Eyestylist

ic! berlin x Tomaszewski

10th February 2015

Rule-breakers collaborate in Berlin

10th February 2015 Eyewear shapes have taken a new turn, with rules being broken and unexpected silhouettes appearing in the mix. One example of this avantgarde direction comes from German eyewear label ic! berlin and Polish born designer Dawid Tomaszewski, who have joined forces to create a collection of alternative sunglasses with striking lens/frame colour combinations. Above: Dawid Tomaszewski collections A/W 15/16 @ Berlin Fashion Week, Kronprinzenpalais.

Malgorzata by ic! berlin x Dawid Tomaszewski

Chic and feminine, the three designs in the special edition are inspired by influential women from Tomaszewski’s life, representing the past, the future and the here-and-now.

FW15 Dawid Tomaszewski Berlin Fashion Week

Katarzyna in rose gold — Katarzyna by ic! berlin x Tomaszewski

Premiered at Berlin Fashion Week for the FW15 Tomaszewski show, models Lucja, Katarzyna and Małgorzata – come in rosé gold with pale graduated blue lenses and classic black with a soft purple/green gradient lens.

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Dawid Tomaszewski is a contemporary, luxury womenswear brand based in Berlin. His clothes are experimental with an innovative design edge, using industrial and unconventional materials combined with inventive cutting, uncompromising tailoring and avant-garde flair. www.studio-tomaszewski.com www.ic-berlin.de CN

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Show Time!

6th February 2015

7th February 2015 100% Optical opens at ExCel London today with international designers presenting their latest collections, including Austria’s Silhouette, with their elegant, ultra-light Titan Contour frames (above style 5410). www.silhouette.com

Carter Bond from Australia is ready for summer with sleek sunglasses in gold with gold lenses. With its distinctive round shape, curved nose piece and fine lenses, you are ready for the sunshine! www.carterbond.com

Bold and Innovative - Lawrence by LGR — Bold and Innovative – Lawrence by L.G.R.

Luca Gnecchi Ruscone at L.G.R. in Rome has a fabulous new collection – Eyestylist was fortunate to have a preview – and includes Lawrence (above). Crafted in metal alloy, with flat red tempered mineral glass mirrored lenses, these frames are totally knockout – and a must-see at 100% Optical! www.lgrworld.com JG

100% Optical continues through Monday 9th February at London ExCel www.100percentoptical.com

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Destination: London

4th February 2015

Spotlight on British and International Brands at 100% Optical

4th February 2015 Anticipation is mounting as 100% Optical opens in just a few days. British and international artisan labels will present their collections of optical and sunglass designs at the event taking place at ExCel London. Claire Goldsmith will show her elegant Claire Goldsmith Eyewear optical collection that includes Cole (above) in Tortoiseshell and blue. Claire commented: “This is our first time exhibiting at 100% Optical, and we are excited to be involved in a show on our home turf!” www.olivergoldsmith.com

Louis from the Solarium Collection by Kirk @ Kirk — Louis from the Solarium Collection by Kirk & Kirk

British brand Kirk & Kirk’s new collections – Vivarium and Solarium – offer beautiful designs in Italian acrylic with fine details. Louis (above) from Solarium is a bold, strong shape with an elegantly handcrafted horse head in sterling silver and gold on the temples. www.kirkandkirk.com

Babar in Natural Horn by Götti Switzerland

Sven Götti at Götti Switzerland is looking forward to 100% Optical. “We took part as one of the first international brands, and we thought it was terrific. The fair is very well planned, and we believe in the growth of this show.” Götti will present their new collection – Handcrafted genuine horn. Babar makes a strong masculine statement, with straight edges and rounded corners, the frame expresses harmony and elegance. www.gotti.ch

Cleveland by Coppe and Sid — Cleveland by Coppe & Sid

Cosmopolitan in outlook and handmade in Italy, Coppe & Sid’s collection of optical and sunglass frames unite retro and modern concepts. Cleveland (above) is a sleek look in tortoiseshell and black – très chic! www.eyedesignclub.com

100% Optical takes place from 7-9th February at ExCel London. See the complete list of international exhibitors at www.100percentoptical.com JG

Boutiques

Leidmann, Maximilianstrasse

1st February 2015

Munich

“Who cares about brands? Care about eyewear.” Leidmann

After several visits to Munich, Eyestylist was delighted to visit the Leidmann boutique last month. Directed by Philipp Foret, this Leidmann location is a much talked about eyewear haven that opened on Maximilanstrasse in 2013, the third optical outlet created by Munich optician Chris Leidmann – and one to go out of your way for if you are in this part of the world.

Designed by local architects Kirsten Scholz and Stephanie Thatenhorst, the spacious interior combines a modern, international setting for fine eyewear with the atmosphere of a charming artisan eyewear factory. Showcasing elegant natural materials – untreated oak and leather, alongside concrete and steel, the effect is dramatic and elegant and perfectly in tune with Philipp Foret’s observation that natural artisan eyewear has carved a niche for itself at the luxury end of the market and, that in Germany, it has a particularly enthusiastic and established following.

Leidmann, Munich — Leidmann, workshop detail

Featured collections for 2015 at this branch of Leidmann include first-class brands Hapter, Barton Perreira, Thom Browne, REIZ, Ralph Vaessen, Eyevan and Onono. A buffalo horn house label – Foret Leidmann has also been created especially for the store. Each and every label is beautifully arranged in hidden drawers in the wall, -(we opened a drawer ourselves to find a stunning display of Italian Hapter designs) and on minimal wood shelving where individual designs are highlighted under dramatic state-of-the-art lighting.

When a finished frame is ready for collection, a special presentation awaits every new owner: the frame is arranged in a striking display in a huge wood-clad island at the centre of the store, a touch that underlines the value and quality of each design and the appreciation the owners have for the finest design, quality and materials – in both eyewear and lens choices.

Leidmann, Maximilianstraße 11-15, 80539 Munich. www.leidmann.de CN

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Kirk & Kirk

1st February 2015

Three generations of eyewear DNA flow creatively through Jason Kirk’s genes. His ancestors were optical pioneers who opened workshops in London in 1919. Nowadays, Jason and Karen Kirk continue the optical heritage with their recently launched Vivarium and Solarium collections.

Did you have a particular style/fashion concept in mind when you decided to launch Kirk & Kirk? “Our goal is to create frames that are unique, and, at the same time, wearable. We serve two types of customer: the retailer (optician, department store, fashion boutique) and the consumer. We need to understand the needs of the optician and the desires of the consumer. Twenty years experience has shown us that our end wearer is independent, and will not be told what to wear. We need to excite them, to make them feel an affinity with us, and to show that we understand their taste, in order to gain their confidence and loyalty.”

HARPER by Kirk & Kirk from the Vivarium Collection — Harper by Kirk & Kirk from the Vivarium Collection

Kirk and Kirk has made an important style statement using Italian acrylic for frames. Is this a material in which you will continue to create frames – plus using other materials? “We spent many years working with our acrylic manufacturer to create the correct specific grade of material. Then with the frame manufacturer to establish how to hand-make glasses using this material…and then with the opticians showing them the benefits of using acrylic. We are not tied to using acrylic, but it is very much our signature, and it offers a beautiful range of colours and textures that allow us to differentiate ourselves from other designers, and allow independent opticians to differentiate themselves from their competitors. The frames are incredibly light and comfortable, so they are a pleasure to wear.”

Do you have particular inspirations for creating the collections? “Inspiration can come from anywhere, and for Vivarium we were inspired by Victorian scientists and their relationship with nature. Colour plays a major role in our design process, and the relationship between colours. Different colours have various meanings to different cultures which we find fascinating. It is often the unseen connections which ignite our passion – ‘what emotions do colours create’? for example.”

Grace from the Kirk & Kirk Solarium Collection

You have been in the eyewear business for many years. What do you feel have been the biggest changes – and what are future trends? “We started in optics in the early 1990’s, originally producing our frames in the UK, even owning our own factory at one point. But this is no longer an option and we moved all of our production to France in 2002 where it has stayed. European production has been under enormous pressure in the last fifteen years, and Asian production has developed dramatically. This is neither a good nor a bad thing, it is just a reality. The last seven years or so have seen economic pressure weigh heavily on decisions made within our industry, but notably by the opticians. We are a profession that is slow to embrace change, as illustrated by lack of availability of high end, independent frames on the internet.”

SPENCER from the Vivarium collection by Kirk & Kirk — Spencer from the Vivarium collection by Kirk & Kirk

Could you please describe some of the challenges faced creating a new collection today – versus twenty years ago? “First and most obviously, it is a very expensive process to create a collection. It always has been, but today it is not just about the frames themselves, but the whole branding, marketing and general presence that is essential to compete in a crowded market. How do you create a collection that is different, but wearable in a market that is quickly saturated, and where the ability to copy quickly and effectively is such a threat? We have been fortunate in that our clients and industry colleagues have been extremely loyal to us, and have appreciated Kirk & Kirk’s collections. We are very grateful for that support. There are very few truly independent eyewear designers, and relatively few independent eyewear boutiques. We need to work together and to support each other if our businesses are to flourish.” www.kirkandkirk.com JG

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