Eyestylist

  | Eyestylist 18th September 2023

Trends: Geometric frames + shapes combined

Written By Clodagh Norton – Eyestylist predicts the revival of geometric designs will continue well into 2024 / hexagons, pentagons, octagons and particularly a combination of different angular shapes are the styles to look out for going into Autumn; don’t hesitate to consider these looks in any premium material from chunky cellulose acetate to the most minimal almost weightless metal designs

For those who seek a change, angular eyewear could be where it’s at: offering something different, flattering and less commonly worn, these frame shapes are a statement choice for all eyewear enthusiasts as we head into Autumn/Winter 23/24. Above: J.F. REY will show new models at the Paris fair, SILMO: their campaign highlights the women’s styles, infused with a 70s-inspired glamour: original shapes, geometric constructions in acetate and custom graphic associations of colours form the basis of this exuberant line – www.jfrey.fr

Andy Wolf 4799 – combinations are a treat at Andy Wolf this season

Among the new proposals at Austrian label Andy Wolf, the 4799 pentagon design combines metal and acetate to create a playful statement for the eyes. This new collection, says the Andy Wolf team, is all about hyper-femininity, pushing the boundaries of shapes, colours and constructions with a result that is versatile and full of detail, from extra-wide temples and three-dimensional glitter to fun and unusual eyewear shapes. www.andy-wolf.com

Pleats1 by FACE A FACE – a very directional look this season combining two shapes, a hexagon with a rectangular cat eye

The beautiful Pleats1 frame by FACE A FACE is part of the new Japan Now! collection at FACE A FACE, a line that will be presented at Silmo in Paris next week. Inspired by Issey Miyake’s work, two lines of colour appear like two origami pleats around the eye. The designers highlight the contrasting effect between the delicate finesse of the lines and the format of the shapes combined, with the two lines of colour resonating in captivating and colourful tones. The Pleats model is conceived as the season’s “perfect designer piece for the eyes!” www.faceaface-paris.com

MYKITA Lite – the 5-sided model Liva – nice colours here include a black and a fresh cranberry tone

The MYKITA Lite collection features model Liva, one of several geometric styles to feature in TV series “And Just Like That“. The frame, along with other striking geometric models in the range such as the Alessia sunglass and colourful Stine specs, has large proportions combined with a comfortable lightweight stainless steel design. www.mykita.com

Charlotte by J. F. REY: designed for youngsters who would like grown-up glamour with on-trend colour

Geometric shapes have made their way into the kid’s collection too. The J.F. Rey line for teens includes model Charlotte in a flattering natural green. The frame is for girls aged 12 plus and offers a style that is glamorous and less conventional for this age group. www.jfrey.fr – For the latest trends and releases this month, follow us on Instagram @eyestylistmagazine

  | Eyestylist 15th September 2023

Silmo preview: RIGARDS x The Viridi-anne

The RG2004TVA clip-on glasses are the latest addition in this exceptional handmade collaboration series

A new frame has been announced in the ongoing RIGARDS x The Viridi-anne collaboration, a piece that beautifully defines the character and handcrafted excellence of this innovative artisan product line. Its gentle rectangular shape is inspired by sci-fi action film, Minority Report. 

From the top and bottom bars to the crescent side-pieces and negative spaces – harnessed as deltoid shape cut-outs -, all the hallmark elements of the collaboration are present, in an evolved form. The frame is immediately recognisable as a Rigards design, and yet it further explores the aesthetic of organic forms, and intriguing concave planes and beveled edges which the team explains draw influence from Naum Cabo’s Constructivist sculptures from over a century ago.

Handmade eyewear: RIGARDS x The Viridianne – RG2004TVA clip-on glasses – a new entry which will be on show at the Paris fair

The sunglass clip-on is adorned with a coiled motif — an ode to the Asian folk art of coiled-grass basket weaving from Tenki (once practiced by the Ainu people but now lost) to Anyaman Ribu-ribu (a traditional craft that lives on in the Malay world). Notably, the clip-on hides an invisible yet transformative impact, integrating with the frame, yet at the same time altering its front lines, which has the effect of creating what looks like two frames in one.

RIGARDS x The Viridi-anne RG2004TVA is available in 5 stylish colour ways. Every pair comes with a glasses case made from vegetable-tanned Santa Croce leather. For more information visit www.rigards.com and www.viridi-anne.jp

  | Eyestylist 13th September 2023

SILMO, Paris preview : new, innovative design

With the Paris fair taking place at the end of this month, independent brands are ready and waiting to present new collections with a fresh orientation for 2024. Expect a showcase of truly unique products, sustainable collections, 3D printed frames as well as traditional, handmade and iconic eyewear design.

Rich craftsmanship, innovation, and a real exploration of frame materials: the Silmo Paris fair is known as a launch pad for new creative talent, as well as offering a mind-blowing showcase of established fine eyewear brands and small independent labels that have successfully found their niche on the eyewear scene. This year’s event is fast approaching, and promises more of the same quality, ingenuity, and imagination from creatives in the sector from all around the world – and the seasonal unveiling of new colour palettes, shapes and eyewear directions that will be significant in the months to come and into 2024.

Already, in line with some of the most eye-catching catwalk trends, the variety in the colour stories look very promising, with plenty more bright and joyful colour ideas heading our way alongside a wearable timeless natural toned palette that customers have grown to love (natural greens, browns and “earthy” hues, look for burnt red, sienna and some refined organic palettes and rich golden tones).

The brands which hold a reputation for innovating and exploring materials with particular originality will bring new fresh proposals to Silmo, in line with the sustainable direction across the fashion industry as a whole and directions in the design world. Above: VAVA will launch a new supremely light aluminium series at Silmo. Made in Italy, the rims have been reduced dramatically as has the size of the hinge. The oversized round eye shape  – completely flat on top – creates a unique appearance – www.vaveyewear.com  

Ørgreen Optics: the new Plus One sunglasses (Imaginary Lines) will be on show at Silmo

Ørgreen Optics will introduce several new and daring frames into its repertoire, where state-of-the-art materials and original colour palettes create a cutting-edge offer of comfortable and contemporary styles in acetate, 3D printed polyamide, titanium and stainless steel. They will include the daring Plus One frame (above) in the Imaginary Lines collection which takes inspiration from the classic Pilot tear drop sunglasses, infusing it with a bold and sporty twist. What sets Plus One apart are its discreet 3D printed side shields. The 3D printing technology ensures a seamless integration,  accentuating the frame’s sleek profile while providing essential functionality.  www.orgreenoptics.com

All focus on temples and temple cores: Hulda by Gotti Switzerland: one of the new styles launching at the Paris fair

In many of the highest quality collections, detailing has become supremely refined, using techniques that draw parallels with jewellery design, and ideas for decorations and special effects that are surprising, exquisitely crafted and often remarkably finished and “finessed”.

Gotti Switzerland will show new styles across its collections, including acetate frames where colour is a principal story. The frame combine an aesthetic where soft lines and highly polished surfaces fuse with playful colours which include fuchsia red, earthy caramel brown and soft sea grass green. The Swiss brand will also present a new titanium collection at the Paris fair. www.gotti.ch

Rolf Spectacles – the new Wire collection will launch at Silmo

Rolf Spectacles told Eyestylist they have multiple new products launching at Silmo. Highlights will include the new Wire collection, which promises a fascinating melding together of functionality and style in frames that offer an artistic look that feels fresh and slightly daring with colour. Among the other launches at ROLF, the stonewashed colours in graphite and jade are likely to be a talking point in the Substance collection, ROLF’s award-winning sustainable 3D printed collection, which goes from strength to strength. www.rolf-spectacles.com

FACE A FACE: models Pleats2 and Kyoto2 in the JAPAN NOW! collection – a brand new release for Silmo

For Silmo, FACE A FACE told Eyestylist they will release a new collection which builds on the exploration of the Memphis movement and a connection to contemporary Japanese design and designers such as Issey Miyake and Kengo Kuma. Two-tone model Kyoto (above) is inspired by Shiro Kuramata’s iconic armchair with a cylindrical backrest (“Sofa with Arms”). The creative spirit of the spectacles is emphasized by the geometric purity of the cylinder, which serves as both endpiece and temple. This iconic design is magnified by angular shapes that create a bold and poetic contrast. Model Pleats2 in this collection is inspired by Issey Miyake and the origami pleats used by the designer. A three-tone acetate model, the design combines two shapes – hexagonal and rectangular – the frame features bold two toned lines which replicate Miyake’s signature pleats in the Pleats Please collection. www.faceaface-paris.com

J.F. Rey 3055 – a new Titanium collection for men to release at Silmo

French label J.F.REY is launching a new line of robust, lightweight, and aesthetically sophisticated optical frames for men. Increasingly ambitious in the technical design, the line is performance-oriented, combining creative construction, rich aesthetics, and quality manufacturing for a top-of-the-range product. Each one has a titanium front, stainless steel temples, carbon or glass fibre details and acetate end tips. www.jfrey.fr

Haskell by Vada Eyes: the US label is showing at Silmo for the first time

Model Haskell is an example of what to expect from newcomer Vada Eyes, the Austin brand we have followed these last years (see https://www.eyestylist.com/2021/12/trance-by-vada-eyes-retrofuturistic-optimism/ ). Their jewellery expertise and commitment to Japanese production – mixed with a very infectious energy, positivity and individuality is sure to propel them into the European eyewear scene with success and well deserved notoriety – right away. For more information about Vada Eyes, visit www.vadajewelry.com

Silmo Paris – the international eyewear and optics fair – takes place from 29th September to 2nd October 2023 at Paris Nord Villepinte. This year, the fair will offer an array of activities, events and gatherings, including the popular Trends Forum, the Silmo Academy, the Silmo d’Or Awards – with an awards presentation event outside the Halls on the evening of Saturday 30th September  – and the IOA Award, a prize which honours an optician for their high level of professionalism. For further details and registration visit  www.silmoparis.com Watch our Eyestylist Design + Inspiration page for the next weeks for more updates and previews for the Paris show!

  | Eyestylist 11th September 2023

10 questions: Dr Philip + Dr Erica Meltzer, Spectacles of Great Neck

A father and daughter optical enterprise on Long Island (NYC), Spectacles of Great Neck has become one of our favourite retailers to follow on social media. Dr Philip Meltzer opened the business in 1988, with Erica joining in 2022. Their professionalism, quality eyecare service and eyewear offering – presented with an infectious, original energy on Insta reels – are making an impression that goes far beyond the community they serve.  Here we asked them a little bit more about the business and their working life together.

1. Tell us about the store, which I think has quite a few years’ history? How long have you and your father been working together? Philip: Spectacles opened in Great Neck, NY in April of 1988, in a town with four other optical stores. With so many options for patients and customers, I knew I had to set myself apart. From day one, Spectacles has prided itself on excellent customer service and has adapted to meet the needs of a changing Great Neck demographic.

Erica: I graduated SUNY College of Optometry in May of 2022, so I’ve been working with dad for the year since. I also spent a lot of time working with him between undergraduate graduation and the beginning of optometry school, so we’ve fallen into a great groove over the last few years. (Above: Erica wears FACE A FACE and Philip wears J.F. Rey)

2. You have had what appears to have been a fabulous career so far in optics. What has made your working life fulfilling so far? Philip:I started my career in optician school before making my way to optometry school, so from the start I was uniquely positioned to see all of the opportunities an optical career has to offer. Nothing has been more rewarding than giving people the gift of sight. Watching someone experience perfect vision for the first time, or the smile on a child’s face when they successfully learn to wear contacts makes every day special. Now after 35 years, the relationships I’ve built with my patients and my community are so fulfilling. Being alongside them as they experience bat-mitzvahs, weddings, children, grandchildren and more has been a career highlight.

3. How do you enjoy working with your daughter Erica? Philip: When my kids went to college I begged them to take some science classes, just in case they wanted to go into a medical career. They both declined my request so I never expected to be lucky enough to work with either of my kids.  Now with Erica as an optometrist and Max as a veterinarian, it’s safe to say I was right about the science classes. Words cannot express how elated I am to share this career with my daughter. We are learning so much from each other every day, it has renewed my passion for learning. We have always had an incredible father-daughter relationship, and working together has only strengthened that bond. We have such a great time in the office together, and I love introducing my patients to the future of the practice. I am so proud of all the hard work she put in to get here, and so excited for her to have a career as amazing as I’ve had. My only hope is that she loves it as much as I do, and has a successful 35 years like I’ve had.

4. We absolutely love the Spectacles Instagram feed. When did you launch your Reels – what has inspired you to put so much energy and fun into the store social media? Erica: Wow, thank you! It really is a lot of fun. I’ve been working on it for a little under 10 years now, but the reels have really blown up in the last year. I’ve always had a creative side and didn’t necessarily want to part with that even though I’m in a medical profession. I also worked as a social media manager for local businesses throughout college so I’ve watched Instagram grow and evolve from a business perspective over the last decade. I think it’s really important for brands and businesses to showcase themselves on Instagram, and I think with optometry there are so many ways to do it. I love that optometry has a fashion component and a medical component and I didn’t want to stick with just one on Instagram. Some days you’ll see me posting about contact lens hygiene, the next day a stunning pair of glasses, and other days a silly video with dad. We’ve gotten such amazing feedback on it that I don’t think I could slow down! My favorite (and everyone’s favorite) videos are the ones dad and I film together, we get a lot of good laughs out of those. Of course social media is so important for businesses and brands in today’s era, but we really want our page to showcase our personalities and to be authentic to us and our practice.

5. I know that you are working with a wide range of collections. Are you stocking any independent brands and could you tell us which ones and which ones you like best right now? Erica: I think we do a great job at carrying something for everyone! As far as independent brands go we carry: Barton Perreira, FACE A FACE, Dita, Mykita, Matsuda, J.F. Rey, Chrome Hearts, and a few more. We also carry a handful of luxury fashion names, but we have done a great job at taking independent lines and making them the household fashion names that people now come in looking for.

Erica wears Barton Perreira frame

6.  You also have an eye for styling. Is this a natural gift or have you learnt how to do this in the last years? Erica:I have to say I really learned from the best. Watching the frames that dad has picked for people over the years on the first or second try has really taught me so much about how to pick an amazing frame for someone. At this point it comes very naturally to me, and I also try to make it a very collaborative effort with the patient because I want them to truly love their glasses. Now when I work with him I’m secretly trying to be the one to pick the pair that the patient likes best and really become the master!

7. What are your top tips for styling now as we head into Fall? Erica:We’re seeing some really great colors that are still subtle and wearable even for people who are a little timid when it comes to color. There are some gorgeous rich navy colors, aubergines, and green is still going strong from last season. We’re also seeing thick acetates come back into style, and some really cool rimless metal sunglasses that are awesome unisex pieces.

8. Have you a favorite glasses shape and colour which expresses the new – season look? Erica: I’m really loving this piece from Barton Perreira (pictured above) and also an aubergine-toned Fendi (below right) with a gold temple detail. The bold cat-eyes are where it’s at for me right now.

9. Will you shortly be travelling to Vision Expo West or Silmo? Erica: As of right now, we don’t have plans to! After Vision Expo East in March we added a new fundus camera to the practice and don’t currently have our eyes on more medical equipment. As far as frame buying goes, while we do love to walk the shows we usually put all of our effort into Vision Expo East since it’s right in our backyard. But who knows, as it gets closer we might just use it as an excuse for a vacation!

Left: Erica wears Chrome Hearts frame in matt gray, right: Erica wears Fendi

10. On Instagram you have launched a super Frame Friday highlight. We spotted you in the CHROME HEARTS grey-toned optical which looked stunning. Do you have this photo to share and would this be a frame you would wear and for what type of occasion? Erica: I’m having a lot of fun with New Frame Friday! People always ask when we are getting new stuff in and the answer is truly every day. I love being able to pick a frame that came in during the week and show people an exciting new piece. Chrome Hearts is always easy to get excited about. Their attention to detail and the edginess of their frames is so different from what other companies are doing. That matte gray piece is definitely cool, I think for my personal style I’d wear that to elevate a basic outfit, like jeans, a white t-shirt and a leather jacket this fall. I also think it would look amazing with a transition lens in the gray/silver mirror, or as a full sunglass. It’s slightly big on me so I don’t know if you’ll see it in my repertoire anytime soon but I’m still itching for my first pair of Chrome Hearts.

80, Middle Neck Rd., Great Neck, NY, USA

https://www.spectaclesgn.com / @spectaclesgn

  | Eyestylist 6th September 2023

Diffuser Tokyo: new-season designs

An Eyestylist Exclusive written by Clodagh Norton – As Autumn approaches, the Japanese accessories label has added to their stylish and functional collection with a range of chains and cases, including chic sustainable Ultrasuede pouches

Eyewear accessories have emerged as a must-have fashion item, adding an extra touch of personalisation, unique style and personality to an outfit, while having a function to protect and keep frames in easy reach. Japanese label Diffuser Tokyo remains one of few labels achieving a fusion of quality and originality in their designs, as well as providing a wide variety of accessories – from cases to luxury chains – in interesting materials and finishes. The chain designs have a refined jewellery finish, with delicate hand-finished details, while the eyewear cases propose minimal designs in materials that are carefully sourced, with some of their leathers and sustainable materials coming from arguably some of the most highly regarded suppliers in the world. Above: eyewear sacoche by Diffuser Tokyo – in Ultrasuede; below: the ‘Two rings joint metal’ chain is available in silver, black or gold  – it has a distinctive and very elegant jewellery finish 

Diffuser Tokyo; the eyewear sacoche has become a popular design in the Diffuser Tokyo collection

Among the case designs available, Diffuser Tokyo has launched a cross-body pouch design for storing specs or sunglasses when on the go. A wide range of colours have been launched including the dark brown, black and beige tones trending this season. The holder is made in Ultrasuede by Toray, a high-quality luxurious sustainable material which has a beautiful soft and tactile finish. The design has a decorative cord which can be worn over the shoulder.

Close-Up: Diffuser Tokyo silver chain (two rings joint chain) and on wrist, cross silk brace cords

Diffuser Tokyo is a leading supplier of luxury accessories to independent opticians around the world. The company will return to SILMO this month as exhibitors with their full range of eyewear accessories, cases and chains. For more information visit www.diffuser-tokyo.com