Eyestylist

| Eyestylist 28th October 2019

UK: luxury eyewear at Clarke & Roskrow

The pretty town of Market Harborough has become home to one of England’s most beautifully restored optical boutiques in an historic 3-story townhouse. Statement colours, extraordinary attention to design details, the reintroduction of heritage features and a warm and elegant atmosphere: the renovation and refurbishment of Clarke & Roskrow took nearly 16 months from start to finish, and resulted in a stylish contemporary practice that rivals some of the UK’s most successful contemporary optical retail spaces.

An optician’s since 1974, Clarke & Roskrow, which the Clarke family bought in 2014, had an old-fashioned appearance, despite the historic building in which it was located. Anthony Clarke remembers his first ideas on how to develop it and create something quite new. “The practice was tired and the building was being under utilised, operating from two rooms on the ground floor.  I had an idea in my mind of how it could be transformed; something akin to a small, luxury boutique hotel, full of “period features” but with a modern and slightly quirky twist over several floors.  I wanted the new space to take inspiration from its heritage whilst simultaneously giving a clear indication of our new forward-thinking path.”

A contemporary colour scheme, inspired by the past

“I had to “think out of the box” to get 93feet interested in our project,” he says, on finding the right partners for the work, often a particularly challenging stage in a project of this scale. “I sent them a video of me and the interior, recorded on my iphone.  The next day I got a call from their designer Jim Butterell. The rest, as they say, is history!”

The restoration project and rebranding took place simultaneously. “For the building work, we approached several local building/construction firms. James Barby of Rockingham Construction had the “can-do” attitude and proven track-record of high-end finishes that we were looking for. 93feet understood what we were trying to achieve with the interior of the building and our “brand identity”, whilst Rockingham Construction were able to bring the design element to life, remaining true to the original design brief.”

A welcoming entrance hall at Clarke & Roskrow

The rooms are painted in bold yet warm heritage-inspired tones and feature an array of restored fittings from fireplaces to Victorian style ceiling coving, picture rails and authentic reclaimed wooden flooring. Contemporary Danish furniture is mixed with custom built pieces, designed and made by 93. Some eye-catching light fittings and works of art create an added finesse to each room where the luxury eyewear is displayed for customers to try on.

A relaxed and sunny space where customers can discuss styles and colours

“I wanted an environment that gave clients an experience, something memorable and quite different from a traditional optician’s. I am very pleased about the response that we have had from clients, the overwhelming majority of whom are thrilled with the transformation; of course I’m also delighted that our project won the Federation of Master Builders Award (Commercial Project, Midlands – June 2019).”

Today, focus is placed on exceptional eye care and a handpicked selection of independent eyewear brands, mixing well-known names with emerging labels. The selection this season includes LINDBERG, Maui Jim, Anne+Valentin, Leisure Society and the iconic eyewear collection from l.a. Eyeworks. Anthony Clarke takes the view that his clients deserve the very best choice in interesting, colourful independent frames, right on their doorstep.

Elegant fittings and vintage-inspired lighting

“If you want to sell beautiful and luxurious eyewear whether in a large city or small market town, you have to have an environment that reflects that,” says the owner. “The general public tend to assume that you’re a competent clinician, but we’re also judged on the quality of the products that we sell and increasingly, the experience that goes with it.”

18 Church Street, Market Harborough, LE16 7AA – For further information about the independent eyewear specialists Clarke & Roskrow visit www.clarkeandroskrow.co.uk Photography by Adam Fairclough. CN

| Eyestylist 25th October 2019

Fabienne Delvigne, Royal Milliner

“Sublimating through difference”

Celebrating the 30th anniversary of her eponymous label, a new book is launched following the unique and fascinating journey of Fabienne Delvigne, Belgian entrepreneur and milliner. The book recounts the designer’s story and many commissions for members of the royal families of Belgium, Sweden and the Netherlands, professional women, or men “with a sense of style”.

La Petite Robe Noire – Paris

“All my clients have in common a love of beauty,” says Delvigne, whose extraordinary designs are produced according to superior traditional craftsmanship in the Maison’s Brussels boudoir workshop. The creativity and modernity with which they are carefully brought to life mean that they always remain a source of surprise.

“Fabienne is a daring woman who has more than one string to her bow and who has put her fiery lust for living at the service of her art. Fabienne is a true magician!” Diane Von Fürstenberg

Daytona hat – Square

The book itself – with outstanding forwards by Diane von Fürstenberg and Stéphane Bern, tells of the designer’s many bespoke commissions and one-off projects for Royalty. It also explains more unexpected work that Delvigne has accomplished  outside millinery, including a stand design for the Biennale Interieur in Kortrijk for the Carrières du Hainaut©, the largest producer of limestone in Europe. For further details about the new book which is published by Marot S.A. Bruxelles in November 2019 (for £59.99 euros) visit the e shop at www.fabiennedelvigne.be/eshop/sublimer-par-la-difference/?lang=en. For more information on the designer visit www.fabiennedelvigne.be CN

| Eyestylist 23rd October 2019

Fairplay by Lafont Paris – Reedition

The Reedition collection by Lafont Paris has special significance this year as the historic Parisian eyewear company  celebrates 40 years of artistic eyewear, design and colour. Since 1923, when Louis Lafont opened the first Lafont boutique in the French capital, Lafont Paris has produced classically chic eyewear designs conceived with artistic flair and passion for heritage, achievable through a combination of state-of-the-art manufacturing and traditional French craftsmanship.

Over the years the Reedition collection has highlighted some of the quintessentially iconic designs of each decade at Lafont. Fairplay, a new addition launched last month, is a reminder of the company’s expertise in metal, where classical design meets advanced technical precision and modern detailing.

A refined finish at LAFONT PARIS

A narrow metal structure with a square eyeshape, the frame expresses the meticulous refinement of the Lafont finish with a distinguished upper rim shaping and narrow temples integrating a small hinge mechanism with absolute precision.

Today Lafont Paris produces frames in acetate, stainless steel and titanium and is well-known for its expertise in fabric inlays and advanced applications in materials which include carbon fibre. Find more designs at www.lafontparis.com CN

| Eyestylist 21st October 2019

Trends: black beauties

It really never went away. But with the resurgence in influences from the 1980s, 90s + 00s, a return of punk, grunge and gothic nuances, and the reemergence of specific iconic items from those decades including the classic black Dr Martens first created in the 1960s, consistently returning as a style piece, black eyewear is on cue to do particularly well in the next weeks and months, in many forms and with the quirkier of statements.

Part and parcel of the genre are the 1990s inspired narrow retro mask sunglasses, much hyped but always evolving thanks to some of the most creative designers in the eyewear business. Above: 90s style reimagined by Factory 900, Japan: model FA-380. Made in Fukui. For details: www.factory900.jp

A monochrome statement – restyling the cat’s eye: Saturn by Essedue, Italy

At Italian artisan label Essedue the inspiration is on the 80s with a nod to David Bowie and a chic “on point” style. Model Saturn, from the PRIMA line, has a strong round lens shape with pointed outer line in black, underscored with a white lower rim. Find out more at https://www.esseduesunglasses.com/product/saturn/

Mykita x Maison Margiela MMRAW016

Made of unpolished acetate, model MMRAW016 – in the Mykita x Maison Margiela collection comes in a Raw Black Havana with Black – illustrating that all types of finish and coloration based on black make up part of the season’s new looks. The panto-shaped optical frame with a raised bar highlights visible traces of the milling process, making each model slightly different from another. For more information: www.mykita.com

We have selected a few examples of the black styles now available for A/W 19/00. For more inspiration visit our Instagram page @eyestylistmagazine.

| Eyestylist 18th October 2019

Exclusive: Lien Atelier jewellery chains

At an impromptu meet in Paris, surrounded by luxury chain designs, more akin to jewellery than most collections we’ve come across, film director Jenny Suen tells me she found her first vintage eyewear chain at a flea market in Paris. She has worn it ever since as part of her signature look. “Over the years, so many people asked me where they could buy one,” she explains. “It occurred to me that there were no chains produced in fine materials or designed with the modern woman in mind. So when I finished my last movie, I decided to create my own.” Above: model wearing Coco (18K gold plated with freshwater pearls)

Launched this year, the debut collection is made with 18-carat gold and freshwater pearls, a tribute to the filmmaker’s/designer’s hometown of Hong Kong, a city known as “Pearl of the East.” Offering sleek lines evoking the city’s iconic skyscrapers, and a romantic modern feminine design, the three launch pieces are named after women for whom Suen has special admiration: Marguerite (Duras), Coco (Chanel), and Faye (Wong).

Lien Atelier chains

“Long associated with secretaries, forgetful grandmas, and stuffy librarians, Lien re- imagines the eyewear chain for the modern woman. Once a practical tool to keep optical glasses and sunglasses from the lost and found, the eyewear chain is now a statement-making piece of jewellery for visionaries who imagine, travel, and create….”

Lien Atelier is stocked at Kite Shoreditch (UK), Marc Le Bihan (France) and Kapok Sun Street (Hong Kong). The name “Lien” means “link” in French and Chinese.

About the founder: Jenny Suen is a Hong Kong director. She wrote, produced, and co-directed The White Girl with legendary cinematographer Christopher Doyle. The film stars Joe Odagiri and Angela Yuen in a tropical-noir love story set in the last fishing village of Hong Kong. It screened at festivals worldwide, including a world premiere at at the BFI London Film Festival, was nominated for a NETPAC award at the Taipei Golden Horse Film Festival, and had a special premiere at the Singapore International Film Festival, where it was lauded as an “accomplished first feature from Suen, [heralding] the coming of a new director with the potential to add truly unique offerings to the Hong Kong film canon.” Suen also produced Hong Kong Trilogy, a portrait of the city’s residents in childhood, youth, and old age, which was directed by Doyle. It premiered at the Toronto International Film Festival in 2015. Her next film will be a widely-anticipated Chinese remake of Vera Chytilova’s 1968 Czech New Wave masterpiece Daisies. For more details visit www.lienatelier.com CN