Eyestylist

  | Eyestylist 9th May 2023

10 questions: Akram Husseini, KLAR, Germany

Akram Husseini – owner of the independent eyewear boutique Klar in Darmstadt, Germany – is an old friend at Eyestylist, as one of the first premium independent opticians we first featured in January 2012. We caught up with him on Zoom this month to find our what has been happening in the last few years….

1. The last time we featured your store was in 2012!  What are the biggest changes you made over the years? Yes, things have changed a lot! Of course, after the Pandemic we are seeing a different mindset and different viewpoints. I am seeing people are definitely more progressive this year in choosing frames, and honestly the more progressive shapes are selling really well. The frames we are selling incredibly well include Lazare Studio. I know Alexander very well and in this collection there are some excellent shapes and the quality is great – the understatement in terms of the aesthetic has a lot of good points. And when I was thinking about your questions it gave me to think about what I have and what I really like, which is really a good idea. Still one of my absolute favourites for our store is Ahlem. I was their first customer in Germany and that was really nice. We gradually grew this collection until it was our number one, and everything Ahlem was doing in terms of developing the style was real sexiness. It worked so well, and still her glasses continue to have this feeling, it’s not just some kind of “bling-bling”! Ahlem has something great and it’s lasting. When you start with a brand and then you see them evolve this is really so interesting to see…and it’s quite a similar path to us here…..

2. How have you bounced back after the Pandemic and have you needed to change things in any particular areas after this strange few years? The biggest change over the years has been that I started alone back then (in 2012), and now we are a team of five. This is really good, having different characters to work with our customers – everyone has a different style if you like and I like and appreciate that a lot. Of course, we had a lot problems like everyone during the Pandemic, but we are on track again and working well. I think as we are authentic in everything we do, we have earned a lot of trust amongst the community as specialists in what we do.

More recently we have also changed another interesting thing. We have started to make appointments for people to pick their glasses up. Its strange to me to give time to the customer to choose a frame, but not set aside an appointment for them when they come back to collect the frame. They appreciate that we are now doing that.

Above: the team at Klar in Darmstadt

Current interior at Klar: refreshed in striking white and a hint of bold colour on walls and surfaces

3. What is your favourite feature of the store design in 2023 and why? Originally the store felt like a living room, when we first opened. But gradually with more people – customers and employees – the space felt too small. As I didn’t want to move locations, I made some changes, I took out some of the sofas. We’ve also added the Kvadrat acoustic panel on the wall to ensure the sound in the store is completely clear.

I’ve also taken more space for the workshop and added a space which is used by the team – to do all the orders but also to relax in as there is a kitchen and balcony. We can also use this area for private appointments if we need to and other events or parties.

4. And the frame selection, same or new and re-mixed? Yes, I have changed things a lot actually. There are so many really nice brands on the market now, that you really must change something sometimes! I have some collections I had on the first day like Garrett Leight, and I would not change something like that, for me it’s fundamental. More recently I added Jacques Marie Mage and of course Lazare Studio. I have also taken Thierry Lasry for sunglasses. We work very well now with Cutler and Gross as well. This year, we have also taken on Pontet from France. We have had some brands for a long time, MYKITA, Oscar Magnusson, Eyevan and so on. For accessories, we like the Japanese label Diffuser Tokyo.

5. What are your best experiences this year so far?  I’m going to be a Dad again in June. Quite exciting! I also should mention opti because I always go there with some friends and we go with some producers and sales reps to the Austrian Alps afterwards. This is a traditional event that we’ve been doing for 10 years now! It’s a fun and inspiring mix of people who go along.

6. How much is personality a part of your work? Yes, I think it is one of the most important things for us. We are always looking for a perfect “match” for our customers when it comes to eyewear. It is always important to have well educated employees, but it is important to  have personality and taste when working with these brands. You must be sensitive to fashion. You must understand other aesthetics to be able to work with certain products. We have many different characters coming into the shop and it is our job to match the frame with the character, as creatively as we can! As a team we know we need to have a real appetite or “fire” for good eyewear!

7. Do you think travel (to optical fairs) improves your experience as a specialist retailer? Yes, 100%! I am very enthusiastic about shows and I am also encouraging my employees that it is essential to go. Why? When you have a show as a buyer I can have an incredible fast overview of everything, especially the collections I am not working with. By looking at one after another at the shows, you can get a very direct feeling about everything for yourself. I also like the networking, and because I go to these events I can meet a lot of people again – it’s interesting. You can talk a lot, exchange ideas, get some recommendations and so on. I am also still involved with the German Collective group – we have done some interesting collaborations and we always try to meet up. All if this is important for the shop at the end of the day. It’s inspiring, and always great the meet the designers behind the brands we sell in person again.

Interior at Klar pre the updates: the aesthetic has always been minimal and refined in style

8. What are your plans this summer? We are always open through the summer. And it’s often the time of the year where we might hold specific events or parties for example.

9. Will we see you at SILMO? Yes for sure – it’s very important for me. I love Paris and I also love the people there. It’s also the perfect date for us in terms of business – it’s the perfect date for me to select my brands at this point in the year and make some orders.

10. What has been your best experience of working with an eyewear designer this year and why? Please name one and why was that a stand out experience? Well I’ve worked with Garrett Leight for 12 years. He founded his brand not a long time before I opened my shop. I would really say thank you to this lovely crazy guy because I asked him for an order before he had started any distribution in Germany or Europe. I texted him and we talked, and then he sent me some first frames for the shop without any payment even, it was really very cool. For me really I’d say it was a lucky moment – I think I was customer 24 or something worldwide – and we have now a friendship – and of course since then his company has changed a lot and grown. When I meet Garrett at the shows I remember that we were starting out at the same time, and it’s always a nice moment of nostalgia.

Klar, Schulstrasse 4, 64283 Darmstadt, Germany www.klar-augenoptik.de Read the first interview with Akram on Eyestylist.com at www.eyestylist.com/2012/01/klar-darmstadt-germany/

  | Eyestylist 8th May 2023

Patty Paillette: new Venice ‘flagship’ store

After a personal visit to the new store in Venice in April, Eyestylist asked Patty Shelabarger why the city is her current no. 1

“Our concept in Venice is a colourful space where our customer can meet the designer,” Patty Shelabarger, founder and designer of Patty Paillette told Eyestylist after our impromptu visit to the bijou flagship store near Piazza San Marco. “It is a magical experience to have the opportunity to bring together the creator and the wearer of a creative frame, here in this beautiful city.”

After pop-ups in Rome for 7 years and LA for 2, the designer is settling in Venice with a studio and Patty Paillette Eyewear store in close proximity. “Venice is a place full of art. I am so grateful I can have my design studio and my store close by – for sure this will be our home forever!” Shelabarger told Eyestylist, adding, “the energy is very special.”

The designer also added that she is currently working on the development of the “Patty Shelabarger” collections, alongside Patty Paillette. “This is my next exciting launch for Silmo 2023 and MIDO 2024….the new frames for men and women in this new collection are handmade in Italy and exciting…just watch this space!”

Patty Paillette Eyewear, Calle Frezzaria, 1177, San Marco, 30124 Venezia, VE, Italy – www.pattypaillette.com Photography by EYESTYLIST.COM: All rights reserved.

  | Eyestylist 8th May 2023

Eyestylist summer showcase: L.G.R + Scervino collaboration

An L.G.R collaboration with Italian designer label, Ermanno Scervino, launches this month

A new collaboration from L.G.R and Ermanno Scervino has been released, based on the eyewear brand’s classic Reunion Metal Explorer. The frame is described as lightweight and elegant with three versions offered in black/gold, gold or black/silver with different tones of tinted lenses. Above: the new style in the L.G.R + Ermanno Scervino edition

L.G.R for Ermanno Scervino – the Reunion Metal Explorer model – refined with precise handcrafted detailing

Ermanno Scervino is an Italian brand founded in Florence in 2000 and adhering to a set of values arising from tradition, skilled hand craftsmanship and state-of-the-art technical skill. For further information visit www.lgrworld.com

  | Eyestylist 4th May 2023

Accessories of the season: Diffuser Tokyo

The Japanese brand adds cases using a soft, durable ‘tech suede’ to ever-developing collection of accessories

Diffuser Tokyo has developed new eyewear case designs for the season in a combination of artificial suede and natural leather. The attractive unisex ‘sacoche’ style – which has been designed to be worn around the neck, is designed to carry eyewear, accessories or even a smart phone. Above: the new ‘sacoche’ design by the accessory innovators, Diffuser Tokyo – pictured in light Blue, light Pink and Beige

‘Sacoche’ style by Diffuser Tokyo – pictured in a natural dark brown

The design features a strong, adjustable multi-colored cord (125 cm in length) and comes in six colours including soft pastels and natural tones of black and brown.

The new case design from Diffuser Tokyo, offered in two sizes and a fresh yet restrained colour palette, which includes Black, Red Purple and White with a natural colored lining

The latest more traditional eyewear case to be released by Diffuser Tokyo has a classical shape with front fastening and is made from a combination of leather and ‘ultrasuede’, a high-quality artificial suede which is used in car interiors and bag and shoe design; this material has the advantage that it does not mark easily. The stylish design comes in two sizes, to suit a wide selection of typical frame sizes, including oversized. Find out more at www.diffuser-tokyo.com

  | Eyestylist 3rd May 2023

One to watch: Danielle Rattray, eyewear designer

Hailing from Northeast Scotland, eyewear designer Danielle Rattray is by all means one to watch. Seeking inspiration from her home country, a landscape bursting with culture, “colourful characters and great music”, in her words, Rattray creates strikingly bold-yet-refined frames worn by loyal patrons of her brand in London, Paris and soon…New York. Her style and energy is inspiring the youngest generations of fashion eyewear enthusiasts…. Eyestylist spoke to the Scottish designer…

Tell us a bit about yourself; how you grew up, what put you on the path you’re currently on…I come from the Northeast of Scotland, it’s an area full of colourful characters, great music, and lots of talented designers. I studied graphic design in Dundee and spent a lot of time in London, so it was an eclectic path full of inspirations.

How would you describe yourself? Committed.

What is your earliest memory of fashion? Fashion for me was always tied closely to music. Blondie, Patti Smith, Keith Richards, Vivienne Westwood. I always had a good understanding of colour and aesthetic; punk was a strong source of inspiration for me, it still is.

Teddy by Danielle Rattray

Have you always been a creative person? Yes, I think so. I was always drawn to colour, fabrics and aesthetics, as well as art and music.

What stands out to you most about the eyewear industry? That there is a place for everyone. You can be free to design in an understated way, or a really bold and outgoing way and people will support you and be open to your ideas. I love the pace of change and how new ideas emerge.

Lowe by Danielle Rattray

Does your culture and home country influence your work in any capacity? Definitely. Scotland is a small but strongly independent country. No nonsense and full of contrasts: gritty backstreets and noisy bars, but then spectacularly beautiful landscapes. My work is generally understated, but if you look closely, you see the quality and the effort that has been put in to create the relationship between the frames and the wearer.

From where do you draw the inspiration for your collections? Women, always. Again, a lot comes from the music I listen to; certain era’s and looks will inspire me. But it all comes back to women I see in the industry, or friends I meet. I travel between Scotland, London and Paris quite regularly, so I absorb different looks, and from that breeds new angles.

Tell us a little about your most recent line-up… My collections have evolved over the past few years from being heavily 60s and 70s inspired to being more unique to my personal design aesthetic. I have worked hard with my French factories, and I feel I have created a language in my collections that is strong but also understated and unique. Some of the shapes that seemed very strong in earlier seasons have developed into becoming best sellers. Obviously, colour is a signature as well as a consistently high-quality finish.

Vada by Danielle Rattray – in teal

What do your designs say about their wearer? (Name one, two or a few) I think on and consider my customers a lot. I create clean and uncluttered external finishes and put more intimate details on the inside of the frames. Jean and Stevie are strong and confident frames; they’re bold, whereas Teddy and Stella are more 60s inspired; softer and pretty.

Your brand seems to be extremely bold, fashion-forward and exciting; would you be open to expanding into other areas of the industry at some point in the future? Actually, I have been designing fabrics and clothing all of my career, it’s just been in the background. I have enjoyed focusing on eyewear but, with my Scottish roots, fabric and pieces that are particularly inspired by music and punk culture will never be far away. This year, I released a collection of knitwear working with one of Scotland’s oldest knitwear manufacturers – the results were incredible. That capsule is on sale now as part of my Spring ‘23 collection.

What’s next on the horizon for Danielle Rattray? I hope lots of travel, and continued progress in finding great stores to work with. We will keep our focus on the United Kingdom and France this year, but we have strong demand coming from New York and I would love to see Danielle Rattray present there. I have some new design elements coming into the collections this year, so I am looking forward to Silmo.

For more details about the brand visit www.daniellerattray.com An interview by Victoria G. L. Brunton exclusively for Eyestylist.com