sustainability and reduction in oversupply is a key reason we do what we do – we are working alongside some of fashion’s biggest brands to make them more sustainable whilst improving the customer experience.
What inspires you personally? I love building the company and doing something that people love. At YR we put our team first, which means we grow and learn and get better, together. That’s inspiring. Also, I love new ways of doing things and being creative with finding solutions. I’m passionate about turning the traditional business model of fashion on its head and I am constantly inspired by the people I meet.
Do you enjoy being in the fast lane of the new directions in fashion and on demand production? Sometimes. Ha. That’s the truth, really. It’s great when it’s great, but being in the fast lane or on the leading edge of anything opens you to issues and there is no proven path for what we are doing. That can cause customers to have very high expectations – which is not always fun. However, for the large part, it’s great – thinking we have helped shape a market that didn’t exist before us (in-store design via large screens) is interesting. Having our tech running all over the world feels good, and most of the time cancels out the stress of the demanding side of being in the fast lane. Find out more at https://thisisyr.com
2020 will be a year that celebrates timeless classics in eyewear, frames that work with traditional forms and shapes, in high quality materials with an attentive respect for artisan techniques and meticulous hand finishing. In a series focusing on classic style in 2020, Eyestylist will highlight notable new labels and icons of eyewear through the year.
The past few years have seen a flow of new artisan eyewear labels, fascinated by quality, traditional spectacle-making processes and an aesthetic that updates classic design with delicacy and style. One of the finest and latest to arrive in France is Lunettes Alf, who launched their first line in early 2018. “Whether sun or optical, alf glasses are synonymous with high quality,” say co-founders and brothers, Germain and Alexis. Above: introducing new shapes for 2020.
Alf frames are inspired by the early decades of the 20th century, and more specifically the elegance of the rimmed spectacles of the 1920s to the 1950s with beautiful yet restrained colorations, and hand polished surfaces with an eye-catching shine. Designed in Paris and made in Normandy in France, the frames are identified by a small red thread woven by hand into the end tip – a reminder of their artisan provenance and alf’s dedication to quality and considered design.
Lunettes Alf will show their full collection including four new styles at opti 2020 (10th to 12th January 2020) in the opti BOXES (www.opti.de), an area dedicated to new and emerging trendsetters. Their collection is now available in 50 independent optical stores.
About the brand – Alf is a French family business, created in early 2018. Alexis has worked in optics for many years and trained at l’École des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France Lunetiers. Germain is an expert in business and works within the luxury sector in France. Designed in their Paris studio and made in Normandy, Lunettes Alf use Japanese acetate and mineral photochromic lenses in designs with a classical elegance, respectful of tradition with a clean, simple aesthetic and predominantly sober, clean lines. Find out more at www.lunettes-alf.com
Iconic designers side by side with emerging cutting-edge labels and the innovators of the industry: the first opti Munich of the new decade takes place this weekend from 10th to 12th January and will provide an exceptional overview of eyewear trends and innovations, with packed halls featuring over 600 exhibitors presenting themselves and their new offerings.
Pushing forward with their long-term commitment to sustainability – one of the most talked about topics in fashion as the new year begins – Swedish innovators EOE Eyewear will present their frame edition made from old eyewear – Regrind. Also showing is the new EOE biodegradable acetate collection – named after Swedish slang words, which has a new ‘chunky-effect’ design expression, and the latest intriguing styles in the Titanium collection. Two of those frames, Krycklan and Ramsan, have a unique design detail which allows jewellery to be attached and suspended as a decoration at the temple. The jewellery pieces are handmade in Stockholm and produced in recycled silver with a tiny gemstone from Swedish Lapland. Find out more details about EOE at www.eoe-eyewear.com
Res/Rei is heading to the fair with new thin acetate designs fitted with multicolored gradient lenses, a tempting glimpse of what’s coming for summer. The touch and feel of the brand’s beautiful styles for the season are key to understanding their artisan quality and refinement. The company has just announced that a new collection will also be released at the show. Watch this space! www.resrei.com
SALT. Optics will show the latest additions in their main line for 2020 and beautifully finished ‘made in Japan’ acetates launched in collaboration with Second/Layer – the Californian fashion brand. The quality and finish of these designs owes much to the brand’s impeccable attention to detail and ‘best in class’ Japanese production. www.saltoptics.com
Spectacle Eyeworks travel to Munich from their hometown of Vancouver. Designer Mehran Baghaie combines stainless steel and acetate in his latest designs which balance inspiration from nature, history and indigenous art. Founded in 1996, this small independent eyewear company has stood the test of time maintaining creativity and technical precision in its lines with bold ideas in shape and colour. Their success and innovative endeavours continue. See the latest designs at www.spec-eyeworks.com
For anyone looking for classy newcomers, Covrt Project promises a new style of eyewear for connoisseurs of street style. The 2020 sunglasses collection _Mission One balances technical details and an authoritative fashion style born in London and realised (according to exacting levels of production) in Italy. The brand exhibits its sunglasses and eyewear accessories for the first time in the opti Boxes. Find out more at www.covrtproject.com
opti – the international trade show for optics & design, takes place at Fairground Munich from 10th to 12th January, 2020. Registration is open to trade visitors at www.opti.de. Written by Clodagh Norton.
While anticipation rises in December for what’s to come, it’s also a good time to look back at what’s caught our eye…here are five frames by independent designers we think you’ll remember for some time to come. To see more of our selections visit our Reviews at https://www.eyestylist.com/category/reviews/
Kirk and Kirk have been flying the flag for colourful eyewear yet again in 2019 and their tones of hot pink and fuchsia or elegant sage (above, cat’s eye model Esme in the Centena collection in sage – https://www.eyestylist.com/2019/03/kk-expressive-video-centennial-celebration/) have helped pave the way for another brightly colored year of independent eyewear in 2020. Model Jasmine in the Spectrum collection was also a particularly outstanding statement design in eye-popping hot pink and we’ve spotted it in stores, far and wide. www.kirkandkirk.com
You Mawo produce made-to-measure 3D printed frames with everyday qualities such as lightness and comfort and a style that is minimal and modern. Alongside the collection they produce some spectacular limited editions – Malina, from early 2019 (featured by Eyestylist at https://www.eyestylist.com/2019/02/you-mawo-limited-edition-malina/) was inspired by the Inuits and has a narrow oval lens shape with eye-catching black Polyamide rim. Find out more at www.youmawo.com
Mask A1 ‘Pretty Vacant’ in the Sid Vicious Capsule is one of eight terrific, creative, rebellious frame designs decorated with safety pins, spikes, metal studs and stacked piercings, achieved through very committed artisan techniques and carving, burning and painting, turning the surfaces “into raw foundations of graffiti splashed walls” to echo the Sex Pistols’ lyrics. This Kuboraum collection is outstanding, good fun, and one of several series we’ve had an eye on this season. www.kuboraum.com
Bocca Song is a titanium frame by FACE A FACE. The Bocca frames are well known for wearing shoes or boots, and on this occasion the boot design is achieved with a cut-out design. The detail makes a perfect companion to the double upper rim of the front which provides a flattering “airy” look when worn on the face. A truly unique design from Pascal Jaulent. www.faceaface-paris.com