Eyestylist

  | Eyestylist 16th December 2022

Binokle: a standout store in Krakow, Poland

Founded in 2014, Binokle is a unique, female-owned independent eyewear boutique based in Krakow, Poland that offers customers a hands-on optical styling approach paired with an extensive range of artistically designed frames. Situated in a country that neighbours Ukraine, recent years haven’t been easy for the boutique, but their list of loyal clientele only continues to grow. Victoria G. L. Brunton spoke to founder Paulina Bajdas to find out more…

Tell us a little about yourself: your education / professional background…My name is Paulina Bajdas, I live in Krakow and I opened Binokle at the beginning of 2014. People often ask me why I decided to start my business, and it’s because I wanted to contribute to the local community. I was seeking self-accomplishment, my place in the world, and had worked in different industries looking for things that I was good at. There was a period in my life when I worked as a stylist, in a shop belonging to a well-known chain of optical salons. There, I noticed that people found it difficult to choose frames that fit them and also that the eyewear market in Krakow was very limited. Clients usually find themselves being offered mass-produced glasses, and the whole market of independent brands was being ignored.

I graduated with a Masters in business management alongside a two-year diploma in styling and make-up. At that time, I decided to enrol in an optics school and began looking for financing to open the first Krakow eyewear shop with independent brands. My first choice was MOSCOT, I was actually the first person to import this brand to Poland. After that, I successfully  started to bring in new brands that I discovered during optics exhibitions in Milan, Paris and Munich. Later on, I decided to expand my knowledge and I finished optometry at the Medical University in Poznań.

Binokle: the interior is elegant and minimal

How do you select the brands you stock? I want all the frames in my shop to be top-notch quality, I don’t want to see my clients being forced to return here with a complaint. I feel satisfied when selling high quality products and my customer service is second to none. Another important aspect of the products I stock is interesting and extraordinary design. From the very beginning, my goal was to offer frames that people feel comfortable with but also feel special wearing. A lot of my customers are not afraid to highlight their appearance with bold frames. I stock brands from all over the world, and because of that I introduce aesthetics from different places; from minimalistic Scandinavian style to Spanish brands that are colorful, bold and without limitations. I travel a lot, and in doing so I look for inspiration. When I visited Lisbon, for example, I was inspired by a beautiful shop with vintage frames. After that experience, I decided to introduce a small vintage collection in Binokle — it was well received.

Did you always want to work in fashion / eyewear or was it an offshoot of another passion? Before opening the store, I worked as a stylist on photoshoots. I always had a feel for aesthetics and style. Like a photographer who can always find a good composition and capture the real character of whoever’s being photographed, on seeing a client I immediately know which frames would complement their character in the best possible way. That is a kind of talent.

Binokle interior and resident greyhound

Does Binokle have a certain type of customer? If I would need to describe the type of clients that visit us, I would say that they are very aware of what they want, they don’t blindly follow trends and they look for the best quality in a unique form. For them, showing off a brand name is not at all important; what matters most is an interesting design. I’m lucky to have a pleasant, open list of clientele and a lot of regular customers who buy frames only from me.

What have been some of the most popular trends within the Polish eyewear market? After the trial of Johnny Depp and Amber Heard, I got a lot of calls from people asking what glasses Johnny was wearing and where they could get them. Frankly speaking, I don’t care about trends. I value timeless design – something which doesn’t necessarily mean classic and boring, but rather pieces that won’t go out of fashion in a couple of years. When a client decides to wear a pair of my frames that they bought 5 years ago, nobody will say they’re unfashionable. The only pattern that I notice is that my clients are attached to certain brands and their line of products. However, I am well aware that my products are only of interest to a small percentage of all eyewear users.

How does the current political situation with Russia and Ukraine affect business, if at all? When the war in Ukraine broke out, life in Krakow stopped for a whole two weeks. Shops and restaurants were empty, all the inhabitants were primarily focused on helping refugees and we put our energy into helping Ukrainians. Simultaneously, we feared the worst. “What will happen with Poland?” This was on everybody’s mind. However, life needs to go on and local businesses won’t function if there aren’t any clients, so we swiftly went back to normal. I’m proud that my fellow citizens managed to face this problematic situation with strength and courage; our Eastern European neighbours are our brothers and sisters.

Are there any Polish eyewear brands / designers you’re excited about at the moment? No one Polish is on my radar at the moment, unfortunately, but I admire Kasia Łupińska at Massada.

Dance performance at Binokle; by the Krakow Dance Theatre

Tell us about the performance / dancers we saw on your Instagram recently? This was a project about the pandemic, portraying a certain feeling of emptiness that surrounded us during isolation. It was an expression of hope and fear of uncertainty. These dancers from Krakow Dance Theatre perform behind shop windows annually, Binokle was one among other boutiques selling niche brands that participated this year. It was the third consecutive year that I had the pleasure of welcoming these artists into my store. A lot of people gathered to watch; I am always thrilled to see so many people participating in local artistic events. (more…)

  | Eyestylist 14th December 2022

Article One: design precision and style

Winter releases inspired by cool bestsellers

Nine new optical frames have been released at artisanal eyewear brand Article One, with acetate styles like Dewey (above) and Ellis included in the stylish selection, designed with care and attention to comfort and fit.

“We combined earthy autumnal acetate colorways with elegant minimalist metals to create a contrast between materials,” says founder West Stoody. “I am really excited about this release and to add these new styles to our core collection.”

Ellis Horn: a bold, thick acetate style which retains a nice lightness

All four acetate styles feature technical features such as three-barrel hinges and OBE Injection Safety Screws. They lean into thicker acetate to create the sense of weighty luxury, but are light and comfortable and suitable for all day wear.

Optical Poplar II is one of the stainless steel designs at Article One

The stainless steel frames draw inspiration from two best-selling Article One collections – All-Metal and Windsor. Combining contemporary, metal silhouettes with eye-catching, vintage influences, the five stainless steel models each feature two colorways with a thin reverse windsor wrap that adds a subtle detail of colour. To find out more about these new designs – visit the Article One website at https://articleoneeyewear.com

  | Eyestylist 12th December 2022

Struktur: sculpted finesse with colour

Made in Normandy, the new ophthalmic frames uphold the original concepts of dynamic colour and geometric shapes of the Struktur collections

Thierry Bonhomme, designer and Jean-François Lufeaux bring manufacturing know-how to their collection at Struktur, through the expertise of the artisans at Solf Production, a traditional French eyewear producer which first opened in 1966. Through ongoing traditions of craftsmanship and French heritage, the factory is able to offer a guarantee of French quality – ‘Origine France Garantie’ – a certification and endorsement that assures the traceability and origin of their eyewear product with complete transparency. Above: a frame that caught our eye at Silmo – The Artist by Struktur in matt white acetate with titanium temples. The graphic frame shape is surprisingly lightweight – the colour choice for the design is broad, and includes yellow, matt graphite and a trendy bright pink

The Commander by Struktur pictured in olive green – other colorways include Tokyo Tortoise, Brown Haze and Black Turtle

The Commander is typical of the Struktur styles with a masculine character. The ‘sculpted’ or bevelled effect brings a distinctive look to the frame when worn, while carefully shaped temples make it especially comfortable if worn throughout the day.

Start 15 by Struktur in Tortoise Twist – a new addition to the Start collection – designed for smaller faces

All Struktur frames are made by SOLF Production, a traditional eyewear factory based in Évreux, Normandy. The factory is working hard to highlight their responsible production processes, and are reusing waste to produce other small accessories such as key rings whilst also introducing new pounches and cleaning cloths which are made from recycled microfibre. Struktur Eyewear will exhibit at the upcoming fairs including Opti, Mido and 100% Optical. See the full collection of Struktur frames at www.struktur-eyewear.fr

  | Eyestylist 8th December 2022

100% Optical – London’s annual eyewear event

The London fair returns from 25th to 27th February 2023

100% Optical, the British trade fair which takes place annually at London’s ExCel, has announced an energetic 3-day edition for 2023, with a line up that includes Keynote speaker Natasha Cazin from Euromonitor talking on Global Consumer Trends. All the industry’s leading organisations, including AOP, ABDO, OSA and AIO will be represented at the event, and over 200 exhibitors across the fields of eyewear, technology, accessories and lenses and contact lenses – will be showcasing new innovations and products at the fair. The edition will include the LOVE Eyewear Awards, a celebration of the creativity in the eyewear design world, with prizes awarded for frames and accessories in numerous categories, from Sustainable Frames to Luxury Eyewear.

Among the creative independent eyewear brands exhibiting at the fair, favourites such as Erker’s, Götti Switzerland, Kirk & Kirk, Ørgreen Optics, SALT. Optics  and Struktur will be joined by 100% newcomers, Pampaloni Silver Eyewear from Florence (Italy), VAVA from Portugal and VYSEN from the USA. Above: Nina Mûr from Madrid returns to London in 2023; their elegant sustainable eyewear will be on show at stand D21.

Fuller by SALT. Optics, a Californian brand with a special draw in the UK

Timeless designs from SALT. Optics remain a popular choice among independent opticians in the UK. Their current line, which is made in Japan, reexplores fine detailing and flattering colorations inspired by nature with exceptionally elegant colour pairings and interesting finishes.

Pampaloni Silver Eyewear from Florence – the company is attending 100% for the first time

Pampaloni Silver Eyewear produces luxury frames which are made of sterling silver, in designs inspired by 19th century eyewear.

Hana in Ice – part of a popular new Limited Edition by Kirk & Kirk, one of the British “eyewear highlights” for 2023 at 100%

Kirk & Kirk remain trailblazers in the UK independent market, encouraging bold colour in bold thick frames that are a popular choice with celebrities including Robert Downey JR and Jason Bell.

The Top Gun by Struktur – from Normandy, France

Struktur returns to 100% with their extensive colourful handmade optical and sunglasses collection. The frames by Struktur have an elegant sculptural look only achievable with artisan workmanship and hand finishing.

100% Optical continues to support the RCA ‘eyewear design’ competition, an initiative that allows future talent to explore eyewear design and key topics such as materiality and sustainability. Now in its 9th year, for this edition of the fair the  competition will focus in on the issue of sustainability with the topic, “Sunglasses that do not cost the earth“.

100% Optical 2023 returns to its home at ExCeL in London from 25th to 27th February 2023, featuring over 200 exhibitors including Erker’s, Nina Mûr, Vava Eyewear, Struktur Eyewear, Kirk & Kirk, SALT. Optics and more. Find out more and register here: www.100percentoptical.com Location: ExCel London, Royal Location: ExCel London, Royal Victoria Dock, 1 Western Gateway, LONDON E16 1XL. Eyestylist is a Media Partner for 100% Optical.

  | Eyestylist 4th December 2022

Pantone Color of the Year 2023…for eyewear

“A brave and fearless red shade…” called Viva Magenta

For 2023, Pantone has announced ‘Viva Magenta’ as their ‘Colour of the Year’, a bright pinkish red they refer to as “an unconventional red for an unconventional time.” According to Pantone, Viva Magenta “welcomes anyone and everyone with the same verve for life and rebellious spirit. It is a colour that is audacious, full of wit and inclusive of all”.

The brand states: “In this age of technology, we look to draw inspiration from nature and what is real. Pantone 18-1750 Viva Magenta descends from the red family, and is inspired by the red of cochineal, one of the most precious dyes belonging to the natural dye family as well as one of the strongest and brightest the world has known.”

In eyewear, bright tones of fuchsia and neon pink were already trending successfully in the summer months, and tones related to this palette were fresh and bold in the collections exhibited at Silmo for S/S 2023; the colour palette now extends further with new variations of pink and red and bright combinations, inspired by the intense natural red ‘cochineals’. Above: Agent Provocateur sunglasses by RETROSUPERFUTURE, a brand new collection launched for the current season, www.retrosuperfuture.com

Model Maldives by Lafont Paris in a vibrant fabric print combining bright red with hints of purple

In the fashion press, the Viva Magenta at Pantone is being represented in a multitude of red and pink variations, from Carmine red to berry tones with a very intense pink/purple depth. At Lafont Paris, the new Maldives frame for Spring/Summer 2023 comes in an eye-catching red coloration with patterned fabric sandwiched within the acetate layers. www.lafontparis.com

Viva Magenta by Pantone – Photo: PANTONE

“This year’s Color of the Year is powerful and empowering. It is a new animated red that revels in pure joy, encouraging experimentation and self-expression without restraint, an electrifying, and a boundary-less shade that is manifesting as a stand-out statement….” PANTONE

Materika Piuma (70658) by Look -Made in Italia

At Materika – a brand produced by the Italian brand, Look-Made in Italia, the new Piuma series features a very close colour to the Pantone Viva Magenta, in a shape that is graphic and angular to create a bold and trendsetting optical style. Find out more at https://lookocchiali.it Written by Clodagh Norton – All rights reserved