The Iconic Series-4001 In Collaboration With Stephanie Pfriender Stylander – featuring Kate Moss
Christian Roth’s reissue of Series-4001, the dramatic, otherworldly eyewear silhouette that defined the look of a decade as featured by Kate Moss in 1992 comes as no surprise.
Interest in the Series-4001 soared with the publication of “The Untamed Eye,” a fashion monograph released by photographer Stephanie Pfriender Stylander in September last year. The book’s cover features a black and white photograph of Moss, then 17, and a relatively unknown talent; she is lifting the Series-4001 sunglasses over her eyes to reveal a gaze that has since graced an unprecedented number of magazine covers and fashion campaigns.
“Kate, during her early years, had an innate magic mix of vulnerability, curiousness and determination,” Pfriender Stylander recalls. “When I shot these pictures, we were at the beginning of our careers. We were young and unknown, and the story plays homage to that — romanticizing this period of youthful innocence.” The story, commissioned by Harper’s Bazaar Uomo, was one of Moss’s first fashion editorials, and quickly set the tone for the gritty, restless style that became synonymous with the early 1990s.
The successful launch of “The Untamed Eye” inspired Christian Roth and business partner, Eric Domege, to collaborate with Pfriender Stylander on a reissue of the style from the cover. “Stephanie’s photographs are nearly three decades old, but the ideas and emotions they capture — young love, rebellion, curiosity — are timeless,” Roth explains. “After speaking about her work and its significance to our label’s heritage, it was clear that the time had arrived to share a piece of our history with a new generation.”
It’s not on the scene quite yet in a big way outside Portugal, but the young 26 year old designer of Poente Eyewear, who represents the 4th generation in a family of eyewear producers is taking care to develop his label in line with an artisan family tradition. “I’m 26 years old,” says Bernardo Romão. “I was born and raised in Lisbon. I’m a designer and the owner of the emerging label.”
Poente, meaning sunset in Portuguese, is inspired by a fresh and youthful aesthetic and lifestyle. The products are handmade in Portugal, using high quality Mazzuchelli acetate with Carl Zeiss Vision lenses.
“We are working with dynamic people…designers, artists, street artists, filmmakers, photographers and writers. Our collection has a strong feeling of classic eyewear design, with a modern, forward-looking approach to presentation and style. We already have some special stockists including Optica do Sacramento (Lisbon), M Oculista (Lisbon) and Optical Boutique (Porto).” The focus is now on expanding further afield.
Poente Eyewear produces handmade acetate optical frames and sunglasses, made exclusively in Portugal in line with traditional production techniques and family traditions. Find out more about Poente Eyewear atwww.poente.ptCN
Studio Edwards designs flagship store for Vision Studio, Melbourne, Australia
A gallery-like space invites visitors to engage with and discover the Vision Studio store, located in Melbourne, Australia. Studio Edwards designed the concept with an aluminium perforated facade that hinges open to reveal a luxurious interior displaying eyewear by brands such as Dior, Dita, Mykita, LINDBERG and Thom Browne. The displays on the inside give space to 200 pairs of glasses set on shelving with storage for a further 800 pairs of glasses.
The space has an angular plan configuration with the areas requiring most privacy to the rear and semi private consulting spaces tapering to the front.
The side walls are lined with translucent display shelving which appears to float above the pastel coloured cabinets – visually connecting to the mall outside through gaps to each side of the aluminium facade.
The materials have been cleverly juxtaposed – brash New York marble is set off against the sheer pastel matt surfaces while translucent solid surfaces sit next to raw concrete and slithers of raw aluminium.
According to the designers, the store has been conceived as a physical extension of the Vision Studio brand. They worked closely with the client and graphic designer Louie Quilao to create and refine the final design. For more information: www.visionstudio.com.au / www.studio-edwards.com CN – Photography by Tony Gorsevski
At the Royal Opera Arcade Gallery in London this week, a new exhibition by Athena Anastasiou offers personal insights into the true face of South America, exploring how indigenous culture and global diversity has influenced the people of today. Through interviews and portraits of many nationalities along the journey, she culminates her own visual interpretation, uniting contemporary people with their native indigenous history.
Above: The artist pictured with ‘Bringing the Past to New Horizons – Oil Wool and Acrylic Yarn on Linen’
In a journey of discovery, she found vibrant people and societies far richer, more diverse, energetic and eclectic spectrum of influence than she ever imagined.
The portraits in this series offer a vibrant expression of colour, pattern, form and texture with bold use of interwoven fabric and multicolored yarns, referencing the artisan crafts and traditions of the Latin American cultures which live on today. www.roa-galleria.com / www.athenaanastasiou.com
The Royal Opera Arcade Gallery, 1-2 Royal Opera Arcade, Pall Mall, London (until 18th May 2019).
An eyewear store with the feel of a creative gallery, Optik Studio is located in Luxembourg city. An exclusive stockist in the country for 90% of the brands it carries, their goal is to make people discover how beautiful designer eyewear can be. “We’ve tried to do something different,” explains Maxime Drouna. “Our brands come from all over the world…France, Italy, Japan, Germany, Spain… and each of them has its own universe: you won’t see the same frame in two different collections; we are conscious that we must cover every trend.”
At present the mix includes Pugnale Eyewear, La Petite Lunette Rouge, L.G.R Sunglasses, Meg Eyewear, Mr Lenoir, and Masunaga. “There are a few more that we shall be launching shortly,” says Drouna who is passionate about original design.
In keeping with the collections, the interior of this store is elegant, understated and comfortable. “We have two little spaces where we can welcome our clients with a cup of coffee. It’s then our priority to find the right pair of glasses for every face. We don’t have large tables or dazzling lights. Instead when you visit, we would like you to feel at home.” Optik Studio is also offering a successful service for home and office appointments. For further details find the shop on Instagram @optikstudio.lu. 20 Rue Beaumont, 1219 Luxembourg – CN
London’s choice of eyewear and independent design brands is rising quickly. Several new optical stores have opened across the city in the last few months. New mono brand stores and exclusive independent boutiques are changing the face of optics in a city where consumers are more informed and interested in eyewear fashion and good design.
1. Chakshu London
The new boutique style practice Chakshu is located in Camden. The store has been created by a team of optometrists who have also launched their own eponymous house brand in premium Italian acetate. Their additional brands, meticulously chosen to suit a variety of styles, offer the latest designs. They include Lunor, SALT. Optics, and from Paris, FACEAFACE.
Chakshu London Opticians has been created as an independent practice “where you will receive a highly professional service from a knowledgeable and experienced team.” The eye examinations are conducted using state-of-the-art equipment, including an OCT 3D retinal scanner.
The co-founders have worked in a variety of different optometric settings from smaller independent stores to large retail chains. Combined, they have over 30 years’ optical experience between them. Chakshu London, 97 Parkway, Camden Town, NW1 7PPhttps://www.chakshu.co.uk/
Located in Chiswick, West London, FourFourFour opened in March 2019. This is a sister store to Barnes Nineteen at 19 Barnes High Street, and it stocks a variety of design labels including Henau, Nine, Silhouette and Garrett Leight. A modern and minimal interior – which moves away from the clinical look of some traditional British optical stores – is becoming the norm in the UK as eyewear is seen as an important fashion consideration. 444 Chiswick High Road, London
3. Izipizi Paris
Izipizi is the latest opening in the Soho/Carnaby Street area in central London. This is the French brand’s second stand-alone store in Europe; the debut store is in the Marais district of Paris. Located in the popular shopping district of Soho, this new corner store displays all of the brand’s adult and children’s collections in a small yet well designed open retail space. www.izipizi.com
4. For Art’s Sake
This is another stand-alone retail store, located in central Covent Garden in the busy covered market. The store borrows bold design details from the brand’s penchant for eclectic style: decadent blue velvet furnishings and brass fixtures have been designed to “elevate the statement-making frames”. Many new retail features have been incorporated, from a selfie station to personal shopping (in five languages: Mandarin, French, Spanish, Italian and English), a concierge option, tax-free shopping, “Click and Collect” as well as exclusive colour choices for some of the frame designs. For Art’s Sake is designed by Xiwen Zhang who is featured on 2019’s Forbes 30 Under 30 list. www.fasforartssake.com CN
Expressive colour pairings, delicate floral-inspired patterns and carefully proportioned reduced silhouettes. The new designs in the S/S 19 sunglasses collection by Fleye Copenhagen is the result of a creative process that highlights an appreciation for Scandinavian culture and FloraDanica – an iconic collection of plants from the 18th century. The design team created their own floral portraits using flowers, trees and shrubs often seen in Danish gardens – and the results offered a wealth of exciting and “powerful” tonal combinations and special engravings that make these artisan sunglasses a highlight for Spring/Summer.
Above: Model Melanie Baird wears Fleye’s cateye model Utopia – in deep brown with a shiny pink inner rim from the Signature Collection. Photography by Gennaro D’Elia exclusively for Eyestylist.com at Bageriet, Nordic Bakery & Cafe, Covent Garden. www.bageriet.co.uk
These comfortable lightweight frames – in mixes of titanium, beta-titanium and/or acetate – feature delicately tinted polarized lenses which provide 100% UV protection.
Fleye Copenhagen sunglasses have arrived in London for Spring. Visit Spex in the City in Covent Garden to see the new frames. www.spexinthecity.com / To find further stockists in Europe visit www.fleye.dk CN
Milan Design Week 2019: Palermouno renewed – concept studio focuses on chromatic research and international design
PalermoUno, the studio of Sophie Wannenes inaugaurated last November, has been filled with shapes and new artworks for Milan Design Week 2019. The exhibition – which includes limited editions and unique products have one common thread – colour that redefines spaces, choreographies, which completely change the look of the environment – give a new image to all eight rooms in the studio. The exhibition will continue through until July.
The space located in Brera confirms an original concept: each room keeps its functional connotation, revealing the desire to create a place that is in constant evolution. The product is part of the space, as well as an invitation to “please touch and bring me with you”. Attention is paid to the selection of furnishings made for PalermoUno in the customization of the shapes and in the colours and their gradients.
From 9 April the new exhibition, which will remain on display until 15 July 2019, will be accompanied by the launch of the ecommerce site Palermouno.it where it is possible to buy the objects and furnishing accessories present in the different spaces. For further details visit: www.palermouno.it – Images: Andrea Pedretti CN
German design label Mykita has moved its New York store to 458 Broome Street into the heart of the fashionable Soho neighbourhood of the city. After five years on Crosby Street, the new two-floor space comprises a large area of 1590 square feet where the full collection is now presented alongside a state-of-the-art lab and workshop.
The company says it is the first shop to allow a full view into the optical lab and workshop showing the combination of handcrafting and high-tech that defines what the company refers to as “Modern Manufactory”. It also means the shop can offer a comprehensive optical service including in-house lens cutting, glazing, adjustments and repairs.
Mykita currently has a large and growing number of shops around the world, with further openings already slated for 2019 and a new store just opened in Carrer de Valencia, Barcelona. www.mykita.com CN
As our attention as consumers is drawn increasingly to sustainable, eco-friendly innovations, eyewear companies across the business are exploring an eco-conscious path with creativity and resourcefulness.
Vinylize, the independent Budapest brand that turns old, unwanted vinyl records into beautifully made ‘upcycled’ artisan eyewear, has moved on its own potential in eco-friendly eyewear production in a special project with coffee giant Nespresso, in Hungary.
“This was a pilot project,” says Zack Tipton, founder of Vinylize. “The limited production run sold out within a few days. We used a material produced from Nespresso capsules, recycled by the coffee company in Hungary. The used coffee grinds are separated from the capsules and sent to composting. The capsules are then smelted and turned into aluminium sheet which we can then use to produce the frames. The entire process is documented and certified.”
The result was an eye-catching limited edition glasses collection for Nespresso with designs inspired by the tones of the Nespresso Kazaar, Dharkan, Roma and Livanto capsules – in tones of satin midnight blue, gold and chocolate. “The coloration and finish were determined by Nespresso. They wanted a perfect match with the original colours of the capsules,” explains Tipton. “The durability we were able to achieve surpassed expectations. The frames were also prescription ready.”
The shapes produced in the first edition are inspired by the classic oval, butterfly and square designs, with a contemporary interpretation.
Vinylize-Tipton x Nespresso is ‘a salute to recycling’, designed to remind consumers of the infinite durability of aluminium which can be re-melted and reused, again and again. The project also aimed to further boost the recycling of Nespresso coffee capsules by showing the infinite potential of the recycled aluminium material.
The sophisticated matt finish of the frames is achieved through a tumbling process and hand-lacquering treatment at a German facility, while the eco-friendly felt case and paper box the frames were packaged in underscore the eco-credentials of the special edition. Further editions are planned for 2019.
Tipton Eyeworks and the Vinylize brand were founded in 2004, and have become world-renowned for their handmade production using vinyl to produce fashionable sunglasses and eyewear in Hungary. For further details: https://vinylize.com/CN
Michael Stoffels has transformed part of the historicZunfthaus zur Meisen in the Lindenhof Quarter, Zürich, into a state-of-the-art designer optical boutique.
Michael Stoffels opened his eponymous store in November 2018, replacing the well-known store on Storchengasse which had been run by the family in this location since 1983. The new prestigious boutique is located in the Zunfthaus zur Meisen, an historic 18th century building celebrated for its Grand Guild Hall and its exceptional central position overlooking the river Limmat. The interior of the shop merges contemporary and traditional features with striking colours and an artistic style with elegant, one-off pieces of furniture and art works.
Stoffels, who created the interior design for the store with Jaqueline van Maren, architect and interior designer, said the aim was to open a hip optical store in the very traditional historic setting, with a unique experience compared to other stores and an open and appealing outlook for young people. “We wanted to attract attention in a well-known location,” he added, “where thousands of people walk by every day. The brilliant colours are inspired by Yves Saint Laurent and his love for Marrakech, and the vibrant “Blumlihalle” (hall of little flowers) in Zurich, painted by Augusto Giacometti, nephew of the famous Swiss sculptor.” The exotic interior and its elegant furnishings create a setting that is more like a luxury living room than an optical retail space.
The shop has opened with a selection of handpicked niche collections which include Eyevan, Lucas de Stael, Retro Specs, Moscot, Carin and ‘Stoffels Own’ collection which is handmade in Switzerland.
Other outstanding features of the interior decoration include an impressive wall painting created with a bespoke wallpaper, designed especially for the wall and the colour scheme of the shop, by Jakob Schlaepfer from St. Gallen. Stoffels explains: “Jakob Schlaepfer is one of the most famous producers of haute couture textiles. The wallpaper is covered with a hologram foil, which is illuminated at night and gives a beautiful glittering effect visible from outside to passers-by.”
60s fever, and gold and silver retro metal rims, are challenging the elongated It-Girl cat’s eye as one of the most popular sunglass looks as we head into Spring, and we’ve seen it on the streets at London Fashion Week, and again in Milan. The lens tints are fun and colourful or very delicate, so they don’t completely hide the eyes, while the rims are extremely narrow, closely representing the styling of the past. Above: Em . The Lipstick Fever, wearing metal rim sunglasses at London Fashion Week in February. https://thelipstickfever.com/ Photography by G. D’Elia – exclusively for Eyestylist.com
Austrian label Andy Wolf has made the metal rims a key feature of the 2019 collections, experimenting with very small shapes as well as classic panto shapes, such as model Amira (above). This design comes with a variety of gentle lens tints including soft blue, pale pink and gold. Available at Matches Fashion – https://www.matchesfashion.com/womens/designers/andy-wolf -, or for further information visit www.andywolf.com
Or choose a unique style from one of the smaller labels. Viveur’s elegantly fashioned metal designs are made in Italy and have a chic finesse. The metal material is 100% hypoallergenic and very lightweight. The collections for Spring/Summer include round “panto” designs and slightly modified angular shapes such as Greg above – a shape with a flattened top that’s on the rise. Available to purchase online at www.viveursunglasses.com CN
Inspired by the Inuits and their distinctive iconic protective snow goggles, Malina sunglasses by You Mawo celebrate bold design created with 3D printing technology. Original Inuit frames featured a narrow oval lens shape, reducing the amount of light exposure to prevent snow blindness. Traditionally made of natural materials such as driftwood or bone, the frame would be carved to fit the face with slits that also acted to improve visual acuity according to the width.
Based on the classic interpretation, this new release by You Mawo, named Malina after the Inuit solar deity, explores the creative potential of 3D printed frames with a light yet sturdy, bold rim and gently curved silhouette. A modern fashion statement is achieved with the addition of the gold mirrored lenses, a stark contrast with the eye-catching black structure in Polyamide. Launched last weekend at Mido for the new season, the frame, produced in an edition of just 50 pieces, goes on sale at £600 (689 euros) in specialist retailers including Specs Berlin: find details at https://specs-berlin.de/en/female/you-mawo-malina
Award-winning German brand YOU MAWO is an innovator in custom tailored 3D printed eyewear. Founded in 2016, their frames are made exclusively in Germany with laser sintering technology. The frames in YOU MAWO’s mainline collections are made to measure via an iPad scan of the wearer’s individual face topography. This scan forms the foundation for the production of the frame to optimise comfort and fit. The frames are also customised with the individual’s name printed on the inside. Find further details at: https://www.youmawo.com/en/ CN
Buffalo horn. Fabric. Rubber. Acetate. The eye is drawn to the individual qualities of these materials in contemporary eyewear as young innovators highlight the form and structure of the product with special tactile details and deep nuances in coloration, some of these qualities, just visible with the naked eye.
In the Icons Line at Hapter, the rubberised surface featured has been developed to offer an exclusive tactile aesthetic and feel, with a retro inspiration and a slightly “aged” elegance. Italian founder Eric Balzan has invested years’ of research and development into collections that, for 2019, are further enhanced with a newly patented 8-GON Hinge. The brand will exhibit at Mido in the Design Lab (Pav 4 Stand S11) www.hapter.it Above: RBBR002 – the Icons Line – HAPTER
Rigards has attracted much attention in the last 12 months with their avantgarde collection, and in horn, they highlight the natural qualities of the material, the asymmetrical colorations and the beautiful striated patterns and effects where the surface is hand polished or left in its more natural state. www.rigards.com
Delirious Eyewear, the Milan label, produces buffalo horn frames with a distinct, light touch and artistic aesthetic: designed in Italy, the frames are made from natural Indian water buffalo horn. The process begins by milling two small boards of the same material; one for the front, and the other, for the temples. All the parts are ‘tumbled’, to smooth the little parts and surfaces in a process that can take up to a week. Finally, the artisans put the design together, polishing the surface with pads that highlight the details of the material and the brilliant surface. www.deliriouseyewear.com
In a similar vein – studying the possibilities in surface finishes worked by hand, TAVAT Tactile includes models that have been hand scratched and designs worked on with a pin-stripe laser treatment – mimicking the lines of the iconic Italian “Riva” boat. The frames are made in Italy and designed to offer the utmost comfort on the face. www.tavateyewear.comCN
Find these and other innovators at Mido – the Milan trade fair – from 23-25 February 2019.
With a backdrop of blue skies marking the first feeling of Spring, London Fashion Week opened on Friday. Alongside the main catwalk events and the colourful street style scenes off the catwalks – one of the highlights are the Designer Showrooms on The Strand, offering a diverse, handpicked showcase of over 50 smaller, up-and-coming international brands, a valuable platform for exposure and introductions to the world of fashion in the UK. – Above: buffalo horn frame detail, Delirious Eyewear. Photography: G. D’Elia
“Showcasing within the LFW Designer Showrooms allows brands to develop relationships with globally influential stores and helps to increase their exposure to top international journalists, publications and stylists.”
Representing the eyewear category at the Showrooms and premiering in the UK is Delirious Eyewear from Italy, an exclusive design label recognised by Vogue Italia’s “Who’s on next” awards (2018). Created by young entrepreneur Marco Lanero, the collection is produced in titanium and beta titanium, and the finest acetates and natural Indian buffalo horn, and is currently designed and made in Italy, with focus on traditional Cadore craftsmanship and expertise, rigorously monitored to ensure a unique and accomplished finish.
Buffalo horn remains a popular luxury material in eyewear, and Delirious aims high, using lengthy techniques in the production and final “tumbling” and polishing by hand. Their expertise in this material has attracted the attention of the fashion industry, through an ability to use the traditional techniques and merge them with contemporary design elements.
The Delirious Eyewear collections go into stores in London this season. The definition of luxury eyewear, their alternative design focus brings a contemporary look to the most classical aspects of traditionally made spectacles, as well as providing an impeccable comfort and fit. For more information about Delirious Eyewear visit the company in Milan (Mido trade fair) from 23-25th February 2019 or visit their website at www.deliriouseyewear.comCN Photography by Gennaro D’Elia exclusively for Eyestylist.com. All rights reserved.
Falvin’s Signature Eyewear – launching for the Spring/Summer season – combines Danish design expertise and exquisite Japanese crafting in contemporary shapes in lightweight titanium. The frames celebrate a passion for a Copenhagen landmark – the Crystal – a building from which founder Birgitte Falvin takes inspiration, for an eloquent direction in line and form. Above: released at the German trade fair opti last month, the new Falvin model Stellar. New additions are coming for the Mido trade fair, Milan. The brand exhibits in the prestigious Lab Academy ( Pav 6 / Stand LA 47) where up-and-coming designers and innovators showcase their collections.
Model Stellar (above and in featured video) is a contemporary version of the traditional cat’s eye frame, offering a supreme level of comfort and a statement shape in the state-of-the-art material. Using techniques that can only be mastered by hand, the beautiful two-tone base silhouette offers a luxury expression with black, white or champagne Wesselton diamond settings to create a personalized look. A trained jewellery designer, Birgitte Falvin has studied this element for the finishing of her distinctive eyewear, creating a one-off luxury detail that is both gentle yet sparkling – to catch the beholder’s eye.
The innovative diamond setting is of the highest quality, assembled by a top jeweler in Denmark, appointed by Falvin Eyewear. Find out more about the luxury designs for men and women by the Danish label at www.falvineyewear.com CN
Consider the eyewear accessory here to stay – a much underplayed fashion item in the past, start-ups and fashion industry creatives have refocused on this element of eyewear to fit perfectly with our insatiable desire to create an individual “style of our own”.
Milan’s Federica Moretti launched Huma Sunglasses + accessories in 2017. Inspired to reflect and embrace the creativity and extravagance of the fashion industry, the hat designer came up with a new eyewear collection idea in a range of clean, “basic” sunglass designs (made in Italy) to be worn with “captivating” decorative accessories – with special fastenings that clip onto temples.
These decorative elements can be worn depending on where your mood takes you. The choice includes small jewellery items that fasten to the ring in the temple, crystals, silks, and decorative stones, through to extravagant slightly humorous acrylic “hair pieces” for those who choose to dress to be seen.
Moretti’s imagination has literally run wild with the hair extensions producing an eccentric look in crazy colours. In contrast, some of the designs are subtle and delicate designed as chic jewellery embellishments, perfect for evenings out, special occasions or a gift for the accessory enthusiast with a taste for all things new and different. For more details about Huma and designer Federica Moretti visit Huma Sunglasses on Instagram: @humasunglasses. Available at I Visionari in Florence https://ivisionari.com/collections/humaCN
Growing in size and stature, the 2019 edition of opti – the German trade fair – offered a vast experience of eyewear from all corners of the earth. It’s hard to know where to start and where to look, and 3 days was barely sufficient to discover the most interesting design directions and innovations of the year.
Our focus was drawn particularly to artisan works addressing a purposeful design thinking, where natural materials are highlighted, incorporated with other materials, and inspiring an extraordinarily interesting study into surfaces and finishes – as in other design disciplines.
Above: Rigards – by Ti Kwa – continues to explore new ways to work with unusual materials. Their gorgeous copper patina finishes are now available in a variety of ‘rust’ and jasper/jade colorations and combinations with the signature miniature lock-in sun clip. Pictured – Model RG1911CU / for Ziggy Chen. www.rigards.com
In a new departure, using wood and metal, Spanish label Nina Mûr pays homage to deconstructivism and the maximum exponent of this movement in Spain, The Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. The collection consists of two models, Mikel and Izorne (above) in three versions. Following their much loved Memphis inspired collection with Abet Laminati, the Deseraiki launch represents a mature and refined release marked by constructive nuances, textures and materials. www.ninamur.com
Italian label Pugnale has an interesting collection for 2019, following their excellent collaboration in 2018 with architect Hani Rashid. The extensive range this year includes multiple materials such as buffalo horn, leather, mother of pearl and precious silks and several eye-catching pieces such as the square Esaedro which has a metal insert on the bridge. www.pugnaleeyewear.com
Hapter from Italy has an exciting year ahead. A patented hinge – the 8-GON hinge – previewed at opti for the very first time – is to be introduced through the collections. Their extraordinary work with surfaces – in tactile rubber and carefully selected fabric – continues to place them at the forefront of the design led companies in eyewear. www.hapter.it
In the fast growing field of 3d printed eyewear (there are already more than 40 3D printed brands we are aware of), opti offered an expansive overview of the current directions: from the sculptured “creative” look of Impressio (www.impressio.lu) to the minimal luxe of Gotti Dimension (www.gotti.ch) high-precision range in Polyamide and Rolf Spectacles’ new 3d printed titanium Skyline collection – which is printed, with additive manufacturing techniques, in Germany and hand finished in Austria. Rolf’s second Skyline edition offers fine silhouettes in natural colours with textured surfaces that are perfectly in tune with the focus on tactile, “raw” earthy finishes. www.rolf-spectacles.com
The opti boxes are always an ideal location to find new ideas. The collective ‘We are Annu’ were a highlight amongst the start-ups with their paper clip inspired glasses made “half by machine and half by hand”. The innovation lies in the easy modular construction of the frames – made of 3D printed nylon fronts with titanium wire temples (in 3 colour choices) and put together with a simple screwless hinge concept; not forgetting an attentive focus on fit with customizable nose pads and temples. It comes as no surprise that an independent optician is among the co-founders. More details at: www.weareannu.com
Eyestylist.com will identify other key trends discovered at opti in the edits we have coming up through Spring 2019. opti munich returns in January 2020 – save the date -10th to 12th January – www.opti.de CN
Sahra Lysell is the Senior Colour Designer atØrgreen Optics in Copenhagen.She has been with the company for over 20 years.
How did you become a colour specialist – has colour always been a part of you and your personality? I have a degree in fashion design, but I have always had a very strong intuition regarding colour and had an interest in how different tones work as an expression for emotions, our state of mind, and culture in society. I feel fortunate to have been able to make a career out of working with colour and to be part of a company that understands it is a very powerful communication tool.
Does colour affect you in your daily life? I believe so – it is a big part of my decision-making in all parts of my life. For example, most of the art in our apartment was chosen for the colours and combinations of colour. I am drawn more by that than by the theme or the artist. My favourite painting is by the Danish artist, Michael Kvium. Called Pale Eyed View, it is a picture of a man standing in a red sea. The red is a mix of red, orange and purple. This painting taught me to use hues that are difficult to define. The colours are interesting, and often flattering on the face.
On a daily basis, I find colour plays a role in what I do. I love to cook, and I love to play with colours when making food. It is very rare that I serve a dish where the special hues of Mother Nature don’t emphasize the experience. Purple for beetroot, orange for carrots, red for tomatoes, and the colour of a perfectly grilled steak, red in the middle, then rose and at last crispy brown on the edge. I can also see my 3 year old daughter is inspired to eat certain things due to the colour itself. She loves red ice cream! I could serve her beetroot ice cream and she would go for it just because it would be an amazing red!
“I have always seen things in colour, my brain works in a very visual way. If we are working on a new collection at Ørgreen, people always wants key words to work from, but I need to start with three colours! For me, this sets a mood, starts an emotion, and then I can get to work….”
In my office, I have three pictures of Mexican cemeteries; it may sound morbid, but the pictures are amazing and show bright, colorful graves and cathedrals that celebrate the story of a life. I have always had these pictures to remind me about differences in cultures and how there are so many colour stories to be told!
As a person, are you more about bright statement colours or quieter softer tones? Or do you wear colour according to your mood? I use colour according to my mood, and I love combinations of soft tones with a touch of something bright. For me, it is always about balance. When I choose colours or clothing, I like to mix the extravagant with the down-to-earth, masculine with feminine, or past with present. As I mentioned earlier I love big colorful paintings, but also black and white photos. My favorite tones change depending on the subject..whether I am considering fashion, art, furniture or nature.
What is the key to colour in fashion? I guess that every one of us owns a personal approach to colour; this comes from how you understand society and what people are craving for – positivity, seriousness, provocation, purity, innocence… all of these things are influential. A strong intuition is essential.
As innovation in 3D printing moves forward with leaps and bounds, in eyewear, new design directions focus on the extraordinary lightness and comfort of the Polyamide material and, increasingly, its adaptability to produce different, more creative eyewear designs. Specialists in 3D printed frames, Danish company Monoqool continues to work in this field with a particular focus on the perfect balance of comfort and astute contemporary style. With an architectural aesthetic and an underlying passion for Danish design, Monoqool has taken their collection forward with combination styles featuring Polyamide fronts and fine metal temples in a palette of eye-catching modern colours from ochre and violet through to a light, dusty green.
Above: The spectacular Ragnarock Museum of Rock in Roskilde (http://museumragnarock.dk/besoeg/), Denmark was selected as the venue for the Spring/Summer campaign. The setting is a colourful, unusual building designed by Cobe Architects (http://www.cobe.dk) – inspired by the 70s looks of Danish designer Verner Panton (http://verner-panton.com), who shocked the world with his colourful space age design.
For SS19, the Danish brand launches 12 eyewear shapes and four new sunglasses. “We aimed for a mix of frames, from the colourful and extraordinary to the classically cool,” says Allan Petersen, founder of Monoqool. “Four new colours are added to the already considerable line of 3D printed frames.”
The line up of frames features the popular Monoqool Slider series with a flat horizontal temple and screwless hinge. The Slider frames are made in ultra lightweight 3D printed polyamide material, which results in a frame weighing only 4 grams. It is in the Monoqool DNA to make frames with a high degree of comfort and which are easy to adjust and give a perfect fit – as well as offering contemporary design and an accomplished attention to detail.
Monoqool will exhibit the new collection at opti Munich in Germany from 25th to 27th January 2019. For more details about the latest designs, visit their website at www.monoqool.com. CN
Munich’s expanding international fair for optical professionals – opti – takes place in a few weeks at Fairground Munich. Known for its wide variety of exhibitors and impressive line up of independent designers, the event is one of the highlights of the optical year in Europe, and is increasingly attended by retailers and business professionals from inside and outside Europe.
This year, the fair offers an exceptional mix of creative designers and distinctive eyewear collections from as far afield as Hong Kong, the US, Swedish Lapland and Canada. First time exhibitors include Rapp, Nirvan Javan, Frency and Mercury and Specs Lab Zurich.
A selection of start-ups and small labels will show in the OPTI Boxes (Hall C2), some, such as Lightbird (Italy), showing product for the first time. Above: Young label PORTRAIT Eyewear from Italy will show their new artistic Glitch Series (opti BOXES). The Interface sunglasses (above) are a tribute to Peter Campus, the American pioneer video artist. www.portraiteyewear.com
Oliver Goldsmith pioneered the idea of “winter sunglasses” in 1966, according to Claire Goldsmith. In an article written about them in the 60s in the UK, the concept was explained: “The idea was that these designs should be worn in the winter months as there was insufficient sun-light to warrant wearing dark lensed summer sunglasses.” Originally, the lenses were made from precision ground optical glass and were very pale in density making them ideal for wearing indoors as well as outside on dull winter days.” Re-exploring the concept with special releases for opti19, the new styles offer the statement style of Goldsmith designs and are fitted with state-of-the-art soft hued lenses by Divel Italy for exceptional comfort and protection. www.olivergoldsmith.com
Always bold and decorative, J F REY’s BOZ collection continues to offer surprising shapes and eccentric combinations, designed with sophisticated creative touches. The BOZ collection will be exhibited with JF REY, 1985, and the much praised leather line – Le Cuir – at the opti fair. www.jfrey.fr
Tavat Eyewear has launched a series of exciting designs in recent months. Their ability to use innovative construction in multiple designs and material combinations continues to develop through a strong commitment to original design and artisan excellence. Find them at opti and visit their website at www.tavateyewear.com
Titanium experts Blackfin return to the fair in Germany with new styles in the Black Edition, where a special treatment – Blackfin Nano-Plating™ – creates shiny finishes on the advanced material. Find out more at www.blackfineyewear.eu
opti Munich takes place atFairground Munich from 25th to 27th January 2019. The show will offer an extensive new layout as it expands to include Halls C5 and C6. For full details and a full list of exhibitors, visit www.opti.de CN
As the first fairs of the 2019 Spring season approach, eyewear companies will reveal the trends of the months ahead, fresh innovations in design, and expressive new colour codes to explore and inspire. 100% Optical, the UK’s optical fair – which takes place at ExCel exhibition centre will set the scene for the Spring optical calendar from 12th to 14th January 2019 and promises a selection of independent eyewear designers as part of the line-up which also includes innovative lenses and technology. Above: From Denmark, LINDBERG is one of the leading independent luxury companies exhibiting at 100% this year. Their collections include fine materials such as titanium, wood and buffalo horn. www.LINDBERG.com
British label Kirk & Kirk are staunch supporters of the UK fair and return with their colourful Centena collection in January, designed by Jason Kirk in celebration of his family’s 100 years in optics. This line is unique in its 10mm acrylic material which is flattering, bold yet – at the same time – surprisingly light to wear. The sculptural look of the frames is part and parcel of their unique appeal. Check out www.kirkandkirk.com
Ørgreen Optics has an exceptionally strong and varied selection of eyewear collections to show for 100%: as well as the new acetates in the latest Minimal Vintage Collection, they have just announced a 3rd Quantum collection, which features their exceptional spherical hinge design and showcases their design skills in combining Polyamide and titanium. Visit www.orgreenoptics.com
Part of The Eyewear Design Group, Woow Eyewear will exhibit with other exceptional collections in this portfolio of brands which also includes FACE A FACE. Woow is colourful, exuberant in character and always injects humour and fun! www.wooweyewear.com
neubau’s latest sunglasses edition offers a homage to Bauhaus founder Walter Gropius and the painter Wassily Kandinsky. The shape of the model is based on the Bauhaus philosophy of “form follows function” while the design and material choices are directly inspired by the movement, with a titanium frame based on bent steel tubes combined with fade tint mirror lenses recalling the facade of Walter Gropius’ Bauhaus school building in Dessau. neubau will exhibit their new optical and sun collections alongside sister company Silhouette Eyewear at the London fair. For more details about the brand, visit www.neubau-eyewear.com.
Just released a few days ago the new Elevate collection by Monkey Glasses also goes on show this month – this sustainable brand is one of several to exhibit at the London show (Bird Eyewear and Pala), and highlights the growing interest in recycling in the frame business. The brand has begun to use packaging in recycled paper as part of its eco action to go plastic free. For more details visit www.monkeyglasses.com.
Arranged by the fair organisers, this year’s RCA Eyewear design competition’s theme is 2020 Vision in Motion. The competition asked the Royal College of Art students to design and make a maquette of a new vision device, which functions as a health aid/ protection as well as a style statement we are opening up the range to possibly include; viewfinder/ device/ VR headset. Six finalists have been chosen by the judging panel and their work will be on show during the 3-day event : Andrew Cullo, Annie Foo, Fi Grew, Giulia Lombardi, Loy Chen and Sunny Kitfung. The winner will be announced during the fair.
theo’s exceptional Somers Optiek store in Antwerp, a window on the eyewear label’s world of colour, love, energy and design, always has a trick up its sleeve. In anticipation of the Chinese New Year in February and theo’s passion for all things ‘Valentine’ (14th February), the boutique is now resonating with the vibrant colours and textures of colourful dragons from the East.
Somers Optiek first opened in its current location behind the KBC Tower – a landmark ‘Art Deco Skyscraper” – in 2008. Since our last visit in 2012 – see Joan Grady’s feature at https://www.eyestylist.com/2012/11/somers-optiek/ – the store has expanded, with a new fresh open space designed to cater to a young customer and their particular requirements for styling, colour and design. The space was designed by APRIL ONE’s Karine Ribbens (www.aprilone.be).
The store features a comprehensive selection of new and past designs by the iconic Belgian company, many of which are hidden behind the scenes, ready for customers to explore and try on at their leisure. Just a few frames are displayed on cabinets or in alcoves to highlight new colour, shapes or special releases. Somers Optiek offers a comprehensive eyecare service with state-0f-the-art eye testing available in the lower level consulting rooms as well as styling expertise from ‘theo’ trained frame specialists. Visit online at www.somersoptiek.be / www.theo.beCN
Plein Les Mirettes’ Christophe Morcamp combines the creative eye of a couture designer with an astute focus on comfort and ease of wear in a frame design. The stunning new acetate model Re Belle 14 by this exotic little French label offers a wearable statement shape, gently cut into on either side of the front to add to its vibrant character. The colour palette has an unusual vertical fade effect, playing with chic tones “side by side” for a result that is both surprising technically and flattering when worn.
Plein Les Mirettes produces its women’s eyewear designs in a highly regarded traditional spectacle-making factory in Normandy, northern France. The elegant materials come from Mazzucchelli, the Italian leader in acetate production. Find the latest designs at www.plein-les-mirettes.frCN
The rise of the eyewear chain continues as our love affair with decorative details, chunky gold jewellery and semi-precious stones moves forward into the new season. The UK’s no. one company in this department – Frame Chain – has come over all glam for 2019 – proposing a wide selection of new designs as the finishing touch for any outfit – for women, and yes, men too. Above: Classic pearls are a feature of the new season collection at Frame Chain.
With the launch of their new campaign, designers Vanessa Harrington and Ann-Margret Kearney demonstrate the complete versatility of the chains, which are equally as beautiful worn as a necklace (top image) or suspended from the frame itself (see above). We also love the bling effect of two or three worn together!
All the designs come with two sets of attachments in black and white, to coordinate with your chosen eyewear, and feature a small statement Frame Chain logo plaque. More styles can be found at www.framechain.co.uk as well as Selfridges, Matches and Liberty of London. CN
Campaign Credits: Photography by Alastair Strong / Stylist Ailsa Jane Miller/ MUA Anna Gibson / Creative WE ARE DISCO/ Models Nejilka & Paige Saffron.
The New York eyewear scene continues to see a healthy surge in creativity and directional trends. This month sees the launch of yet another newcomer called SpiltMilk Eyewear, set up with the creative input from the NYC based designer Vidal Erkohen (RVS Eyewear). Made in Japan, with focus on quality standards and innovative design concepts with a global inspiration, the collection is proposing some experimental ideas “to represent the conjunction between fashion and culture” and builds from a high-energy colour palette – on point for SS19.
In the mix for the launching collections of sunnies are designs that combine two shapes in one (Bali), a super round shape with inner rim connected with an open wire mesh (Bora Bora), a detailed aviator statement piece (Maldives) and a narrow elongated trendy wire form that is slightly upswept – in chic combos such as lime with scarlet and pastel pink with black (Phi Phi).
The new brand has been under development since 2017, and is owned by Saif Ghobash (London) and Judge Khanna (NYC) – a New York based accessories designer. Spilt Milk launches its first sunglasses collection at the end of October and goes online shortly at www.spiltmilkeyewear.com. CN
Internet brands are booming, and in sports-oriented sunwear there is now a confusing mass of online only brands selling direct to the consumer, with just a handful working that little bit extra to offer a balance of affordability, functionality, and, importantly, attentive customer service.
In the sports/leisure segment, Sungod Custom Optics – a start-up based in the UK and Verbier, Switzerland, has launched a customisable sunglasses collection – with a team of hard-core sports personalities endorsing the designs on Instagram including Stephanie Ede (duathlete/cyclist), Max Rowe (freestyle windsurfer) and Tom Bishop (triathlete).
The process of purchasing the product itself is different, quite fun, for the novelty, and super fast. You choose a shape (all quite standard), select the colours of the front, temples, lenses and logo icon – according to your personal preference – and then buy. The order – once processed, is with you within a couple of days (in my case 48 hours – the frames are assembled in the UK) and offers a Lifetime Guarantee promising that all breakages will be repaired – or fully replaced – free of charge. My first order included the Custom SIERRAS and the Custom Classics – both standard shapes, in one size, but just working ok for my smallish face shape and my son’s, who is 15. (Above: Custom SIERRAS).
UV protection is the key feature, and beyond that the sunglasses perform as a hard-wearing option for sports and outdoor activities at a realistic price (from £65.00) – this is of course significantly lower than equivalent all-round sport styles by Ray-Ban and Oakley.
For technical content, the 4KO Lenses are made from a 2mm Polycarbonate Core and you select from 5 lens tints that offer enhanced contrast and optimised clarity – the tint we selected in “smoke” was comfortable in bright conditions. Polarised versions are also available and judging by the number of water sports enthusiasts featured on the Instagram page, the lenses are adaptable and suitable for water sports.
The frame itself is made from the company’s Adventureproof Frame Material – this is a memory polymer – designed for durability, protection and high flexibility. It’s as good as any standard sports sunglasses material coming from China and it feels light and modern and pleasant to the touch. The colours are classic and easy-to-wear and a popular look for youngsters and the teen and 20+ market.
Sungod Custom Optics produces sports-oriented sunglasses and sports goggles. They have also launched a special signature series of models in collaboration with Pro Team Athletes including Hannah Whiteley and we expect to see more exciting projects from their young entrepreneurial team. For more details visit www.sungod.coCN
Handmade eyewear, of our time: Patinated Copper with Aluminum Magnesium
Ti Kwa’s commitment to design innovation is increasingly recognised across the industry and in the upper echelons of the optical retailing community and he continues to quietly push the boundaries in his work in materials, textures and specialist production techniques, with resounding individuality and an unmistakable style.
This September, his label RIGARDS explores an exceptional copper material finish with a gently-toned verdigris in a model designed for avant-garde fashion designer Ziggy Chen (RG1911CU), based on an existing “small and narrow” shape in the collection that has come to be known as the ‘Mad Scientist’.
The finish, a tribute to Bronze Age ritual vessels and their weathered slightly mottled greenish tones, appears in a unique way in all the models as the copper takes the patina finish differently from frame to frame.
“We added an interchangeable clip-on,” explains the designer. “Made from ultralight aluminum-magnesium — it locks onto the frame front and converts the glasses from optical frame to sunglasses. Two small side holes hold an eyeglass chain, allowing the sun-clip to double as jewellery.” Both the glasses and the clip-on can be fitted with lenses through built-in openings, part of RIGARDS’ exclusive screwless spring-hinge mechanism designed to ensure the product is both aesthetically pleasing and maintenance-free.
RIGARDS (from Hong Kong) was first launched in 2012, and exhibited their handcrafted buffalo horn eyewear months later at SILMO, the Paris eyewear fair (see our first story in 2012 at https://www.eyestylist.com/2012/11/rg0006/ ). Designer Ti Kwa has a refreshingly different perspective on design and has gradually opened eyes to the possibilities in creating exclusive artisan pieces with a distinctive modern approach to production techniques and eyewear aesthetics. RIGARDS exhibits at SILMO (Paris) and Paris Fashion Week. Don’t miss this collection: https://rigards.com CN