Eyestylist

  | Eyestylist 28th March 2017

Bonnie by a-morir

A beautiful new release by “New York designer, artist, costumier and professional bedazzler” Kerin Rose Gold, who we have followed through every season since we first launched Eyestylist.com.

a-morir’s A/W 2017 collection reexplores decorative arts with exclusive jewellery settings, dreamy floral flourishes, sparkling coloured Swarovski gems and intricate gold filigree – interpreted with love and the expertise of a young female designer who continues to produce her original, audacious designs with dedication to handcrafting and bespoke finishings inspired by vintage frames from the early 20th century.

Model Bonnie is one of several examples, striking for the asymmetrical flourish of gold detail with pearl settings that make a statement focal point on the classic tortoise front. Added to this, three little inset pearls at each side take the luxury story one step further. See more decorative eyewear from Kerin Rose Gold at www.a-morir.com CN

  | Eyestylist 26th March 2017

The Karmoie Culture – Kirsten & Lars Iverson

The Norwegian independent brand Karmoie derives its name from the Sanskrit word karma meaning “action” or “deed” and the French word joie for “joy”. With this stimulating philosophy, Kirsten and Lars created the company in 2013 with their concept of excellence, integrity and quality. Karmoie was awarded The Butterfly Mark by Positive Luxury, for the brand’s commitment to protect the planet’s resources. They share their perspective with Eyestylist.

Please tell us about how Karmoie was created. “We knew that we wanted to create a business that reflects our values and our personalities. Social commitment and creating a product that feels as good as it looks was at the core. The idea of doing that within the industry came to us as we were driving around in the South of France. It was one of those moments where everything just felt right. We knew we had a lot of research to do and an industry we knew nothing about to figure out, but we just had to go for it.”

Your designs are streamlined and pure – how do you develop your concepts? “We don’t really launch extensive new collections every season; rather we add on a couple of styles so our collection is always made up of both models from the first years and a few new releases. Whenever we develop a new model we make sure that it fits in with the rest of our frames, and that the colour palette remains cohesive.”

Karmoie Star in Black

What inspires you – nature, architecture, colours – when you are creating frames? “We are inspired by everything that surrounds us. Our friends and family, their style and requests give us ideas. While fashion is always inspiring, the pace of fast fashion is so stressful, so we seek more towards architecture and interior design, as that feels more built to last. When it comes to colours, we believe that nature is flattering on everyone, so our colour palette and patterns are based on soft, natural shades.”

Karmoie Nucleus in Kelp
Karmoie Nucleus in Kelp

How did your partnership with Eyejusters come about? “We had seen a segment on The Colbert Report about social innovation that featured adjustable glasses. Since we are not opticians or optometrists ourselves, the way Eyejusters work, allowing anyone to participate in distributing glasses, really resonated with us. With more than 700 million people worldwide without access to refractive care, it is great to be able to recruit anyone who wants to participate in helping. It also makes it possible to reach out to very remote areas that are hard to access with trained personnel and advanced equipment.”

Karmoie Rise in Twig

Karmoie is now entering its fifth year – what is the most rewarding aspect of your work? “We love hearing feedback from our customers and from our donation projects. Seeing people wear and enjoy our eyewear validates all the effort we put into creating them. Hearing from our donation partners and following the important work that they do in the field gives us hope and motivation.”

Any additional insights you would like to enumerate about Karmoie? “We believe that every positive action has a positive impact. We created a brand that is mindful of the importance in all the big and small choices we make on our way to the final product. For this we have been awarded the Positive Luxury Butterfly Mark. Awareness is spreading and we are proud to be part of it.” www.karmoie.com JG

  | Eyestylist 24th March 2017

Arthur Arbesser for Silhouette

Fashion designer Arthur Arbesser has created stunning sunglasses for Silhouette that stylishly compliment his relaxed, easy-going clothing collection. Crafted in Silhouette’s unique mix of SPX and high-tech titanium, the frames are extremely lightweight and minimalist. The sunglasses also feature lens-in-lens technology that enables the frames to be worn as both optical and sunglasses. Arbesser has a broad perspective on fashion – he was born and raised in Vienna; studied at Central Saint Martins College for Art and Design in London; and is now based in Milan, where he is acclaimed as one of fashion’s most up and coming young designers. www.silhouette. com www.arthurarbesser.com JG

  | Eyestylist 24th March 2017

Mondelliani flagship, Rome

Mondelliani glasses, selected independent brands (Hoet and Theo) and bijoux accessories. The curated collections by the Mondello family have a new design home in Via dei Prefetti, an historic street with an abundance of chic stores located in the Campo Marzio neighbourhood.

The minimal interior, balancing bright colour and elegant white displays was designed by Claudia Campone of Studio THiRTYONE in Rome. An area for eye tesing has also been included as part of the project – allowing the team to offer state-of-the-art eycare as well as beautiful accessories.

Accessory display, Mondelliani shop

Following the opening in December 2016, Rosaria Mondello commented: “Eyewear is the accessory that speaks about who we are, more than any other. If you wear black and choose a red frame, for me, you are all about “red”. If you wear a “statement” frame, such as a heavy rimmed black design, you need to be able to carry it off, with grit and a strong character, otherwise you will look like a member of the Beagle Boys. What gives us great satisfaction is finding the right frame for each person: this requires sensitivity, taste and attention to detail”.

Via dei Prefetti 11, Rome. Other stores are located in via del Bergamaschi and via dell’Oca, Rome. www.mondelliani.it CN

  | Eyestylist 23rd March 2017

Die Brillenmesse Köln – input and new collections

May launches with a merry start as the Die Brillenmesse independent eyewear show takes place in Cologne. The Rhine City event is held in the spacious surroundings of Dock One, and features independent eyewear designer flair. Nathanaël Wenger Co-director of the show (above with co-director Steffen Keil) gives an exclusive interview to Eyestylist about the forthcoming show.

Elizabeth von Guttman – founder of System Magazine – wears elegant rimless from The Collection Götti Perspective

Could you please share with us the development of Die Brillenmesse Köln? “We are on track with Cologne with around 30 exhibitors so far, and quite a few more in the pipeline. With the business uncertainty, some smaller companies are reducing their marketing costs this year. Cologne is still new and we think and believe that Cologne is a perfect place for our show.”

Who are some of the exhibitors in Köln this year? “There is interesting brand variety that includes Adrian Marwitz; Andy Wolf; Götti Switzerland; Anne et Valentin; Baars Eyewear; Blackfin; Coblens; Götti Switzerland; Lunor; Orgreen Optics; Joel Lesca Optique; Kerl; Miamai; Masunaga, Markus T.; Martin & Martin; Robert la Roche and TD Tom Davis Ltd. to mention just a few.”

Universus 3 in Loving Grey by Adrian Marwitz

Die Brillenmesse is a great supporter of independent labels. Nowadays, as eyewear is evolving rapidly for both the industry and the consumer, what challenges do independent creators face? “First there is a great uncertainty in the market due to the global crisis (Trump, Turkey, Brexit etc.), the future of online, clients changing behaviour (higher demands, price sensitiveness, information level…) and big pressures on Retail in general. So it is not easy to find a clear direction in these turbulences. We try to give some direction by supporting independent labels, design and innovation, but also Newcomers. Nowadays, it is even more important to find new ways of doing business and being different from the mass-market. This is our mission, and we can see that it works with many independent opticians in Switzerland. I think it is important that opticians focus on their strengths – which is personal contact, artisanship, good advice, innovation and high-end quality.”

MIAMAI sunglasses in Ocean

Please tell us about the Think Tank sessions that are part of the Die Brillenmesse Programme.“The response to the Think Tank sessions was positive and we will feature similar subjects as in Stuttgart. This will include how to reach new clients, digital change, and technical innovations. Again, the aim is to give the independent opticians some input and inspiration on how they can keep direction in a rough sea. We are also delighted that two Vintage collectors – Christian Metzler and Alexander Dosiehn will show their Vintage Collections in Köln with amazing beauties!”

Orgreen’s Chromatic Ecstatic Collection will be featured at Die Brillenmesse Köln

Mark you calendars now! Saturday and Sunday 6th and 7th May at Dock One in Cologne for Die Brillenmesse Köln 2017. Further info at www.diebrillenmesse.de JG