December 2013

Fusing Nature and Art

Suzanne Klemm – Suzy Glam – The Netherlands

1st December 2013 This month Eyestylist visits with Suzanne Klemm, designer at Suzy Glam, who launched her label earlier this year. Why did you decide to create eyewear? “My first education was as an optician. I was seventeen, and listened to my parent’s advice not to study (like I wanted) design, but instead learn a “real job” where I could be financially independent. I used this profession as a side job next to my later profession as a jewellery designer. I studied jewellery and exhibition design at Zurich University of Arts, and I have a Bachelor of Arts from the University of Utrecht. In the optical shop in Amsterdam where I work part-time, I met Etienne Frederiks. Quite soon it was clear that we wanted to start our own label. We combined our interests and talents, and developed over a period of more than one year our first collection. Now it seems very logical to us that we took this step.” Inspiration: What are your sources – travel, art, architecture, your jewellery background?  “Nature is an endless source of inspiration to me. I try to materialize my observations. On the other hand, visiting art installations and sculptures gives me a drive to work. Some of my ideas are going in the direction of jewellery, some in the direction of eyewear. Sometimes I use shape or technical solutions for eyewear from my jewellery experiences. I create a concept that helps me to give a sense to each creation, and a coherency between every single piece. In other words, I like to think in series.”

Suzy Glam is Right on Time in Coffee Acetate
Suzy Glam is Right on Time in Coffee Acetate

As a newcomer to the optical world, were there any challenges/obstacles to start? “Starting is always hard and uncomfortable. At the same time, it was one of the reasons why we took this step – starting something new is extremely exciting. Every step is a step on unknown territory. The fact that Etienne had so much experience and contacts in the optical world helped us a lot. Everyone we knew supported us and we are very thankful for that.” What materials are your favourite in which to create frames? Do you have a “wish list” for materials that you would like to use? “I love acetate. I love plastics in general, also for jewellery. It’s warm, colourful, soft to touch, translucent and it gives me the possibility to shape it very three-dimensionally. I know it would be a good time to create in metal, but at the moment I express myself the best in acetate.”

Ring by Suzy Glam in epoxy and wood
Ring by Suzy Glam in epoxy and wood

What advice would you give to designers/students who wish to enter the optical design world today? “What advice? Hmmm…same as for every design direction student; keep it close to you. I don’t believe in marketing research. Sure it can work out for earning money, but for satisfaction…..besides that, you can compare it to fashion: a trend is always coming out of a fresh, creative mind, and never out of marketing.” Anything else you would like to include? “About your site: I’m happy that this kind of platform exists, before I designed eyewear, I wasn’t aware of that. It helps to pull the optical world out of the traditionally, dusty profession, where it sometimes still is.” www.suzyglam.com  JG Photos: Image of Susanne Klemm and Etienne Frederiks exclusively for Eyestylist by Gilles Stüssi Frame photo: Dick Kikstra

Innovation in Innsbruck

ROLF Eco-Friendly Boutique

1st December 2013 When I arrived at the Innsbruck train station, I was gallantly whisked off with Bernie Wolf to visit the new boutique – Wolf Meister Optik – owned by his brother Stefan. After only a few years in the business, the Wolf family are already an Austrian eyewear legacy – Roland, Bernie and Christian form part of The Rolf Team in The Tyrol, and Stefan is an optician. Earlier this year, he opened this smart little shop in Innsbruck. The location is a rejuvenated area that is enjoying a renaissance with chic shops, galleries, restaurants and cafés. The neighbourhood is drawing clients who appreciate quality and individualism – and for Stefan’s shop – customers who appreciate finely crafted frames.

Stefan’s concept for the boutique is to present “la crème de la crème” of eyewear, and he features Jérémy Tarian, L.G.R., Persol, Silhouette, and of course, Rolf Spectacles winning designs, plus others.  An eco-friendly atmosphere prevails with the décor in lovely natural woods. Many of the display items have been made and polished by the family. The “eye catcher” is an antique cabinet from the 1950’s, with multiple individual drawers – perfect for holding frames – practical and unique. www.wolf-optik.at JG

Isabella Blow:Fashion Galore!

Somerset House Celebrates British Fashion Patron

1st December 2013 Elegant Somerset House in London is the venue for a major fashion exhibition celebrating the extraordinary life and wardrobe of Isabella Blow – the late British fashion icon and muse. On show are over one hundred items from her incredibly rich fashion collection, one of the most important private collections of late 20th Century/early 21st Century British fashion design, and now owned by another style icon, Daphne Guinness. This includes garments from the designer talents Isabella discovered and launched, including Alexander McQueen, Philip Treacy, Hussein Chalayan and Julien Macdonald amongst others.

Blow was born in 1950’s post-war Britian, with a family history that can be traced back to the 14th Century. Highlights of the exhibition include family photographs and the sculpture entitled “Isabella Blow” by Tim Noble and Sue Webster. At the graduate shows from Central Saint Martins and the Royal College of Art, she discovered Alexander McQueen and Philip Treacy. Isabella had an amazing eye for spotting talent, and then wore the designer’s clothes everywhere to showcase their creativity. Her collection included designs by McQueen, Fendi, Dior, Prada, Viktor and Rolf, John Galliano for Dior, Manolo Blahnik and Marni, plus wonderful hats from Treacy – all on display at the exhibition.

Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore! is a fitting tribute to a woman who loved fashion and did so much to promote British designers. Until 2 March 2014. www.somersethouse.org.uk JG

Photo: Isabella Blow and Philip Treacy 2003 by Donald McPherson

Gold fever

1st December 2013 Completely irresistible chic gold items for the festive season…we think we’ve found some really splendid ones, each one showing off the luxurious quality of this elegant precious metal that is very much in vogue again. Meet two special jewellery companies – creative uber-chic designer Kirsten Goss – www.kirstengoss.com, and the acclaimed Belgian designers, Wouters & Hendrix – www.wouters-hendrix.com. In eyewear, we found many different expressions of the gold theme including exceptional hand-finished gold designs that revisit the refined elegance of precious metal in spectacle design. CN

1. Songbird by Barton Perreira, www.bartonperreira.com  2. Gold cuff by Wouters & Hendrix, www.wouters-hendrix.com 3. Ring by Wouters & Hendrix 4. Zero 01, gold aviator, Finest Seven, www.finestseven.com 5. Mia hoops by Kirsten Goss, £95.00, www.kirstengoss.com  6. Ring by Wouters & Hendrix, as before 7. Feather pendant by Wouters & Hendrix 8. Velma cuff, £265, by Kirsten Goss 9. Ventura by BOZ, Fabulous Papers collection, www.boz-eyewear.fr