Eyestylist

  | Eyestylist 3rd April 2024

View from an expert: Kayla Heersink shares favourite moments in NYC

Kayla Heersink, the optician and eyewear aficionado behind the @optical_style account on Instagram – a curated page featuring all things creative in eyewear, visited New York City in March for Vision Expo East and LOFT NYC. During the weekend, she shared with us some personal insights and favourite discoveries among the brands from North America exhibiting at the events. Eyestylist.com presents a spectacular two-part editorial in collaboration with Kayla, with some exciting insights on what she found during her appointments in the city.  Above: Kayla wears PRESS Eyewear’s Super Bass sunglasses.

1. What was your favourite event/studio visit or showroom viewing this year in NYC?
The CFDA Pride Eyewear Initiative event is really special. In honor of Pride Month, seven CFDA eyewear brands  united to launch the 3rd annual edCFDA Pride Eyewear Initiative. The designers of Blake Kuwahara Eyewear, Christian Roth Eyewear, l.a.Eyeworks, PRESS, Barton Perreira, Selima Optique, and KREWE, will each offer a limited edition sunglass design, with a portion of proceeds collectively benefiting Bring Change to Mind.

edCFDA Collective – PRIDE Limited Edition sunglasses for 2024

Established in 2022, the edCFDA Pride Eyewear Initiative is an annual charitable venture driven by eyewear designers of the CFDA to target and highlight specific needs within the broad spectrum of the LGBTQ+ and gender non-conforming community. With donations to LGBTQ+ causes totaling more than $100,000 in its first two years, an expansion from five to seven designers this season bodes well for a record-breaking year in 2024. “While it is the eyewear designers, with the CFDA’s support, who have piloted this outstanding effort, it is also a testament to the optical community – retailers and customers alike – who have embraced the importance of visibility for these causes,” notes Gai Gherardi, co-founder/designer of l.a.Eyeworks.

Proceeds from sales of the 2024 edCFDA Pride Eyewear Initiative will benefit Bring Change to Mind (BC2M) www.bringchange2mind.org, an organization dedicated to ending stigma and discrimination surrounding mental health.

VADA’s colour palette is fresh, youthful and often a little daring

2. At the shows, which were the iconic US brands you loved again for 2024 – and why?
I’m still obsessed with Vada. Designer and creative director Katie Caplener’s work draws from a deep well of ranging references, from ancient art to modern dance, neoclassicism to New Wave, and the obscurest of corners that exist in between. The VADA eyewear line that emerged from Katie’s fine jewelry background strives to create quality pieces, lasting outside of trends. VADA creates heirloom pieces to be cherished across generations.
In my opinion, this small batch eyewear brand has the best photos and storytelling. This year it’s all about Camp Vada, where you can see the influence of Katie’s southern roots. Inspired by action and adventure, Camp VADA builds its fire with an exploration of masculine energies for Collection 5. It’s little yin, big YANG, with three new styles and eight new high-octane colorways. Pitch a tent. Run a trotline. Get high on an Ozark mountain. Cannonball off the boat dock: Camp VADA is calling. A fitted ringer tee and a cigarette behind the bunkhouse. A psychotic sack race toward summertime. An acid-blotted biscuit in the duck blind. Color names like swamp, trout, and pearl snap, are complimented by “I pulled a fish from my ice hole” bumper stickers, and old school Vada trucker hat merch. Vada is somehow always simultaneously fresh and nostalgic at the same time. Like your cool older cousin, Vada knows what’s hot before you do.

VADA Eyewear: “VADA creates heirloom pieces to be cherished across generations….”

Vada has also recently released two special collaboration pieces with singer Leon Bridges. Channeling Bobby Womack, funkadelic hues, and best-dressed relative nostalgia, EARTHA and LEON are handmade in Japan with 8mm custom acetate and feature 18K gold-plated hardware. These frames feature a custom paisley-patterned core wire exclusive to this collaboration that is extraordinary. It was inspired by a scarf worn by Leon’s grandmother, Eartha.

Leon Bridges + VADA

3. Which are the most interesting emerging home-grown labels you are going to keep your eye on?
I’m really excited about the relaunch of American Optical. It is America’s oldest eyewear company, started in 1833. AO frames are being made in the same factory as State Optical, in Chicago Illinois. American Optical is bringing back the Saratoga, made famous by JFK, in addition to many of their other recognizable classics.

American Optical: an iconic US eyewear brand

The optical nerd in me got really amped seeing frames with 7 barrel hinges. The goal has been not only to bring eyewear manufacturing back to the US, but also to revive the lost vocation of the American Eyewear Artisan. YESSS!! The AO and STATE craftspeople undergo over six months of training before earning that title, working across all 75 steps of the proprietary AO and STATE manufacturing process. The pride that these 65 elite craftspeople exude can be felt in every frame.

Look out for Part 2 of this feature, which is packed with great recommendations – from @opticali_style – coming up soon! Follow @eyestylistmagazine@opticali_style on Instagram for more information about the companies that Kayla visited.

  | Eyestylist 2nd April 2024

French eyewear – Lazare Studio: resurrected classics

The French optician turned eyewear designer Alexandre Caton has created an eyewear collection that continues to stand out from the crowd

An extraordinary depth of research and inspired product development, an understanding of the finest eyewear – old and new, and a fascination with the spectacle-making traditions of Japan….Alexandre Caton has applied his knowledge and passion for eyewear design, and his experience as an optician, producing each frame and sunglass design in the Lazare Studio collection as an expression of past classics refreshed “with a contemporary touch”; after just four years, this collection is available in some of the world’s finest fashion stores such as Dover Street Market, and eyewear stores of the highest repute. Above: detail of Nada by Lazare Studio, one of the latest sunglass styles to be added into the collection

Nada by French eyewear brand Lazare Studio, a 1980s inspired sunglass style

As the designer explains, each frame is the result of two worlds coming together: on the one hand, the Japanese element and the signature parts made out of materials which have been sourced from leading Japanese manufacturers, and on the other, the savoir-faire of the French artisans of the Jura, where craftsmen and women are trained in long-established skills and new cutting-edge technology. Added to this is a careful “physiological design approach” devised by Caton with focus on balanced lines and delicate weight distribution of the product, always adapted for the ideal comfort of the frame.

Model Rothstein by Lazare Studio; a finely crafted structure with elegant detailing

Inspired by the classic shapes of the 1970s, the new model Rothstein illustrates the use of 6mm milled Japanese acetate for the frame front, and details typical of the collection: the signature rivets, metal cores and refined hinge design.

Lazare Studio has committed to an environmental and socially responsible approach to production by choosing high-end suppliers working with care and conscience and selecting long-lasting and sustainable materials. The brand’s ultimate goal is to provide “timeless eyewear, built to last”. Find our more about the frames at www.lazare.studio

  | Eyestylist 28th March 2024

Eyewear show Loft NYC 2024

Eyewear presentations, parties and press events…the 2024 edition of LOFT drew in a crowd that was bigger than ever ; the event offered a diverse showcase of independent brands from around the world, an energetic atmosphere for networking and the annual launch of the CFDA eyewear designers’ 2024 Pride Collection – all taking place at the well-known Hudson Mercantile by Manhattan’s Hudson Yards – New York City.  

The 2024 Edition of Loft NYC, the leading independent eyewear show in the Americas, took place from Thursday 14th March to Sunday 17th March, with brands exhibiting over two floors. New additions at the event this year included l.a.Eyeworks, Silhouette, CAZAL and FOLC Eyewear.

On the first day of the event, the designers Blake Kuwahara (Blake Kuwahara Eyewear), Christian Roth (Christian Roth Eyewear), Gai Gherardi & Barbara McReynolds (l.a.Eyeworks), Jeff Press (PRESS), Patty Perreira (Barton Perreira), Selima Salaun (Selima Optique) and Stirling Barrett (KREWE), gathered to show their limited edition sunglass designs as part of the edCFDA Pride Eyewear Initiative. They announced that this year, a portion of proceeds will collectively benefit Bring Change to Mind, an organization dedicated to ending stigma and discrimination surrounding mental health. Above: the CFDA eyewear designers gathered for a press event on the Thursday afternoon of LOFT, NYC – the busy event attracted designers, opticians, buyers and members of the industry and the press

l.a.Eyeworks was one of the new additions at the eyewear show LOFT  in 2024

LOFT 2024 saw multiple launches by the independent designers exhibiting, including a new collaboration line from the British brand Kirk & Kirk with Jason Bell – former professional footballer, and Nicholas Pinnock, the actor/producer; the acid house music inspired SS24 series at VAVA – in neon colours – several lines from theo including the eye-popping Mosaic styles, and ROLF’s exceedingly popular “made in Austria” Wire Collection – with models for adults and children – all produced in plant-based materials.  FOLC Eyewear from Barcelona had some eye-catching acetate sunglasses with stunning sculptural volumes.

Jason Kirk introducing the new designs by his British label, Kirk and Kirk

SALT. Optics introduced several new series including a collaboration collection with Joshua Sirlin, the Creative Director of the American Black Bear Brand. There were also new collections from RES/REI, Blake Kuwahara, Kuboraum, TAVAT, Bevel, who were celebrating their 25th anniversary, RAPP Eyewear, HENAU and more – for opticians and buyers to discover first hand.

SALT. Optics from California

Founder of LOFT, Richard Mewha has confirmed that LOFT will take place in New York City in 2025, with dates and a new even bigger venue to be confirmed soon. For more information visit https://lofteyewearshow.com

All images provided courtesy of LOFT Eyewear Show

  | Eyestylist 25th March 2024

French eyewear collab – Morel par Jean Nouvel: a fifth edition

The collaboration series sees the addition of new iconic round frames, the favoured eyewear shape of the French architect

Architects have long turned their hand to design work and products in other realms, however small in size. In Morel’s latest collaboration designs produced with the architect, Jean Nouvel, the iconic round frame shape – in a variety of materials – is the focus of the line, an expression of bold simplicity, playing with dimensionality and volume.  Above and below: 90045C “rim-to-rim” model from the Morel par Jean Nouvel collection

Morel par Jean Nouvel model 90045C – the coloured rims are visible on the inside and outside of the frame

The 90045C “rim-to-rim” model, an all-acetate frame, features two coloured circles within a transparent structure, creating a design which is minimal and yet striking. The clean crisp crystal acetate material is a tone of particular interest again this year.

Morel par Jean Nouvel 90007C is a titanium design in this collection

The two-tone coloration is further explored in the titanium models in the series. The new model 90007C features two perfectly round (or pantos) coloured eye shapes connected with a bridge and temples in a contrasting tone. Unisex and universal, the frame is offered in different colour combinations, adapting to all styles, including red with black and gold with black.

The Morel par Jean Nouvel collection is available through selected opticians worldwide. The sunglass collection is now available at the Abu Dhabi Louvre Museum in Abu Dhabi, UAE, a building designed by the architect Jean Nouvel in 2017. For more information: www.morel-france.com

  | Eyestylist 21st March 2024

Reframing the conversation – EYECONS Agency Eyewear Event, Soho Works, NYC

The evening event was arranged by Tarrence Lackran, founder and CEO of EYECONS Agency, and connected independent eyewear creatives with the world of Soho House

EYECONS Agency, headed by Tarrence Lackran, hosted an eyewear panel and product showcase event at Soho Works DUMBO (Soho House NYC) last Thursday, highlighting the work of independent designers in the business and their unique experiences for Soho House members and industry professionals, influencers and members of the press. The event marks the first time that the renowned eyewear designers have come together to speak directly to the general public about their profession and how their careers have evolved touching on many aspects of design, innovation and entrepreneurship as well as their vision for the future. Above: in conversation, from left, Anna-Karin Karlsson, Tarrence Lackran, Selima Salaun, and Coco and Breezy Dotson

Coco and Breezy relate their story in eyewear: launching at age 19, the twin sisters have built a highly-successful eyewear brand

The panel included Coco and Breezy Dotson, founders of Coco And Breezy Eyewear; Selima Salaun, founder and creative director of Selima Optique – the NYC optical emporium with four locations across the city; and Anna-Karin Karlsson, the Swedish founder of luxury eyewear brand, Anna-Karin Karlsson Eyewear. Tarrence Lackran was moderating the discussion which touched on some fascinating topics including how the designers show their culture in their eyewear designs.

Left: Selima Salaun, eyewear designer and the creative vision behind Selima Optique, pictured with Lackran

Tarrence Lackran told Eyestylist: “Celebrating innovation and style in eyewear, our recent panel event at Soho Works is part of EYECONS Agency’s ongoing commitment to bringing eyewear content to fashion enthusiasts both in and outside of the eyewear industry.

As we continue to champion creativity and craftsmanship, we’re committed to shaping the future of vision, by reframing the conversation around eyewear. We look forward to continuing these discussions with other consumer facing groups.”

Guest tries on Anna-Karin Karlsson’s Crystal Mirage. Karlsson describes her designs as her “poems dressed as eyewear”
The EYECONS Agency Eyewear event took place at Soho Works, Soho House, Dumbo, New York City –  https://www.sohohouse.com/soho-works/55-water . Photography courtesy of @jcrdan and @shotbycaitlyn. For more information about EYECONS Agency visit https://www.eyeconsagency.com
For more information about the eyewear designers featured, visit their respective websites: www.annakarinkarlsson.com / www.selimaoptique.com / www.cocoandbreezy.com