Eyewear directions: Hall of Frames

The popular annual eyewear fair Hall of Frames (Zurich, Switzerland) has issued imagery from its new season shoot which took place on site at Papiersaal over a sunny weekend in September. The frames featured include a mix of advanced materials, from  lightweight titanium to 3d printed designs, with state-of-the-art details, classically inspired shapes and interesting finishes and treatments. Above: Ørgreen Optics Coeda 964, produced in 100% pure titanium and beta-titanium. www.orgreenoptics.com Photography by Nina-Maria Glahé

Funk eyewear model Authari Raw in a crystal finish / Photography by Nina-Maria Glahé

Dieter Funk’s acetate frames, produced in Bavaria, Germany, lean toward classic or timeless design principles, with modern updates taking the form of special colorations and material/tonal combinations. For more details: www.funkbrillen.com

Coblens: Endlos 7 rimless design

The Endlos series by Gmerna-based company Coblens combines titanium temples with modern rimless fronts; the frame front and sides are attached to the lenses with small antique inspired screws with a hexagonal shape. www.coblens.com

Ørgreen Optics: less-is-more in the Quantum collection

Quantum spectacles have an outstanding spherical hinge design and light construction in 3D printed polyamide. The innovative choice of subtle and bright colours is one of many highlights of the Danish brand’s eyewear expertise. www.orgreenoptics.com / Photography by Nina-Maria Glahé for Hall of Frames: https://www.ninamariaglahe.com/All rights reserved.

The next edition of Hall of Frames will take place on 13th and 14th September 2020. For more details, visit www.hallofframes.ch CN

Matali Crasset X theo: Dialogues

Creative energies are running particularly high at theo this year, in preparation for 2020. SILMO saw an ingenious spread of collections, among them a fresh collaborative series – the third of its kind for theo – with designer Matali Crasset. ‘Dialogues’ explores conversation and chat, with focus on the two eyewear basics – the lens and whatever goes around it; how the two interact together or relate beyond the classic ‘glasses’ form becomes a feature and a “talking point” – without constraint in the construction or the technical finesse (of course!). Above: Model Debate, in fluo pink, by theo X Matali Crasset

Model Talk – © 2018 copyright protected Artworks,
Photography & Graphic Design!

“The shape of the lenses is radically different from what Matali has created before” theo eyewear

Expressive, comfortable, surprisingly easy to wear. The result is six titanium styles with Crasset’s “signature” which bring a unique focus to the eyes of the wearer. Single colours emphasise the drama of the openwork and “floating effects”, exploring a bold vision, in theo style – with exquisite tones of fluo pink and orange through to sophisticated monochrome black or white – the two colours that Crasset wears herself.

Model Gossip – © 2018 copyright protected Artworks,
Photography & Graphic Design!

Dialogues by theo X Matali Crasset was launched in Paris in September 2019; the frames will shortly become available in theo opticians worldwide. The collaborators have simultaneously launched ‘Blurred’, an even more ‘rebellious’ limited edition related to the Dialogues designs and created solely in black and white.

Matali Crasset is an industrial designer from France.  She has become known for a refusal of pure shape in her work and develops new typologies articulated around principles such as modularity, appropriation, and flexibility. She has worked on far-reaching projects in different disciplines and with leading brands including Alessi, Nodus and Le Buisson. For more information visit www.theo.be / www.matalicrasset.com CN

The Galápagos Collection by Tyche & Iset Eyewear

A fresh, luxury sunglasses collection, produced in premium materials from young LA-based female designer Morganne Leigh takes inspiration from the Galápagos Islands and its untamed flora and fauna. Highlights include model ‘Las Iguanas’ a timeless, unisex oval shape with creative details that simulate the textures and features of the islands’ most prominent lizard species.

“The Marine Iguana species can only be found on the Galápagos Islands. It is the only lizard species on Earth that lives on land, but swims in the sea to forage and feed on algae. Through evolution, it’s snout has been perfectly formed for this task; this inspired our nose bridge shape.” Morganne Leigh, Tyche & Iset

Details: Las Iguanas with signature music note temple charm and sculptured nose bridge

Her third unique collection to date, Leigh has a fresh, innovative touch in eyewear design and an experimental creative vision, coming from other arts disciplines and having trained as a painter and graphic designer. The new collection is a beautiful representation of her work, with details and finishes that are subtly tied to the magical natural volcanic archipelago in the Pacific Ocean.

A participant of the Elaine Gold Launch Pad Program 2018-19, the designer recently won the prestigious emerging designers award with the CFDA and Accessories Council (a USA award) gaining new funding to further execute new ideas toward technology, sustainability, and innovation for her brand which she first launched in 2014. For further details on her new Galápagos styles at Tyche & Iset, visit https://www.tycheandiset.com/collections/the-galapagos-collection.For previous features on Eyestylist with Tyche and Iset visit https://www.eyestylist.com/2018/04/feminine-for-s-s18-4-unique-designs/ CN

Paris Fashion Week SS20

A little less sunshine (and fewer sunglasses on the street) but just as beautiful as ever, Paris Fashion Week’s street style looks were bold and breathtaking or deeply influenced by tradition. In eyewear, a sincere love and respect for heritage and classic couture was evident across the city with vintage designs and clean architectural shapes in muted tones being most popular with all generations. Above: Anna Dello Russo wearing an oversized mask in black. Photography by Gennaro D’Elia for Eyestylist.com.

Russian Model Alina wears thick rimmed tortoise sunglasses with leopard print

The cat’s eye continued to enjoy a spectacular showing at Paris, as in London and NYC – with all versions, from small and sleek to large or elongated worn by women – and increasingly, men too.

Elongated cat’s eyes: @kandelissa @mikhaelkale – Photo by Gennaro D’Elia

The elongated and sharply pointed cat’s eyes worn by many celebrities are still in vogue with the darker colours remaining the most elegant trend-driven statement for a striking finish or unique look – above, worn by Jessica (@kandelissa) with Mikhael Kale (SS20).

Leila Depina #PFW in small round sunnies

Metal frames have really taken off with a few particular shapes such as small rounds and ovals doing well. Our sightings of these styles indicated that this trend is strong and still growing.

Caro Daur : Valentino – photo by Gennaro D’Elia

With less rays throughout the week there was a chance to catch some models and influencers in glamorous glasses. Caroline Daur (influencer, blogger and entrepreneur – www.carodaur.com) wore a classic black cat eye with head to toe Valentino for the @maisonvalentino show by Pierpaolo Piccioli. Photography by Gennaro D’Elia exclusively for Eyestylist.com. CN

Silmo Paris: notes on what’s to come

Silmo is a key event in the optical fair calendar where we discover innovations, new directions and trends in eyewear for the season ahead. This year, the breadth of creative proposals was significant, and attendance by independent labels showed a strong movement toward individual design, high level production and experimental work and expertise in colour, materials and eco-oriented design.

At Silmo, Tavat Eyewear showed their new avant-garde SpamCan Collection, the next step on from SoupCan, inspired by the quadratical shape of the iconic spam can or tin. Made from an impressive material composed of bronze, zinc and nickel, this new departure is highly technical and elaborate, with 27 components and a hinge based on the high-precision Swiss watch crown mechanism. The sunglasses are fitted with melanin sunglass lenses. Find out more at www.tavat-eyewear.com

Metamorphosis by You Mawo

You Mawo’s showpieces at Silmo included the Metamorphosis 3D printed Limited series and a visor design (above) with futuristic 3D side pieces. The main line has also expanded with some strong fashion shapes (cateye model Lyra) and a beautiful round design called Selene. www.youmawo.com

 

SUSTAIN by Monoqool

Monoqool launched the SUSTAIN sunglasses, a first 3d printed design made from castor beans farmed sustainably in India through the Pragati Initiative (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHe1N43IN8o ). The company has entered the Sustain programme supported by the AM-Hub organisation in Denmark with the goal of helping a selected number of small/medium size Danish companies to develop sustainable manufacturing via 3D print technology. www.monoqool.com

Passion for purple at Kirk & Kirk

Kirk & Kirk have done much to promote the benefits of colourful eyewear proposals from the UK, and continue to put out glorious colorations, in both their Centena and Kaleidscope collections, with emphasis on new tones of blue, pink and mauve. www.kirkandkirk.com

ROLF Spectacles: Titanium Skyline – advanced tech + crafting

The Skyline collection at ROLF Spectacles is exceptional in its avantgarde designs in 3D printed titanium. The new styles have stunning combinations of smooth and textured ‘volcanic-like’ surfaces as well as offering a lightweight, easy-to-wear eyewear solution – putting this line in a category of its own. Image above: Photographer: Clemens Ascher http://www.clemensascher.com and clothes by Mühlmann https://www.muehlmann.eu  For more information about ROLF, visit www.rolfspectacles.com

VAERK no 104 in Champagne

New brands were plentiful at Silmo, the best ones focusing on advanced technology and technical know-how. VAERK Copenhagen puts the emphasis on beautiful engineering, tech and Danish design traditions. In collaboration with the renowned Danish industrial design duo Harrit-Sørensen, this brand has developed an innovative hinge concept that not only constitutes high level precision but also an aesthetically appealing link between the frame front and temple. www.vaerkcopenhagen.com

Covrt Project: high-tech urban design / made in Italy

In a completely different departure for street style aficionados, London-based designer and creative director Marcello Martino launched Covrt Project in the “start-up” area of the Silmo fair. This bold Italian made collection includes 7 sunglass styles with advanced tech features focused on enhanced comfort, durability and individual design. The collection is accompanied by unique accessories: find out more at  https://covrtproject.com.

SILMO Paris will take place from 2nd to 5th October 2020 at Paris Nord Villepinte. For more information visit www.silmoparis.com Eyestylist will report on more trends and new updates following SILMO Paris in the weeks ahead. This feature was written by Clodagh Norton. Please seek permission for reprints. All rights reserved.

Rigards for UJOH: Paris launch

Ti Kwa’s avant-garde eyewear label Rigards always has something special to show at Paris Fashion Week and SILMO at this time of year – and for 2019 it’s a very special cat eye inspired by nature.

Collaborating with UJOH, Mitsuru Nishizaki’s award-winning womenswear line, model RG0123UJOH+ builds upon the traditional winged silhouette, with its upswept double rims, one made of ultralight aluminum-magnesium and the other of surgical-steel. The semi-stacked construction and negative-space cut away creates an illusion that the inner rims are floating over the face.

The frame’s aesthetic pays special homage to dragonflies and damselflies, insects which the designer has studied with a keen eye. Despite their simple origin from “incomplete” metamorphoses and fragile wings of gossamer, they have come to symbolize beauty, ferocity, and purity of habitat, in almost every part of the world.

A second model – RG0123UJOH – was created alongside this masterpiece. This style is described as “a little more subtle” without the statement-making cut-out (and thus the colour contrast), yet still offering a resolutely distinctive and individual alternative for the less-audacious wearer.

Both styles are released in six colours, one of the highlights of which is Red—nicknamed ‘Akatombo’ (Red Dragonfly), a nod to the iconic creatures of Japanese nostalgia and song. Find out more by visiting Rigards at SILMO or Paris Fashion Week, or go to www.rigards.com – for previous features on Rigards via Eyestylist visit https://www.eyestylist.com/2019/08/the-viridi-anne-x-rigards-glasses-with-clip/  CN

 

Milan Fashion Week

Synonymous with quality and chic, trendsetting style, Milan’s fashion week continues to be a mecca for luxury street style, good taste and individual dressing. Here is a sneak peek outside the SS20 catwalks by Italian photographer Gennaro D’Elia. Above: Leila Depina wears vintage Cazal – model 913, first launched in 2001.

Jessica Wang in metal rimmed sunglasses

Jessica Wang (www.notjessfashion.com) looked stunning in oval metal sunnies.

@SISSIZHANG in Gentle Monster X FENDI

Fashion buyer @SISSIZHANG wore the latest style in the Gentle Monster X FENDI collab.

Armela Jakova

Logos are worn with pride in Milan. Digital content creator and speaker Armela Jakova wore Gucci. For more photos from Milan Fashion Week visit our Instagram page @eyestylistmagazine. Photography by Gennaro D’Elia exclusively for Eyestylist.com.

Blackfin One: Bayou in titanium

New main line titanium styles by Blackfin are hot off the press for the Autumn season, with a careful focus on innovative technical details and uncompromising quality construction – features that have long been at the heart of this tech-loving, innovation-driven family firm. The five shapes releasing include a panto-inspired frame called Bayou, a classically round Blackfin design with ultra-flex titanium bridge and temples in beta titanium – a material selected for its extra strength and flexibility when combined with titanium.

The color palette for Bayou ranges from the more masculine – dark blue paired with a bright red (below), black or midnight blue – to the more feminine shades of blush pink or midnight blue combined with the brightest tone of magenta.

Blackfin Bayou: a brighter lining creates a fresh colour mix

All the new styles in the range are fitted with tilting nose pads and Blackfin’s Swordfish temple tips. Find them at Silmo Paris this month and visit the website for all the latest releases as they appear at www.blackfin.eu. CN

For more on Blackfin visit: https://www.eyestylist.com/2019/07/blackfin-bocelli-musical-philanthropy/

Exclusive: Regrind by EOE Eyewear

The founders of the Northern Swedish company EOE have created the first edition of eyewear made from recycled broken and discarded plastic eyewear. The collection and campaign launch this month in Paris.

Commitment to research. Investment in new technology for recycling. And admirable perseverance to set up a workable system for recycling frames in Sweden in a collaboration with the Nordic company Synsam and Vision for All. The founders of EOE Erik and Emilia Lindmark have worked for over three years on the recycling project to create a frame material with performance properties comparable to new acetate and an aesthetic finish and choice of colorations suitable for the creation of high-quality trend-focused products.

Launching the concept with the Regrind edition of three sunglasses, attention has been placed on creating a chic look in the coloration using predominantly black frames for the “regrinding” process. Tiny smatterings of minute coloured frame pieces are just visible, and create a textured effect on the surface, the look of which is wholly dependent on the types of frames recycled, the predominant colours of the frame pieces and the quality of the acetate of the old frames. Above: EOE’s new video illustrates the concept developed by EOE for turning old unwanted eyewear into a recycled material for new chic eyewear.

EOE Regrind – Photography by Farago & Farago

Regrind debuts as a fashion collection in a stunning campaign by fashion photographers Peter Farago and Ingela Klemetz Farago (www.faragofarago.com) which highlights the  idiosyncrasies of the material in a beautiful wild and natural Swedish landscape.

EOE recycled acetate material is produced by EOE together with engineers, chemists and physicists. The frames are shattered into small pieces and the metal parts are then filtered out. The plastic pieces then undergo a regrinding process to create new blocks of raw material. 98% of the old eyewear is recyclable. EOE uses recycled steel from Sweden to produce the metal parts of the frames. In August the company was recognised by Encouragement for Action – Stockholm Fashion District in the “closing the loop” category, part of an award scheme to raise awareness and bring attention to important ideas in sustainability, digitization and fashion tech.

Find out more at www.eoe-regrind.com or visit EOE at Silmo 2019 (the Paris trade fair) on stand 5A 119. / www.eoe-eyewear.com – Written By Clodagh Norton

Silmo Insights: 2019

The Silmo fair in September (international trade fair) is the pinnacle of the “eyewear designers” calendar of events, and provides our eyes with a feast of colour and innovation in design from well-known, new and up-and-coming labels who descend on Paris for several days. It’s the place we love to scout for innovation, new trends, and unique eyewear and accessories from all around the world.

Joining the line up are many companies who return to the event every year. The Marseilles designer Jean-François Rey launches new designs across multiple collections at the event, with a principal focus on expertise in colour, design creativity and beautiful French artisan quality. Highlights this year will include the new Wave collection (above) – an architecture-inspired eyewear concept using stainless steel to create lightweight, airy structures with a “folding effect” achieved by hand. Gorgeous hand applied colour combinations provide an eye-catching effect on the face. www.jfrey.fr

Deckard by Oscar Magnuson – exquisite design, colour and hand-finished ‘sculpted’ ‘eco’ acetate

From Sweden, Oscar Magnuson returns each year to Paris, this time with a bio-acetate collection that marries a bold structural look with the quality and pared-down purity of high-quality Swedish design. The sunglasses collection in the same material include some statement micro shapes (model Sid) and oversized classics (model Debbie) and across the lines you will find a palette of monochrome tones such as urban green, crystal grey and deep ink – a deep sophisticated and moody tone that makes a clever alternative to black. www.oscarmagnuson.com

Diffuser Tokyo: first time at Silmo

Their first time showing to the international audience at Silmo, Diffuser Tokyo – by Masaki Hirose – will reveal its comprehensive high-quality range of accessories which include cases, frame holders and eyewear pouches in a fresh concept that highlights quality materials and well designed functional products. Preview their ranges at www.diffuser-tokyo.com. We are already big fans.

Andy by SALT. Optics in a glowing hue of ‘whiskey’

Brand new crystal colorations and nature-infused tones are a feature for next year’s sunglasses collections. Californian label SALT. Optics is introducing new styles in their C2-19 collection which is poised to deliver beautiful heritage-inspired eyewear, made in Japan with exclusive quality features (incredible hardware through to chic glass lenses) and subtle colorations of dusty rose, hazy taupe, mojave and whiskey (above). Find out more at www.saltoptics.com

Mr Lenoir Lunettes, by Djibril Cissé with Laurent Balducelli

Another new name at Silmo this year, Mr Lenoir is the official brand of former football player Djibril Cissé, with optical and sunglass designs created in partnership with Laurent Balducelli, a French optician and specialist in bespoke eyewear. Produced in Montbeliard in France, the eclectic range of styles are made from Mazzucchelli acetate and in some cases feature metal laser cutting and chemical etching. They are available at a few independent stores already, both in and outside France. For more information visit their Instagram page @mrlenoirlunettes.

Von Arkel – a winning combination of luxury + innovation

For luxurious, cutting-edge design, the Swiss brand Von Arkel stands apart in its achievements in applying the technical precision and craftsmanship of watchmaking to luxury frames, produced by master craftsmen in Morges in Switzerland. New sophisticated concepts will show on the Von Arkel stand at the Paris show this month: www.vonarkel.com

Silmo Paris – the international eyewear and optics fair – takes place from 27th to 30th September 2019 at Paris Nord Villepinte. For further details and registration visit  www.silmoparis.com Watch our Design + Inspiration page for the next weeks for more updates and previews for the Paris show!

Chic + characterful: Laurence D’Ari, Antwerp

“Antwerp heart, Italian hands”

Antwerp creator and avid eyewear collector Laurence Bourguignon says she doesn’t follow trends nor does she focus on a specific target group or age. “My designs are an expression of myself and who I am. I can only hope they will be picked up by women with a genuine and self-confident personality, daring to express themselves.”

Named after her father Ari (short for Aristide), the collection remains something of a special ‘secret’ outside Belgium, although it’s stocked in some prestigious optical stores and luxury fashion stores like Azzurro Due (www.azzurrodue.com). Pictured above: model Authentic in Honey – a showpiece in the Laurence D’Ari collection.

Model Spirited by Laurence D’Ari – in Crystal Green

The 8 sunglasses in the 2019 selection – named after characteristics of personalities which the designer admires (they include ‘Devoted’ and ‘Spirited’) are crafted in Italy in rich marble-effect acetates with bold organic or angular oversized forms and retro-infused squares and cat eyes that have characteristic sculptural definition in some details such as a wave effect in the lower edge of the temples, and an open gold temple ring to attach the accompanying gold chain.

Eyewear with charisma: Laurence d’Ari model Devoted in Black Marble

Laurence D’Ari launched in 2018 with focus on strong, charismatic elegant styling inspired by vintage elements, especially for women. The sunglasses are available in selected opticians (including Annys Optiek, De Wilde, Philip Hoet and Frank Props) and several fashion concept stores known for unique designers and luxury apparel. Find the full collection online at www.laurencedari.com CN

Autumn choices: SoupCan tech innovation

Tavat Eyewear continues to prove that ingenious tech innovation is a lasting, winning trait in eyewear. Their SoupCan concept, launched in 2015 (at the Mido eyewear fair, Milan) and inspired by 1930s goggles, continues to achieve an ideal balance in the benefits of the “sandwich” style technical construction with rimlock closure. It also offers a completely different finish and feel to the design which is comfortable, durable and fresh in style.

An Eyestylist ‘pick’ / tech innovation: Hexad – in striped Havana

Launched in 2019, the Hexad in the Soupcan collection is offered in a range of colours suited to all tastes. They include classic matt black, bond blue horn and champagne, all beautiful and unique for the new season.

The frames are made in Italy and feature a long list of tech details from tiny watch-crown screws to comfy hypoallergenic nosepads; the metal temples are laser etched for a decorative touch and some styles benefit from ultra scratched hand finished surfaces which provide a tactile feel to the material and a subtle texture. Tavat’s frames in the SoupCan collection are the expression of a rare and innovative approach to functionality and style in product design and the refreshing aesthetic is ideally suited to those who seek something different beyond the ordinary designer frame. See more colours in the SoupCan collection at https://tavat-eyewear.com/eng/prodotto/hexad-sc041-ov / https://tavat-eyewear.com For more about Tavat click on the link: https://www.eyestylist.com/2018/10/tavat-eyewear-pantos-18k-gold/ CN

Trends: Super square

Big is definitely beautiful when it comes to square frames. This shape has re-emerged in 2019 with bold retro-inspired depth and bulkiness – or a minimalist airiness – in a choice of ingeneous colorations, that beg to be worn as modern statement pieces.

Above: Essedue model Ecstasy in grey from the Italian label’s Prima collection, a handfinished line produced in a family factory in Irpinia near Naples. Prima sunglasses by Essedue are available direct from the Essedue website at www.esseduesunglasses.com

Fuz by Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses

Frames with a classic retro flair are an easy bet for all-year-round styling, and the square designs are already being hyped for SS2020. Model Fuz from Oliver Goldsmith is one that has inspired many other sunglass designs. First created in London in 1966, the frame is still constructed with bold bevelled edges and paddle temples – and comes in lots of new colorways including black leopard (above) and black cherry. www.olivergoldsmith.com

Percy from the Centena Collection by Kirk and Kirk

The UK label Kirk & Kirk always delivers a classic shape with a unique twist. The Percy is one of their acrylic optical styles in the Centena collection, providing a magnificently bold silhouette with the flash of transparent colour that lights up the face. www.kirkandkirk.com

Finest Seven Zero 09 in Burnt Champagne

In contrast, Finest Seven brings on the square with a special super fine structure. Their oversized Zero 09 has a large squareish lens with a neat double bridge. The frame is made of stainless steel wire and fitted with 100% UV 400 high quality Italian lenses. For more details visit www.finestseven.com CN

Neo mint: Opal sunglasses by Lowercase

If you’ve never before tried pastel tones, the coming season is a good time to explore their beauty. In eyewear, transparent crystal, with just a dash of colour, has become an ideal companion for contemporary apparel, with soft pink, mint, blue or grey (on-trend now) infused in the acetate with subtlety and  modern appeal.

In tune with the mood, independent brand Lowercase has unveiled a set of modern tones in their made-in NYC collection, where mint green – a gorgeous hue in sync with the neo-mint palette – and tones like saffron are ideal choices for now – and months ahead.

Opal sunglasses by Lowercase

Designed in collaboration with California based swimwear label NU SWIM, the Opal sunglasses (pictured in mint green) feature a soft oval shape and elegantly slim arms. For protection, the frame is fitted with Carl Zeiss CR-39 sun lenses with optional polarization and -100% UVA/UVB protection. Launched this month, the frame is available for pre-order in mint (as well as canary yellow, red or honey) direct from the Lowercase site by visiting https://lowercasenyc.com/products/opal?variant=12309584216144 CN – for more on colour and new trends click on the link: https://www.eyestylist.com/2019/07/kensington-goes-california-the-eye-est-london/

Yi Wen Lim: Soft Power Mono-glass

The Mono-glass is part of RCA fashion graduate Yi Wen Lim’s SOFT POWER project (RCA 2019). SOFT POWER celebrates women at work and represents a new image of power and femininity.

RCA Fashion (Womenswear) graduate Yi Wen Lim has produced a stunning, wearable Mono-glass as part of a finals project entitled SOFT POWER.  The jewellery collection was designed in collaboration with Yi Wen Lim’s close jeweller friend Agatha (Instagram: @raccoonandbabiesofficial), and explores re-appropriating jewellery in the formal workplace. Above: Model Mercedes von Thun-Hohenstein wears Yi Wen Lim’s design 
Mono-glass worn by Mercedes von Thun-Hohenstein

Highlights in the collection include the merging of power pearls with everyday work accessories, stationery and tech wearables – these pieces include a biro pen cap ear cuff, Airpods pearl necklace, ID Badge necklace and the Mono-glass with Hair-clip.

Mono-glass by Yi Wen Lim
“The Mono-glass is inspired by work glasses that women wear, sometimes as a means to establish their intelligence and competence,” says the designer. “It is also inspired by tech accessories like the Google Glass, which perhaps can one day be integrated into more ‘aestheticised’ designs like the SOFT POWER Mono-glass,” she explains.
Mono-glass by Yi Wen Lim
Yi Wen Lim’s friend/muse Mercedes von Thun-Hohenstien (www.mercedesvonthun.com) wore the monocle design at the RCA finals presentation in London in June – and immediately caught our eye. “I found her through Instagram @mvthun21,” said Yi Wen Lim. “She is a mature model, and has been very generous with her time and support for me. She has modelled for my presentations and for video and photoshoots. We have become close over the past few months, and we are now great friends.” For more information about Yi Wen Lim’s work visit her page on Instagram – @__wenlim. Other RCA posts on Eyestylist: https://www.eyestylist.com/2016/12/rca-x-100-optical/ CN

Designer eyewear by Zac Posen: Renata

US fashion label Zac Posen has a new selection of optical frames for women, mixing soft, carefully paired colorations and materials such as acetate and metal with the couture designer’s creative expression and precision detailing. The collection includes ophthalmic model Renata, an excellent example of a wearable, feminine cat eye, produced in a classic combo of metal + acetate with the metal layered behind the acetate of the top brow and bridge – as well as at the hinge.

Renata by Zac Posen

Available in classic black (top image), plum tortoise and tortoise (above), this frame is a super all rounder for women who like the style of a cat’s eye with subtle hints of colour and simple paired back detailing – a feature of the collection overall which is carefully linked to Posen’s glamorous fashion pieces and unique signature style. To view more Zac Posen frame styles in this 2019 selection, visit www.kenmarkeyewear.com CN

Design Miami: See A Clean Future

The shift towards eco trends and sustainability is a continuing story in eyewear, with many new examples of eco-friendly innovations, greater sustainable focus in companies or more focused recycling endeavours in product and packaging.

One of the latest to launch is art initiative + e-commerce platform “One. All Every.” who has teamed with RVS Eyewear and Ugo Rondinone to launch See A Clean Future,  a line of colorful sustainable sunglasses, designed to raise awareness of environmental issues and climate change. The collection debuted at Design Miami in Basel Switzerland (the booth was made from wood and earth, pictured above) and is available for a limited period until June 2020.

Sunglasses designed by RVS Eyewear founder Vidal Erkohen

The frames consist of the innovative materials from the Italian Mazzucchelli company using their M49 bio-plastic, which is eco-friendly, recyclable, and biodegradable. The bioplastic is produced from cotton linters and wood fibers, which are purified into a pulp and then transformed into a resin known as M49. (www.mazzucchelli1849.it)

Sunglasses with eco-aware packaging

All metal inlays as well as temple hinges in the sunglasses are made of a recyclable stainless steel. The steel is coated with ion plating which protects the surface and allows the engraving of the frames. Ion plating is a physical vapor deposition process that uses concurrent or periodic bombardment of the substrate with aluminium, which is recyclable and non-toxic to the environment.

The sunglass lenses revert back to the traditional use of glass. According to the project directors, glass lenses are not only more environmentally sustainable but also ensure precision clarity and a refined aesthetic.

Packaging by Swiss artist Ugo Rondinone

Artist Ugo Rondinone’s designs are applied to the case and box containers, which are made from recycled cardboard and eco-friendly paper, made in London. Additionally, exhibition and furniture design at Design Miami consist of non-toxic and bio materials. The project supports the work of the Jane Goodall Institute, the Green Belt Movement and the E.O. Wilson Biodiversity Foundation. For more information: www.oneallevery.com CN

Bocca 20s1 by FACE A FACE

Sculptural pieces such as those in the Bocca collection are rare and intriguing. The frame named Bocca 20s1 is part of the 2019 collection by Creative Director Pascal Jaulent, a line that is delicate, colourful and always whimsical, with temples wearing miniature shoes of many cute varieties.

“Sometimes a detail is nearly invisible when transparent, while other times it is highlighted when colourful,” explains Jaulent of the  seductive, eye-catchin styling direction. “The manner in which light and colour intertwine is truly captivating.

The 20s1 model is one of the styles in the range inspired – in every precise detail – by the Art Deco movement. A thin highlighted line is visible over the brow, echoed in the coloration of the sculpted ‘shoes’ at the temple ends. For more Bocca styles, in acetate and metal, visit www.faceaface-paris.com CN

Kensington goes California: The Eye Est., London

The two year old Kensington optical boutique The Eye Establishment continues to lead the way in bringing fine eyewear collections to their local community – with an astutely curated selection of brands from around the globe – and the best optical parties in town. Located in a busy street near Earl’s Court, the shop itself stocks frames by L.G.R, Garrett Leight, Celine, DITA and Japanese label Eyevan 7285, among others. They have a beautiful selection of chains by Frame Chain, the trendsetting British accessories brand who have turned the eyewear chain into a must-have fashion staple.  Photography by Cesare Riccardi for Eyestylist.com. All rights reserved.

Sunglass trends: crystal colorations for summer (Photography by Cesare Riccardi)

Last week’s party brought together guests and regular customers for a full showing of the Garrett Leight Collection (GLCO) for Spring/Summer. The LA-based brand has sparked particular attention this season thanks to appearances by Leonardo DiCaprio and Brad Pitt at Cannes in their sunnies (Beach Sun and Calabar Sun) for the premiere of Quentin Tarantino’s Once Upon a Time…In Hollywood.

The Eye Est / eyewear: Garrett Leight Jacqueline Sun (Photography: Cesare Riccardi)

Unisex designs with a square shape and graduated lenses, cat eye silhouettes and quirky multi-sided shapes like the Jacqueline Sun (pictured above) were a big hit with guests. The crystal acetate sunnies are also doing well for the summer, particularly when paired with colorful lens tones of pink, blue or berry. Vintage touches lend a touch of old-school design, which everyone seems to love, with features like a defined keyhole bridge adding style and a comfortable fit.

Square shapes are a hit this summer (Photography by Cesare Riccardi)

The Eye Est. is run by Nadeem Rob and his wife, Fahmida Kamal. For more details about testing at the Eye Est. and to purchase frames online visit: www.eye-est.com. California party design exclusively for The Eye Est. by the Event Builders @theeventbuilders. Eyestylist.com thanks the Eye Est. for a warm welcome at their summer event. CN

Kate Moss, 1992 sunglasses: new collaboration

The Iconic Series-4001 In Collaboration With Stephanie Pfriender Stylander – featuring Kate Moss

Christian Roth’s reissue of Series-4001, the dramatic, otherworldly eyewear silhouette that defined the look of a decade as featured by Kate Moss in 1992 comes as no surprise.

Interest in the Series-4001 soared with the publication of “The Untamed Eye,” a fashion monograph released by photographer Stephanie Pfriender Stylander in September last year. The book’s cover features a black and white photograph of Moss, then 17, and a relatively unknown talent; she is lifting the Series-4001 sunglasses over her eyes to reveal a gaze that has since graced an unprecedented number of magazine covers and fashion campaigns.

“Kate, during her early years, had an innate magic mix of vulnerability, curiousness and determination,” Pfriender Stylander recalls. “When I shot these pictures, we were at the beginning of our careers. We were young and unknown, and the story plays homage to that — romanticizing this period of youthful innocence.” The story, commissioned by Harper’s Bazaar Uomo, was one of Moss’s first fashion editorials, and quickly set the tone for the gritty, restless style that became synonymous with the early 1990s.

1992: Kate Moss photographed by Stephanie Pfriender Stylander – wearing CR Series 4001 sunglasses in black

The successful launch of “The Untamed Eye” inspired Christian Roth and business partner, Eric Domege, to collaborate with Pfriender Stylander on a reissue of the style from the cover. “Stephanie’s photographs are nearly three decades old, but the ideas and emotions they capture — young love, rebellion, curiosity — are timeless,” Roth explains. “After speaking about her work and its significance to our label’s heritage, it was clear that the time had arrived to share a piece of our history with a new generation.”

Launched last month, the sunglasses are now available through DITA worldwide. Photographs by kind permission of Christian Roth. All Rights Reserved. Available online at https://christianroth.com/en-us/archive-1993/?id=1756#174=1754&175=1354 CN

Independent newcomers: Poente, Portugal

It’s not on the scene quite yet in a big way outside Portugal, but the young 26 year old designer of Poente Eyewear, who represents the 4th generation in a family of eyewear producers is taking care to develop his label in line with an artisan family tradition. “I’m 26 years old,” says Bernardo Romão. “I was born and raised in Lisbon. I’m a designer and the owner of the emerging label.”
Poente Eyewear: an emerging brand from Portugal
Poente, meaning sunset in Portuguese, is inspired by a fresh and youthful aesthetic and lifestyle. The products are handmade in Portugal, using high quality Mazzuchelli acetate with Carl Zeiss Vision lenses.
“We are working with dynamic people…designers, artists, street artists, filmmakers, photographers and writers. Our collection has a strong feeling of classic eyewear design, with a modern, forward-looking approach to presentation and style. We already have some special stockists including Optica do Sacramento (Lisbon), M Oculista (Lisbon) and Optical Boutique (Porto).” The focus is now on expanding further afield.
Poente Eyewear produces handmade acetate optical frames and sunglasses, made exclusively in Portugal in line with traditional production techniques and family traditions. Find out more about Poente Eyewear at www.poente.pt CN

Vision Studio, Melbourne

Studio Edwards designs flagship store for Vision Studio, Melbourne, Australia

A gallery-like space invites visitors to engage with and discover the Vision Studio store, located in Melbourne, Australia. Studio Edwards designed the concept with an aluminium perforated facade that hinges open to reveal a luxurious interior displaying eyewear by brands such as Dior, Dita, Mykita, LINDBERG and Thom Browne. The displays on the inside give space to 200 pairs of glasses set on shelving with storage for a further 800 pairs of glasses.

Interior displays are carefully choreographed
The space has an angular plan configuration with the areas requiring most privacy to the rear and semi private consulting spaces tapering to the front.
The side walls are lined with translucent display shelving which appears to float above the pastel coloured cabinets – visually connecting to the mall outside through gaps to each side of the aluminium facade.
Interior: translucent display shelving, pastel cabinets and New York marble
The materials have been cleverly juxtaposed – brash New York marble is set off against the sheer pastel matt surfaces while translucent solid surfaces sit next to raw concrete and slithers of raw aluminium.
According to the designers, the store has been conceived as a physical extension of the Vision Studio brand. They worked closely with the client and graphic designer Louie Quilao to create and refine the final design. For more information: www.visionstudio.com.au / www.studio-edwards.com CN – Photography by Tony Gorsevski

The Contemporary Indigenous

Solo Show by Athena Anastasiou, London

At the Royal Opera Arcade Gallery in London this week, a new exhibition by Athena Anastasiou offers personal insights into the true face of South America, exploring how indigenous culture and global diversity has influenced the people of today. Through interviews and portraits of many nationalities along the journey, she culminates her own visual interpretation, uniting contemporary people with their native indigenous history.

Above: The artist pictured with ‘Bringing the Past to New Horizons – Oil Wool and Acrylic Yarn on Linen’

The Heart of Cuba Oil on Circular Birch Plywood 2019

In a journey of discovery, she found vibrant people and societies far richer, more diverse, energetic and eclectic spectrum of influence than she ever imagined.

The Modern Muisca (2019)

The portraits in this series offer a vibrant expression of colour, pattern, form and texture with bold use of interwoven fabric and multicolored yarns, referencing the artisan crafts and traditions of the Latin American cultures which live on today. www.roa-galleria.com / www.athenaanastasiou.com

The Royal Opera Arcade Gallery, 1-2 Royal Opera Arcade, Pall Mall, London (until 18th May 2019).

Optik Studio, Luxembourg

An eyewear store with the feel of a creative gallery, Optik Studio is located in Luxembourg city. An exclusive stockist in the country for 90% of the brands it carries, their goal is to make people discover how beautiful designer eyewear can be. “We’ve tried to do something different,” explains Maxime Drouna. “Our brands come from all over the world…France, Italy, Japan, Germany, Spain… and each of them has its own universe: you won’t see the same frame in two different collections; we are conscious that we must cover every trend.”

At present the mix includes Pugnale Eyewear, La Petite Lunette Rouge, L.G.R Sunglasses, Meg Eyewear, Mr Lenoir, and Masunaga. “There are a few more that we shall be launching shortly,” says Drouna who is passionate about original design.

In keeping with the collections, the interior of this store is elegant, understated and comfortable. “We have two little spaces where we can welcome our clients with a cup of coffee. It’s then our priority to find the right pair of glasses for every face. We don’t have large tables or dazzling lights. Instead when you visit, we would like you to feel at home.” Optik Studio is also offering a successful service for home and office appointments. For further details find the shop on Instagram @optikstudio.lu. 20 Rue Beaumont, 1219 Luxembourg – CN

Shopping in London: 4 new stores

London’s choice of eyewear and independent design brands is rising quickly. Several new optical stores have opened across the city in the last few months. New mono brand stores and exclusive independent boutiques are changing the face of optics in a city where consumers are more informed and interested in eyewear fashion and good design.

1. Chakshu London

The new boutique style practice Chakshu is located in Camden. The store has been created by a team of optometrists who have also launched their own eponymous house brand  in premium Italian acetate. Their additional brands, meticulously chosen to suit a variety of styles, offer the latest designs. They include Lunor, SALT. Optics, and from Paris, FACEAFACE.

Chakshu London Opticians has been created as an independent practice “where you will receive a highly professional service from a knowledgeable and experienced team.” The eye examinations are conducted using state-of-the-art equipment, including an OCT 3D retinal scanner.

The co-founders have worked in a variety of different optometric settings from smaller independent stores to large retail chains. Combined, they have over 30 years’ optical experience between them. Chakshu London, 97 Parkway, Camden Town, NW1 7PP  https://www.chakshu.co.uk/

2. FourFourFour

Located in Chiswick, West London, FourFourFour opened in March 2019. This is a sister store to Barnes Nineteen at 19 Barnes High Street, and it stocks a variety of design labels including Henau, Nine, Silhouette and Garrett Leight. A modern and minimal interior – which moves away from the clinical look of some traditional British optical stores – is becoming the norm in the UK as eyewear is seen as an important fashion consideration. 444 Chiswick High Road, London

3. Izipizi Paris

Izipizi is the latest opening in the Soho/Carnaby Street area in central London. This is the French brand’s second stand-alone store in Europe; the debut store is in the Marais district of Paris. Located in the popular shopping district of Soho, this new corner store displays all of the brand’s adult and children’s collections in a small yet well designed open retail space. www.izipizi.com

4. For Art’s Sake

This is another stand-alone retail store, located in central Covent Garden in the busy covered market.  The store borrows bold design details from the brand’s penchant for eclectic style: decadent blue velvet furnishings and brass fixtures have been designed to “elevate the statement-making frames”. Many new retail features have been incorporated, from a selfie station to personal shopping (in five languages: Mandarin, French, Spanish, Italian and English), a concierge option, tax-free shopping, “Click and Collect” as well as exclusive colour choices for some of the frame designs. For Art’s Sake is designed by Xiwen Zhang who is featured on 2019’s Forbes 30 Under 30 list. www.fasforartssake.com CN

Fleye Copenhagen: Spring twist

Expressive colour pairings, delicate floral-inspired patterns and carefully proportioned reduced silhouettes. The new designs in the S/S 19 sunglasses collection by Fleye Copenhagen is the result of a creative process that highlights an appreciation for Scandinavian culture and Flora Danica – an iconic collection of plants from the 18th century. The design team created their own floral portraits using flowers, trees and shrubs often seen in Danish gardens – and the results offered a wealth of exciting and “powerful” tonal combinations and special engravings that make these artisan sunglasses a highlight for Spring/Summer.

Above: Model Melanie Baird wears Fleye’s cateye model Utopia – in deep brown with a shiny pink inner rim from the Signature Collection. Photography by Gennaro D’Elia exclusively for Eyestylist.com at Bageriet, Nordic Bakery & Cafe, Covent Garden. www.bageriet.co.uk

Utopia by Fleye Copenhagen in Matte Rose Gold with Shiny Powder Green

These comfortable lightweight frames –  in mixes of titanium, beta-titanium and/or acetate – feature delicately tinted polarized lenses which provide 100% UV protection.

Cosmos by Fleye Copenhagen combines Matt Gold and Shiny Gold

Fleye Copenhagen sunglasses have arrived in London for Spring. Visit Spex in the City in Covent Garden to see the new frames.  www.spexinthecity.com / To find further stockists in Europe visit www.fleye.dk CN

Colour inspiration + design at Palermouno

Milan Design Week 2019: Palermouno renewed – concept studio focuses on chromatic research and international design

PalermoUno, the studio of Sophie Wannenes inaugaurated last November, has been filled with shapes and new artworks for Milan Design Week 2019. The exhibition – which includes limited editions and unique products have one common thread – colour that redefines spaces, choreographies, which completely change the look of the environment – give a new image to all eight rooms in the studio. The exhibition will continue through until July.

The space located in Brera confirms an original concept: each room keeps its functional connotation, revealing the desire to create a place that is in constant evolution. The product is part of the space, as well as an invitation to “please touch and bring me with you”. Attention is paid to the selection of furnishings made for PalermoUno in the customization of the shapes and in the colours and their gradients.

From 9 April the new exhibition, which will remain on display until 15 July 2019, will be accompanied by the launch of the ecommerce site Palermouno.it where it is possible to buy the objects and furnishing accessories present in the different spaces. For further details visit: www.palermouno.itImages: Andrea Pedretti CN

Mykita, NYC – Broome Street, Soho

German design label Mykita has moved its New York store to 458 Broome Street into the heart of the fashionable Soho neighbourhood of the city. After five years on Crosby Street, the new two-floor space comprises a large area of 1590 square feet where the full collection is now presented alongside a state-of-the-art lab and workshop.

The company says it is the first shop to allow a full view into the optical lab and workshop showing the combination of handcrafting and high-tech that defines what the company refers to as “Modern Manufactory”. It also means the shop can offer a comprehensive optical service including in-house lens cutting, glazing, adjustments and repairs.

New store in Broome Street – featuring a state-of-the-art optical lab and workshop

Mykita currently has a large and growing number of shops around the world, with further openings already slated for 2019 and a new store just opened in Carrer de Valencia, Barcelona. www.mykita.com CN