Isabelle Lunettes Nantes, interior design by Decodheure: redesigned in 2017, the new store explores colour and minimal open spaces to highlight exclusive individual eyewear collections.
“I first opened my shop in 2008, in a collaboration with the network Rien Ne Va Plus,” explains Isabelle, the owner of Isabelle Lunettes in Nantes, one of the most beautiful optical stores we have seen in Europe in recent months.
“The shop was originally, “Le Petit Salon des Créateurs.” In 2017, I decided to leave the group and became completely independent. At that time I got in touch with friends who owned an agency in Nantes called Idile Edito and I started the year with a total redesign of our visual image and graphics. We changed the name, the logo, and the graphics completely. And then I realised it was also the right time to change the interior.”
By the end of the year, Isabelle had completely transformed the store with a new striking interior. “It was natural to choose Decodheure (www.decodheure.com). Sandie and Pierre-Edouard were introduced to me by my communications agency Idile Edito who have worked with each other on many different projects. When we met, we were completely in tune with the vision and design and I was able to put all my trust in their work. The project was completely focused on DESIGN – GRAPHICS – and COLOUR….”
“I am completely in love with the new store, I feel completely at home here. The interior design corresponds completely to my vision of creative eyewear: chic, modern, and very colourful”, Isabelle told Eyestylist.
Featured brands: Cutler & Gross / Dita / Thom Browne / Struktur / l.a. eyeworks / Coblens / Kuboraum / Kaleos Eyehunters / Blake Kuwahara / Clément Lunetier / Robert La Roche. Address: 24 Rue de Strasbourg, 44000 Nantes, France – www.isabellelunettes.fr Interior design by https://decodheure.comCN
Copenhagen Fashion Week is underway, and as always, the Danish brand Ørgreen has something special to show. Its new 3d printed collection with Yuniku is presented in a spectacular design window by GamFratesi at the flagship store in Store Regnegade 1, a street that boasts some of the city’s most fashionable shopping destinations.
Drawing attention to the exclusive customised collection which currently has 12 models in six colours, the GamFratesi installation takes inspiration from Pablo Picasso’s diverse and eclectic approach to portraiture, never rendering one face in the same way. The accentuated quirks of Picasso’s portraits—evident in the portrayal of his muses Dora Maar, Olga Khokhlova, and his daughter, May—work to celebrate the diversity amongst people: their unique shape, size, and spirit.
The partnership between Ørgreen and Yuniku is an extension of Ørgreen’s desire to provide diverse product range choices for a wider spectrum of consumers, always with respect to a Nordic aesthetic, and with an eye for the newest technological innovation.
Meaning “unique” in Japanese, Yuniku celebrates the uniqueness of the human face with a special scanner that measures facial features. By taking the lifestyle of the consumer into account, lenses are individually designed while the frame is 3D printed around the individual’s visual needs, all in all matching vision, face and personal styling. More details at www.orgreenoptics.comCN
London’s fair at ExCel, 100% Optical, presented an array of new looks in eyewear, from designers and companies across the international frame and sunglasses business. The UK demand for individual glasses is growing, and astute independent opticians have realised the gains in searching for the less easy to find labels, offering creative shapes, innovative, technical frames and beautiful eyewear materials and colours. Above: TAVAT Tactile: from Italy, an evolution in its timeless collection of fine acetate and metal/acetate combination designs. www.tavateyewear.com
Highlighted at the fair, Silhouette’s extensive launches for 2018 include a collaboration with Perret Schaad, representing a new re-craft of Silhouette’s iconic Titan Minimal Art frame for Spring/Summer 2018.
Johanna Perret and Tutia Schaad, the pair behind the label, are best known for sleek, minimalist designs. For Silhouette, the resulting frame takes the form of a unique modified hexagon shape – with cutout on the outer side of each lens -which embodies influences of architecture and geometric styling. Despite the dramatic angles, the design personifies the designers’ passion for minimalism and weightlessness. www.silhouette.com
The colour palette for 2018 encourages bold, exciting statements and 100% helped to highlight the very latest hues. Along with an array of new neutrals, we were impressed by the prevalence of the colour purple, which, with many other pastel tones from pale pink to baby blue and pistachio, is making a huge impression for the coming season. Fresh colour combinations were particularly lively at the independent labels we visited and tone-on-tone effects where lenses match the frame, were fresh and sophisticated. Above: Andy Wolf’s sunglass model Austin, in lilac. The lens tone blends with the frame hue: www.andy-wolf.com
Protective, stylish cases are an important element in eyewear and the array of styles has become more creative and luxurious. Butti Eyewear Cases, a new British label, produces a refined slip case design with a hard protective layer and a silk lining, perfectly suited to modern tastes. A small leather tab releases the glasses! Made in the UK, the brightly coloured cases are produced in Italian leather with a smart lustrous finish. Butti made their first appearance at the 100% fair: find details at www.butti.co.uk
This year, 100%’s excellent “Celebration of Vision” competition for RCA students offered a fascinating insight into the creative talent of the future in the UK. Two winners were announced this weekend: well done to Julia Hauss, (Womenswear –Fashion, Year 1), who designed frames based on children’s birthdays and the joy they bring, and Ely Cao, (Womenswear – Accessories, Year 1), who proposed “a gift from the crazy optician” – a box containing 94 imaginative multi-coloured modular eyewear pieces, “full of possibilities”.
Parisian eyewear designer Alain Mikli and haute couture designer Alexandre Vauthier have today shown an edition of avant-garde eyewear captured through the lens of Mert & Marcus on British fashion icon, Kate Moss. Above: Moss wears model Roselyne
The collaboration includes four styles: Edwidge, Edwidge jeweled, Roselyne, and Nadége that appeared on the runway at the Alexandre Vauthier Haute Couture show today at Paris Couture week, with much comment.
Since the launch of his Haute Couture range in 2009, Vauthier’s luxurious and futuristic fabrics, Parisian savoir-faire and vision of the female body have ensured his creations have seduced clients around the world. CN
Photography credit: Kate Moss wears the Alain Mikli x Alexandre Vauthier Edwidge jeweled and the Roselyne in Noir Mikli with Swarovski Crystals and Grey lenses.
London’s 100% Optical takes place on 27th to 29th January, and promises an exciting event, celebrating 5 years of success at the city’s ExCel centre. Many different types of eyewear will be showcased during the weekend, with companies travelling from far and wide.
The Austrian company SILHOUETTE will launch the new Alpha Collection to UK opticians, a new addition expanding the Titan Minimal Art range. The Collection introduces a number of distinguished technical highlights, focusing on an architecturally modern design. A striking nose bridge and an updated metallic temple aesthetic, with the choice of a polished or matte finish, combined with a delicate decorative element are also highlighted. New to the range, inspired by recent SS18 trends, is the luxurious brass and rose gold metal surface. www.silhouette.com
LINDBERG’s presence in the UK continues to go from strength to strength and the Danish company will showcase highlights from across its collections for 2018. Watch out for their Sirius Titanium which won the Red Dot Award in 2017. More details at www.lindberg.com
The ‘Be Hot’ shapes in the WOOW Wool collection have light metal fronts and beautiful matching “Argyll” socks on the temples. Be Hot comes in 2 shapes and 6 colour combinations, and celebrates five years of the Woow Eyewear brand. BeHot1 is typically colourful and upbeat in a line that brings a youthful energy to eyewear! Woow is part of Design Eyewear Group and can be found at their stand at 100%. www.wooweyewear.com
Gotti Switzerland offers a diverse collection of smart, minimal eyewear including 3d printed luxury styles (DIMENSION), a lightweight trendy rimless collection (Perspective) and design classics in titanium and buffalo horn. The new DIMENSION frames offer the ultimate in personalised 3d printed eyewear – with a touch of bold colour! www.gotti.ch
EYESHAKER, an Austrian company who first launched their cleaning product in 2017, will also exhibit in London for the first time. This product is a brilliantly simple way to thoroughly clean away dust, makeup, sweat or finger prints, and keeps frames and lenses looking smart and stylish. A must-have for the optical practice. Try the product out at the Eyeshaker booth or visit www.eyeshaker.at
The Soul Collection by Andy Wolf offers classic design with trend-led nuances of colour and design. Model Amira is the ultimate round style with a unique narrow metal bridge and bold canary yellow colour choice. Find more classic tones and brights in the Soul Collection at 100% and on www.andy-wolf.com
100% Optical will showcase a range of independent labels in 2018 including the following brands: Andy Wolf, Booth & Bruce, Cazal, Dandy’s, Eyeshaker, Francis Klein, Gotti Switzerland, Kirk & Kirk, Neubau, Savile Row, MODO, Markus T, Tavat and Silhouette. For more information visit www.100percentoptical.comCN
Eye Q boutique owner Alicia Hartman has introduced us to her first eyewear collection, developed in Barbados in a design collaboration with the celebrity sunglass designer Eric Jean. Launched on the beach in December, the new limited edition – Peoples from Barbados – “PFB” is a celebration of the island’s rich culture and people, with styling that encapsulates style, Caribbean adventure, joie de vivre and “Bajan soul”. The launch coincides with the 50th Anniversary of the island’s independence.
Alicia met designer Eric Jean last April.”It was the beginning of a journey that turned a dream into a reality,” she told Eyestylist. “We started to work on a capsule collection of sunglasses for men and women, a unique concept of glasses that captures everything that Barbados represents for me.”
The collection features made in Japan temple printing reflecting the excellence of the overall quality of production. High end acetates combine with pure stainless steel temples and special features such as a unique screwless flat stainless steel hinge and subtle bespoke gradient mirrors. Signature end tips come in colours which match the fronts. Unique lamination techniques and Japanese polishing produce glossy to subtle matt finishes that give a luxury fit and feel.
EYE Q stocks niche and independent eyewear brands with a focus on craftsmanship and style, and will now add the PFB line, designed in Barbados.
Korea’s youngest eyewear brands are turning heads. One of the most popular rising names is the stainless steel specialist Stealer from Seoul, a brand that already has an impressive following at home, among them Korean influencers – such as actors Kim Moo Yul and Lee Hanee, who wear their frames on and off camera. The designs themselves are already in some of the finest boutiques in the South Korean capital (https://www.eyestylist.com/2017/06/haute-eye-seoul/). Opened in 2015, their retail HQ is in trendy Sinsa-Dong, Seoul. Lightweight and minimal in thickness and style, the collection plays with thin steel and fine steel wire to create interesting volumes with an industrial yet refined feel.
“As a brand we aim to re-interpret the material with an in-depth and unconstrained point of view….” Stealer Eyewear
Following launches in Europe at Silmo (www.silmoparis.com), the Paris trade fair for optics and eyewear, the Stealer collection is now available in a select number of European opticians and fashion stores including La Vue Parisienne (Paris), Optics Angelos (Athens), Mert Optik (Turkey) and Joseph Haver (Tel Aviv) and continues to grow its European following with a street fashion project in Milan, highlighted on Instagram. Stealer Eyewear will exhibit at MIDO 2018 (Milan). Find out more: www.stealereyewear.comCN
Light-adaptive lenses have taken a new stylish direction thanks to Transitions Optical, who continue to innovate in this specialist area.
The Fashion Chrome collection – just launched ready for SS18 – has a striking mirrored effect combined with Transitions’ XTRActive lens technology – which protects the eyes from the brightest sun and harsh artificial light. It also allows the lenses to darken behind the windscreen of a car.
The lenses have an adaptive tint that reacts to UV and visible light, intensifying when the wearer moves outside. When indoors, the lens has a chic light mirrored tint, which turns into a full mirrored sunglass outdoors, allowing the wearer to have the right tint at the right time. Available in six fashion-forward colour options from Red Sunrise to Sea Green, the new Fashion Chrome lenses provide a tonal range that is striking, unique and fresh – representing an outstanding new opportunity to complement stylish designer eyewear.
Transitions Optical was founded in 1990. In 1991, it became the first company to commercialize and manufacture plastic photochromic lenses.
Antique expert Catherine Southon is including a pair of Sir Winston Churchill’s tortoiseshell spectacles made by his opticians C. W. Dixey & Sons in a Christmas auction on Wednesday, 6th December 2017. The auction will be held at Farleigh Golf Club, near Croydon, UK, not far from Churchill’s Kent residence, and the spectacles are estimated to sell for up to £2,000.
The full rimmed round glasses with white dot to tip of each arm, contained within a leather spectacle case embossed C.W.Dixey & Son London 1777, together with a typed statement from Director of C. W. Dixey Mr P. Varnes verifying that the spectacles were made for Winston Churchill and claiming ‘usually three pairs of spectacles were made to Churchill’s prescription and kept at the Cavendish Square showroom later the Wigmore Street practice. After Churchill’s death C.W. Dixey had three pairs of Churchill’s spectacles still in their possession. It is believed one pair were given to Chartwell, one pair auctioned in 2011 and this is the final pair.
The spectacles were give to the present owner by Mr P. Varnes Director of Dixey and Sons, as the present owner, also an optician, was developing a new range of spectacles in the style of Churchill and Mr Varnes said he should ‘have the real thing’.
Churchill was very fond of his distinctive eyewear – either half-eye or the fully round style which were tailored for specific purposes and marked accordingly. The metal dots in the corner of the frame indicate its purpose – one dot for reading only and two dots for speeches, but he also had specially made glasses for sketching, painting, or card playing.
The wartime prime minister was often seen wearing the circular tortoiseshell spectacles in his later years. He had several made, so he would always have spares and if there was anything wrong with them, they would then be left with opticians Dixey for repairs.
Catherine said: “We are absolutely delighted to be offering a pair of Winston Churchill’s spectacles, especially as this area is very proud of its Churchill connection. His spectacles are as iconic as his cigar and hat. We expect a lot of interest both here and abroad as Churchill memorabilia is always very collectable.”
Today, the British spectacle makers C W Dixey & Son produce a range of classical designs including a faithful replica of Sir Winston’s legendary circular frames, model Chartwell 01, picture above. More details on the line at http://www.cwdixeyandson.com/range.php
Fine lines and a totally minimal structural aesthetic in eyewear continue to trend for the season ahead. Many design brands have produced their own interpretation of the look, some returning to their archives to delve into the past – and eras where fine wired frames were popular – and others proposing a more futuristic design concept, employing advanced materials which are very strong as well as slim. Architectural influences have naturally had an impact on the styling, as more “open” frame structures and different ideas on volumes and the method of construction become significant.
neubau eyewear, the young Austrian brand at Silhouette Eyewear, the Austrian experts in minimalist eyewear design, propose a completely new line in their collection which highlights 4 designs in stainless steel – conceived to combine a forward-looking, yet timeless look and a comfortable fit, achieved through adjustable nose pads and temples and a choice of two sizes. Above: neubau eyewear has launched four styles in The Wire Collection, made from stainless steel.
Manu by neubau is part of the Wire Collection. With its classic round shape and double bridge, the style cleverly plays on current styles and is perfectly fitting for a young audience who are increasingly seeking out the minimal designs. Available in graphite matte, eclectic silver, eclectic silver/black and glorious gold. www.neubau-eyewear.com
From theo, and for those with an eye on a creative lightweight design, the new Noodles serve up minimalism with quirky original details inspired by the Japanese dish and its many varieties: Ramen, Soba, Udon etc.
The lenses are held in place by “sticks” likened to chopsticks and colours vary from neon to more subdued greys and blues – there are 20 colour choices in total. The frames are made of strong, flexible stainless steel, are chemically etched, and feature corners that are laser-cut for an extra delicate effect. Find out more: www.theo.be
Rigards, renowned for its artisan designs in buffalo horn, has created a new take on the oversized aviator in .925 sterling silver. The curves on the frames are meant to create an illusion that it’s always in motion. The delicacy of the bridge design points to a minimal refinement in designer Ti Kwa’s artisan work in silver for the new season. www.rigards.com
Rimless styling has returned to the catwalks, and the new collections with this look represent, in some cases, exceptional steps in technological excellence. Gotti Switzerland’s Perspective Collection offers the ultimate minimal frameless concept, with a new proposal in the construction which is free from screws, glue and soldering. The connecting piece between the stainless steel and the lens itself is manufactured for a seamless aesthetic using 3d printing. More details on Gotti Perspective at www.gotti.chCN
Eyestylist Preview 2018 ….. SIENS EYE CODE in Milan has announced the official launch for 2018 of their brilliant Light Transmutation project which we have recently experienced. The project explores chromotherapy via sunglasses designed to expand and transform the wearer’s vision through “coloured” light. The seven colours are those of the 7 chakras, each offering different therapeutic benefits corresponding to different parts of the body – red, for example, activates the circulatory and nervous systems connected to the heart.
In the frame design, the transparent coloured ring surrounds a dark UV protective sun lens; the same colour reappears on the temple in a striking ‘wing’ design which represents the beneficial and therapeutic effects of the lens whilst giving the frame a cool futuristic look.
Chromotherapy, also referred to as colour therapy, is an ancient alternative medicinal method. The Siens team – headed up by designers Roberto and Stefano Russo – are known for their experimental approach to eyewear and a consistent exploration into different materials, technologies, design disciplines and conceptual ideas. This is the latest project in a collection that also offers innovative technical solutions in the form of a patented hinge, lens assembling system and packaging integrated with the glasses in their first series, Creatures (launched in 2016). Find out more about SIENS at the website: www.sienseyecode.com CN
Pairings in eyewear are increasingly complex and, for future seasons, colourful and bright. For the wearer, the mix of colours or materials should flatter and enhance features without overpowering the face – it’s an art of harmony and balance, where the interplay of texture and colour can be subtle and harmonious, or bold and striking.
JF Rey – the French design house – is creative in combination work and their Destruct line clearly illustrates the opportunity to play both with colour, material and volume on the frame. The concept focuses on the cutting of the acetate to uncover the metal below the surface. “The metal unfolds and redraws the aesthetics of the frame, creating a new graphic balance,” explains the designer. Find out more at www.jfrey.fr
Model Viggo – a smart men’s design by Face à Face – combines classic colours of tortoise and bright blue, in a popular mix that is easy on many complexions. In the photo, the frame is fitted with the newly released Transitions lenses, Style Colours, in their bright blue tone – Sapphire – personalising the colour combinations of the design, and enhancing the points in blue on the bridge and temple when at their most intense tone in the sun. A stunning combination! www.faceaface-paris.com / www.stylecolours.co.uk
Colour combinations at the innovative Italian artisan design label RES/REI are often inspired by nature. Magnolia, from the Flowers Collection, is an example of the label’s new custom designed acetates which feature a geometric use of three different colours on the front face – a magical re-interpretation of the petals of exotic flowers. www.resrei.comCN
We were looking for a sunglass style for a 13 year old who loves fashion, who knows about brands, and who is starting to value the comfort and feel of a well-built design frame v. a mass produced one. One or two obvious brands had caught his attention. The choice, however, seemed limited – most of the frames were too large for his face in the adult lines – and focused on the branding more than the frame itself.
The High Pockets – from Original Penguin – is an adult frame, but in size 53 19-140, fits a growing teenager. The lightweight design and clean details – without embellishment, offer the right balance of style, comfort and design, with a retro feel that appeals to a youngster who notices the design. The frame is available in several colours including black (pictured), cargo and gunmetal and is fitted with Polarized Tri-Acetate sunlenses with 100% UV protection.
Original Penguin produces a men’s sunglasses collection – featuring the Highpockets, and a special selection of “youth” frames – ideal for boys with a developing sense of fashion. Find more details at www.kenmarkeyewear.comCN
Our love for eyewear design always leads us to the small yet creatively minded enterprises in the frame business: Sol Sol Ito is an independent label from Zurich, Switzerland, with a unique perspective on design and a fastidious passion for craftsmanship. Each frame style, including the elegant Sol Sol Ito 032BF (above), has signature exchangeable twin-steel arms – created in a huge choice of colours – a design feature which also offers a comfy, custom fit. 032BF, like all the styles by this Swiss label, is a limited edition – just 50 are produced of each one. The fluid curves of the front are reminiscent of details in the art deco design movement and reappear in different ways in several of the designs across the collections.
Available at selected boutique opticians including Fueter & Halder, (Baden), Parici, (Paris) and Bruce Eyewear, (Vancouver) – the award-winning Sol Sol Ito label was created by designer Sandra Kaufmann and artist Monika Fink. Photo credit: Hans Hansen. More details at www.solsolito.com CN
Aviators are a perennial favourite. This year has been a particularly fab one for this shape with it surging much like it did in the 70s and 80s. In particular, the very narrow aviators in metal have been a hit, glazed with prescription lenses, pale coloured tints – yellow in particular – or in-your-face mirrors, take your pick: the colour palette is infinite.
The shape itself can be edgy. Model Praph by Grey Ant takes this line, emphasising the vintage feel of the classic shape – using acetate with a soft graduated colour shading. Contrasting essential details in metal create a special highlight, and are conveniently designed to adjust (as are the nose pads) for a comfortable fit – a huge bonus with an oversized shape. Grey Ant frames are designed by Grant Krajecki, eyewear innovator and member of the CFDA. The brand is based in NYC. www.greyant.comCN
neubau eyewear from Austria has teamed up again with Hien Le, as part of the designer’s S/S 2018 catwalk show in Berlin. The sunglass models, scheduled for release in Autumn, include the new Eugen, Ruben, Carla and Fabio, which seamlessly blend with the designer’s mens’ and womenswear looks on the runway.
Stylish and eco-friendly, neubau sunglasses are made from the plant based material “natural PX”, and boast an acetate look, while being very light and resistant. The material is very pleasant to wear, and the variety of surface finishes are interesting and unique, with matt effects – which are particularly on trend – and ‘linear’ textures coming into the range for Autumn.
Hien Le’s S/S 2018 collection is a homage to dance in general and explores specific synergies between bodies and materials that compliment and support each other in seemingly fragile movements. The classic silhouettes and pleats in fabrics such as light silks, cottons and linen are reminiscent of dance costumes. Nuances of greige, rosé, sky-blue and accents of saffron yellow mirror the subtlety of the body movements. For more details: www.neubau-eyewear.com – www.hien-le.com / CN
Adaptive lenses – also known as photochromics – are entering a brand new era. Whilst fashion has set down rules for us to wear ever brighter coloured frames with colourful lenses, Transitions Optical, the makers of the most famous light-adaptive lenses has launched a new collection of style-driven colours for specs wearers demanding a stylish and sophisticated final product.
Fitted for my review by Kensington’s Eyeworks London (www.eyeworkslondon.com), the new Style Colours lenses in Sapphire are a fashionable match for the black frame colour I had selected, darkening to a point outside in full sunshine where they take on an intense bright blue. The other lens hues in the range – Amber, Emerald and Amethyst – also darken to produce statement tones that will enhance both a matching frame colour or provide a very stylish dramatic contrast.
Worn indoors the experience is that of wearing normal glasses, with a clear, high-quality lens. The tone changes quickly outside providing immediate UV protection with the trendy tinted coloration, chic and comfortable to wear whether gently faded (a popular look for summer) or at their darkest when the glasses transform ‘magically’ into shades.
Style Colours were launched in the UK in May. For more details visit www.stylecolours.co.uk. Pictured above: the new Style Colours lenses in Sapphire fitted in Kirk & Kirk’s model Warren from the Kaleidoscope Collection. www.kirkandkirk.com. CN
Illustrator and photographer Clément Louis is a newcomer to the eyewear scene. In a experimental liaison with the Barcelona brand Alfred Kerbs, the Parisian multidisciplinary artist has defined the complete SS17 series of sunglasses by Kerbs in a powerful portrait collection evocative of the style of Egon Schiele.
Above: Art + eyewear – model Billy by Alfred Kerbs illustrated by Clément Louis. Part of a series for the Barcelona eyewear label.
Model Billy by Alfred Kerbs is new in the acetate collection for SS17. Colour is underlined in fresh combinations and a play on tonal contrasts while the square 70s shape has intellectual overtones. Available in black, coffee (as seen in the illustration, top, and above), striped havana and the very chic tones of “toasty” or “cheetah”. More information about the artist and the new sunglasses at www.alfredkerbs.com CN
Mondelliani glasses, selected independent brands (Hoet and Theo) and bijoux accessories. The curated collections by the Mondello family have a new design home in Via dei Prefetti, an historic street with an abundance of chic stores located in the Campo Marzio neighbourhood.
The minimal interior, balancing bright colour and elegant white displays was designed by Claudia Campone of Studio THiRTYONE in Rome. An area for eye tesing has also been included as part of the project – allowing the team to offer state-of-the-art eycare as well as beautiful accessories.
Following the opening in December 2016, Rosaria Mondello commented: “Eyewear is the accessory that speaks about who we are, more than any other. If you wear black and choose a red frame, for me, you are all about “red”. If you wear a “statement” frame, such as a heavy rimmed black design, you need to be able to carry it off, with grit and a strong character, otherwise you will look like a member of the Beagle Boys. What gives us great satisfaction is finding the right frame for each person: this requires sensitivity, taste and attention to detail”.
Via dei Prefetti 11, Rome. Other stores are located in via del Bergamaschi and via dell’Oca, Rome. www.mondelliani.itCN
Energetic colour and new chic designs with consistent attention to the small details: the mood at Copenhagen Specs this weekend was upbeat and friendly as designers from Scandinavia and further afield brought new ideas for 2017. The fair showed its commitment to independent labels, and attracted more than 80 companies and a wide range of frame styles from Scandinavian innovators through to small start-ups from Italy (Viveur), Poland (Love Belford), Spain (Paper & Paper) and France (Plein Les Mirettes /PLM).
The Italian titanium specialists Blackfin showed their new collection featured in the 2017 campaign: Sky’s The Limit. The brand currently offers an eclectic mix of titanium styles including trend-focused thicker rims such as model Montego Bay (above). Further details: www.blackfin.eu
Plein Les Mirettes showed their colourful acetate range for women for the first time in Denmark. The uniquely crafted glamorous shapes have a bright energetic elegance and are made in Normandy in a prestigious traditional eyewear factory. Model Diva brings the camouflage trend into eyewear in a playful and elegant interpretation for the face. www.plein-les-mirettes.fr.
Italian start-up Viveur Sunglasses by Carlo Opice showed a metal collection produced in the Veneto. The frames revisit vintage styling but bring a modern “street style” to the look, creating a line that is youthful and wearable. Very narrow proportions and the variety of nice classic lens colours in the metal sunglasses line are on trend for the SS17 season. More details at www.viveursunglasses.com
Alongside bright primary colours, neutral eyewear tones are evolving in new ways. Model Nia by Salt. Optics has a thin profiled shape, the narrowest of temples and custom detailing. Nia comes in a super Oyster Grey / Black Sand combination with “Lovers Soul” gradient lenses. More details on the new entries presented by Salt. Optics at www.saltoptics.com
Lightness, technical know-how and an innovative take on materials are instantly noticeable in the Fleye collection, presented to us by co-founder Hanne Andersen at the show. Once again, the trend for extremely narrow proportions is beautifully played out in special ways with the addition of touches of colour and finely textured finishes in high-tech carbon fibre. www.fleye.dk
Copenhagen Specs returns to the same venue in 2018 from 3-4th March: for more details about the fair visitwww.copenhagenspecs.dkCN
Interchangeable eyewear systems are not a new thing and personalisation continues to be a highly desirable characteristic for eyewear enthusiasts. NOG frames by French designer Laurent Albouy – launched at the optical fair Silmo in 2016 – take the interchangeable concept up a notch with a modular system offering smart, contemporary shapes that can be put together by their owner, in a host of different modern design-oriented colour combinations.
The frames are made up of four pieces with two lenses (sun lenses are provided and optical ones can be fitted by your optician), and are completely screwless. The ease of assembly means that the wearer can change the pieces as and when they want. The pieces come in a minimal box and are standardised so that the consumer can order new coloured pieces to add to their “nogs eyewear wardrobe”. Find out more about the nogs start-up company from Lille, France, at www.nogs.frCN
From small first-time exhibitors to highly regarded international designers, the selection of frames at 100% Optical offered an exceptional opportunity to British opticians and international buyers last weekend. New launches by Tavat Eyewear, Gotti Switzerland, Kirk & Kirk, Silhouette, SALT. Optics, MonkeyGlasses and L.G.R, among others, ensured that diverse, fast-paced innovations in eyewear could be fully appreciated.
Tavat Eyewear, from Italy, returns to 100% annually. Pictured above: campaign for Tavat’s forward-thinking SoupCan Collection AW16/17 – a unique “sandwich” frame design with rimrock closing and watch crown mechanism. More details at www.tavat-eyewear.com
neubau eyewear launched several new frames which will be available from April. The designs are created in natural PX, a high quality eco-friendly polymer that is light, flexible and durable. The frames (above, model Valerie) come in delicate natural colours including crystal clear versions and trendy shades of green. www.neubau-eyewear.com
Italian titanium specialists Blackfin, who have just started to make their mark in the UK, showed their innovative new optical and sunglasses collection. Designs such as model Loven by Blackfin show their achievements in decorative work on super light Japanese titanium. www.blackfin.eu
Mouet Eyewear, created in 2014, exhibited for the first time at 100% in London. Carlos Martin and Fran Penalba, a designer and an architect, have developed a range of artisan acetate designs, made in one of the last remaining traditional frame workshops in Spain. www.moueteyewear.com
MonkeyGlasses, one of the notable design-focused eco frame brands, based in Denmark, launched a new eyewear collection with colourful sustainable leather coverings. The eight colours are inspired by the Nordic night sky and include silver or gold coated stainless steel with a natural horn/wood look for spectacle temples. www.monkeyglasses.com
The judging of the excellent RCA x 100% eyewear design competition took place during the fair. Congratulations to Becky K. Hong – the overall winner, and all the shortlisted RCA students whose eyewear projects showed innovation, imagination and a detailed understanding of today’s eyewear trends and new directions. 100% Optical takes place from 27th to 29th January 2018. For further details visitwww.100percentoptical.comCN
The optical fairs are about to get underway, and Eyestylist looks forward to exploring some of the leading European events highlighting independent brands and expertise in artisan collections. Denmark’s Copenhagen Specs, on 4th/5th March 2017, will take place at Lokomotivvaerkstedet just outside the city centre in a warm, welcoming venue with a relaxed atmosphere. A growing number of independent labels from across Europe attend including Danish brands LINDBERG, Falvin, Orgreen Optics, Fleye and Monoqool as well as specialists from further afield. Newcomers this year include Plein Les Mirettes (France), Kaleos (Barcelona) and Yuniku 3D tailored eyewear, by HOYA – produced in collaboration with Materialise and Hoet Design Studio. (www.yuniku.com).
Copenhagen Specs’ Founder/CEO Morten Gammelmark says: “We have expanded the exhibiting area a little so we can show more brands to our visitors. Look forward to a fantastic selection of established and emerging names.”
Newcomers at the Copenhagen event include Retrosuperfuture, the Italian label and their exotic new model Esther, characterised by an oversized round frame with an all-lens construction. www.retrosuperfuture.com
Returning to the show are some notable European artisan collections: Lucas de Stael (www.lucasdestael.com) handcrafted products combining stainless steel with wood, leather and stone, and young sustainable designer brand from Norway, Karmoie, by Kirsten and Lars Iversen who specialise in minimally styled acetate classics. (www.karmoie.com)
For the first time, Copenhagen Specs have created a guided sightseeing tour for visitors to the fair offering a mix of exclusive visits to leading optical shops and cultural sights in the Danish capital. More information about theCopenhagen Specs 2017 (trade visitors only) and brands attending is available at www.copenhagenspecs.dkCN
A tribute to one of the most influential thinkers of the western world, Sigmund by neubau eyewear is a new interpretation of the classical round shape, currently enjoying a significant revival. Inspired by the iconic glasses worn by Sigmund Freud, this version by the young Austrian brand takes a high-tech approach, using a polymer that is super flexible and lightweight. The overall effect is modern and focused on comfort, with temples that are adjustable. The choice of fresh contemporary colours brings a strong character to the design. Bright evergreen (trendsetting this season), sweet honey and clear crystal are among the choices for those seeking a bold new eyewear update for 2017. www.neubau-eyewear.comCN
More extreme proportions lend a dynamic look to eyewear for women as 2017 approaches. The rise of the oversized metal aviator as a “statement” has boosted this direction, and style influencers are continuing to sport the design as the ultimate fashion accessory, whether they require prescription lenses or not. New quality aviator shapes are a staple at many of the small and medium sized independent eyewear labels specialising in metal. One such example, the German independent label Coblens, produces distinctive aviator designs in high grade titanium: pictured above, model 30066 from their Luna Park line. www.coblens.com
In the acetate collections too, a broad offering of more substantial shapes include deeper, generous sized cat eyes and cool retro “geek-chic-revival” designs.
Spectacle Eyeworks have created several new designs in this vein, including the elegant Sierra in the Pussy Galore Collection. In subtle acetate colours, pretty striated versions, the style works the fuller shape with fine lines and the characteristic pointed top corners of the cateye.
Christian Roth, the iconic American “designer” eyewear label, now partnered with Dita, proposes a similar femininity in a large round sixties-inspired design. The designer describes the frame as “a look that is straight out of a beatnik Greenwich Village coffee shop” when fitted with optical lenses. It’s one of several frames in the new line that bridge the old and the new, playing with modern colourways and materials with expertise and know-how. More information on Christian Roth’s new line at www.christianroth.com CN
Intriguing design by a former jewellery designer, Birgitte Falvin’s new collection for 2017 is presented in exceptional imagery with Danish model Anna Edelfors.
The campaign includes the new Skycrystal Shades (part of the Black Crystal Collection for 2017) in lightweight titanium, a bold, luxurious concept that highlights the designer’s ingenious approach to eyewear. The beautiful, minimal titanium frame, pictured (below) with an elegant architectural shape, typical of Birgitte’s unique style, is complemented by lenses which add to the overall aesthetic: clever facet-cut details along the top edge, and, in some designs, cut-outs in the lenses – precision cut using an old-fashioned artisan technique only achievable by hand. The matte black surface is complemented by exquisite detailing in 24-carat gold.
Falvin Eyewear’s choice of luxury materials – including Japanese titanium, diamonds, 24 carat gold and platinum – is very carefully approached. While comfort and ease of wear is well considered, the clean yet paired-back aesthetics and attention to detail are typical of a strong Danish design ethos which has an immediate draw for the wearer.
Colours are harmonious and natural, selected to work seamlessly with clothing and skin tones, for men and women. “The palette is inspired by colours meeting the surface of the Royal Black Diamond Library,” explains the designer, “when the sunlight plays on it, creating special effects.”
The Black Crystal Collection includes 10 different shapes, which can be customised with diamonds and/or sun lenses. A choice of surfaces in rose gold, palladium and 24 carat gold are proposed in combination with a colour palette of black, brown, grey, blue, aubergine, or white. The customised handcrafted diamond setting is made with black, champagne, and white/transparent Wesselton diamonds. For more information, visit www.falvineyewear.comCN
Jen, from the French artisan label Vue dc, is one of the prettiest shapes I have seen for women this season. Not only does it represent a modern take on beautiful classic eyewear by proposing a very feminine version of a multi-sided shape, it also comes in an elegant colour palette, flattering (the red is soft and translucent) but not flashy. For Vue dc fans, this frame will represent an ideal balance of gorgeous artisan design and ease of wear with the narrow acetate frame. The hint of a glamorous gothic mood in the collection is also quite irresistible. All Vue dc frames are designed by Chris Mascré and handmade exclusively in France. CN
At the heart of the fast-paced, fast-expanding frames market, creative innovation is as strong as ever, with independent designers and makers taking new routes that require experimental techniques, new technology and, at times, several years’ research and development. Silmo Paris is an international platform for inspired new design concepts and this year’s show confirmed that leading directions in eyewear revolve around huge opportunities in high-tech alongside a return to artisan principles and impressively high standards in handcrafting.
The Italian label LGR is one of the Italian leaders in small production artisan-quality eyewear. Founder Luca Gnecchi Ruscone (above right in model Scorpio) incorporates attentive details and finishes, noteworthy not only for their refined aesthetics but also for comfort and fit – the mix of classic and directional statement eyewear provides something for everyone who appreciates good design. Look out for their new “hammered” effect finish in the metal range – “it’s a little gothic,” says Gnecchi Ruscone with a smile. Very delicate metal profiles with high bridges connect each lens gracefully. www.lgrworld.com
Gotti Switzerland, a brand that specialises in quality, technical precision and beautiful quality materials, launched their first 3d printed collection: Dimension, at the show last weekend. Sven Gotti told Eyestylist he has been working with his team on this line for around three years with the aim of providing the same levels of detail, finish, comfort and fit in the cutting-edge material that they have mastered in acetate, horn and titanium. Further information at www.gotti.ch
RES/REI’s Oliviero Zanon continues on the artisan path with dedication to design finesse and innovative aesthetic detailing in Mazzucchelli acetate. The new frames with tiny perforated decoration are ingenious and make a wonderful addition to the core collection. www.resrei.com
With metal sunglasses booming in terms of prevalent trends, several directions were quickly identified at the Paris show: very fine profiles, continued attention on the zero base “flat” suns lenses, and all kinds of ideas for double bridges and lens shapes. The Vera Wang collection from Kenmark is a luxury capsule line that embodies these particular details with subtlety and flair. www.verawang.com / www.kenmarkoptical.com
Named after American actors – including Woody, Quentin, and Scarlet – the sunglasses in the Rigadritto collection are a first delightful step for the Rome-based brand Mondelliani towards an all metal construction. The frames are very light, easy to wear, and minimal in a design that speaks volumes on the face. www.mondelliani.it
Finally, collections using natural materials continue to expand with speed. The Silmo show had several highlights: Monoceros frames in buffalo horn, made from a single piece of horn, free from metal and plastic (www.monoceros.cc), Rigards’ buffalo horn creations by Ti Kwa, incorporating brilliant material mixes and exceptional textures, polished surfaces and coordinating colours – (www.rigards.com), and a new luxury eyewear collection in marble from the Italian Marble Inlay experts Budri, designed by Valerio Cometti in collaboration with Gianmarco Budri and a team of craftsmen. The collection has taken two years to come to fruition and includes marble, onyx and semi-precious stones. www.budri.com
Eyestylist looks forward to sharing further highlights, details and observations on the new collections in the months ahead.
Silmo Paris takes place from 6-9th October in 2017. For more details on the Silmo fair visit www.silmoparis.comCN