Innovation 2020: opti Munich, Germany

Must-sees at the Munich fair – a packed fair is coming for January 2020

The Munich fair is expecting a busy turnout at the start of 2020. From emerging labels right through to historic eyewear brands, the showcase of eyewear collections at this important event gives a thorough overview of design developments, shining the spotlight on young innovators, creators as well as a host of high-profile fashion eyewear designers.

One of the standouts every year at opti – for artisan frames – is Res/Rei Italy, a small label with a dedicated following, owing to their creative style and close collaboration with Mazzucchelli which results in some very unique and detailed acetate materials. Their products are excellent with many unique and creative shapes and timeless qualities. We also particularly enjoy their covetable jewellery line – made from the leftover acetates – and offering a very chic and special design, with colours that match up with frames. Above: model Begonia from the nature-inspired Flowers collection at Res/Rei – different acetates combine and overlap with each other like the petals of exotic flowers. The frame is pictured in a pink/light pink colorway matched with plain grey lenses. Find out more at www.resrei.com

Eton Mess by theo – © 2018 copyright protected Artworks,
Photography & Graphic Design!

Belgian design innovators theo have had a particularly spectacular raft of designs launched through 2019, with highlights including their mouth-watering Layer Cake series – featuring titanium plate designs created with two different layers.

At opti, theo will release a completely new “typically theo” eyewear family which they tell us is “warm, soft and comforting yet strong, powerful and unyielding, like….sand.” Check their new website at www.theo.be for more details about their collections.

The sleek Alium Race 2 by FACE A FACE – advanced aluminium eyewear, inspired by the sports aviator shape

The Alium collection is always a must-see at the FACE A FACE stand. This is a very distinctive line with focus on men’s eyewear where a balance of technological excellence and a modern approach to colour offers something quite beautiful and different to wear. See more Alium frames at www.faceaface-paris.com

We Are Annu return to the opti boxes for 2020

We are Annu launched their collection at opti this year (check our Eyestylist opti review 2019 – www.eyestylist.com/2019/02/exceptional-design-at-opti/). We admire both the imaginative concept of paper clip inspired frames and their commitment to innovation and team success. A must-see for opti – find out more at www.weareannu.com

SALT. Optics: designed in California, made in Japan

SALT. Optics travels from California for the opti event, with a collection inspired by nature and produced with rigorous Japanese quality driven techniques. Alongside the main line collection, the brand has launched some must-see fashion-focused collabs, which include SALT. + Second Layer and SALT. + Fred Segal where attention to detail and shared values such as quality materials have resulted in exceptional limited editions. www.saltoptics.com

opti – the international trade show for optics & design, takes place at Fairground Munich from 10th to 12th January, 2020. Registration is now open to trade visitors at www.opti.de. Written by Clodagh Norton – all rights reserved.

Auerbach & Steele, London

Auerbach & Steele have moved to a new location, a few doors down, at 123 Kings Road, London

The prestigious optical store on London’s fashionable Kings Road – Auerbach & Steele – has moved to a state-of-the-art 3 storey architect-designed retail space just a few doors down from its original location.

Visible from the street, a vast minimal contemporary open space at ground level is now home to one of the UK’s most comprehensive and diverse selections of fine independent eyewear collections for which the practice has become a trendsetter and point of reference.

Auerbach & Steele: a stunning display of innovative eyewear

Distributed through the basement and two further floors beyond the main retail space, the practice also offers 2 private consulting rooms for eye testing and styling appointments, its own lens lab and one of the UK’s most unique dedicated spaces for beautiful, colorful kid’s eyewear. In line with its reputation for clinical excellence, the new location is fitted with cutting edge testing equipment, for the most comprehensive eye examination.

High ceilings and beautiful displays at Auerbach & Steele, London

Curated by Gail Steele and a long-serving team of optics and design experts, the eyewear collections at Auerbach & Steele offer something for everyone including minimal design labels from Scandinavia, colorful British eyewear classics, exciting 3D printed frames and the most highly regarded avant-garde and statement eyewear from cities like Berlin and Zurich.

Gail Steele told Eyestylist: “Since we opened Auerbach & Steele in 1996, I have been dedicated to marrying absolute clinical and technical excellence alongside the dispensing of ever changing beautiful, cool and unusual frames which we source, and often have made,  from around the world. We are thrilled to now be able to offer our special service from our beautiful new luxurious space spread across four  floors.” Visit Auerbach & Steele at 123, King’s Road, London, SW3 www.auerbach-steele.com CN

Jono Hennessy Studio (485): Florescence collection

Florescence collection released: Jono Hennessy’s lively colours and patterns are an inherent feature of his new collections, inspired by the brilliance and delicacy of flourishing blooms. Colorful and playful with Liberty print fabric laminations and tone on tone combinations, the line also gives space to fashionable blocked tones. Mixed material designs in stainless steel and custom acetate are also a key feature.

Inspired by the 70s dancefloor, the modern square shape of Studio combines sharp edges in a bold metal front in IP plated colour with a custom glitter temple. The palette is expressive and typical of Hennessy’s creative studio. It brings fronts in gold, black, red or a lovely pale mint together with the glitter infused stone-toned temples. An oversized shape is perfectly tailored for retro impact and highlights the trend towards larger metal proportions in the latest collections as we head towards a new year. The Florescence collection is available from Sunshades, Australia. Look for the brand at selected optical retailers. Find out more: www.sunshadeseyewear.com.au

Hot again: bordeaux + burgundy + eggplant

Warm red wine tones, natural eggplant and deep bordeaux have returned to eyewear for the winter season. This flattering array of hues are an elegant lift for winter complexions and cold weather wardrobes, and an easy accompaniment to work or formal attire – and will spruce things up for everyday. Above: Falvin Eyewear, model Equator in matt amethyst with precious rose gold detail. An all-rounder (for work and weekends) where the purple amethyst colour looks beautiful with a touch of gold. An excellent accompaniment to gold jewellery and accessories. www.falvineyewear.com

Kirk and Kirk Centena – model Miriam

Style Miriam, in Bordeaux, is a newly released frame from  the British brand Kirk & Kirk; made in France it is produced in an acrylic material with a translucent quality that catches the light. The frame has been bevelled or “sculpted” on the edges which gives it a notable artisan finish. Find out more about the Centena collection by Jason and Karen Kirk at www.kirkandkirk.com

Wisdom by Caroline Abram

Parisian designer Caroline Abram combines colours in her new bold, feminine collection for winter, which highlights burgundy tones and chic shades of pink, adding hints of indigo, dark ruby and bright raspberry or fuchsia. For ophthalmic model Wisdom, the choices include burgundy/marsala (above) and indigo/purple, with the second colour in the pairing outlining the frame shape and providing definition at the brow. www.carolineabram.com

Lara D – model Kristel – black/bordeaux

Italian eyewear designer Lara D’Alpaos is also creative in her combinations of colours and layering effects. In the new model Kristel from the Unique Collection at Lara D’, she matches black with deep bordeaux as a  couture trim on a sumptuous statement cat’s eye that plays with art nouveau shapes and blocked 3d acetate. Find out more at www.laradeyewear.com

London street style: Winter 19/20

British brands highlighted: Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses, the iconic eyewear company, founded in 1926 and Covrt Project, a streetwear label launched in 2019.

In a London style focus by Eyestylist, we brought together two of the city’s finest street photographers with two British brands that define quality, individuality and eyewear attitude. Above: photographer @boyfromdagbon wears style Winston by Claire Goldsmith at Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses.  https://www.olivergoldsmith.com/product/winston/ Photography by David Nyanzi (@davidnyanzi) for Eyestylist.com

The new Gopas Winter Sun by Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses – @boyfromdagbon photographed by @davidnyanzi

Model Gopas by Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses is ideal for winter light conditions with lightly tinted sun lenses which remove the brightness of interior light or glare from the sun on a winter’s day. The style is derived from an aviator with a flattened top and angular silhouette. For further details or to buy direct: https://www.olivergoldsmith.com/product/gopas/

Covrt Project: style MP4 – @boyfromdagbon photographed by @davidnyanzi

Covrt Project’s MP4 from the _Mission One Sunglasses Collection defines this new brand’s ambition to balance innovation and a different design style with cutting-edge quality. MP4 is a hexagonal sunglass with a notable high double bridge and acetate bar. The design has undergone fine machine work to create the bridge and detailing and offers high-level functionality and comfort. This new label’s sunwear and accessories have launched at www.covrtproject.com CN

Aviator sunglasses by FSLA + SALT. Optics

The unique, authentic design of aviator sunglasses continues to be attractive to men and women searching for timeless frames and excellent cover up from UV rays. Its iconic teardrop lens and minimal frame construction is an easy fit for most face shapes, and with so much choice in terms of colour and detail, it’s easy to find your go-to design.

For a luxe experience, the iconic thin rimmed metal design is hard to beat and we would always choose top-notch sun lenses and the most fashion-forward colours we can possibly find. Lens tones vary hugely in the aviator styles, from mirrors to very dark or very light “graduated” hues – so trying the styles is essential.

A design such as Francisco – part of a new collaboration collection by SALT. Optics and Fred Segal – focusing on elevating timeless basics – represents the ultimate “contemporary classic”. SALT. has taken the notion of timeless basics and gone back to the roots of hand-crafted eyewear using fine Japanese materials and working with third-generation Japanese artisans.

Francisco in brushed honey gold with rose lens tint in the SALT. + Fred Segal collab collection

This unisex style is beautifully crafted in titanium/beta titanium – premium metals that guarantees comfort and a smart, luxury finish and finesse, and the lenses are polarized CR-39, with a backside A/R coating to further reduce reflection. The style is also offered in black sand with grey gradient lens and silver with blue gradient lens (below).

Francisco in a silver finish with blue gradient lens

The FSLA X SALT. Optics capsule collection consists of three smart yet laidback unisex sun styles that come in three colorways and mix classic design elements with a retro vibe. The styles are now available at Fred Segal’s Flagship location at 8500 Sunset Boulevard in Los Angeles, FRED SEGAL LAX as well as fine eyewear + optical locations worldwide.  Purchase online at: https://saltoptics.com/products/francisco-fred-segal-gold?_pos=5&_sid=549532105&_ss=r CN

Fabienne Delvigne, Royal Milliner

“Sublimating through difference”

Celebrating the 30th anniversary of her eponymous label, a new book is launched following the unique and fascinating journey of Fabienne Delvigne, Belgian entrepreneur and milliner. The book recounts the designer’s story and many commissions for members of the royal families of Belgium, Sweden and the Netherlands, professional women, or men “with a sense of style”.

La Petite Robe Noire – Paris

“All my clients have in common a love of beauty,” says Delvigne, whose extraordinary designs are produced according to superior traditional craftsmanship in the Maison’s Brussels boudoir workshop. The creativity and modernity with which they are carefully brought to life mean that they always remain a source of surprise.

“Fabienne is a daring woman who has more than one string to her bow and who has put her fiery lust for living at the service of her art. Fabienne is a true magician!” Diane Von Fürstenberg

Daytona hat – Square

The book itself – with outstanding forwards by Diane von Fürstenberg and Stéphane Bern, tells of the designer’s many bespoke commissions and one-off projects for Royalty. It also explains more unexpected work that Delvigne has accomplished  outside millinery, including a stand design for the Biennale Interieur in Kortrijk for the Carrières du Hainaut©, the largest producer of limestone in Europe. For further details about the new book which is published by Marot S.A. Bruxelles in November 2019 (for £59.99 euros) visit the e shop at www.fabiennedelvigne.be/eshop/sublimer-par-la-difference/?lang=en. For more information on the designer visit www.fabiennedelvigne.be CN

Fairplay by Lafont Paris – Reedition

The Reedition collection by Lafont Paris has special significance this year as the historic Parisian eyewear company  celebrates 40 years of artistic eyewear, design and colour. Since 1923, when Louis Lafont opened the first Lafont boutique in the French capital, Lafont Paris has produced classically chic eyewear designs conceived with artistic flair and passion for heritage, achievable through a combination of state-of-the-art manufacturing and traditional French craftsmanship.

Over the years the Reedition collection has highlighted some of the quintessentially iconic designs of each decade at Lafont. Fairplay, a new addition launched last month, is a reminder of the company’s expertise in metal, where classical design meets advanced technical precision and modern detailing.

A narrow metal structure with a square eyeshape, the frame expresses the meticulous refinement of the Lafont finish with a distinguished upper rim shaping and narrow temples integrating a small hinge mechanism with absolute precision.

Today Lafont Paris produces frames in acetate, stainless steel and titanium and is well-known for its expertise in fabric inlays and advanced applications in materials which include carbon fibre. Find more designs at www.lafontparis.com CN

Exclusive: Lien Atelier jewellery chains

At an impromptu meet in Paris, surrounded by luxury chain designs, more akin to jewellery than most collections we’ve come across, film director Jenny Suen tells me she found her first vintage eyewear chain at a flea market in Paris. She has worn it ever since as part of her signature look. “Over the years, so many people asked me where they could buy one,” she explains. “It occurred to me that there were no chains produced in fine materials or designed with the modern woman in mind. So when I finished my last movie, I decided to create my own.” Above: model wearing Coco (18K gold plated with freshwater pearls)

Launched this year, the debut collection is made with 18-carat gold and freshwater pearls, a tribute to the filmmaker’s/designer’s hometown of Hong Kong, a city known as “Pearl of the East.” Offering sleek lines evoking the city’s iconic skyscrapers, and a romantic modern feminine design, the three launch pieces are named after women for whom Suen has special admiration: Marguerite (Duras), Coco (Chanel), and Faye (Wong).

Lien Atelier chains

“Long associated with secretaries, forgetful grandmas, and stuffy librarians, Lien re- imagines the eyewear chain for the modern woman. Once a practical tool to keep optical glasses and sunglasses from the lost and found, the eyewear chain is now a statement-making piece of jewellery for visionaries who imagine, travel, and create….”

Lien Atelier is stocked at Kite Shoreditch (UK), Marc Le Bihan (France) and Kapok Sun Street (Hong Kong). The name “Lien” means “link” in French and Chinese.

About the founder: Jenny Suen is a Hong Kong director. She wrote, produced, and co-directed The White Girl with legendary cinematographer Christopher Doyle. The film stars Joe Odagiri and Angela Yuen in a tropical-noir love story set in the last fishing village of Hong Kong. It screened at festivals worldwide, including a world premiere at at the BFI London Film Festival, was nominated for a NETPAC award at the Taipei Golden Horse Film Festival, and had a special premiere at the Singapore International Film Festival, where it was lauded as an “accomplished first feature from Suen, [heralding] the coming of a new director with the potential to add truly unique offerings to the Hong Kong film canon.” Suen also produced Hong Kong Trilogy, a portrait of the city’s residents in childhood, youth, and old age, which was directed by Doyle. It premiered at the Toronto International Film Festival in 2015. Her next film will be a widely-anticipated Chinese remake of Vera Chytilova’s 1968 Czech New Wave masterpiece Daisies. For more details visit www.lienatelier.com CN

Eyewear directions: Hall of Frames

The popular annual eyewear fair Hall of Frames (Zurich, Switzerland) has issued imagery from its new season shoot which took place on site at Papiersaal over a sunny weekend in September. The frames featured include a mix of advanced materials, from  lightweight titanium to 3d printed designs, with state-of-the-art details, classically inspired shapes and interesting finishes and treatments. Above: Ørgreen Optics Coeda 964, produced in 100% pure titanium and beta-titanium. www.orgreenoptics.com Photography by Nina-Maria Glahé

Funk eyewear model Authari Raw in a crystal finish / Photography by Nina-Maria Glahé

Dieter Funk’s acetate frames, produced in Bavaria, Germany, lean toward classic or timeless design principles, with modern updates taking the form of special colorations and material/tonal combinations. For more details: www.funkbrillen.com

Coblens: Endlos 7 rimless design

The Endlos series by Gmerna-based company Coblens combines titanium temples with modern rimless fronts; the frame front and sides are attached to the lenses with small antique inspired screws with a hexagonal shape. www.coblens.com

Ørgreen Optics: less-is-more in the Quantum collection

Quantum spectacles have an outstanding spherical hinge design and light construction in 3D printed polyamide. The innovative choice of subtle and bright colours is one of many highlights of the Danish brand’s eyewear expertise. www.orgreenoptics.com / Photography by Nina-Maria Glahé for Hall of Frames: https://www.ninamariaglahe.com/All rights reserved.

The next edition of Hall of Frames will take place on 13th and 14th September 2020. For more details, visit www.hallofframes.ch CN

Matali Crasset X theo: Dialogues

Creative energies are running particularly high at theo this year, in preparation for 2020. SILMO saw an ingenious spread of collections, among them a fresh collaborative series – the third of its kind for theo – with designer Matali Crasset. ‘Dialogues’ explores conversation and chat, with focus on the two eyewear basics – the lens and whatever goes around it; how the two interact together or relate beyond the classic ‘glasses’ form becomes a feature and a “talking point” – without constraint in the construction or the technical finesse (of course!). Above: Model Debate, in fluo pink, by theo X Matali Crasset

Model Talk – © 2018 copyright protected Artworks,
Photography & Graphic Design!

“The shape of the lenses is radically different from what Matali has created before” theo eyewear

Expressive, comfortable, surprisingly easy to wear. The result is six titanium styles with Crasset’s “signature” which bring a unique focus to the eyes of the wearer. Single colours emphasise the drama of the openwork and “floating effects”, exploring a bold vision, in theo style – with exquisite tones of fluo pink and orange through to sophisticated monochrome black or white – the two colours that Crasset wears herself.

Model Gossip – © 2018 copyright protected Artworks,
Photography & Graphic Design!

Dialogues by theo X Matali Crasset was launched in Paris in September 2019; the frames will shortly become available in theo opticians worldwide. The collaborators have simultaneously launched ‘Blurred’, an even more ‘rebellious’ limited edition related to the Dialogues designs and created solely in black and white.

Matali Crasset is an industrial designer from France.  She has become known for a refusal of pure shape in her work and develops new typologies articulated around principles such as modularity, appropriation, and flexibility. She has worked on far-reaching projects in different disciplines and with leading brands including Alessi, Nodus and Le Buisson. For more information visit www.theo.be / www.matalicrasset.com CN

The Galápagos Collection by Tyche & Iset Eyewear

A fresh, luxury sunglasses collection, produced in premium materials from young LA-based female designer Morganne Leigh takes inspiration from the Galápagos Islands and its untamed flora and fauna. Highlights include model ‘Las Iguanas’ a timeless, unisex oval shape with creative details that simulate the textures and features of the islands’ most prominent lizard species.

“The Marine Iguana species can only be found on the Galápagos Islands. It is the only lizard species on Earth that lives on land, but swims in the sea to forage and feed on algae. Through evolution, it’s snout has been perfectly formed for this task; this inspired our nose bridge shape.” Morganne Leigh, Tyche & Iset

Details: Las Iguanas with signature music note temple charm and sculptured nose bridge

Her third unique collection to date, Leigh has a fresh, innovative touch in eyewear design and an experimental creative vision, coming from other arts disciplines and having trained as a painter and graphic designer. The new collection is a beautiful representation of her work, with details and finishes that are subtly tied to the magical natural volcanic archipelago in the Pacific Ocean.

A participant of the Elaine Gold Launch Pad Program 2018-19, the designer recently won the prestigious emerging designers award with the CFDA and Accessories Council (a USA award) gaining new funding to further execute new ideas toward technology, sustainability, and innovation for her brand which she first launched in 2014. For further details on her new Galápagos styles at Tyche & Iset, visit https://www.tycheandiset.com/collections/the-galapagos-collection.For previous features on Eyestylist with Tyche and Iset visit https://www.eyestylist.com/2018/04/feminine-for-s-s18-4-unique-designs/ CN

Paris Fashion Week SS20

A little less sunshine (and fewer sunglasses on the street) but just as beautiful as ever, Paris Fashion Week’s street style looks were bold and breathtaking or deeply influenced by tradition. In eyewear, a sincere love and respect for heritage and classic couture was evident across the city with vintage designs and clean architectural shapes in muted tones being most popular with all generations. Above: Anna Dello Russo wearing an oversized mask in black. Photography by Gennaro D’Elia for Eyestylist.com.

Russian Model Alina wears thick rimmed tortoise sunglasses with leopard print

The cat’s eye continued to enjoy a spectacular showing at Paris, as in London and NYC – with all versions, from small and sleek to large or elongated worn by women – and increasingly, men too.

Elongated cat’s eyes: @kandelissa @mikhaelkale – Photo by Gennaro D’Elia

The elongated and sharply pointed cat’s eyes worn by many celebrities are still in vogue with the darker colours remaining the most elegant trend-driven statement for a striking finish or unique look – above, worn by Jessica (@kandelissa) with Mikhael Kale (SS20).

Leila Depina #PFW in small round sunnies

Metal frames have really taken off with a few particular shapes such as small rounds and ovals doing well. Our sightings of these styles indicated that this trend is strong and still growing.

Caro Daur : Valentino – photo by Gennaro D’Elia

With less rays throughout the week there was a chance to catch some models and influencers in glamorous glasses. Caroline Daur (influencer, blogger and entrepreneur – www.carodaur.com) wore a classic black cat eye with head to toe Valentino for the @maisonvalentino show by Pierpaolo Piccioli. Photography by Gennaro D’Elia exclusively for Eyestylist.com. CN

Silmo Paris: notes on what’s to come

Silmo is a key event in the optical fair calendar where we discover innovations, new directions and trends in eyewear for the season ahead. This year, the breadth of creative proposals was significant, and attendance by independent labels showed a strong movement toward individual design, high level production and experimental work and expertise in colour, materials and eco-oriented design.

At Silmo, Tavat Eyewear showed their new avant-garde SpamCan Collection, the next step on from SoupCan, inspired by the quadratical shape of the iconic spam can or tin. Made from an impressive material composed of bronze, zinc and nickel, this new departure is highly technical and elaborate, with 27 components and a hinge based on the high-precision Swiss watch crown mechanism. The sunglasses are fitted with melanin sunglass lenses. Find out more at www.tavat-eyewear.com

Metamorphosis by You Mawo

You Mawo’s showpieces at Silmo included the Metamorphosis 3D printed Limited series and a visor design (above) with futuristic 3D side pieces. The main line has also expanded with some strong fashion shapes (cateye model Lyra) and a beautiful round design called Selene. www.youmawo.com

 

SUSTAIN by Monoqool

Monoqool launched the SUSTAIN sunglasses, a first 3d printed design made from castor beans farmed sustainably in India through the Pragati Initiative (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHe1N43IN8o ). The company has entered the Sustain programme supported by the AM-Hub organisation in Denmark with the goal of helping a selected number of small/medium size Danish companies to develop sustainable manufacturing via 3D print technology. www.monoqool.com

Passion for purple at Kirk & Kirk

Kirk & Kirk have done much to promote the benefits of colourful eyewear proposals from the UK, and continue to put out glorious colorations, in both their Centena and Kaleidscope collections, with emphasis on new tones of blue, pink and mauve. www.kirkandkirk.com

ROLF Spectacles: Titanium Skyline – advanced tech + crafting

The Skyline collection at ROLF Spectacles is exceptional in its avantgarde designs in 3D printed titanium. The new styles have stunning combinations of smooth and textured ‘volcanic-like’ surfaces as well as offering a lightweight, easy-to-wear eyewear solution – putting this line in a category of its own. Image above: Photographer: Clemens Ascher http://www.clemensascher.com and clothes by Mühlmann https://www.muehlmann.eu  For more information about ROLF, visit www.rolfspectacles.com

VAERK no 104 in Champagne

New brands were plentiful at Silmo, the best ones focusing on advanced technology and technical know-how. VAERK Copenhagen puts the emphasis on beautiful engineering, tech and Danish design traditions. In collaboration with the renowned Danish industrial design duo Harrit-Sørensen, this brand has developed an innovative hinge concept that not only constitutes high level precision but also an aesthetically appealing link between the frame front and temple. www.vaerkcopenhagen.com

Covrt Project: high-tech urban design / made in Italy

In a completely different departure for street style aficionados, London-based designer and creative director Marcello Martino launched Covrt Project in the “start-up” area of the Silmo fair. This bold Italian made collection includes 7 sunglass styles with advanced tech features focused on enhanced comfort, durability and individual design. The collection is accompanied by unique accessories: find out more at  https://covrtproject.com.

SILMO Paris will take place from 2nd to 5th October 2020 at Paris Nord Villepinte. For more information visit www.silmoparis.com Eyestylist will report on more trends and new updates following SILMO Paris in the weeks ahead. This feature was written by Clodagh Norton. Please seek permission for reprints. All rights reserved.

Rigards for UJOH: Paris launch

Ti Kwa’s avant-garde eyewear label Rigards always has something special to show at Paris Fashion Week and SILMO at this time of year – and for 2019 it’s a very special cat eye inspired by nature.

Collaborating with UJOH, Mitsuru Nishizaki’s award-winning womenswear line, model RG0123UJOH+ builds upon the traditional winged silhouette, with its upswept double rims, one made of ultralight aluminum-magnesium and the other of surgical-steel. The semi-stacked construction and negative-space cut away creates an illusion that the inner rims are floating over the face.

The frame’s aesthetic pays special homage to dragonflies and damselflies, insects which the designer has studied with a keen eye. Despite their simple origin from “incomplete” metamorphoses and fragile wings of gossamer, they have come to symbolize beauty, ferocity, and purity of habitat, in almost every part of the world.

A second model – RG0123UJOH – was created alongside this masterpiece. This style is described as “a little more subtle” without the statement-making cut-out (and thus the colour contrast), yet still offering a resolutely distinctive and individual alternative for the less-audacious wearer.

Both styles are released in six colours, one of the highlights of which is Red—nicknamed ‘Akatombo’ (Red Dragonfly), a nod to the iconic creatures of Japanese nostalgia and song. Find out more by visiting Rigards at SILMO or Paris Fashion Week, or go to www.rigards.com – for previous features on Rigards via Eyestylist visit https://www.eyestylist.com/2019/08/the-viridi-anne-x-rigards-glasses-with-clip/  CN

 

Milan Fashion Week

Synonymous with quality and chic, trendsetting style, Milan’s fashion week continues to be a mecca for luxury street style, good taste and individual dressing. Here is a sneak peek outside the SS20 catwalks by Italian photographer Gennaro D’Elia. Above: Leila Depina wears vintage Cazal – model 913, first launched in 2001.

Jessica Wang in metal rimmed sunglasses

Jessica Wang (www.notjessfashion.com) looked stunning in oval metal sunnies.

@SISSIZHANG in Gentle Monster X FENDI

Fashion buyer @SISSIZHANG wore the latest style in the Gentle Monster X FENDI collab.

Armela Jakova

Logos are worn with pride in Milan. Digital content creator and speaker Armela Jakova wore Gucci. For more photos from Milan Fashion Week visit our Instagram page @eyestylistmagazine. Photography by Gennaro D’Elia exclusively for Eyestylist.com.

Blackfin One: Bayou in titanium

New main line titanium styles by Blackfin are hot off the press for the Autumn season, with a careful focus on innovative technical details and uncompromising quality construction – features that have long been at the heart of this tech-loving, innovation-driven family firm. The five shapes releasing include a panto-inspired frame called Bayou, a classically round Blackfin design with ultra-flex titanium bridge and temples in beta titanium – a material selected for its extra strength and flexibility when combined with titanium.

The color palette for Bayou ranges from the more masculine – dark blue paired with a bright red (below), black or midnight blue – to the more feminine shades of blush pink or midnight blue combined with the brightest tone of magenta.

Blackfin Bayou: a brighter lining creates a fresh colour mix

All the new styles in the range are fitted with tilting nose pads and Blackfin’s Swordfish temple tips. Find them at Silmo Paris this month and visit the website for all the latest releases as they appear at www.blackfin.eu. CN

For more on Blackfin visit: https://www.eyestylist.com/2019/07/blackfin-bocelli-musical-philanthropy/

Exclusive: Regrind by EOE Eyewear

The founders of the Northern Swedish company EOE have created the first edition of eyewear made from recycled broken and discarded plastic eyewear. The collection and campaign launch this month in Paris.

Commitment to research. Investment in new technology for recycling. And admirable perseverance to set up a workable system for recycling frames in Sweden in a collaboration with the Nordic company Synsam and Vision for All. The founders of EOE Erik and Emilia Lindmark have worked for over three years on the recycling project to create a frame material with performance properties comparable to new acetate and an aesthetic finish and choice of colorations suitable for the creation of high-quality trend-focused products.

Launching the concept with the Regrind edition of three sunglasses, attention has been placed on creating a chic look in the coloration using predominantly black frames for the “regrinding” process. Tiny smatterings of minute coloured frame pieces are just visible, and create a textured effect on the surface, the look of which is wholly dependent on the types of frames recycled, the predominant colours of the frame pieces and the quality of the acetate of the old frames. Above: EOE’s new video illustrates the concept developed by EOE for turning old unwanted eyewear into a recycled material for new chic eyewear.

EOE Regrind – Photography by Farago & Farago

Regrind debuts as a fashion collection in a stunning campaign by fashion photographers Peter Farago and Ingela Klemetz Farago (www.faragofarago.com) which highlights the  idiosyncrasies of the material in a beautiful wild and natural Swedish landscape.

EOE recycled acetate material is produced by EOE together with engineers, chemists and physicists. The frames are shattered into small pieces and the metal parts are then filtered out. The plastic pieces then undergo a regrinding process to create new blocks of raw material. 98% of the old eyewear is recyclable. EOE uses recycled steel from Sweden to produce the metal parts of the frames. In August the company was recognised by Encouragement for Action – Stockholm Fashion District in the “closing the loop” category, part of an award scheme to raise awareness and bring attention to important ideas in sustainability, digitization and fashion tech.

Find out more at www.eoe-regrind.com or visit EOE at Silmo 2019 (the Paris trade fair) on stand 5A 119. / www.eoe-eyewear.com – Written By Clodagh Norton

Silmo Insights: 2019

The Silmo fair in September (international trade fair) is the pinnacle of the “eyewear designers” calendar of events, and provides our eyes with a feast of colour and innovation in design from well-known, new and up-and-coming labels who descend on Paris for several days. It’s the place we love to scout for innovation, new trends, and unique eyewear and accessories from all around the world.

Joining the line up are many companies who return to the event every year. The Marseilles designer Jean-François Rey launches new designs across multiple collections at the event, with a principal focus on expertise in colour, design creativity and beautiful French artisan quality. Highlights this year will include the new Wave collection (above) – an architecture-inspired eyewear concept using stainless steel to create lightweight, airy structures with a “folding effect” achieved by hand. Gorgeous hand applied colour combinations provide an eye-catching effect on the face. www.jfrey.fr

Deckard by Oscar Magnuson – exquisite design, colour and hand-finished ‘sculpted’ ‘eco’ acetate

From Sweden, Oscar Magnuson returns each year to Paris, this time with a bio-acetate collection that marries a bold structural look with the quality and pared-down purity of high-quality Swedish design. The sunglasses collection in the same material include some statement micro shapes (model Sid) and oversized classics (model Debbie) and across the lines you will find a palette of monochrome tones such as urban green, crystal grey and deep ink – a deep sophisticated and moody tone that makes a clever alternative to black. www.oscarmagnuson.com

Diffuser Tokyo: first time at Silmo

Their first time showing to the international audience at Silmo, Diffuser Tokyo – by Masaki Hirose – will reveal its comprehensive high-quality range of accessories which include cases, frame holders and eyewear pouches in a fresh concept that highlights quality materials and well designed functional products. Preview their ranges at www.diffuser-tokyo.com. We are already big fans.

Andy by SALT. Optics in a glowing hue of ‘whiskey’

Brand new crystal colorations and nature-infused tones are a feature for next year’s sunglasses collections. Californian label SALT. Optics is introducing new styles in their C2-19 collection which is poised to deliver beautiful heritage-inspired eyewear, made in Japan with exclusive quality features (incredible hardware through to chic glass lenses) and subtle colorations of dusty rose, hazy taupe, mojave and whiskey (above). Find out more at www.saltoptics.com

Mr Lenoir Lunettes, by Djibril Cissé with Laurent Balducelli

Another new name at Silmo this year, Mr Lenoir is the official brand of former football player Djibril Cissé, with optical and sunglass designs created in partnership with Laurent Balducelli, a French optician and specialist in bespoke eyewear. Produced in Montbeliard in France, the eclectic range of styles are made from Mazzucchelli acetate and in some cases feature metal laser cutting and chemical etching. They are available at a few independent stores already, both in and outside France. For more information visit their Instagram page @mrlenoirlunettes.

Von Arkel – a winning combination of luxury + innovation

For luxurious, cutting-edge design, the Swiss brand Von Arkel stands apart in its achievements in applying the technical precision and craftsmanship of watchmaking to luxury frames, produced by master craftsmen in Morges in Switzerland. New sophisticated concepts will show on the Von Arkel stand at the Paris show this month: www.vonarkel.com

Silmo Paris – the international eyewear and optics fair – takes place from 27th to 30th September 2019 at Paris Nord Villepinte. For further details and registration visit  www.silmoparis.com Watch our Design + Inspiration page for the next weeks for more updates and previews for the Paris show!

Chic + characterful: Laurence D’Ari, Antwerp

“Antwerp heart, Italian hands”

Antwerp creator and avid eyewear collector Laurence Bourguignon says she doesn’t follow trends nor does she focus on a specific target group or age. “My designs are an expression of myself and who I am. I can only hope they will be picked up by women with a genuine and self-confident personality, daring to express themselves.”

Named after her father Ari (short for Aristide), the collection remains something of a special ‘secret’ outside Belgium, although it’s stocked in some prestigious optical stores and luxury fashion stores like Azzurro Due (www.azzurrodue.com). Pictured above: model Authentic in Honey – a showpiece in the Laurence D’Ari collection.

Model Spirited by Laurence D’Ari – in Crystal Green

The 8 sunglasses in the 2019 selection – named after characteristics of personalities which the designer admires (they include ‘Devoted’ and ‘Spirited’) are crafted in Italy in rich marble-effect acetates with bold organic or angular oversized forms and retro-infused squares and cat eyes that have characteristic sculptural definition in some details such as a wave effect in the lower edge of the temples, and an open gold temple ring to attach the accompanying gold chain.

Eyewear with charisma: Laurence d’Ari model Devoted in Black Marble

Laurence D’Ari launched in 2018 with focus on strong, charismatic elegant styling inspired by vintage elements, especially for women. The sunglasses are available in selected opticians (including Annys Optiek, De Wilde, Philip Hoet and Frank Props) and several fashion concept stores known for unique designers and luxury apparel. Find the full collection online at www.laurencedari.com CN

Autumn choices: SoupCan tech innovation

Tavat Eyewear continues to prove that ingenious tech innovation is a lasting, winning trait in eyewear. Their SoupCan concept, launched in 2015 (at the Mido eyewear fair, Milan) and inspired by 1930s goggles, continues to achieve an ideal balance in the benefits of the “sandwich” style technical construction with rimlock closure. It also offers a completely different finish and feel to the design which is comfortable, durable and fresh in style.

An Eyestylist ‘pick’ / tech innovation: Hexad – in striped Havana

Launched in 2019, the Hexad in the Soupcan collection is offered in a range of colours suited to all tastes. They include classic matt black, bond blue horn and champagne, all beautiful and unique for the new season.

The frames are made in Italy and feature a long list of tech details from tiny watch-crown screws to comfy hypoallergenic nosepads; the metal temples are laser etched for a decorative touch and some styles benefit from ultra scratched hand finished surfaces which provide a tactile feel to the material and a subtle texture. Tavat’s frames in the SoupCan collection are the expression of a rare and innovative approach to functionality and style in product design and the refreshing aesthetic is ideally suited to those who seek something different beyond the ordinary designer frame. See more colours in the SoupCan collection at https://tavat-eyewear.com/eng/prodotto/hexad-sc041-ov / https://tavat-eyewear.com For more about Tavat click on the link: https://www.eyestylist.com/2018/10/tavat-eyewear-pantos-18k-gold/ CN

Trends: Super square

Big is definitely beautiful when it comes to square frames. This shape has re-emerged in 2019 with bold retro-inspired depth and bulkiness – or a minimalist airiness – in a choice of ingeneous colorations, that beg to be worn as modern statement pieces.

Above: Essedue model Ecstasy in grey from the Italian label’s Prima collection, a handfinished line produced in a family factory in Irpinia near Naples. Prima sunglasses by Essedue are available direct from the Essedue website at www.esseduesunglasses.com

Fuz by Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses

Frames with a classic retro flair are an easy bet for all-year-round styling, and the square designs are already being hyped for SS2020. Model Fuz from Oliver Goldsmith is one that has inspired many other sunglass designs. First created in London in 1966, the frame is still constructed with bold bevelled edges and paddle temples – and comes in lots of new colorways including black leopard (above) and black cherry. www.olivergoldsmith.com

Percy from the Centena Collection by Kirk and Kirk

The UK label Kirk & Kirk always delivers a classic shape with a unique twist. The Percy is one of their acrylic optical styles in the Centena collection, providing a magnificently bold silhouette with the flash of transparent colour that lights up the face. www.kirkandkirk.com

Finest Seven Zero 09 in Burnt Champagne

In contrast, Finest Seven brings on the square with a special super fine structure. Their oversized Zero 09 has a large squareish lens with a neat double bridge. The frame is made of stainless steel wire and fitted with 100% UV 400 high quality Italian lenses. For more details visit www.finestseven.com CN

Neo mint: Opal sunglasses by Lowercase

If you’ve never before tried pastel tones, the coming season is a good time to explore their beauty. In eyewear, transparent crystal, with just a dash of colour, has become an ideal companion for contemporary apparel, with soft pink, mint, blue or grey (on-trend now) infused in the acetate with subtlety and  modern appeal.

In tune with the mood, independent brand Lowercase has unveiled a set of modern tones in their made-in NYC collection, where mint green – a gorgeous hue in sync with the neo-mint palette – and tones like saffron are ideal choices for now – and months ahead.

Opal sunglasses by Lowercase

Designed in collaboration with California based swimwear label NU SWIM, the Opal sunglasses (pictured in mint green) feature a soft oval shape and elegantly slim arms. For protection, the frame is fitted with Carl Zeiss CR-39 sun lenses with optional polarization and -100% UVA/UVB protection. Launched this month, the frame is available for pre-order in mint (as well as canary yellow, red or honey) direct from the Lowercase site by visiting https://lowercasenyc.com/products/opal?variant=12309584216144 CN – for more on colour and new trends click on the link: https://www.eyestylist.com/2019/07/kensington-goes-california-the-eye-est-london/

Yi Wen Lim: Soft Power Mono-glass

The Mono-glass is part of RCA fashion graduate Yi Wen Lim’s SOFT POWER project (RCA 2019). SOFT POWER celebrates women at work and represents a new image of power and femininity.

RCA Fashion (Womenswear) graduate Yi Wen Lim has produced a stunning, wearable Mono-glass as part of a finals project entitled SOFT POWER.  The jewellery collection was designed in collaboration with Yi Wen Lim’s close jeweller friend Agatha (Instagram: @raccoonandbabiesofficial), and explores re-appropriating jewellery in the formal workplace. Above: Model Mercedes von Thun-Hohenstein wears Yi Wen Lim’s design 
Mono-glass worn by Mercedes von Thun-Hohenstein

Highlights in the collection include the merging of power pearls with everyday work accessories, stationery and tech wearables – these pieces include a biro pen cap ear cuff, Airpods pearl necklace, ID Badge necklace and the Mono-glass with Hair-clip.

Mono-glass by Yi Wen Lim
“The Mono-glass is inspired by work glasses that women wear, sometimes as a means to establish their intelligence and competence,” says the designer. “It is also inspired by tech accessories like the Google Glass, which perhaps can one day be integrated into more ‘aestheticised’ designs like the SOFT POWER Mono-glass,” she explains.
Mono-glass by Yi Wen Lim
Yi Wen Lim’s friend/muse Mercedes von Thun-Hohenstien (www.mercedesvonthun.com) wore the monocle design at the RCA finals presentation in London in June – and immediately caught our eye. “I found her through Instagram @mvthun21,” said Yi Wen Lim. “She is a mature model, and has been very generous with her time and support for me. She has modelled for my presentations and for video and photoshoots. We have become close over the past few months, and we are now great friends.” For more information about Yi Wen Lim’s work visit her page on Instagram – @__wenlim. Other RCA posts on Eyestylist: https://www.eyestylist.com/2016/12/rca-x-100-optical/ CN

Designer eyewear by Zac Posen: Renata

US fashion label Zac Posen has a new selection of optical frames for women, mixing soft, carefully paired colorations and materials such as acetate and metal with the couture designer’s creative expression and precision detailing. The collection includes ophthalmic model Renata, an excellent example of a wearable, feminine cat eye, produced in a classic combo of metal + acetate with the metal layered behind the acetate of the top brow and bridge – as well as at the hinge.

Renata by Zac Posen

Available in classic black (top image), plum tortoise and tortoise (above), this frame is a super all rounder for women who like the style of a cat’s eye with subtle hints of colour and simple paired back detailing – a feature of the collection overall which is carefully linked to Posen’s glamorous fashion pieces and unique signature style. To view more Zac Posen frame styles in this 2019 selection, visit www.kenmarkeyewear.com CN

Design Miami: See A Clean Future

The shift towards eco trends and sustainability is a continuing story in eyewear, with many new examples of eco-friendly innovations, greater sustainable focus in companies or more focused recycling endeavours in product and packaging.

One of the latest to launch is art initiative + e-commerce platform “One. All Every.” who has teamed with RVS Eyewear and Ugo Rondinone to launch See A Clean Future,  a line of colorful sustainable sunglasses, designed to raise awareness of environmental issues and climate change. The collection debuted at Design Miami in Basel Switzerland (the booth was made from wood and earth, pictured above) and is available for a limited period until June 2020.

Sunglasses designed by RVS Eyewear founder Vidal Erkohen

The frames consist of the innovative materials from the Italian Mazzucchelli company using their M49 bio-plastic, which is eco-friendly, recyclable, and biodegradable. The bioplastic is produced from cotton linters and wood fibers, which are purified into a pulp and then transformed into a resin known as M49. (www.mazzucchelli1849.it)

Sunglasses with eco-aware packaging

All metal inlays as well as temple hinges in the sunglasses are made of a recyclable stainless steel. The steel is coated with ion plating which protects the surface and allows the engraving of the frames. Ion plating is a physical vapor deposition process that uses concurrent or periodic bombardment of the substrate with aluminium, which is recyclable and non-toxic to the environment.

The sunglass lenses revert back to the traditional use of glass. According to the project directors, glass lenses are not only more environmentally sustainable but also ensure precision clarity and a refined aesthetic.

Packaging by Swiss artist Ugo Rondinone

Artist Ugo Rondinone’s designs are applied to the case and box containers, which are made from recycled cardboard and eco-friendly paper, made in London. Additionally, exhibition and furniture design at Design Miami consist of non-toxic and bio materials. The project supports the work of the Jane Goodall Institute, the Green Belt Movement and the E.O. Wilson Biodiversity Foundation. For more information: www.oneallevery.com CN

Bocca 20s1 by FACE A FACE

Sculptural pieces such as those in the Bocca collection are rare and intriguing. The frame named Bocca 20s1 is part of the 2019 collection by Creative Director Pascal Jaulent, a line that is delicate, colourful and always whimsical, with temples wearing miniature shoes of many cute varieties.

“Sometimes a detail is nearly invisible when transparent, while other times it is highlighted when colourful,” explains Jaulent of the  seductive, eye-catchin styling direction. “The manner in which light and colour intertwine is truly captivating.

The 20s1 model is one of the styles in the range inspired – in every precise detail – by the Art Deco movement. A thin highlighted line is visible over the brow, echoed in the coloration of the sculpted ‘shoes’ at the temple ends. For more Bocca styles, in acetate and metal, visit www.faceaface-paris.com CN

Kensington goes California: The Eye Est., London

The two year old Kensington optical boutique The Eye Establishment continues to lead the way in bringing fine eyewear collections to their local community – with an astutely curated selection of brands from around the globe – and the best optical parties in town. Located in a busy street near Earl’s Court, the shop itself stocks frames by L.G.R, Garrett Leight, Celine, DITA and Japanese label Eyevan 7285, among others. They have a beautiful selection of chains by Frame Chain, the trendsetting British accessories brand who have turned the eyewear chain into a must-have fashion staple.  Photography by Cesare Riccardi for Eyestylist.com. All rights reserved.

Sunglass trends: crystal colorations for summer (Photography by Cesare Riccardi)

Last week’s party brought together guests and regular customers for a full showing of the Garrett Leight Collection (GLCO) for Spring/Summer. The LA-based brand has sparked particular attention this season thanks to appearances by Leonardo DiCaprio and Brad Pitt at Cannes in their sunnies (Beach Sun and Calabar Sun) for the premiere of Quentin Tarantino’s Once Upon a Time…In Hollywood.

The Eye Est / eyewear: Garrett Leight Jacqueline Sun (Photography: Cesare Riccardi)

Unisex designs with a square shape and graduated lenses, cat eye silhouettes and quirky multi-sided shapes like the Jacqueline Sun (pictured above) were a big hit with guests. The crystal acetate sunnies are also doing well for the summer, particularly when paired with colorful lens tones of pink, blue or berry. Vintage touches lend a touch of old-school design, which everyone seems to love, with features like a defined keyhole bridge adding style and a comfortable fit.

Square shapes are a hit this summer (Photography by Cesare Riccardi)

The Eye Est. is run by Nadeem Rob and his wife, Fahmida Kamal. For more details about testing at the Eye Est. and to purchase frames online visit: www.eye-est.com. California party design exclusively for The Eye Est. by the Event Builders @theeventbuilders. Eyestylist.com thanks the Eye Est. for a warm welcome at their summer event. CN