Eyestylist

Despite economic challenges around the world, the Silmo eyewear experience of 2024 felt optimistic, creative and full of energy, with a huge mash up of design innovations, tech ideas and start-ups and small artisan collections showing alongside iconic and well-established luxury and fashion eyewear brands 

A remarkable level of fine-tuning of the details in the luxury collections. A positively energetic and experimental buzz from young and new designers from different sides of the globe. And a particularly strong representation of tech companies and smart glasses products. These were just some of the notable areas which were highlighted at the Silmo 2024 event.

During the next months we will explore particular colour stories, innovations and new design directions we observed at the Paris show. Overall, the event was hugely popular amongst those who exhibited and those attending, thanks to the ever evolving breadth of design, craft expertise, material innovation and technology relating to eyewear on show there, alongside the incredible experiences and business opportunities for the industry’s leading and emerging designers to connect with influential buyers from around the world, collaborating to shape the future. Above: The Italian designer Cleto Munari showed his eponymous eyewear collection at Silmo for the second time – pictured, Ave Del Paraiso, produced from a 14mm thick acetate plate, the frame is created using two techniques for carving the material. The new releases on the Cleto Munari stand also included ‘Drop Drop Drop’, an acetate capsule with bold colours and 3-dimensional shapes featuring models Victor and Ernest and a handmade precious metal collection with exquisite signature details and jewellery embellishments.

Many new models were released in the collection at Lafont Paris at Silmo: as well as a second edition frame produced in collaboration with Maison Sekimoto – named “Hanabi”, Lafont Paris also won a Silmo D’Or in the Children’s category, for a frame called Roudoudou, designed specifically for premature infants. The frame has been developed to meet the optical and morphological needs of this group and offers a bespoke size and geometry.

The Lafont Paris collection also saw the addition of frames which served up gorgeous colour palettes, fresh gradients and a wide selection of vintage and modern inspiration for silhouettes, material combinations and exclusive details. www.lafont.com

l.a. Eyeworks showed a new collection popping with colour, vintage flavours and design energy. They described the temple seen here on their model Duffle as an extravagant nod to l.a.Eyeworks’ signature frog toe temple tip. The custom inlay appears on a variety of models in a contrast colour to the main frame. Model Duffle – in acetate with stainless steel temples – is one of those designs, like sister frame Totes – that feels chunky and out there for the season whilst being suitably balanced, lightweight and comfortable for all-day-long wear – the designer, Gai Gherardi was wearing it herself! The collection also featured faceted acetate designs with gorgeous gradient tones with eccentric names such as “bambi” and “rosewater brownie”. www.laeyeworks.com

Even Realities showed their smart glasses concept at Silmo 2024 for the first time. The brand has recently launched the G1 Digital Glasses which integrate advanced digital features into everyday frames designed to fit the face and feel comfortable and easy on the face. With the G1, they aimed to bridge the gap between smart glasses that are bulky and over-featured and AI companions that lack practical functionality for everyday use. We trialled the product and felt excited both by the ease of the functionality and the opportunities it will open in many different work places and specific activities. Find out more in our feature prior to Silmo: https://www.eyestylist.com/2024/07/smart-glasses-even-realities-and-g1-digital-panto-glasses/

MOVITRA continues to deliver high-tech luxury in a collection that takes the combination of quality, comfort and design excellence in each product very seriously. The new collection which features Apex, a cutting-edge series in titanium, is particularly eye-catching for the technical details developed in each product and the unerring attention to detail, from the Motus patented closing system to small design features such as a two-piece titanium bridge with a polished and brushed finish. www.movitra.it

In the start-up area, we were able to talk to the creatives at several emerging and new eyewear brands including Rewind (Italy – www.rewindeyewear.com), Otro Eyewear (Brazil – www.otro.com.br), Maggio Eyewear (France – www.maggiojulia.com), Maison Lune (France – https://www.maison-lune.fr) and BookArt (New York/Japan – https://bookartjewelry-int.com). All these examples show a dedication to quality craftsmanship and design individuality and we were taken by their use of colour and enthusiasm for expressive and individualistic design work.

We met Yuki Gotanda, the designer behind BookArt, the Japanese brand producing their jewellery oriented frames in Sabae (Japan). Each glass crystal teardrop is hand-set with the same precision as a diamond. Gotanda is a former graphic designer and launched BookArt in 2017. BookArt also showed us the frame called Fringe which features elegant gold chain tassels on the end tips.

The international optics and eyewear trade fair, Silmo Paris will take place from 26th to 29th September in 2025. Find more trends information and brand highlights from the show on Eyestylist in the weeks ahead! www.silmoparis.com

This feature was written by Clodagh Norton at Eyestylist.com. Copyright applies.