The New York eyewear scene continues to see a healthy surge in creativity and directional trends. This month sees the launch of yet another newcomer called SpiltMilk Eyewear, set up with the creative input from the NYC based designer Vidal Erkohen (RVS Eyewear). Made in Japan, with focus on quality standards and innovative design concepts with a global inspiration, the collection is proposing some experimental ideas “to represent the conjunction between fashion and culture” and builds from a high-energy colour palette – on point for SS19.
In the mix for the launching collections of sunnies are designs that combine two shapes in one (Bali), a super round shape with inner rim connected with an open wire mesh (Bora Bora), a detailed aviator statement piece (Maldives) and a narrow elongated trendy wire form that is slightly upswept – in chic combos such as lime with scarlet and pastel pink with black (Phi Phi).
The new brand has been under development since 2017, and is owned by Saif Ghobash (London) and Judge Khanna (NYC) – a New York based accessories designer. Spilt Milk launches its first sunglasses collection at the end of October and goes online shortly at www.spiltmilkeyewear.com. CN
Internet brands are booming, and in sports-oriented sunwear there is now a confusing mass of online only brands selling direct to the consumer, with just a handful working that little bit extra to offer a balance of affordability, functionality, and, importantly, attentive customer service.
In the sports/leisure segment, Sungod Custom Optics – a start-up based in the UK and Verbier, Switzerland, has launched a customisable sunglasses collection – with a team of hard-core sports personalities endorsing the designs on Instagram including Stephanie Ede (duathlete/cyclist), Max Rowe (freestyle windsurfer) and Tom Bishop (triathlete).
The process of purchasing the product itself is different, quite fun, for the novelty, and super fast. You choose a shape (all quite standard), select the colours of the front, temples, lenses and logo icon – according to your personal preference – and then buy. The order – once processed, is with you within a couple of days (in my case 48 hours – the frames are assembled in the UK) and offers a Lifetime Guarantee promising that all breakages will be repaired – or fully replaced – free of charge. My first order included the Custom SIERRAS and the Custom Classics – both standard shapes, in one size, but just working ok for my smallish face shape and my son’s, who is 15. (Above: Custom SIERRAS).
UV protection is the key feature, and beyond that the sunglasses perform as a hard-wearing option for sports and outdoor activities at a realistic price (from £65.00) – this is of course significantly lower than equivalent all-round sport styles by Ray-Ban and Oakley.
For technical content, the 4KO Lenses are made from a 2mm Polycarbonate Core and you select from 5 lens tints that offer enhanced contrast and optimised clarity – the tint we selected in “smoke” was comfortable in bright conditions. Polarised versions are also available and judging by the number of water sports enthusiasts featured on the Instagram page, the lenses are adaptable and suitable for water sports.
The frame itself is made from the company’s Adventureproof Frame Material – this is a memory polymer – designed for durability, protection and high flexibility. It’s as good as any standard sports sunglasses material coming from China and it feels light and modern and pleasant to the touch. The colours are classic and easy-to-wear and a popular look for youngsters and the teen and 20+ market.
Sungod Custom Optics produces sports-oriented sunglasses and sports goggles. They have also launched a special signature series of models in collaboration with Pro Team Athletes including Hannah Whiteley and we expect to see more exciting projects from their young entrepreneurial team. For more details visit www.sungod.coCN
Handmade eyewear, of our time: Patinated Copper with Aluminum Magnesium
Ti Kwa’s commitment to design innovation is increasingly recognised across the industry and in the upper echelons of the optical retailing community and he continues to quietly push the boundaries in his work in materials, textures and specialist production techniques, with resounding individuality and an unmistakable style.
This September, his label RIGARDS explores an exceptional copper material finish with a gently-toned verdigris in a model designed for avant-garde fashion designer Ziggy Chen (RG1911CU), based on an existing “small and narrow” shape in the collection that has come to be known as the ‘Mad Scientist’.
The finish, a tribute to Bronze Age ritual vessels and their weathered slightly mottled greenish tones, appears in a unique way in all the models as the copper takes the patina finish differently from frame to frame.
“We added an interchangeable clip-on,” explains the designer. “Made from ultralight aluminum-magnesium — it locks onto the frame front and converts the glasses from optical frame to sunglasses. Two small side holes hold an eyeglass chain, allowing the sun-clip to double as jewellery.” Both the glasses and the clip-on can be fitted with lenses through built-in openings, part of RIGARDS’ exclusive screwless spring-hinge mechanism designed to ensure the product is both aesthetically pleasing and maintenance-free.
RIGARDS (from Hong Kong) was first launched in 2012, and exhibited their handcrafted buffalo horn eyewear months later at SILMO, the Paris eyewear fair (see our first story in 2012 at https://www.eyestylist.com/2012/11/rg0006/ ). Designer Ti Kwa has a refreshingly different perspective on design and has gradually opened eyes to the possibilities in creating exclusive artisan pieces with a distinctive modern approach to production techniques and eyewear aesthetics. RIGARDS exhibits at SILMO (Paris) and Paris Fashion Week. Don’t miss this collection: https://rigards.com CN
Specialists in sustainable eyewear since 2010, EOE from Swedish Lapland is heading to Italy later this week (21st-24th September) for WHITE Milano, a highly regarded fashion trade fair for women’s collections and accessories. It’s the independent brand’s first appearance at the 4-day event which is known as a creative launch “pad” for new and rising fashion labels from around the world.
Among the EOE styles for the coming season is the model above – Eljest, representative of the simple yet distinctive style in this highly eco-conscious collection in eyewear. The styles are recyclable and biodegradable, produced in an acetate material that contains no petroleum or poisonous phthalates, and to top it off, use steel parts produced from a carefully sourced recycled Swedish steel.
EOE Eyewear was founded by Erik and Emilia Lindmark during a snowmobile ride in the small village of Ammarnäs in Swedish Lapland. Their vision, they explain, was to create eyewear that combined the elegance and simplicity of Scandinavian design, with the barren beauty of the nature in the north of Sweden. The brand is one to watch for 2019 when they will announce a new exciting step in their achievements in sustainability and eco-friendly materials. www.eoe-eyewear.com CN
WHITE Milano takes place at Via Tortona 27 – for further details visit www.whiteshow.it
Celebrity-endorsed frames don’t get better than this. Vinylize has a unique position in being the only artisan producer of high-quality vinyl eyewear – hand-finished in the beautiful city of Budapest, which has become a destination for film, art and music enthusiasts…and it’s putting their exclusive handmade designs in the headlines at international events across the city.
A new shape designed for rapper Kendrick Lamar features a rhodium plated sterling silver brow piece on the vinyl front and was commissioned by Sziget, one of the biggest multicultural music and arts festivals in the city. For Lana del Rey, a bold unisex octagonal design has been created by designer and founder of Vinylize Zachary Tipton, and both are presented in packaging that resembles an original box set, with exclusive cover designs in black and gold.
Vinylize launches the two new limited styles today (from 31st August 2018) and they are available in a limited production exclusively by emailing email@example.com. Vinylize/TIPTON Eyeworks is based in Budapest and sells their collections – which include CINEMATIQ – worldwide in leading optical boutiques. www.vinylize.com CN
With a taste for modern design, well-planned contemporary fittings and new ideas, 27-year-old Nicolo Plebani says the new Indice store is hard to explain without mentioning every single detail that has gone into the final store design concept. “To my colleague Giovanni and I, Indice represents our passion for design, research and innovation, expressed through the world of optics”. The shop is, needless to say, far removed from the traditional optician’s store, and intentionally so.
Approximately 200m squared and split on two floors, this exemplary eyewear destination is located next to the imposing Cathedral of Brescia, a city located in the Northern Italian region of Lombardy. The setting is eye-catching and original with focus on a personal appreciation of design and creativity – a stunning environment for an eyewear experience and the ideal showcase for talented independent designers.
Silver leaf, iron and glass tables, and refined display cases and shelves, which rest on mirror carpets are some of the ad hoc elements in the modern space created for shoppers who appreciate fine design. Fittings also include Eames Vitra chairs, Afteroom stools and a purple armchair by Albini Cassina and the space is lit with Flos spotlights and lamps, further embellished with Poseidon Cattellan Italia chandeliers.
For eyewear choices, the store is equally avant-garde. The first collections available instore include Kuboraum, Cazal, SUPER (a special edition was launched by the store in June), and other equally individual lines, designed to give shoppers a different choice of products that combine extraordinary quality with good looks and a story far beyond the ordinary. Indice Vision is a new concept store by Nicolo Plebani and Giovanni Comotti – Address: Via Giulio Bevilacqua 7, Brescia – www.indice.vision – CN
TAVAT’s Round Mask is a 2018 must-have, a special take on their popular SoupCan design and, essentially, two designs in one. First featured on EYESTYLIST in January this year, the colours have since been expanded. Exciting effects in the material combination highlights the frame’s forward-focused aesthetic achieved by inserting an acetate mask into the body of a SoupCan style, the round model 2.0. The front is paired with flexible acetate sides pieces and the lenses are produced in top-notch melanin, a material that is UV protective and lightweight with excellent optical clarity. TAVAT Eyewear is designed in California and produced in Italy, and all frames have unique artisan features produced in advanced materials with superior functionality and comfort. Find out more at www.tavat-eyewear.comCN
Two of London’s youngest success stories in optics came together with the Celine Sunglasses team for a summer party in London’s Kensington in June. The Eye Est. opened in July 2017, and is one of London’s most elegant new optical and sunglass boutiques, located in a neighbourhood that supports their forward-thinking selection of fashionable eyewear and bold modern statement styling. Above, left to right: Fahmida Kamal Rob of The Eye Est., with Vanessa and Annie of Frame Chain.
The Eye Est. store currently stocks a range of design labels which include CELINE, Komono, Dita, and EYEVAN7285. It has also become known for its passion for coffee, and offers a unique espresso bar serving an independent London brew by Drury Coffee.
Frame Chain, London’s fast-expanding accessories label, has become known for its glamorous eyewear chains, available in fashion retailers such as Liberty’s in the UK and at leading optical retailers worldwide. The brand is the creation of entrepreneurs Vanessa Harrington and Ann-Margret Kearney, who have grown the fashionable appeal of the eyewear chain beyond all expectation in a short space of time.
Frame Chain’s latest line includes gold designs in yellow, white and rose versions as well as new finishes such as rhodium and enamel and decorative Swarovski and pearls. Inspired by jewellery, the chains can be worn with any glasses, or as a piece of jewellery on their own thanks to the changeable silicone ends. For more details visit www.eye-est.com and www.framechain.co.ukCN
One of Milan’s most sought after underground labels, Delirious Eyewear, merges vintage-inspired shapes, classic Italian production techniques and, brilliantly, a touch of the extrovert, in its 2018 sun and specs collections, designed by founder Marco Lanero.
The label has some intriguing connections in the music and fashion worlds. They include a regular link up on the Italian catwalks with Haitian-Italian fashion designer Stella Jean, who like Lanero, is known for an appreciation of precise craftsmanship and artisanal expertise. Above: Designer Stella Jean wears Delirious frame on the catwalk, Fall/Winter 2018 collection preview.
Delirious handcrafts glasses with “the best materials on the market”, explains Lanero who chooses natural buffalo horn, Mazzucchelli acetate – the highest quality available – Japanese titanium and protective Zeiss sun lenses, and talks at length about precise studies he has made into the reliability and durability of the luxury materials selected.
Emblematic of the styling and confidence of the collection is model Titania, produced in acetate and Japanese beta titanium with a shape that appears to do the near impossible – combining a round eye shape with the suggestion of a cat’s eye. All Delirious frames are free from branding, and the founder is defiant in his view on this: “You will never find our name on our products.” The idea is to focus on the excellence of the design and the quality, with impeccable finishing and a small stamp of approval via an engraving, “handcrafted in Italy.”
Delirious Eyewear was created in 2012, and first showed its titanium sunglasses on Stella Jean’s runway at the Fall/Winter 2017 show. The brand is now available in selected optical boutiques and a few prestigious fashion stores worldwide. A showroom is located in Milan at Alzaia Naviglio Pavese, 52. For more information, and further details visit www.deliriouseyewear.comCN
Continuing on a path that is fresh and ingenious, Padma Image from Japan has put out new styles for summer, including the quirky Moku Moku. Young designer Meiji Hasui has a love for asymmetrical concepts, and when these appear, they are always delicate with an intriguing elegance that is very flattering on the face. Model Moku Moku is now available in a range of soft acetate colorations with nice subtleties; tones include the black and white mottled effect and a graduated purple or bright blue.
All the frames are being produced in Makoto in Sabae, Japan, known as one of the most sought after production sites in the country for the highest quality crafting and finishing. The PADMA IMAGE brand is now 6 years old and well known in Japan in the most exclusive boutiques. The online store is now open at https://padmaimage.stores.jp/ – more details at http://padmaimage.comCN
Fascinated by Vogue and the work of couture designers, fashion illustrator Julie McGrath says she finds inspiration in creating their intricate designs on paper. With a profound love of fashion and art, her illustrations reflect a fascination for people watching and a great love for twisting proportions. She also finds creativity and inspiration in the imaginations of her children.
Can you tell us about your background in the arts? Originally from Massachusetts, I am now living in Florida. I attended the University of Massachusetts at Boston earning a bachelor’s degree in Art focusing in Art History. From there I went on to study in Illustration and Design, earning a Master of Arts degree from Savannah College of Art and Design.
And now?I’ve completed a second Masters at SCAD, this time in Art Administration. I teach visual arts and humanities at colleges and universities, and continue to evolve and nurture my style daily.
How long have you been an illustrator? Since I could hold a pencil. But really I only started considering myself an “illustrator” over the last five or six years. That is when I found my groove and my style.
When did you develop an interest in fashion and accessories?
In college. ‘Vogue’ became much more about the artistic concepts and less about the models and the consumer side of things. I started to understand it more as a form of art. Alexander McQueen had a pretty major influence in that understanding. With my love of art and this new understanding of fashion, my style was born! It took me a number of years to get into a rhythm with my specific style.
Who is your favorite designer? Some designers that always grab my attention are Dior, Giambattista Valli, Gucci, YSL…..I could go on and on! I love what Maria Grazia Chiuri is doing with Dior. Gucci is ALWAYS fun to draw.
Do you have a favorite illustration? I cannot say I have a specific favorite drawing. I truly love them all in different ways. However, the most fun are always the illustrations with sunglasses. Yes, my sunnies obsession plays a factor but also those are always the best when they are finished. Those illustrations always get the most attention and reaction and people truly love them.
In terms of the illustrations, I always make it my own by reminding myself that this is my work. In college when I took fine art focused classes, the point was always to draw what you see. I had a hard time shaking that idea and it haunted me in a lot of my illustration classes and then earlier in my career. At one point it just hit me, this style of drawing is mine; I can do what I want. So when I deter from the original image and give a twist on the human form I remind myself it is my work for me. I can do whatever I want.
Seeoo’s inimitable style comes together with ic! berlin tech in model Mona, a cat eye shape in two materials, acetate and high-tech steel, part of Seeoo’s Monaleon Collection launched late last year. The attractive shaping as well as original modern colour choices bring this eyewear line into a very unique position that ensures the wearer a special timeless look as well as excellent comfort and durability in the way in which the frame has been finished.
Seeoo is a specialist eyewear label from Austria, combining exclusivity, charm and technical precision. For more details and to see the full range of Seeoo products, visit www.seeooshop.eu CN
French creative designer Jean-François Rey announces the opening of a redesigned flagship store, located in Marseille in the South of France – home to the company. Two passionate young opticians take the helm of the store – Julia Maggio and Valentin Abrioux – which first opened in the French city in September 2008.
The shop has a new striking black facade with a new identity : ‘Jean-François Rey, Créateur Lunetier’, strengthening the link with the Jean-François Rey company, now over 30 years old with a global distribution. Inside, the shop has been completely transformed with a beautiful, chic and creative area for each of the company’s different specialists collections: JF Rey, JF Rey Petite, Kids&Teens, Boz, Volte Face, Sky Eyes, Jean-François Rey 1985 and LE CUIR.
The company told Eyestylist: “The result is just perfect. This is the universe of designers Joëlle and Jean-François Rey! Our intention was to express the mood of each of the brands, the spirit of the designer and the House Jean-François Rey. Our customers can now see each and every one of our collections, the inspiration, and the original, creative style of our frames.” Marseille, FranceCN
ic! berlin frames have been trialled in a rigorous series of Mars field simulations and experiments in the Omani desert, run by the Austrian Space Forum.
The AMADEE-18 Mars Analogue Mission studied equipment, procedures and work flows under the extreme ‘Martian-like’ conditions of the deserts of Dhofar, the largest governorate in the Sultanate of Oman. Above: photo taken during the AMADEE- 18 Mars Analogue Mission
During the simulations the analogue astronauts from the OeWF wore 45-kilogram robotic spacesuits equipped with their own power supply, communication systems and a variety of sensors. They also tested ic! berlin sunglasses – selected to protect their eyes from the desert sun and provide a lightweight technical solution for the face.
With an average weight of around 20 grams, ic! berlin’s advanced rubberized sunglasses combine features such as comfort and state-of-the-art UV protection with a reliable and robust construction, resilient screwless hinge and high-performance materials. The frames tested during the field work feature extremely flexible and lightweight 0.5mm spring stainless steel with a rubber polyurethane-based thermoplastic elastomer (TPE-U) coating which is scratch and heat resistant. More details: www.ic-berlin.deCN
There’s a good choice of different shapes in sunwear this season. As well as smaller proportions, frames can be as different as you like, evolving from the classics like ovals and rounds. FLEYE Copenhagen does this well with Alleno, a luxurious technical frame made from 23 thin layers of carbon fibre and one super slim layer of wood.
The shape is almond-like, with a geometric yet organic like structure and matt surface. The colours are as refined as the construction itself, and in tune with a very fashionable, youthful vibe: choose from velvet black (my choice for the season), silver wood, grape or sea blue. FLEYE Copenhagen specialises in innovative design, “Driven by curiosity.” Find the full collection at www.fleye.dk CN
Ørgreen is preparing the launch of its second Quantum collection, a high-tech minimal eyewear range that unites state-of-the-art eyewear materials and a unique hinge design (see https://www.eyestylist.com/2017/09/silmo-2017-one-week-go/ ) – the subject of much curiosity in the world of optics.
Consisting of 12 designs for men and women, the second Collection extends what the brand describes as “the preoccupation with contemporary urban identity, characterized by constant movement, freedom, and self-determination” with focus on the extra matte Polyamide fronts paired with titanium, and a new range of hues with a distinct yet understated direction.
Eyestylist asked Head of Design Tobias Wandrup to comment on what differentiates a frame with this level of technicality and state-of-the-art construction: “Quantum perfectly represents the minimal and functional DNA of the Ørgreen designs. And it’s in the DNA of this brand to continuously research and implement ways to increment the minimalistic aesthetic and the functionality of the frames. In that sense, Quantum is the Ørgreen state of the art.”
“Innovation is more and more a key factor for consumers, and brands are following this trend using innovative material, applying new technologies. It is of course a matter of balance. The brand needs to be able to do that without losing the aesthetic appeal – or compromising their design statement.”
For those who have not yet seen the product close up, as well as nice clean proportions typical of the label, the frames feature a minute spherical hinge which connects the titanium temple to the polyamide front, eliminating common eyewear components such as screws and bolts, and producing a finely honed minimal focus that fits perfectly with the Danish design aesthetic. Comfort, of course, is at the top of the agenda, and with high-performance materials like titanium and polyamide in combination, you can feel secure that the frame will wear well and stand the test of time. Find out more about eyewear innovations and the latest collections by Ørgreen Optics at www.orgreenoptics.comCN
Wear the Eyes SS18 – An Artisanal Eyewear Collection designed by Belgian fashion designer Anneleen Bertels for Liselore Frowijn ‘MEXICO’ SS18 collection. Handcrafted in collaboration with Eline De Winter and Vincent Verstrepen.
The SS18 “Wear the eyes”- collection by Anneleen Bertels in collaboration with Eline De Winter and Vincent Verstrepen is the search for the functionality of ‘viewing’ and the luxury of admiring eyewear as a custom-made piece of jewelry or fine art. Shaped in an entirely handcrafted manner, the designs are executed with close attention to detail and are exclusively available as a limited couture edition.
‘Wear the eyes’ is an architectural game of raw and refined metal drawings for the eyes with fractions of colours, inspired by the 3-dimensional shapes of swimming goggles and the sharpness of sports eyewear. The aim, according to Bertels, was to push the limit of what eyewear can and could be.
The artisan’s expertise is reflected by the way the lenses are placed on the frames, referencing ancient and traditional ways of setting stones and diamonds on jewelry. “These frames are shaped out of the idea that we should experience and feel our surroundings more consciously through the objects we are in touch with on a daily basis,” explains the designer. Anneleen aims to reach out for objects that have the power to create effective experiences and make us want to invest more in a tactile and emotional relationship and interaction with these objects over time.
For this collection, Anneleen Bertels collaborated with and called upon the expertise of jewelry designers and makers Vincent Verstrepen en Eline De Winter, who assisted her throughout the whole design process with their knowledge and insights. They crafted the eyewear in their atelier with extreme precision. All the coloured lenses were provided by Zeiss. The designs are available exclusively from the designer via www.anneleenbertels.be. CN
Vinylize extends their ranges this season with a new musical connection. The Official Vinylize x AC/DC collection is a special edition of “collectible” optical frames and sunglasses, with fronts laminated with the 22 x multi-platinum “Back in Black”, AC/DC’s seventh studio album and sixth international release, produced by Robert John “Mutt” Lange, which has gone down in history as one of the best-selling albums of all time.
The frames have the distinctive hand-finished nuances typical of the Budapest brand, with names inspired by the tracks on the album. Model Noise is linked to the final track on Back in Black – “Rock and Roll Ain’t Noise Pollution”, an anthem that captures the feeling of the time.
Three optical frames and three sunglasses (with polarised lenses) are available in the limited collection, each in three sizes. Find out more about handmade vinyl designs by Zach Tipton at www.vinylize.comCN
For those who love a throwback, the new wave of monochrome in fashion and home decor, with a nod to the 60s (and a hint of the 90s), comes with a modern flavour and directional elegance, whatever the context. In the accessory world, the trend is easy-to-wear and instantly on point, and designers – from specialists in eyewear to milliners and home furnishing creatives – are having fun with the mix, as a “fresh” redefined statement or classic combo. Above: AnifInChains, Athens, produce coloured chains including marble effects and black&white styles – for details: https://www.etsy.com/shop/AnifInChains
On the face, black and white or black and crystal provides a touch of drama and individuality, and an interesting alternative to all over black. Claire Goldsmith’s model Hathaway, a luxurious example, features a front in a thin black with crystal acetate, and a silhouette inspired by the cat eye with a deep, square form. More two-tone designs including Dalton (in Matte Slate & Storm) are featured in the CG line by the great-granddaughter of iconic designer Oliver Goldsmith: details at www.olivergoldsmith.com
Also combined on the front, the monochrome mix makes a statement in Vue DC’s CM 10, with the black along the brow and crystal outlining the eyes. The frame is handmade in France and stands out for its artisan finishing and artsy, charismatic silhouette. Find more inspiration at www.vuedc.frCN
Spring offers a fresh start and an opportune moment to update spectacles and sunglasses. On our radar for women are statement titanium and acetate designs with a clear identity and absolute precision in details, colours and flattering feminine shaping.
Falvin Eyewear’s model Orbit – from the Black Crystal Collection – exemplifies luxury sophistication in a Danish design concept where the handcrafted titanium frames come with precious platings of palladium, rose gold and 24 carat gold. Rendered in a subtle two-tone colour scheme, the frame is modern and fashion-forward and perfectly suited to everyday wear, with the kind of comfort and barely-there feel that ensures a pleasurable experience through long periods. www.falvineyewear.com
The sweet model Cosmos by Lafont Paris, an acetate design with a tri-colour combination, is a classical example of the cat’s eye shape with a playful femininity in pretty, fashionable pastels (colour way Cosmos 3100) of pink crystal and teal with bright blue temples. www.lafont.com
Delicate colours and a very narrow shaping create the feminine touch in model Bise by ic! berlin, part of the super fine silk collection – free from “unnecessary branding or ornament”. These designs have a new 3.5mm screwless hinge – a progressive frame feature that offers excellent slimline aesthetics and long-lasting comfort. The two tone front is a fun new look in a season of bolder eyewear statements and colour. www.ic-berlin.de
Morganne Leigh initially began Tyche + Iset Eyewear as a portfolio piece in order to attain graphic design jobs after college. Always a sunglasses enthusiast, Morganne decided to try her hand at product design after studying jewelry design. In order to stand apart for her debut collection (Autumn 2014), she chose to utilize her handwritten signature of “Los Angeles” across the top of the frame, laser etched into the acetate and rubbed with gold oil. Another exclusive detail, which is her brand’s signature, is the gold music note charm on every model’s temple tip. Casablanca (pictured above), is available in an elegant acetate in chestnut (brown multi) with almond brown lenses, magenta (magenta ombré to clear) with grey lenses, and slate(black ombré to clear) with a blue-grey lens.Find out more about the designer at www.tycheandiset.com CN
Japanese designer Masahiro Maruyama has a fresh, artistic approach to frame design. The erase collection, the latest series proposed by the young designer and a terrific example of his innovative style, applies the process of drawing and ‘erasing’, removing pieces of the frames and questioning the understanding of perfection.
Each frame is individually shaped by a skilled craftsman by filing the entire surface. This makes it possible to create a well-balanced combination of rim, endpiece, thickness of temple, and shape of nose pad for an excellent feel and fit. Intensive polishing allows for the very smooth finish and beautiful luster.
All Maruyama’s designs are produced in the eyewear region of Fukui, in Kawada ward, Sabae city. According to the designer, here, “the fine craftsmanship and quality goes without saying.” For more information about Maruyama, one of the most talked about Japanese young designers in original eyewear this season, visit www.masahiromaruyama.comCN
Tony Gross, co-founder of British eyewear brand Cutler & Gross has died, aged 78. Gross was an advocate of fashionable, trendsetting eyewear design that attracted fashion circles and celebrities including Elton John, Princess Diana and Grace Jones.
The Cutler & Gross label was started in London in 1969 by partners Tony and Graham, who met at optometry school in London in the ’60s. The entrepreneurial duo opened their first store in Knightsbridge in 1971, stocking handmade bespoke frames, designed, unlike most at the time, as a fashion accessory.
“Tony truly believed in the transcendence of spectacles from unattractive, government-funded pieces of eye science to a genuine fashion accessory infused with sex appeal and glamour.” Extract from Forty Years of Vision and Style, 2009.
“I still have vivid memories of meeting Tony at Optometry College in London,” says Graham Cutler. “We were looking for something to occupy ourselves at lunchtimes, and Tony suggested poker. So he taught me how to play and groups of us would play each day for money. He had been a professional player before going to College, so was very successful! We also discovered that we had met a lot of the same people in our earlier rambles around Soho.
“After college our friendship continued, and we ended up working for the same group of Optometrists in London, and often working together. We started talking about opening our own practice, where we would each be able to work just six months of the year. Obviously that plan didn’t work out!”
Marie Wilkinson, Design Director for over 30 years at Cutler & Gross said: “He was, without question, a pioneer, turning eyewear into the genuine fashion accessory infused with sex appeal and glamour that we know today. The first three decades of the brand’s existence had much to do with Tony’s formidable social appetite and his ability to mix just as easily with Royalty and music stars, as with his wonderful friends that filled the Cutler & Gross stores. Tony’s enthusiasm and taste were undeniably infectious, and coupled with his skill as an Optometrist, drew huge cross-sections of people to the brand. His spirit continues to give Cutler & Gross its unique and much loved personality to this day. He will be sorely missed.” Portrait (top) by Dennis Rolfe / www.cutlerandgross.com CN
Isabelle Lunettes Nantes, interior design by Decodheure: redesigned in 2017, the new store explores colour and minimal open spaces to highlight exclusive individual eyewear collections.
“I first opened my shop in 2008, in a collaboration with the network Rien Ne Va Plus,” explains Isabelle, the owner of Isabelle Lunettes in Nantes, one of the most beautiful optical stores we have seen in Europe in recent months.
“The shop was originally, “Le Petit Salon des Créateurs.” In 2017, I decided to leave the group and became completely independent. At that time I got in touch with friends who owned an agency in Nantes called Idile Edito and I started the year with a total redesign of our visual image and graphics. We changed the name, the logo, and the graphics completely. And then I realised it was also the right time to change the interior.”
By the end of the year, Isabelle had completely transformed the store with a new striking interior. “It was natural to choose Decodheure (www.decodheure.com). Sandie and Pierre-Edouard were introduced to me by my communications agency Idile Edito who have worked with each other on many different projects. When we met, we were completely in tune with the vision and design and I was able to put all my trust in their work. The project was completely focused on DESIGN – GRAPHICS – and COLOUR….”
“I am completely in love with the new store, I feel completely at home here. The interior design corresponds completely to my vision of creative eyewear: chic, modern, and very colourful”, Isabelle told Eyestylist.
Featured brands: Cutler & Gross / Dita / Thom Browne / Struktur / l.a. eyeworks / Coblens / Kuboraum / Kaleos Eyehunters / Blake Kuwahara / Clément Lunetier / Robert La Roche. Address: 24 Rue de Strasbourg, 44000 Nantes, France – www.isabellelunettes.fr Interior design by https://decodheure.comCN
Copenhagen Fashion Week is underway, and as always, the Danish brand Ørgreen has something special to show. Its new 3d printed collection with Yuniku is presented in a spectacular design window by GamFratesi at the flagship store in Store Regnegade 1, a street that boasts some of the city’s most fashionable shopping destinations.
Drawing attention to the exclusive customised collection which currently has 12 models in six colours, the GamFratesi installation takes inspiration from Pablo Picasso’s diverse and eclectic approach to portraiture, never rendering one face in the same way. The accentuated quirks of Picasso’s portraits—evident in the portrayal of his muses Dora Maar, Olga Khokhlova, and his daughter, May—work to celebrate the diversity amongst people: their unique shape, size, and spirit.
The partnership between Ørgreen and Yuniku is an extension of Ørgreen’s desire to provide diverse product range choices for a wider spectrum of consumers, always with respect to a Nordic aesthetic, and with an eye for the newest technological innovation.
Meaning “unique” in Japanese, Yuniku celebrates the uniqueness of the human face with a special scanner that measures facial features. By taking the lifestyle of the consumer into account, lenses are individually designed while the frame is 3D printed around the individual’s visual needs, all in all matching vision, face and personal styling. More details at www.orgreenoptics.comCN
London’s fair at ExCel, 100% Optical, presented an array of new looks in eyewear, from designers and companies across the international frame and sunglasses business. The UK demand for individual glasses is growing, and astute independent opticians have realised the gains in searching for the less easy to find labels, offering creative shapes, innovative, technical frames and beautiful eyewear materials and colours. Above: TAVAT Tactile: from Italy, an evolution in its timeless collection of fine acetate and metal/acetate combination designs. www.tavateyewear.com
Highlighted at the fair, Silhouette’s extensive launches for 2018 include a collaboration with Perret Schaad, representing a new re-craft of Silhouette’s iconic Titan Minimal Art frame for Spring/Summer 2018.
Johanna Perret and Tutia Schaad, the pair behind the label, are best known for sleek, minimalist designs. For Silhouette, the resulting frame takes the form of a unique modified hexagon shape – with cutout on the outer side of each lens -which embodies influences of architecture and geometric styling. Despite the dramatic angles, the design personifies the designers’ passion for minimalism and weightlessness. www.silhouette.com
The colour palette for 2018 encourages bold, exciting statements and 100% helped to highlight the very latest hues. Along with an array of new neutrals, we were impressed by the prevalence of the colour purple, which, with many other pastel tones from pale pink to baby blue and pistachio, is making a huge impression for the coming season. Fresh colour combinations were particularly lively at the independent labels we visited and tone-on-tone effects where lenses match the frame, were fresh and sophisticated. Above: Andy Wolf’s sunglass model Austin, in lilac. The lens tone blends with the frame hue: www.andy-wolf.com
Protective, stylish cases are an important element in eyewear and the array of styles has become more creative and luxurious. Butti Eyewear Cases, a new British label, produces a refined slip case design with a hard protective layer and a silk lining, perfectly suited to modern tastes. A small leather tab releases the glasses! Made in the UK, the brightly coloured cases are produced in Italian leather with a smart lustrous finish. Butti made their first appearance at the 100% fair: find details at www.butti.co.uk
This year, 100%’s excellent “Celebration of Vision” competition for RCA students offered a fascinating insight into the creative talent of the future in the UK. Two winners were announced this weekend: well done to Julia Hauss, (Womenswear –Fashion, Year 1), who designed frames based on children’s birthdays and the joy they bring, and Ely Cao, (Womenswear – Accessories, Year 1), who proposed “a gift from the crazy optician” – a box containing 94 imaginative multi-coloured modular eyewear pieces, “full of possibilities”.
Parisian eyewear designer Alain Mikli and haute couture designer Alexandre Vauthier have today shown an edition of avant-garde eyewear captured through the lens of Mert & Marcus on British fashion icon, Kate Moss. Above: Moss wears model Roselyne
The collaboration includes four styles: Edwidge, Edwidge jeweled, Roselyne, and Nadége that appeared on the runway at the Alexandre Vauthier Haute Couture show today at Paris Couture week, with much comment.
Since the launch of his Haute Couture range in 2009, Vauthier’s luxurious and futuristic fabrics, Parisian savoir-faire and vision of the female body have ensured his creations have seduced clients around the world. CN
Photography credit: Kate Moss wears the Alain Mikli x Alexandre Vauthier Edwidge jeweled and the Roselyne in Noir Mikli with Swarovski Crystals and Grey lenses.
London’s 100% Optical takes place on 27th to 29th January, and promises an exciting event, celebrating 5 years of success at the city’s ExCel centre. Many different types of eyewear will be showcased during the weekend, with companies travelling from far and wide.
The Austrian company SILHOUETTE will launch the new Alpha Collection to UK opticians, a new addition expanding the Titan Minimal Art range. The Collection introduces a number of distinguished technical highlights, focusing on an architecturally modern design. A striking nose bridge and an updated metallic temple aesthetic, with the choice of a polished or matte finish, combined with a delicate decorative element are also highlighted. New to the range, inspired by recent SS18 trends, is the luxurious brass and rose gold metal surface. www.silhouette.com
LINDBERG’s presence in the UK continues to go from strength to strength and the Danish company will showcase highlights from across its collections for 2018. Watch out for their Sirius Titanium which won the Red Dot Award in 2017. More details at www.lindberg.com
The ‘Be Hot’ shapes in the WOOW Wool collection have light metal fronts and beautiful matching “Argyll” socks on the temples. Be Hot comes in 2 shapes and 6 colour combinations, and celebrates five years of the Woow Eyewear brand. BeHot1 is typically colourful and upbeat in a line that brings a youthful energy to eyewear! Woow is part of Design Eyewear Group and can be found at their stand at 100%. www.wooweyewear.com
Gotti Switzerland offers a diverse collection of smart, minimal eyewear including 3d printed luxury styles (DIMENSION), a lightweight trendy rimless collection (Perspective) and design classics in titanium and buffalo horn. The new DIMENSION frames offer the ultimate in personalised 3d printed eyewear – with a touch of bold colour! www.gotti.ch
EYESHAKER, an Austrian company who first launched their cleaning product in 2017, will also exhibit in London for the first time. This product is a brilliantly simple way to thoroughly clean away dust, makeup, sweat or finger prints, and keeps frames and lenses looking smart and stylish. A must-have for the optical practice. Try the product out at the Eyeshaker booth or visit www.eyeshaker.at
The Soul Collection by Andy Wolf offers classic design with trend-led nuances of colour and design. Model Amira is the ultimate round style with a unique narrow metal bridge and bold canary yellow colour choice. Find more classic tones and brights in the Soul Collection at 100% and on www.andy-wolf.com
100% Optical will showcase a range of independent labels in 2018 including the following brands: Andy Wolf, Booth & Bruce, Cazal, Dandy’s, Eyeshaker, Francis Klein, Gotti Switzerland, Kirk & Kirk, Neubau, Savile Row, MODO, Markus T, Tavat and Silhouette. For more information visit www.100percentoptical.comCN
Eye Q boutique owner Alicia Hartman has introduced us to her first eyewear collection, developed in Barbados in a design collaboration with the celebrity sunglass designer Eric Jean. Launched on the beach in December, the new limited edition – Peoples from Barbados – “PFB” is a celebration of the island’s rich culture and people, with styling that encapsulates style, Caribbean adventure, joie de vivre and “Bajan soul”. The launch coincides with the 50th Anniversary of the island’s independence.
Alicia met designer Eric Jean last April.”It was the beginning of a journey that turned a dream into a reality,” she told Eyestylist. “We started to work on a capsule collection of sunglasses for men and women, a unique concept of glasses that captures everything that Barbados represents for me.”
The collection features made in Japan temple printing reflecting the excellence of the overall quality of production. High end acetates combine with pure stainless steel temples and special features such as a unique screwless flat stainless steel hinge and subtle bespoke gradient mirrors. Signature end tips come in colours which match the fronts. Unique lamination techniques and Japanese polishing produce glossy to subtle matt finishes that give a luxury fit and feel.
EYE Q stocks niche and independent eyewear brands with a focus on craftsmanship and style, and will now add the PFB line, designed in Barbados.