Eyestylist

| Eyestylist 20th January 2023

Jisco Style: Mediterranean colour

Based in Sant Cugat del Vallès, Spain, Jisco is an independent eyewear company that prioritises design, colour and sustainable manufacture. The environment is at the epicentre of every step of its design process, from raw materials to manufacturing and natural inspiration. Eyestylist’s Victoria G. L. Brunton spoke to founder, Joerdis Neubauer as Jisco announced celebrations of its 10th anniversary…

Your collections are colourful and vibrant, where do you find the inspiration for your colour palettes? All inspiration for new shapes, colours and colour combinations I take from my surroundings and my environment. I always study face shapes; which shape fits what basic features and whose personal style, moving on to how I can help to emphasise a person’s style through my design and colour choice. Colour combinations can be found practically everywhere around us. In the urban landscape, as well as in nature, there is an infinite wealth of colours and textures – you just have to open your eyes to it.

You speak a lot of and are passionate about your Mediterranean heritage, could you tell us a little about this / your Mediterranean upbringing? The Mediterranean, of course, is characterised by very unique colour combinations. The influence of the Mediterranean light makes colours and structures appear very individual and very special. In addition to that, there are always feelings, sounds and pleasant smells that can complete the mood or whole picture.

Jisco Style: Madame in bold colourations

Which pair of your frames best represents you and why? There is not one model that is specifically typical for me, but there are many in which  I feel my personal style is particularly represented. For example, models like “Deseo”; here, I love the colour combinations especially. Another example is “Irina”, the technical side with the screw-less spring hinge and its timeless style again shows a completely different side of my collections.

What is your most popular frame and does it, in your eyes, represent the typical JISCO customer? If so, or if not, what does that customer look like according to you? To address this question, I’ll go straight back to my previous point. Deseo and Padruga, each with their own colour variety are, in my eyes, very typical of our collection, and of our very own unique style.

Sky by Jisco

What does sustainability mean to you? Environmental sustainability is a very important point! We only have this one earth and must urgently rethink how we live, work and impact it. However, this revelation still does not seem to have arrived for many. Some years ago, we were one of the first to purchase certified raw materials according to this desire to change our ways. Until recently, acetate manufacturers only offered black and brown acetate as “organic” options, but new ways have been found through the corresponding increased demands of designers and developers, so now we can choose from a huge portfolio of  colours – this definitely makes it easier for me to work sustainably. Pure nature-based and biodegradable materials are my passion, Bio Acetate or pure titanium are now a normal and regular feature in my collections.

Tell us about how JISCO produces its frames sustainably and how / if you continue to improve on this…As I said previously, sustainable products are my favourites to design. Because of this, we will be expanding accordingly and developing each upcoming collection together with the acetate manufacturers. We take our responsibility very seriously.

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| Eyestylist 17th January 2023

opti 2023: a positive start to the year

Healthy attendance and an interesting and broad choice of brands and design collections at opti – in total 307 exhibitors – were encouraging signs of optimism in the optical business at the start of the year. 

opti munich, a key trade show for the optical business, took place last weekend over three days. Brands and eyewear designers from around the world exhibited at the fair, which put special focus on sustainability and ‘innovation for optics & design’. The fair also supports new brands via the OPTI BOXES, where a number of emerging names were featured, including Raydiant Cologne and Leipzig Eyewear.

Above: Luxury, high-quality and technical collections were well represented across the halls of opti: Blackfin had just launched their new campaign on the eve of the opti show, underlining colour stories and a bold statement style, www.blackfin.eu

Bionic by Götti Switzerland: 3D printed eyewear and new vegan leather eyewear case

Bionic 3D printed eyewear was launched by Götti Switzerland alongside their brand new vegan eyewear case, made from a vegan leather produced in Europe. The case, which is made at Götti HQ, folds in two different ways so the customer can choose how they want it and the optician can arrange it according to their preferences. www.gotti.ch

Max by Lafont Paris – Issy & LA collection – transparent colours are still a big feature in eyewear

New colour stories were very much in evidence across the halls of opti, with many fresh and beautifully rendered directions, from transparencies to runway-oriented colours such as neons, and fashion colours such as digital lavender.

Silencio by Emmanuelle Khanh: “an elevated aura of glamour”

Emmanuelle Khanh showed their new styles which included frames with a new bold EK logo to add glamour and attitude to the range. Their yellow Silencio is a beautiful statement for Summer.

Pontet’s Gaia in lilac – close to the much hyped digital lavender shade

A palette of new yellows was very popular in some of the most fashion focused collections as were the ranges of very chic neutrals – recycled patterned materials (www.regrind.se) have become a feature of the innovative material offer in independent eyewear and were well represented at opti this month, alongside the strong selection of quality 3D printed frames (see below, ROLF Spectacles and a brand new limited edition) and luxurious, natural wood and horn designs.

Rolf Spectacles: a limited edition 3D printed set by the Austrian brand featured a touch of neon for the first time

The second opti BOX AWARD was won by the Swiss brand  LARS Brillen – a start-up making 3D printed frames highlighting timelessness and sustainability. LARS Brillen is the second winner of the prize following eyewear designer Beate Leinz, who won the first opti BOX AWARD in 2022. opti 2024 will take place on 12th to 14th January, at the Fairground Munich. www.opti.de

| Eyestylist 16th January 2023

In Barberia – Bottega Ottica, Treviso / Venice – Italy

Marco Andreoni of In Barberia Bottega Ottica shared the history of a very unique eyewear store in Italy where frames are still made exclusively by hand

“Our family story started in 1980 with a small optical store near Venice,” explains Marco Andreoni, when we asked him about the creation of the beautiful ‘In Barberia’ stores in Treviso and now the heart of Venice. “For the last 12 years, we have sold independent eyewear collections exclusively – at the same time we started to realize our own pieces by hand in acetate.”

In Barberia – the workshop-style store in Venice opened in June 2022

In Barberia’s shop in the heart of the city of Treviso, has been open for 5 years. The owners created their namesake collection – In Barberia – as a completely handmade collection. The very first frame that they made was worn by Elliott Gould in the film Ocean’s 11. “At that point, we decided to show the way in which we work and we opened the window of our lab so people could look in. Since then, everyone can see what we do with their very own eyes.”

The interior of the In Barberia store in Treviso

Today, the interiors of both stores reflect the craftsmanship at the centre of the very unique style of the artisan business. “Antonio, my business partner and co-founder, works in the window in a setting that is very much about vintage style fitted with original furniture from the past.”
In 2022, Marco and Antonio also opened their shop/atelier in the heart of Venice, with the same design as the Treviso location. “In Venice we sell our collection exclusively, offering both prêt-à-porter and bespoke frames….we believe we have become one of few shop in Europe to do this and the first one in Italy; we don’t use any machines to create the frames and temples. We have also set up a kind of school in the lab of the Treviso studio so that we can teach the art of traditional spectacle-making to our young workers.

The large windows of the Treviso store invite everyone to see Antonio making the frames by hand

At In Barberia, beespoke frames are produced in acetate and buffalo horn, using also old materials from Mazzucchelli and many other acetate companies in France and Japan. The buffalo horn is imported from India and some sheep horn is also being used – sourced from Sardinia Italy.
International connections are also successful. The business is working closely with the well-known Athens optical store, Johnnie Rousso. “We have a special friendship and partnership With Johnnie Rousso, and he is our unique provider of the IN BARBERIA collection and bespoke frames in Athens, Greece.”
Other special projects include the creation of capsule collections for designers and artists. At the end of 2022, In Barberia released a special collab with the street artist ENDLESS from London (@endlessartist) in a limited edition of 25 pieces.
“During 2023 we will open a new shop outside Italy, but at the moment I can’t say any more…” adds Marco as we try to find out more about activities for 2023!

In Barberia is owned by Marco Andreoni and Antonio Battaglia.

In Barberia Bottega Ottica, Via Barberia 22, Treviso, Italy
In Barberia Occhiali  Su Misura, San Marco Calle Fuseri 4373, Venice, Italy

| Eyestylist 13th January 2023

Pushing boundaries in gold: EOE Eyewear handmade luxury

The eyewear creators from Swedish Lapland, EOE Eyewear are launching the Eternity collection at opti (Munich), a new departure for the brand exploring the natural qualities of gold

Sophisticated, strictly handmade in all their elegant details, and pushing boundaries in their work with gold frames: the new luxury collection, Eternity fuses fine materials with inspiration from the twisted shapes of the branches of trees, and is completely handmade by a jeweller in a small village in Swedish Lapland called Lannavaara.

At the heart of the concept, EOE Eyewear references the story that all the gold on our planet is believed to have been created, and fallen to Earth, when two dead stars collided in space: a finite metal with much mystery connected to it. The Eternity Collection is informed by this story and all that gold and its history stand for, with the ambition, say the creators, of creating a unique place in the frame wearer’s heart. Above: model Crater – one of three stunning gold models by EOE Eyewear

Milky Way by EOE Eyewear

“At EOE, the material we create our frames from is always a guiding light in the entire process, and there is something both full, raw and beautiful about the gold that has attracted us for a long time. With this collection, we get to take everything we stand for to its peak –with a  sustainable material, world-class craftsmanship and design inspired by the nature found in Swedish Lapland…” – Camilla Lindberg, Creative Director at EOE Eyewear

EOE Eyewear’s Eternity collection is handcrafted in gold

The three 18K gold glasses shapes in the collection – Milkyway, Andromeda and Crater – come with equally astounding hand-blown cases, designed by Lisa Reiser from Studio Reiser, made in Kosta Boda.”This is an exclusive collection, and we want to pay tribute to everything it stands for. It felt important that the glasses should rest in a special and slightly mysterious place at home,” says Camilla.

To find out more, find EOE Eyewear at opti at Hall C2 / Stand 261 and visit their website at https://eoe-eyewear.com

| Eyestylist 11th January 2023

Preview / opti 2023: new releases announced

The New Year opens with opti 2023, taking place this weekend in Munich. The fair will be a chance to view a wide range of new eyewear products and reunite with friends and colleagues in the industry

As the industry looks forward to meeting up at opti 2023, creative eyewear company are preparing to reveal new collections and innovative products in Munich, at an event incorporating premium brands, newcomers, start-ups and some of eyewear’s favourite designers and ‘visionaries’.

The fair programme will focus on the themes of myopia management and sustainability for visitors, in recognition of the value of these topics for the year 2023. The key trends for the new season will also be underlined, among them colour and material directions – the organisers are highlighting, among other trends, Transparency, Athleisure Eyewear, Metal Frames, and Colour Gradients.

The event will also host the opti BOX award 2023, for young innovative labels on Saturday 14th January 2023. The award’s criteria include “Innovation”, “Design & Function” and “Sustainability”.

Above: The French eyewear brand Lunettes Alf will show at the Wolf Continental stand, Hall C2 / Stand 561 – Alf has made a name for itself in Germany and Austria – the brand offers timeless classics in elegant, beautifully finished, acetate colours

Kaledo by FACE A FACE – daring combinations and artistic shapes

FACE A FACE promises an array of refreshing, desirable colour proposals, with kaleidoscopic colour effects (model Kaledo), and elegantly sculpted two-tone and three-tone designs. The new models extend the concepts informed by the Memphis movement which were first released in Paris in 2022. For opti, find FACE A FACE with Design Eyewear Group at Hall C2 / Stand 661.

Optical Poplar II in gold by Article One

Article One exhibit with their sister company l.a.Eyeworks at Hall C1 / Stand 347 this week. They have introduced a series of fine everyday metal designs into the main line collection; they will also show their Active Sunglasses Range, a tasteful and timeless athleisure-oriented, sports-inspired range that leads the way in quality-driven, technically atuned eyewear suited to sporty, design-oriented individuals who love outdoor pursuits.

Gotti BIONIC – showing for the first time at opti

Götti Switzerland is introducing BIONIC at opti, a new sustainable collection inspired by nature. The glasses are 3D printed from a single sustainable material created from castor beans.

A new hinge, inspired by human ball-and-socket joints, is featured. The eyewear has been systematically pared down to the front piece and a pair of temples, with no additional screws or other aids used for the hinge. By streamlining to a single material, the company claims to have optimized their eyewear manufacturing with short transport distances, less energy consumption, and straightforward recycling. Visit the stand at Hall C2 / Stand 681 to see the new styles.

Architecture inspired at BAARS

BAARS has announced a new collection called Manifeste, which mirrors the architectural concept of the Pompidou centre by Renzo Piano and Richard Rodgers. The new products based on this unique inspiration will be shown for the first time at opti at Hall C1 Stand 650.

opti takes place from 13th to 15th January 2023 at the Fairground Munich. For further details visit http://www.opti.de