A new collection of chunky vintage-inspired frames has just been launched by Ray-Ban. The line includes wayfarer shapes and this modified cat’s-eye, Ray-Ban 5281. Classic and more eccentric colours are proposed. I like the brown on opaline brown and the Havana, a colour choice that never seems to go out of fashion and always adds a vintage flavour. Ray-Ban is celebrating 75 years this year, quite something! www.ray-ban.com
Robert Marc is using elegant vintage acetate in some of his styles, a trend that has been taken up by a few eyewear companies this year. This model for men features a vintage crystal front with olive havana temples. The 50s look vintage crystal has a warm translucence and combines seamlessly with the darker temple contrast. The latest collection by Robert Marc which I viewed during Mido also includes these colour combinations using vintage acetate which we see as on-trend for guys this year. The temple is the classic signature Robert Marc design, for an additional contemporary twist. Available in selected opticians in Europe including in the UK, Icon the Opticians, Isis and Viren Jani. CN www.robertmarc.com
Produced at Algha Works in the UK, a traditional factory known for its small-scale quality production, the Harry-Potteresque model Warwick is typical of the Savile Row Collection. Focusing on old-school retro shapes, such as the classic round-eye and panto shapes as well as the rarer octagonal and petite oval, the frames are made from 18% nickel silver, around which a skin of 14Kt gold is bonded to create an incredible rolled gold finish. Described as undergoing 130 different operations, including machine and hand tooling for the final result, these are frames for connoisseurs, and much to our excitement, show that England is very much on the map again when it comes to traditional spectacle-making. www.algha.com CN
1st April 2012 She radiates the Swedish image – tall, blond, beautiful and talented. Anna-Karin Karlsson is a relative newcomer on the eyewear scene, and in a short period of time, her amazing frames have received international acclaim. We meet at Tranoï, where Anna-Karin is presenting her collection, and she graciously shares her approach to eyewear. “My designs are inspired by beauty and love. My sister will always be an influence on my work, but for my next collection, my great-great grandmother’s art will be part of the designs. The women in my family were real pioneers, and it’s important for me to carry on with that philosophy. I like things graphic and strong – I need to make a story, and it has to have meaning. People want things with a heart – with thought and depth – and I want my designs to live a beautiful, romantic life.
“I know this sounds bizarre, but I’ve actually slept with my acetates, so I can get the feel of them. I don’t like to feel limited, so I dream about what I will do. I work at the pace of five people, and I don’t look at other people’s designs. I have many new ideas, but they are not yet formulated.” When Anna-Karin’s frames arrived at Les Plus Belles Lunettes in Paris, they sold out in a week. Milan, Beverly Hills, and London are also among the stock lists. Music stars love her frames, and Anna-Karin says: “I love the spirit of those girls – girls with dancing hearts. I strive to find beauty, and let it be, let it be. I don’t do trends for people who are scared or don’t know better. I want the designs to live for a long time, not to be disposable, and to make dreams come true!” www.annakarinkarlsson.com JG
1st April 2012 Valerie Steele is the acclaimed Director and Chief Curator at The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City. For over twenty-five years, she has orchestrated stunning and memorable exhibitions at the Institute, as well as authored fourteen books. She is also a fan of Vintage. “I’ve worn glasses since I was eight years old, and my frames are handmade in France for Selima Optique. All my reading glasses are cat’s eye, which I think looks good on my face. I have two pairs of “Jessie” glasses, one in tortoiseshell, and the other in leopard tortoiseshell, and one pair of tortoiseshell sunglasses – all from Selima Optique. Obviously I like tortoiseshell patterns, but mine are NOT real tortoise, they are plastic. When I was 15-25 years old, I wore contact lenses, but now I love my glasses. I’m just glad I can SEE! For my personal clothing style – I am a fashion nun – in black. My favourite designers are Rick Owens, Gareth Pugh, Isabel Toledo, Ralph Rucci, Lanvin, Prada, and CDG. On weekends, I wear mostly J. Crew or Army/Navy.” www.fitnyc.edu JG