Eyestylist

Exceptional variety in product design, quality craftsmanship and technical innovation were key features of the collections exhibited at the Paris optical fair this year – small and voluminous shapes were displayed side by side, material and colour combinations were innovative, paying attention to small details, and a mix of adventurous concepts and minimalist design work offered something for everyone; sustainability and social and environmental commitments remain talking points for all sizes of brand

The international optical community gathered for Silmo at the Villepinte exhibition in Paris, for a September weekend that was filled with bright sunshine, energy, enthusiasm for fresh new eyewear, and a colourful upbeat, overriding theme. After a scaled-down version in 2021, this year the Halls of the Silmo show were filled with bold and imaginative stand designs and bright, eye-catching displays, some with exciting art works, creating a lively, revitalised ambiance across the show.

Above: Titanium model Eiffel 1 by FACE A FACE -machined to reveal fine ‘interrupted’ lines – the colour combinations focus on dark backgrounds brought to life with bright neon tones – www.faceaface-paris.com

Shapes that are distinctive, graphic, thick and sculptural and characterised by the interesting possibilities of hand “carved” bevelling are plentiful across collections for the season; eyewear designers are working like artists to create unique effects that lend a very refined aesthetic – reworking with raw edges, shiny and matt contrasts, and highly polished or unpolished surfaces. Round, oval and soft “roundish-oval” shapes have re-emerged as a strong focus alongside squares, cateyes, pantos and wonderfully unusual shapes that celebrate individuality and a nonchalant ‘joie de vivre’.

Natural, sustainable, 3D printed and recycled materials were plentiful at the fair this year. The classics such as luxurious buffalo horn and wood continue to be well represented, right through to the popular sustainable choice, Eastman Acetate Renew. MYKITA has fully switched to Eastman Acetate Renew, stating that “the innovative material has made a complete pivot possible without compromising the appearance or performance of MYKITA’s handcrafted eyewear design” (www.mykita.com)

Experimental materials with an eco orientation were also attracting interest at the fair, with brands like Ochis (Ukraine) (https://ochis.co) showing their styles made from used coffee granules and colourful natural flower petals; ROLF was showing their portfolio of natural materials and the intriguing subtle textures in their 3D printed Substance and Substance Mount line, made from castor beans (www.rolf-spectacles.com).

Fine quality metal materials were well represented, ever popular for their strength, lightness, minimalist aesthetic and long life; they included titanium, beta titanium, and stainless steel. At Fleye Copenhagen, the models like Alberte (above) with a pure minimal design offer a timeless style for every day.  The Alberte model comes in sandblasted colours and is characterised by  a very delicate pattern engraved on the temple (www.fleye.dk).

In the much loved Silmo D’Or show awards, highlights included a win for Jason and Karen Kirk for their Kirk and Kirk two-tone optical design Thor in handmade acrylic (www.kirkandkirk.com) while the Japanese designer Masahiro Maruyama won the Sunglasses Category (Eyewear Designer) for his Kintsugi MM-0078 sunglasses based on the Japanese art of repairing broken pottery by mending the areas of breakage with lacquer dusted or mixed with powdered gold, silver, or platinum.

New breakthrough technology was also recognised in the Silmo D’Or awards. In the category Technological Innovation in Connected Products, Sweden’s SKUGGA Technology (https://skugga.com) won the award for their miniaturised patented smart module which can be integrated into any frame design, sunglasses or optical. Companies such as McLaren Vision and Inspecs are already working with the company to launch smart eyewear products in the coming months.

A pair of performance sunglasses with a lens which changes colour in 1 second in any tint between 17% and 42% of transmission won the Silmo D’Or in the sport category. The product “Bot with IRID lenses” is designed by ‘Out Of’ (https://out-of.com).

Silmo Paris will take place next year from 29th September to 2nd October 2023. For more information about the Silmo show and the Silmo D’Or event this September, visit www.silmoparis.com For further comment on trends and directions, watch this space…

This year, the international optical fair runs from Friday 23rd to Monday 26th September at Paris Nord Villepinte

As the optical industry prepares for one of the international events of the year in Paris, optical retailers, buyers and the press await the first chance to see what’s fresh and new in eyewear design on the international stage. For many international visitors and exhibitors this year, Silmo represents an especially important date in the 2022 calendar of events, a fresh start after the difficulties and disruptions to travel during the pandemic, and certainly – for those who attend annually – a very welcome chance to return to pre-pandemic, in-person experiences and direct business engagements and presentations, with new and long-term customers and friends.

Eyewear exhibitors and creative designers will gather from far and wide this year at the Paris Nord Villepinte venue – among them long-established international favourites and emerging designers travelling from many regions of France, as well as all parts of Europe and further afield – Hong Kong, Japan and the USA. Above: The latest styles by Paris label Lunettes ALF will be on show at Silmo 2022: the label has a collection of timeless classics produced in hand polished Japanese acetate – the frames have become very popular with optical connoisseurs – https://lunettes-alf.com

New trends will be unveiled at Silmo: fine lines in bright colours on a classic brown tone – a colour we expect to see much more of this season: Eiffel1 panto at FACE A FACE

In this preview for the event which opens tomorrow at 9am, a number of companies shared their new styles with Eyestylist in advance, offering a taste of what will be on show this edition – and insight into trending colours, materials, design innovations and style directions, all areas we shall comment on in the weeks to come.

At Paris brand FACE A FACE, the model Eiffel1 is part of the new and colourful autumnal line – showing for the first time at the Silmo fair. Compared to a ‘Meccano’ construction set, the style can to fruition as a recreation of the architectural aesthetics of the metal bars of the iconic Eiffel Tower. Fine lines in bright colours stand out against a dark background to enhance the design. www.faceaface-paris.com

The French label VUE DC is always a highlight in the creative heart of Silmo’s much loved Hall 5. This year, the collection will include some fabulous head-turning shapes and statement designs, such as new model Syl – an elegant round/oval shape designed in 8mm Mazzucchelli acetate and offered in tones of champagne, opaline terracotta, teal, black and tortoiseshell. Its character and special definition comes from a slightly rough bevel on the outside of the eye shape. Find out more at www.vuedc.fr

The new Detroit model at JF Rey is part of the Neon Elements collection – inspired by “the Metaverse where reality and virtuality blend”. The frame has a thick rim and architectural structure – a strong and characterful appearance that with resonate with those who love a modern statement style. This new collection is playful with colour contrasts, highlighting neon tones and making them wearable for the face. www.jfrey.fr

The super sharp new model Smith by Veronika Wildgruber – a multifaceted designer based in Berlin – is just one of several exciting pieces that have all the hallmarks of Wildgruber’s innovative and evocative style. Particular attention is paid to the effects of the sharp blocky structures and variation in colours and surfaces which are often combined in interesting ways, shiny with matt, opaque with transparent. www.eyewear.veronikawildgruber.com

About Silmo 2022: the fair (trade only) takes place at Paris Nord Villepinte from 23rd to 26th September 2022. This year the roster of independent labels showing include: Article One, Carlotta’s Village,  Dabrach, Diffuser Tokyo (Joy Every Time), Fleye, FACE A FACE, FOLC Eyewear, Gotti Switzerland, Kirk and Kirk, Kenmark, l.a. eyeworks, Lafont Paris, Lunettes ALF, MOREL, MYKITA, Nina Mûr, RAEN, Res/Rei, Rolf Spectacles, Sea2see, VAVA and Veronika Wildgruber. The SILMO d’Or awards – the much coveted prizes which recognise outstanding design and innovation in all categories of product exhibiting during the fair – will be announced during the Saturday evening of Silmo with presentation by Amélie Morel, President of Silmo. To register, and find out more, visit www.silmoparis.com