Eyestylist

| Eyestylist 18th May 2022

opti 2022: return to ‘live’

The Munich event celebrated the return of face-to-face meetings, friendly conversations and the bringing together of the industry again

opti 2022, which took place on the weekend of 13th to 15th May, following numerous prior disruptions from the pandemic, has been celebrated as an ideal reunion for brands and business partners, opticians and optical ‘friends’. A convivial and relaxed atmosphere, where visitors could have direct access to some of the finest established and emerging independent labels in the business meant that there was much opportunity for new inspiration, trend analysis and fresh and exciting buying opportunities for all those interested in unique eyewear. Above: Clodagh Norton, Eyestylist.com and co-founder of Lunettes ALF, Germain Bouchara – ‘catching up after over two years’ – photography by Julien Alazard

French label Lunettes ALF is distributed by Wolf Continental in Germany – green was one of the most popular fresh colours for eyewear  at opti

Lunettes ALF, a brand that is already well established in Germany, exhibited as part of Wolf Continental, the House of Independent Quality Eyewear working with a selection of luxury and artisan brands including ALF, Lasry, and Frank Custom in the German-speaking region.

LEINZ Eyewear won the opti BOX award at opti 2022

Among the highlights of the weekend was a win by LEINZ Eyewear, who received the opti Box Award. Beate Leinz is a well-known eyewear designer and her young eponymous label has a captivating, creative contemporary design focus with consistent interest in quality, originality and modern materials such as 3D printed polyamide – exploring the materials’ potential in glamorous forms.

Several brands we do not know so well caught our eye at the fair, and a particularly warm welcome was appreciated at Lazare Studio, a label born in Lyon and headed by the optician (of Entre-Vues) and creator, Alexandre Caton. His expertise in and passion for vintage has translated into a collection that is innovative and surprising – where the choice of materials, weight distribution and technical details such as hinges are highly considered and result in a quite different outcome in terms of the experience of the frame and how it feels to wear.

Newton by Lazare Studio: minimal lines, sharp edges, directly inspired by 1940s eyewear styles

Newton by Lazare Studio is representative of the ‘neo retro’ design work at the French brand. Each frame is described as the result of the meeting of “two worlds that were never meant to collide. On the one hand, a selection of exclusive signature parts made from ancestral materials sourced from Japan, and on the other, the extraordinary savoir-faire of the Jura workshops in France.”

Interstellar in the Quantum High collection- Ørgreen Optics: 3D printed polyamide front, beta titanium wire temples with accent colours and an integrated hinge system

Other innovators such as Cutler and Gross, Blackfin, Rolf Spectacles, VAVA, Youmawo, Ørgreen Optics, J F REY, RIGARDS and RES/REI showed the season’s new collections with attention on sustainability, exceptional quality and new modes of design; contemporary materials were more eclectic than ever, with 3D printed, customisable and plant-based designs well represented alongside the classic high-quality and luxury materials like cellulose acetate, wood, buffalo horn and titanium. opti 2023 will take place on 27 to 29th January 2023. To read more about what we discovered at the shows this season follow Eyestylist on the website and our social media. For more details about the Munich fair, visit www.opti.de

| Eyestylist 16th May 2022

Haute Couture eyewear: made in Florence

FATHER$ON eyewear by couturier designer Clarissa Oliverio – a bridge between past and future

The young couturier designer Clarissa Oliverio has created a collection of haute couture eyewear which features luxury Florentine fabrics and silver jewellery. Shown for the first time in Milan in May 2022, each piece is made by hand in Florence with a strict adherence to old-fashioned artisan design and handcrafting. Oliverio describes her designs as “the first glasses in the world set with the velvets and silk brocades of Florence, handmade with nineteenth-century looms, expertly created by the Master weavers of the historic Lisio Silk Art Foundation, established in 1971 to preserve and pass on the work of the Giuseppe Lisio 1906 Manufactory. This extraordinary foundation possesses looms from the end of the 19th century, and produces silk in the old-fashioned way, with just a few centimetres of fabric being produced in one day. Above: the model ‘Rinascimento Fiorentino’ (Florentine Renaissance) – has a structured design with a flat top in white Mazzucchelli acetate featuring a silver crocodile on the temple and silk brocade insert

Butterfly effect’ by FATHER$ON: oversized and glamorous, this Mazzucchelli acetate frame features silver work on the temples and silk velvet insert

“Our glasses are all handcrafted, as well as their precious decorations,” says Clarissa Oliverio, CEO and Couturier. “In addition to the insertion of velvets and silk brocades handmade with the looms from the late nineteenth century in Florence, our models boast silver jewellery applied to the frame, handcrafted by the well-known Florentine goldsmith Marco Cantini.”

FATHER$ON eyewear from Florence: model Giglio (Lily) – a bold asymmetrical design with silver jewellery details and silk fabric inlay

About the brand: FATHER$ON was founded by Clarissa Oliverio and the collection was launched for the first time at MIDO in 2022. Born and raised in Italy in the city of Como, better known as “Lake Como”, of parents who made and traded items in pure silk, Clarissa Oliverio grew up with a natural love of craftsmanship of hand-made silk items; through contact with her family’s workshop, she developed a strong passion and inclination for superior artisan creativity and historic modes of production by hand. In recent years she has dedicated herself to the creation of the FATHER$ON project, which was born as a family start-up. Working with her partner, Emanuele Dani, Florentine by birth, Clarissa has turned her artistic capabilities into a business reality that has been well received by the sector for its originality and style. She says: “Constancy and total dedication and an immeasurable passion for the creation of FATHER$ON eyewear always push us beyond the innumerable difficulties, but also towards the enormous satisfactions that an Italian start-up can encounter. We are Italians who are proud of the artistic history of their country, and we aim to create a link between truly creative design and the Italian excellence of the workmanship that passes between the expert hands of the Italian workshops and the historic ones of Florence.” Find out more: www.fathersonfirenze.com

| Eyestylist 12th May 2022

Gender-fluid frames at VAVA

Preview opti 2022

Futuristic, monochromatic and built with sustainability at the forefront of their raison d’être, the latest collection from VAVA – which shows this weekend in the ‘opti’ trade fair – proposes gender-fluid sunglass styles with impressive shapes, presented in classical black or white and a calm yet striking fresh tone of aqua ‘haze’. The architectural shapes at VAVA often explore the elimination of superfluous compositional elements and work with minimalist concepts and simplicity with astute attention on technical precision. Above: The new campaign images for VAVA are the work of André Brito, a Porto-based fashion and nude photographer. Pictured, VAVA frame in white: WL0052

VAVA WL0049: a beautifully refined ‘structured’ shape for the face in the new collection – available in European and Asian fitting, sun and optical

The Spring/Summer collection was created in the context of the brand philosophy, – named VAVA THEOREM – which supports the intertwining of the needs of humans and Planet Earth.”It fuses our principles and actions in the pursuit of equilibrium that we are committed to follow. It’s about enhancement of people, protection of the environment, respect of ethical values and promotion of culture.”

VAVA WL0052 in the new colour ‘aqua haze matte’ – the aqua tone can represent balance and stability, as well as peace, growth and energy

VAVA frames are produced in Italy with a careful, modern, and wholly studied approach to sustainable manufacture. The VAVA ideology is to offer a high-quality product that embodies the experience, knowledge and art of the great masters of handmade eyewear. According to the brand, this knowledge is gradually being lost as we live in an era when mass-production flourishes and the use of low-quality materials dominates. VAVA seeks to foster a dialogue between craftsmanship and high-tech solutions.

The core concept of the brand is also closely linked to the “post-industrial” society in which we live. VAVA plays around with people’s imagination and “science fiction”. The creators are inspired by futuristic unisex characters, who have helped to create the minimal silhouette and monochromatic concepts. This unisex philosophy and minimalistic aesthetic – which VAVA believes is the future – are naturally interwoven into the brand DNA. VAVA will exhibit this weekend (13th to 15th May 2022) at the trade fair opti in Munich. Find out more at https://vavaeyewear.com

| Eyestylist 11th May 2022

Blackfin sunglasses

Exclusive single block titanium collection

Blackfin’s Spring/Summer 2022 sunglasses collection is created in titanium, the brand’s core material, processed to have ultra-thin constructions in any kind of structure or trendsetting oversized dimensions. With a mix of classic and modern designs, the frames are produced in bespoke signature colours, and are characterised by thin ergonomic temples and gradient or solid-colour sun lenses. Above: Zen features a sculpted design on generously proportioned frames. The high, rounded bridge softens the shape of this frame; its look is accentuated by the shaping near the nose pads that creates a colour contrast with a bas relief effect

Eagle Head: an angular navigator shape

The bold Eagle Head model has an aura of strength, reliability and masculinity. An eye-catching feature is the contrasting two-tone detail on the front that alternates polished and matte finishes. The frame is also offered in the exclusive Black Edition version in black with a Nano-Plating™ Champagne Light Gold front.

Pebble Beach: a two-tone rim design adds an elegant finish to the front design

The classic double-bridge style Pebble Beach has the same two-tone rim in a panto frame with soft profiles. The dark toned lenses are sophisticated and combine with refinement with the tones of the titanium frame.

All Blackfin sun styles are made from a single block of titanium and are hypoallergenic, ultralight and durable. The flexible adjustable temples, like the nose pads in medical grade PVC, ensure a perfect fit on all types of faces. Blackfin will exhibit at the German trade fair opti 2022. www.blackfin.eu

| Eyestylist 9th May 2022

Silent Noise by Fleye Copenhagen: an expressive journey of discovery

14 new styles to show at opti munich

Fleye Copenhagen’s Silent Noise collection includes 4 acetate frames in stylish colours with links to Asta Nielsen and the movie posters in which she featured. Silent Noise is a line that pays homage to the silent movie actress, with an expressive and edgy style and a special “joie de vivre”. Additionally the line offers 7 new carbon/wood frames that take extravagance and coolness to a whole new level and three beta-titanium frames with subtle details and expressive colours. Above: the models Stella and Peter in the Silent Noise Collection

Stella by Fleye Copenhagen

Model Stella is an almond shape with a modern appeal, created in a wonderful carbon wood combination enhanced by lightweight titanium temples. The deep blue wood coloration with shiny light blue temples has an air of lightness and summery chic while a classic black answers a desire for classical timeless design.

Peter by Fleye Copenhagen

The man’s style Peter is made in the same carbon wood and titanium combination with dark blue wood front and a masculine matt dark blue temple tone. Other colours available include carbon pattern and black wood.

Fleye Copenhagen will exhibit at opti munich this weekend. Find details about the brand at www.fleyecopenhagen.com