Tavat Eyewear continues to prove that ingenious tech innovation is a lasting, winning trait in eyewear. Their SoupCan concept, launched in 2015 (at the Mido eyewear fair, Milan) and inspired by 1930s goggles, continues to achieve an ideal balance in the benefits of the “sandwich” style technical construction with rimlock closure. It also offers a completely different finish and feel to the design which is comfortable, durable and fresh in style.
Launched in 2019, the Hexad in the Soupcan collection is offered in a range of colours suited to all tastes. They include classic matt black, bond blue horn and champagne, all beautiful and unique for the new season.
The frames are made in Italy and feature a long list of tech details from tiny watch-crown screws to comfy hypoallergenic nosepads; the metal temples are laser etched for a decorative touch and some styles benefit from ultra scratched hand finished surfaces which provide a tactile feel to the material and a subtle texture. Tavat’s frames in the SoupCan collection are the expression of a rare and innovative approach to functionality and style in product design and the refreshing aesthetic is ideally suited to those who seek something different beyond the ordinary designer frame. See more colours in the SoupCan collection at https://tavat-eyewear.com/eng/prodotto/hexad-sc041-ov / https://tavat-eyewear.com For more about Tavat click on the link: https://www.eyestylist.com/2018/10/tavat-eyewear-pantos-18k-gold/ CN
Big is definitely beautiful when it comes to square frames. This shape has re-emerged in 2019 with bold retro-inspired depth and bulkiness – or a minimalist airiness – in a choice of ingeneous colorations, that beg to be worn as modern statement pieces.
Above: Essedue model Ecstasy in grey from the Italian label’s Prima collection, a handfinished line produced in a family factory in Irpinia near Naples. Prima sunglasses by Essedue are available direct from the Essedue website atwww.esseduesunglasses.com
Frames with a classic retro flair are an easy bet for all-year-round styling, and the square designs are already being hyped for SS2020. Model Fuz from Oliver Goldsmith is one that has inspired many other sunglass designs. First created in London in 1966, the frame is still constructed with bold bevelled edges and paddle temples – and comes in lots of new colorways including black leopard (above) and black cherry. www.olivergoldsmith.com
The UK label Kirk & Kirk always delivers a classic shape with a unique twist. The Percy is one of their acrylic optical styles in the Centena collection, providing a magnificently bold silhouette with the flash of transparent colour that lights up the face. www.kirkandkirk.com
In contrast, Finest Seven brings on the square with a special super fine structure. Their oversized Zero 09 has a large squareish lens with a neat double bridge. The frame is made of stainless steel wire and fitted with 100% UV 400 high quality Italian lenses. For more details visit www.finestseven.comCN
If you’ve never before tried pastel tones, the coming season is a good time to explore their beauty. In eyewear, transparent crystal, with just a dash of colour, has become an ideal companion for contemporary apparel, with soft pink, mint, blue or grey (on-trend now) infused in the acetate with subtlety and modern appeal.
In tune with the mood, independent brand Lowercase has unveiled a set of modern tones in their made-in NYC collection, where mint green – a gorgeous hue in sync with the neo-mint palette – and tones like saffron are ideal choices for now – and months ahead.
The Mono-glass is part of RCA fashion graduate Yi Wen Lim’s SOFT POWER project (RCA 2019). SOFT POWER celebrates women at work and represents a new image of power and femininity.
RCA Fashion (Womenswear) graduate Yi Wen Lim has produced a stunning, wearable Mono-glass as part of a finals project entitled SOFT POWER. The jewellery collection was designed in collaboration with Yi Wen Lim’s close jeweller friend Agatha (Instagram: @raccoonandbabiesofficial), and explores re-appropriating jewellery in the formal workplace. Above: Model Mercedes von Thun-Hohenstein wears Yi Wen Lim’s design
Highlights in the collection include the merging of power pearls with everyday work accessories, stationery and tech wearables – these pieces include a biro pen cap ear cuff, Airpods pearl necklace, ID Badge necklace and the Mono-glass with Hair-clip.
“The Mono-glass is inspired by work glasses that women wear, sometimes as a means to establish their intelligence and competence,” says the designer. “It is also inspired by tech accessories like the Google Glass, which perhaps can one day be integrated into more ‘aestheticised’ designs like the SOFT POWER Mono-glass,” she explains.
Yi Wen Lim’s friend/muse Mercedes von Thun-Hohenstien (www.mercedesvonthun.com) wore the monocle design at the RCA finals presentation in London in June – and immediately caught our eye. “I found her through Instagram @mvthun21,” said Yi Wen Lim. “She is a mature model, and has been very generous with her time and support for me. She has modelled for my presentations and for video and photoshoots. We have become close over the past few months, and we are now great friends.” For more information about Yi Wen Lim’s work visit her page on Instagram – @__wenlim. Other RCA posts on Eyestylist: https://www.eyestylist.com/2016/12/rca-x-100-optical/CN
US fashion label Zac Posen has a new selection of optical frames for women, mixing soft, carefully paired colorations and materials such as acetate and metal with the couture designer’s creative expression and precision detailing. The collection includes ophthalmic model Renata, an excellent example of a wearable, feminine cat eye, produced in a classic combo of metal + acetate with the metal layered behind the acetate of the top brow and bridge – as well as at the hinge.
Available in classic black (top image), plum tortoise and tortoise (above), this frame is a super all rounder for women who like the style of a cat’s eye with subtle hints of colour and simple paired back detailing – a feature of the collection overall which is carefully linked to Posen’s glamorous fashion pieces and unique signature style. To view more Zac Posen frame styles in this 2019 selection, visit www.kenmarkeyewear.comCN
The shift towards eco trends and sustainability is a continuing story in eyewear, with many new examples of eco-friendly innovations, greater sustainable focus in companies or more focused recycling endeavours in product and packaging.
One of the latest to launch is art initiative + e-commerce platform “One. All Every.” who has teamed with RVS Eyewear and Ugo Rondinone to launch See A Clean Future, a line of colorful sustainable sunglasses, designed to raise awareness of environmental issues and climate change. The collection debuted at Design Miami in Basel Switzerland (the booth was made from wood and earth, pictured above) and is available for a limited period until June 2020.
The frames consist of the innovative materials from the Italian Mazzucchelli company using their M49 bio-plastic, which is eco-friendly, recyclable, and biodegradable. The bioplastic is produced from cotton linters and wood fibers, which are purified into a pulp and then transformed into a resin known as M49. (www.mazzucchelli1849.it)
All metal inlays as well as temple hinges in the sunglasses are made of a recyclable stainless steel. The steel is coated with ion plating which protects the surface and allows the engraving of the frames. Ion plating is a physical vapor deposition process that uses concurrent or periodic bombardment of the substrate with aluminium, which is recyclable and non-toxic to the environment.
The sunglass lenses revert back to the traditional use of glass. According to the project directors, glass lenses are not only more environmentally sustainable but also ensure precision clarity and a refined aesthetic.
Artist Ugo Rondinone’s designs are applied to the case and box containers, which are made from recycled cardboard and eco-friendly paper, made in London. Additionally, exhibition and furniture design at Design Miami consist of non-toxic and bio materials. The project supports the work of the Jane Goodall Institute, the Green Belt Movement and the E.O. Wilson Biodiversity Foundation. For more information: www.oneallevery.comCN
Sculptural pieces such as those in the Bocca collection are rare and intriguing. The frame named Bocca 20s1 is part of the 2019 collection by Creative Director Pascal Jaulent, a line that is delicate, colourful and always whimsical, with temples wearing miniature shoes of many cute varieties.
“Sometimes a detail is nearly invisible when transparent, while other times it is highlighted when colourful,” explains Jaulent of the seductive, eye-catchin styling direction. “The manner in which light and colour intertwine is truly captivating.”
The 20s1 model is one of the styles in the range inspired – in every precise detail – by the Art Deco movement. A thin highlighted line is visible over the brow, echoed in the coloration of the sculpted ‘shoes’ at the temple ends. For more Bocca styles, in acetate and metal, visit www.faceaface-paris.comCN
The two year old Kensington optical boutique The Eye Establishment continues to lead the way in bringing fine eyewear collections to their local community – with an astutely curated selection of brands from around the globe – and the best optical parties in town. Located in a busy street near Earl’s Court, the shop itself stocks frames by L.G.R, Garrett Leight, Celine, DITA and Japanese label Eyevan 7285, among others. They have a beautiful selection of chains by Frame Chain, the trendsetting British accessories brand who have turned the eyewear chain into a must-have fashion staple. Photography by Cesare Riccardi for Eyestylist.com. All rights reserved.
Last week’s party brought together guests and regular customers for a full showing of the Garrett Leight Collection (GLCO) for Spring/Summer. The LA-based brand has sparked particular attention this season thanks to appearances by Leonardo DiCaprio and Brad Pitt at Cannes in their sunnies (Beach Sun and Calabar Sun) for the premiere of Quentin Tarantino’s Once Upon a Time…In Hollywood.
Unisex designs with a square shape and graduated lenses, cat eye silhouettes and quirky multi-sided shapes like the Jacqueline Sun (pictured above) were a big hit with guests. The crystal acetate sunnies are also doing well for the summer, particularly when paired with colorful lens tones of pink, blue or berry. Vintage touches lend a touch of old-school design, which everyone seems to love, with features like a defined keyhole bridge adding style and a comfortable fit.
The Eye Est. is run by Nadeem Rob and his wife, Fahmida Kamal. For more details about testing at the Eye Est. and to purchase frames online visit: www.eye-est.com. California party design exclusively for The Eye Est. by the Event Builders @theeventbuilders. Eyestylist.com thanks the Eye Est. for a warm welcome at their summer event.CN
The Iconic Series-4001 In Collaboration With Stephanie Pfriender Stylander – featuring Kate Moss
Christian Roth’s reissue of Series-4001, the dramatic, otherworldly eyewear silhouette that defined the look of a decade as featured by Kate Moss in 1992 comes as no surprise.
Interest in the Series-4001 soared with the publication of “The Untamed Eye,” a fashion monograph released by photographer Stephanie Pfriender Stylander in September last year. The book’s cover features a black and white photograph of Moss, then 17, and a relatively unknown talent; she is lifting the Series-4001 sunglasses over her eyes to reveal a gaze that has since graced an unprecedented number of magazine covers and fashion campaigns.
“Kate, during her early years, had an innate magic mix of vulnerability, curiousness and determination,” Pfriender Stylander recalls. “When I shot these pictures, we were at the beginning of our careers. We were young and unknown, and the story plays homage to that — romanticizing this period of youthful innocence.” The story, commissioned by Harper’s Bazaar Uomo, was one of Moss’s first fashion editorials, and quickly set the tone for the gritty, restless style that became synonymous with the early 1990s.
The successful launch of “The Untamed Eye” inspired Christian Roth and business partner, Eric Domege, to collaborate with Pfriender Stylander on a reissue of the style from the cover. “Stephanie’s photographs are nearly three decades old, but the ideas and emotions they capture — young love, rebellion, curiosity — are timeless,” Roth explains. “After speaking about her work and its significance to our label’s heritage, it was clear that the time had arrived to share a piece of our history with a new generation.”
It’s not on the scene quite yet in a big way outside Portugal, but the young 26 year old designer of Poente Eyewear, who represents the 4th generation in a family of eyewear producers is taking care to develop his label in line with an artisan family tradition. “I’m 26 years old,” says Bernardo Romão. “I was born and raised in Lisbon. I’m a designer and the owner of the emerging label.”
Poente, meaning sunset in Portuguese, is inspired by a fresh and youthful aesthetic and lifestyle. The products are handmade in Portugal, using high quality Mazzuchelli acetate with Carl Zeiss Vision lenses.
“We are working with dynamic people…designers, artists, street artists, filmmakers, photographers and writers. Our collection has a strong feeling of classic eyewear design, with a modern, forward-looking approach to presentation and style. We already have some special stockists including Optica do Sacramento (Lisbon), M Oculista (Lisbon) and Optical Boutique (Porto).” The focus is now on expanding further afield.
Poente Eyewear produces handmade acetate optical frames and sunglasses, made exclusively in Portugal in line with traditional production techniques and family traditions. Find out more about Poente Eyewear atwww.poente.ptCN
Studio Edwards designs flagship store for Vision Studio, Melbourne, Australia
A gallery-like space invites visitors to engage with and discover the Vision Studio store, located in Melbourne, Australia. Studio Edwards designed the concept with an aluminium perforated facade that hinges open to reveal a luxurious interior displaying eyewear by brands such as Dior, Dita, Mykita, LINDBERG and Thom Browne. The displays on the inside give space to 200 pairs of glasses set on shelving with storage for a further 800 pairs of glasses.
The space has an angular plan configuration with the areas requiring most privacy to the rear and semi private consulting spaces tapering to the front.
The side walls are lined with translucent display shelving which appears to float above the pastel coloured cabinets – visually connecting to the mall outside through gaps to each side of the aluminium facade.
The materials have been cleverly juxtaposed – brash New York marble is set off against the sheer pastel matt surfaces while translucent solid surfaces sit next to raw concrete and slithers of raw aluminium.
According to the designers, the store has been conceived as a physical extension of the Vision Studio brand. They worked closely with the client and graphic designer Louie Quilao to create and refine the final design. For more information: www.visionstudio.com.au / www.studio-edwards.com CN – Photography by Tony Gorsevski
At the Royal Opera Arcade Gallery in London this week, a new exhibition by Athena Anastasiou offers personal insights into the true face of South America, exploring how indigenous culture and global diversity has influenced the people of today. Through interviews and portraits of many nationalities along the journey, she culminates her own visual interpretation, uniting contemporary people with their native indigenous history.
Above: The artist pictured with ‘Bringing the Past to New Horizons – Oil Wool and Acrylic Yarn on Linen’
In a journey of discovery, she found vibrant people and societies far richer, more diverse, energetic and eclectic spectrum of influence than she ever imagined.
The portraits in this series offer a vibrant expression of colour, pattern, form and texture with bold use of interwoven fabric and multicolored yarns, referencing the artisan crafts and traditions of the Latin American cultures which live on today. www.roa-galleria.com / www.athenaanastasiou.com
The Royal Opera Arcade Gallery, 1-2 Royal Opera Arcade, Pall Mall, London (until 18th May 2019).
An eyewear store with the feel of a creative gallery, Optik Studio is located in Luxembourg city. An exclusive stockist in the country for 90% of the brands it carries, their goal is to make people discover how beautiful designer eyewear can be. “We’ve tried to do something different,” explains Maxime Drouna. “Our brands come from all over the world…France, Italy, Japan, Germany, Spain… and each of them has its own universe: you won’t see the same frame in two different collections; we are conscious that we must cover every trend.”
At present the mix includes Pugnale Eyewear, La Petite Lunette Rouge, L.G.R Sunglasses, Meg Eyewear, Mr Lenoir, and Masunaga. “There are a few more that we shall be launching shortly,” says Drouna who is passionate about original design.
In keeping with the collections, the interior of this store is elegant, understated and comfortable. “We have two little spaces where we can welcome our clients with a cup of coffee. It’s then our priority to find the right pair of glasses for every face. We don’t have large tables or dazzling lights. Instead when you visit, we would like you to feel at home.” Optik Studio is also offering a successful service for home and office appointments. For further details find the shop on Instagram @optikstudio.lu. 20 Rue Beaumont, 1219 Luxembourg – CN
London’s choice of eyewear and independent design brands is rising quickly. Several new optical stores have opened across the city in the last few months. New mono brand stores and exclusive independent boutiques are changing the face of optics in a city where consumers are more informed and interested in eyewear fashion and good design.
1. Chakshu London
The new boutique style practice Chakshu is located in Camden. The store has been created by a team of optometrists who have also launched their own eponymous house brand in premium Italian acetate. Their additional brands, meticulously chosen to suit a variety of styles, offer the latest designs. They include Lunor, SALT. Optics, and from Paris, FACEAFACE.
Chakshu London Opticians has been created as an independent practice “where you will receive a highly professional service from a knowledgeable and experienced team.” The eye examinations are conducted using state-of-the-art equipment, including an OCT 3D retinal scanner.
The co-founders have worked in a variety of different optometric settings from smaller independent stores to large retail chains. Combined, they have over 30 years’ optical experience between them. Chakshu London, 97 Parkway, Camden Town, NW1 7PPhttps://www.chakshu.co.uk/
Located in Chiswick, West London, FourFourFour opened in March 2019. This is a sister store to Barnes Nineteen at 19 Barnes High Street, and it stocks a variety of design labels including Henau, Nine, Silhouette and Garrett Leight. A modern and minimal interior – which moves away from the clinical look of some traditional British optical stores – is becoming the norm in the UK as eyewear is seen as an important fashion consideration. 444 Chiswick High Road, London
3. Izipizi Paris
Izipizi is the latest opening in the Soho/Carnaby Street area in central London. This is the French brand’s second stand-alone store in Europe; the debut store is in the Marais district of Paris. Located in the popular shopping district of Soho, this new corner store displays all of the brand’s adult and children’s collections in a small yet well designed open retail space. www.izipizi.com
4. For Art’s Sake
This is another stand-alone retail store, located in central Covent Garden in the busy covered market. The store borrows bold design details from the brand’s penchant for eclectic style: decadent blue velvet furnishings and brass fixtures have been designed to “elevate the statement-making frames”. Many new retail features have been incorporated, from a selfie station to personal shopping (in five languages: Mandarin, French, Spanish, Italian and English), a concierge option, tax-free shopping, “Click and Collect” as well as exclusive colour choices for some of the frame designs. For Art’s Sake is designed by Xiwen Zhang who is featured on 2019’s Forbes 30 Under 30 list. www.fasforartssake.com CN
Expressive colour pairings, delicate floral-inspired patterns and carefully proportioned reduced silhouettes. The new designs in the S/S 19 sunglasses collection by Fleye Copenhagen is the result of a creative process that highlights an appreciation for Scandinavian culture and FloraDanica – an iconic collection of plants from the 18th century. The design team created their own floral portraits using flowers, trees and shrubs often seen in Danish gardens – and the results offered a wealth of exciting and “powerful” tonal combinations and special engravings that make these artisan sunglasses a highlight for Spring/Summer.
Above: Model Melanie Baird wears Fleye’s cateye model Utopia – in deep brown with a shiny pink inner rim from the Signature Collection. Photography by Gennaro D’Elia exclusively for Eyestylist.com at Bageriet, Nordic Bakery & Cafe, Covent Garden. www.bageriet.co.uk
These comfortable lightweight frames – in mixes of titanium, beta-titanium and/or acetate – feature delicately tinted polarized lenses which provide 100% UV protection.
Fleye Copenhagen sunglasses have arrived in London for Spring. Visit Spex in the City in Covent Garden to see the new frames. www.spexinthecity.com / To find further stockists in Europe visit www.fleye.dk CN
Milan Design Week 2019: Palermouno renewed – concept studio focuses on chromatic research and international design
PalermoUno, the studio of Sophie Wannenes inaugaurated last November, has been filled with shapes and new artworks for Milan Design Week 2019. The exhibition – which includes limited editions and unique products have one common thread – colour that redefines spaces, choreographies, which completely change the look of the environment – give a new image to all eight rooms in the studio. The exhibition will continue through until July.
The space located in Brera confirms an original concept: each room keeps its functional connotation, revealing the desire to create a place that is in constant evolution. The product is part of the space, as well as an invitation to “please touch and bring me with you”. Attention is paid to the selection of furnishings made for PalermoUno in the customization of the shapes and in the colours and their gradients.
From 9 April the new exhibition, which will remain on display until 15 July 2019, will be accompanied by the launch of the ecommerce site Palermouno.it where it is possible to buy the objects and furnishing accessories present in the different spaces. For further details visit: www.palermouno.it – Images: Andrea Pedretti CN
German design label Mykita has moved its New York store to 458 Broome Street into the heart of the fashionable Soho neighbourhood of the city. After five years on Crosby Street, the new two-floor space comprises a large area of 1590 square feet where the full collection is now presented alongside a state-of-the-art lab and workshop.
The company says it is the first shop to allow a full view into the optical lab and workshop showing the combination of handcrafting and high-tech that defines what the company refers to as “Modern Manufactory”. It also means the shop can offer a comprehensive optical service including in-house lens cutting, glazing, adjustments and repairs.
Mykita currently has a large and growing number of shops around the world, with further openings already slated for 2019 and a new store just opened in Carrer de Valencia, Barcelona. www.mykita.com CN
As our attention as consumers is drawn increasingly to sustainable, eco-friendly innovations, eyewear companies across the business are exploring an eco-conscious path with creativity and resourcefulness.
Vinylize, the independent Budapest brand that turns old, unwanted vinyl records into beautifully made ‘upcycled’ artisan eyewear, has moved on its own potential in eco-friendly eyewear production in a special project with coffee giant Nespresso, in Hungary.
“This was a pilot project,” says Zack Tipton, founder of Vinylize. “The limited production run sold out within a few days. We used a material produced from Nespresso capsules, recycled by the coffee company in Hungary. The used coffee grinds are separated from the capsules and sent to composting. The capsules are then smelted and turned into aluminium sheet which we can then use to produce the frames. The entire process is documented and certified.”
The result was an eye-catching limited edition glasses collection for Nespresso with designs inspired by the tones of the Nespresso Kazaar, Dharkan, Roma and Livanto capsules – in tones of satin midnight blue, gold and chocolate. “The coloration and finish were determined by Nespresso. They wanted a perfect match with the original colours of the capsules,” explains Tipton. “The durability we were able to achieve surpassed expectations. The frames were also prescription ready.”
The shapes produced in the first edition are inspired by the classic oval, butterfly and square designs, with a contemporary interpretation.
Vinylize-Tipton x Nespresso is ‘a salute to recycling’, designed to remind consumers of the infinite durability of aluminium which can be re-melted and reused, again and again. The project also aimed to further boost the recycling of Nespresso coffee capsules by showing the infinite potential of the recycled aluminium material.
The sophisticated matt finish of the frames is achieved through a tumbling process and hand-lacquering treatment at a German facility, while the eco-friendly felt case and paper box the frames were packaged in underscore the eco-credentials of the special edition. Further editions are planned for 2019.
Tipton Eyeworks and the Vinylize brand were founded in 2004, and have become world-renowned for their handmade production using vinyl to produce fashionable sunglasses and eyewear in Hungary. For further details: https://vinylize.com/CN
Michael Stoffels has transformed part of the historicZunfthaus zur Meisen in the Lindenhof Quarter, Zürich, into a state-of-the-art designer optical boutique.
Michael Stoffels opened his eponymous store in November 2018, replacing the well-known store on Storchengasse which had been run by the family in this location since 1983. The new prestigious boutique is located in the Zunfthaus zur Meisen, an historic 18th century building celebrated for its Grand Guild Hall and its exceptional central position overlooking the river Limmat. The interior of the shop merges contemporary and traditional features with striking colours and an artistic style with elegant, one-off pieces of furniture and art works.
Stoffels, who created the interior design for the store with Jaqueline van Maren, architect and interior designer, said the aim was to open a hip optical store in the very traditional historic setting, with a unique experience compared to other stores and an open and appealing outlook for young people. “We wanted to attract attention in a well-known location,” he added, “where thousands of people walk by every day. The brilliant colours are inspired by Yves Saint Laurent and his love for Marrakech, and the vibrant “Blumlihalle” (hall of little flowers) in Zurich, painted by Augusto Giacometti, nephew of the famous Swiss sculptor.” The exotic interior and its elegant furnishings create a setting that is more like a luxury living room than an optical retail space.
The shop has opened with a selection of handpicked niche collections which include Eyevan, Lucas de Stael, Retro Specs, Moscot, Carin and ‘Stoffels Own’ collection which is handmade in Switzerland.
Other outstanding features of the interior decoration include an impressive wall painting created with a bespoke wallpaper, designed especially for the wall and the colour scheme of the shop, by Jakob Schlaepfer from St. Gallen. Stoffels explains: “Jakob Schlaepfer is one of the most famous producers of haute couture textiles. The wallpaper is covered with a hologram foil, which is illuminated at night and gives a beautiful glittering effect visible from outside to passers-by.”
60s fever, and gold and silver retro metal rims, are challenging the elongated It-Girl cat’s eye as one of the most popular sunglass looks as we head into Spring, and we’ve seen it on the streets at London Fashion Week, and again in Milan. The lens tints are fun and colourful or very delicate, so they don’t completely hide the eyes, while the rims are extremely narrow, closely representing the styling of the past. Above: Em . The Lipstick Fever, wearing metal rim sunglasses at London Fashion Week in February. https://thelipstickfever.com/ Photography by G. D’Elia – exclusively for Eyestylist.com
Austrian label Andy Wolf has made the metal rims a key feature of the 2019 collections, experimenting with very small shapes as well as classic panto shapes, such as model Amira (above). This design comes with a variety of gentle lens tints including soft blue, pale pink and gold. Available at Matches Fashion – https://www.matchesfashion.com/womens/designers/andy-wolf -, or for further information visit www.andywolf.com
Or choose a unique style from one of the smaller labels. Viveur’s elegantly fashioned metal designs are made in Italy and have a chic finesse. The metal material is 100% hypoallergenic and very lightweight. The collections for Spring/Summer include round “panto” designs and slightly modified angular shapes such as Greg above – a shape with a flattened top that’s on the rise. Available to purchase online at www.viveursunglasses.com CN
Inspired by the Inuits and their distinctive iconic protective snow goggles, Malina sunglasses by You Mawo celebrate bold design created with 3D printing technology. Original Inuit frames featured a narrow oval lens shape, reducing the amount of light exposure to prevent snow blindness. Traditionally made of natural materials such as driftwood or bone, the frame would be carved to fit the face with slits that also acted to improve visual acuity according to the width.
Based on the classic interpretation, this new release by You Mawo, named Malina after the Inuit solar deity, explores the creative potential of 3D printed frames with a light yet sturdy, bold rim and gently curved silhouette. A modern fashion statement is achieved with the addition of the gold mirrored lenses, a stark contrast with the eye-catching black structure in Polyamide. Launched last weekend at Mido for the new season, the frame, produced in an edition of just 50 pieces, goes on sale at £600 (689 euros) in specialist retailers including Specs Berlin: find details at https://specs-berlin.de/en/female/you-mawo-malina
Award-winning German brand YOU MAWO is an innovator in custom tailored 3D printed eyewear. Founded in 2016, their frames are made exclusively in Germany with laser sintering technology. The frames in YOU MAWO’s mainline collections are made to measure via an iPad scan of the wearer’s individual face topography. This scan forms the foundation for the production of the frame to optimise comfort and fit. The frames are also customised with the individual’s name printed on the inside. Find further details at: https://www.youmawo.com/en/ CN
Buffalo horn. Fabric. Rubber. Acetate. The eye is drawn to the individual qualities of these materials in contemporary eyewear as young innovators highlight the form and structure of the product with special tactile details and deep nuances in coloration, some of these qualities, just visible with the naked eye.
In the Icons Line at Hapter, the rubberised surface featured has been developed to offer an exclusive tactile aesthetic and feel, with a retro inspiration and a slightly “aged” elegance. Italian founder Eric Balzan has invested years’ of research and development into collections that, for 2019, are further enhanced with a newly patented 8-GON Hinge. The brand will exhibit at Mido in the Design Lab (Pav 4 Stand S11) www.hapter.it Above: RBBR002 – the Icons Line – HAPTER
Rigards has attracted much attention in the last 12 months with their avantgarde collection, and in horn, they highlight the natural qualities of the material, the asymmetrical colorations and the beautiful striated patterns and effects where the surface is hand polished or left in its more natural state. www.rigards.com
Delirious Eyewear, the Milan label, produces buffalo horn frames with a distinct, light touch and artistic aesthetic: designed in Italy, the frames are made from natural Indian water buffalo horn. The process begins by milling two small boards of the same material; one for the front, and the other, for the temples. All the parts are ‘tumbled’, to smooth the little parts and surfaces in a process that can take up to a week. Finally, the artisans put the design together, polishing the surface with pads that highlight the details of the material and the brilliant surface. www.deliriouseyewear.com
In a similar vein – studying the possibilities in surface finishes worked by hand, TAVAT Tactile includes models that have been hand scratched and designs worked on with a pin-stripe laser treatment – mimicking the lines of the iconic Italian “Riva” boat. The frames are made in Italy and designed to offer the utmost comfort on the face. www.tavateyewear.comCN
Find these and other innovators at Mido – the Milan trade fair – from 23-25 February 2019.
With a backdrop of blue skies marking the first feeling of Spring, London Fashion Week opened on Friday. Alongside the main catwalk events and the colourful street style scenes off the catwalks – one of the highlights are the Designer Showrooms on The Strand, offering a diverse, handpicked showcase of over 50 smaller, up-and-coming international brands, a valuable platform for exposure and introductions to the world of fashion in the UK. – Above: buffalo horn frame detail, Delirious Eyewear. Photography: G. D’Elia
“Showcasing within the LFW Designer Showrooms allows brands to develop relationships with globally influential stores and helps to increase their exposure to top international journalists, publications and stylists.”
Representing the eyewear category at the Showrooms and premiering in the UK is Delirious Eyewear from Italy, an exclusive design label recognised by Vogue Italia’s “Who’s on next” awards (2018). Created by young entrepreneur Marco Lanero, the collection is produced in titanium and beta titanium, and the finest acetates and natural Indian buffalo horn, and is currently designed and made in Italy, with focus on traditional Cadore craftsmanship and expertise, rigorously monitored to ensure a unique and accomplished finish.
Buffalo horn remains a popular luxury material in eyewear, and Delirious aims high, using lengthy techniques in the production and final “tumbling” and polishing by hand. Their expertise in this material has attracted the attention of the fashion industry, through an ability to use the traditional techniques and merge them with contemporary design elements.
The Delirious Eyewear collections go into stores in London this season. The definition of luxury eyewear, their alternative design focus brings a contemporary look to the most classical aspects of traditionally made spectacles, as well as providing an impeccable comfort and fit. For more information about Delirious Eyewear visit the company in Milan (Mido trade fair) from 23-25th February 2019 or visit their website at www.deliriouseyewear.comCN Photography by Gennaro D’Elia exclusively for Eyestylist.com. All rights reserved.
Falvin’s Signature Eyewear – launching for the Spring/Summer season – combines Danish design expertise and exquisite Japanese crafting in contemporary shapes in lightweight titanium. The frames celebrate a passion for a Copenhagen landmark – the Crystal – a building from which founder Birgitte Falvin takes inspiration, for an eloquent direction in line and form. Above: released at the German trade fair opti last month, the new Falvin model Stellar. New additions are coming for the Mido trade fair, Milan. The brand exhibits in the prestigious Lab Academy ( Pav 6 / Stand LA 47) where up-and-coming designers and innovators showcase their collections.
Model Stellar (above and in featured video) is a contemporary version of the traditional cat’s eye frame, offering a supreme level of comfort and a statement shape in the state-of-the-art material. Using techniques that can only be mastered by hand, the beautiful two-tone base silhouette offers a luxury expression with black, white or champagne Wesselton diamond settings to create a personalized look. A trained jewellery designer, Birgitte Falvin has studied this element for the finishing of her distinctive eyewear, creating a one-off luxury detail that is both gentle yet sparkling – to catch the beholder’s eye.
The innovative diamond setting is of the highest quality, assembled by a top jeweler in Denmark, appointed by Falvin Eyewear. Find out more about the luxury designs for men and women by the Danish label at www.falvineyewear.com CN
Consider the eyewear accessory here to stay – a much underplayed fashion item in the past, start-ups and fashion industry creatives have refocused on this element of eyewear to fit perfectly with our insatiable desire to create an individual “style of our own”.
Milan’s Federica Moretti launched Huma Sunglasses + accessories in 2017. Inspired to reflect and embrace the creativity and extravagance of the fashion industry, the hat designer came up with a new eyewear collection idea in a range of clean, “basic” sunglass designs (made in Italy) to be worn with “captivating” decorative accessories – with special fastenings that clip onto temples.
These decorative elements can be worn depending on where your mood takes you. The choice includes small jewellery items that fasten to the ring in the temple, crystals, silks, and decorative stones, through to extravagant slightly humorous acrylic “hair pieces” for those who choose to dress to be seen.
Moretti’s imagination has literally run wild with the hair extensions producing an eccentric look in crazy colours. In contrast, some of the designs are subtle and delicate designed as chic jewellery embellishments, perfect for evenings out, special occasions or a gift for the accessory enthusiast with a taste for all things new and different. For more details about Huma and designer Federica Moretti visit Huma Sunglasses on Instagram: @humasunglasses. Available at I Visionari in Florence https://ivisionari.com/collections/humaCN
Growing in size and stature, the 2019 edition of opti – the German trade fair – offered a vast experience of eyewear from all corners of the earth. It’s hard to know where to start and where to look, and 3 days was barely sufficient to discover the most interesting design directions and innovations of the year.
Our focus was drawn particularly to artisan works addressing a purposeful design thinking, where natural materials are highlighted, incorporated with other materials, and inspiring an extraordinarily interesting study into surfaces and finishes – as in other design disciplines.
Above: Rigards – by Ti Kwa – continues to explore new ways to work with unusual materials. Their gorgeous copper patina finishes are now available in a variety of ‘rust’ and jasper/jade colorations and combinations with the signature miniature lock-in sun clip. Pictured – Model RG1911CU / for Ziggy Chen. www.rigards.com
In a new departure, using wood and metal, Spanish label Nina Mûr pays homage to deconstructivism and the maximum exponent of this movement in Spain, The Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. The collection consists of two models, Mikel and Izorne (above) in three versions. Following their much loved Memphis inspired collection with Abet Laminati, the Deseraiki launch represents a mature and refined release marked by constructive nuances, textures and materials. www.ninamur.com
Italian label Pugnale has an interesting collection for 2019, following their excellent collaboration in 2018 with architect Hani Rashid. The extensive range this year includes multiple materials such as buffalo horn, leather, mother of pearl and precious silks and several eye-catching pieces such as the square Esaedro which has a metal insert on the bridge. www.pugnaleeyewear.com
Hapter from Italy has an exciting year ahead. A patented hinge – the 8-GON hinge – previewed at opti for the very first time – is to be introduced through the collections. Their extraordinary work with surfaces – in tactile rubber and carefully selected fabric – continues to place them at the forefront of the design led companies in eyewear. www.hapter.it
In the fast growing field of 3d printed eyewear (there are already more than 40 3D printed brands we are aware of), opti offered an expansive overview of the current directions: from the sculptured “creative” look of Impressio (www.impressio.lu) to the minimal luxe of Gotti Dimension (www.gotti.ch) high-precision range in Polyamide and Rolf Spectacles’ new 3d printed titanium Skyline collection – which is printed, with additive manufacturing techniques, in Germany and hand finished in Austria. Rolf’s second Skyline edition offers fine silhouettes in natural colours with textured surfaces that are perfectly in tune with the focus on tactile, “raw” earthy finishes. www.rolf-spectacles.com
The opti boxes are always an ideal location to find new ideas. The collective ‘We are Annu’ were a highlight amongst the start-ups with their paper clip inspired glasses made “half by machine and half by hand”. The innovation lies in the easy modular construction of the frames – made of 3D printed nylon fronts with titanium wire temples (in 3 colour choices) and put together with a simple screwless hinge concept; not forgetting an attentive focus on fit with customizable nose pads and temples. It comes as no surprise that an independent optician is among the co-founders. More details at: www.weareannu.com
Eyestylist.com will identify other key trends discovered at opti in the edits we have coming up through Spring 2019. opti munich returns in January 2020 – save the date -10th to 12th January – www.opti.de CN
Sahra Lysell is the Senior Colour Designer atØrgreen Optics in Copenhagen.She has been with the company for over 20 years.
How did you become a colour specialist – has colour always been a part of you and your personality? I have a degree in fashion design, but I have always had a very strong intuition regarding colour and had an interest in how different tones work as an expression for emotions, our state of mind, and culture in society. I feel fortunate to have been able to make a career out of working with colour and to be part of a company that understands it is a very powerful communication tool.
Does colour affect you in your daily life? I believe so – it is a big part of my decision-making in all parts of my life. For example, most of the art in our apartment was chosen for the colours and combinations of colour. I am drawn more by that than by the theme or the artist. My favourite painting is by the Danish artist, Michael Kvium. Called Pale Eyed View, it is a picture of a man standing in a red sea. The red is a mix of red, orange and purple. This painting taught me to use hues that are difficult to define. The colours are interesting, and often flattering on the face.
On a daily basis, I find colour plays a role in what I do. I love to cook, and I love to play with colours when making food. It is very rare that I serve a dish where the special hues of Mother Nature don’t emphasize the experience. Purple for beetroot, orange for carrots, red for tomatoes, and the colour of a perfectly grilled steak, red in the middle, then rose and at last crispy brown on the edge. I can also see my 3 year old daughter is inspired to eat certain things due to the colour itself. She loves red ice cream! I could serve her beetroot ice cream and she would go for it just because it would be an amazing red!
“I have always seen things in colour, my brain works in a very visual way. If we are working on a new collection at Ørgreen, people always wants key words to work from, but I need to start with three colours! For me, this sets a mood, starts an emotion, and then I can get to work….”
In my office, I have three pictures of Mexican cemeteries; it may sound morbid, but the pictures are amazing and show bright, colorful graves and cathedrals that celebrate the story of a life. I have always had these pictures to remind me about differences in cultures and how there are so many colour stories to be told!
As a person, are you more about bright statement colours or quieter softer tones? Or do you wear colour according to your mood? I use colour according to my mood, and I love combinations of soft tones with a touch of something bright. For me, it is always about balance. When I choose colours or clothing, I like to mix the extravagant with the down-to-earth, masculine with feminine, or past with present. As I mentioned earlier I love big colorful paintings, but also black and white photos. My favorite tones change depending on the subject..whether I am considering fashion, art, furniture or nature.
What is the key to colour in fashion? I guess that every one of us owns a personal approach to colour; this comes from how you understand society and what people are craving for – positivity, seriousness, provocation, purity, innocence… all of these things are influential. A strong intuition is essential.
As innovation in 3D printing moves forward with leaps and bounds, in eyewear, new design directions focus on the extraordinary lightness and comfort of the Polyamide material and, increasingly, its adaptability to produce different, more creative eyewear designs. Specialists in 3D printed frames, Danish company Monoqool continues to work in this field with a particular focus on the perfect balance of comfort and astute contemporary style. With an architectural aesthetic and an underlying passion for Danish design, Monoqool has taken their collection forward with combination styles featuring Polyamide fronts and fine metal temples in a palette of eye-catching modern colours from ochre and violet through to a light, dusty green.
Above: The spectacular Ragnarock Museum of Rock in Roskilde (http://museumragnarock.dk/besoeg/), Denmark was selected as the venue for the Spring/Summer campaign. The setting is a colourful, unusual building designed by Cobe Architects (http://www.cobe.dk) – inspired by the 70s looks of Danish designer Verner Panton (http://verner-panton.com), who shocked the world with his colourful space age design.
For SS19, the Danish brand launches 12 eyewear shapes and four new sunglasses. “We aimed for a mix of frames, from the colourful and extraordinary to the classically cool,” says Allan Petersen, founder of Monoqool. “Four new colours are added to the already considerable line of 3D printed frames.”
The line up of frames features the popular Monoqool Slider series with a flat horizontal temple and screwless hinge. The Slider frames are made in ultra lightweight 3D printed polyamide material, which results in a frame weighing only 4 grams. It is in the Monoqool DNA to make frames with a high degree of comfort and which are easy to adjust and give a perfect fit – as well as offering contemporary design and an accomplished attention to detail.
Monoqool will exhibit the new collection at opti Munich in Germany from 25th to 27th January 2019. For more details about the latest designs, visit their website at www.monoqool.com. CN