is our passion at Eyestylist, and this month you’ll find unique designs destined to capture your imagination and desire. Click on REVIEWS for the latest frames, and see BOUTIQUES for an original Paris shop. Designer of the Month spotlights a young German creator, and discover Woman Fashion Power in CITY GUIDES. Remember to sign up for Eyestylist Exclusives – our monthly newsletter with additional fashion and accessory excitement.
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28th November 2014 It’s ski and winter sport season! A time for fun, style and safety on the slopes. Ski goggles add a dramatic, dashing accent to ski wear, and Götti’s new snow goggles are the ideal accessory.
Brilliant technical features – including a flexible and resistant matt finish rubber, polycarbonate mirror 400 UV lenses, plus an anti-fog system – ensure lightweight comfort as well as style.
The impressive design is available in fabulous colours too – black with blue mirror lenses; white with red mirror lenses; and yellow with shiny gold mirror lenses. www.gotti.chJG
25th November 2014 Today Eyestylist launches a new series – Eyewear Canine Companions. We have discovered some amazing four-footers who bring joy, fun, companionship and inspiration to designers and opticians.
When Eric Balzan chats about his dog Cody, his face beams. “Cody is a rescue dog and I just fell in love with him. He’s a mixed race dog that we found at a dog shelter. We were told there were a few problems with his eyes and he doesn’t hear very well. It didn’t matter – I fell in love with that one! Once Cody was out of the shelter, he changed. I brought him up to the mountain and he walked behind me. The only problem was that he was then so tired he couldn’t walk down! So I carried him down, and he loves the rucksack.”
Balzan and the mountains are ubiquitous – it was during a mountain exploration that Balzan and his design partner Mirko Forte discovered the glacier military goggles that launched their business. Now Cody is part of the designer’s trekking and hiking. “Cody is my best design inspiration when we are in the mountains,” says Balzan,” and he really enjoys it all.
“Unfortunately, with Cody’s eye problems, when the light goes down, he would fall over. We tried different doctors, and discovered it was cataracts. We had a drive with family and friends to raise funds for an operation. The vet was an hour and forty minutes drive away, but Cody had the operation, and he has recovered his sight. He is always with my wife Antonella and I – we take him everywhere including art exhibitions. He is a very cultured dog!” www.hapter.itJG
21st November 2014In colour psychology, green has a variety of positive attributes – green is abundant in nature, and it is connected to prosperity. It’s also linked to renewal, balance, and growth, and creates a positive sense of equilibrium. In addition, green is emotionally positive. Eyewear designers embrace this colour with an array of beautiful greens in dynamic frames. At one time, there was a belief that green was difficult to wear on the face. Nowadays, green frames are available in lustrous, translucent interpretations that enhance the wearer’s complexion. Here are several stunning ways to Go Green.
Above: Jono Hennessy in Australia takes a cue from nature in a Limited Edition design – 8302 – in acetate. www.jonohennessy.com
Jazzy green is the theme at theo in Belgium with Move from the Shuffle collection – bright and cheerful! www.theo.be
Rich Forest Green is the preferred choice for Zac Posen with Rita – poetic acetate sunglasses. www.kenmarkoptical.com
Marbled Green with luminous highlights is a striking new design from François Pinton in France. Coachella emphasizes sharp, strong lines with a chic, modern retro tone. The frame is available in both optical and sunglasses. www.francoispinton.comJG
18th November 2014 Many of us fancy having multiple selections when deciding what fashion and accessories to wear. Eyewear designers do! So how do they decide what frames they want to wear on a given day?
Shane Baum has created his American luxury brand Leisure Society in exquisite materials based on how he lives his life. Baum believes that life is about precious moments with family, friends and nature – one of his passions is fly-fishing,and skiing gets full marks too. “Today I am in a sporty mood, so I chose Trotter (above) from the new collection,” said Baum when photographed in Paris, “but for a wedding I would chose something different. It really does depend…”
Beauty, romance, and statement shapes are the foundation for Swedish designer Anna-Karin Karlsson. She loves to experiment and create fantasy. Karlsson says: “Sunglasses should always be ready to put on – they provide a great uplift to the face. I wear sunglasses – winter and summer – all year ’round. I’m wearing When Trouble Came To Town – my favourite right now”! www.annakarinkarlsson.comJG
Photos: Exclusively for Eyestylist by Gilles Stüssi — All Rights Reserved
14th November 2014A new advertising campaign by Roman label Mondelliani features a community of stylish “Sapeurs” who dress with a uniquely elegant and colourful sense of style.
La Sape (The Society of Ambiance-Makers and Elegant People) is a social movement which originated in Brazzaville, the capital of the Republic of Congo. The movement embodies a throwback of elegance, style and manners of their French and Belgian colonial predecessors. Young Congolese men took their style from the dandies of the time, a look which is in stark contrast with the poor environment that they live in.
Photographed in Brussels, the images of the men and several women for Mondelliani are the work of Italian photographer Daniele Tamagni who has documented African communities worldwide and published a well-known book on the subject – Gentlemen of Bacongo: The Importance of Being Elegant.
Highlighted are some of Mondelliani’s most colourful sunglasses, including designs from the Eolie Capsule line, celebrating the colours and vibrance of the landscapes of the Sicilian islands.
Mondelliani glasses are now available at leading opticians including Auerbach & Steele, Chelsea, London; Studio Optix, New York; and Optica Toscana, Madrid. For more on the Sapeurs, visit the photographer’s website at www.danieletamagni.com.
11th November 2014Luca Gnecchi Ruscone at L.G.R. in Italy has launched a pioneering, striking new collection, crafted with durable metal alloy. The designs are super slim and light with exquisite shapes, and mineral glass lenses signed by L.G. R. Streamlined Mauritius (above) features a curved nosepiece, and Elliot (not shown) is a splendid round shape with tortoiseshell-rimmed lenses.
An adventurous spirit is expressed in Dahlak (above) with a double nose bridge and traditional artisan italian craftsmanship. Minimal eyewear silhouettes in the finest materials and expertly crafted, add to the quality and originality of frame design. These new creations from L.G.R are particularly beautiful. www.lgrworld.comJG
November 2014 Opened in May this year, independent accessory brand Triwa’s new Stockholm flagship is the work of Swedish architects Elding Oscarson. Located close to the city’s fashionable centre on Grev Turegatan, a pedestrian shopping street, the boutique has been designed to present the entire range of Triwa watches and sunglasses and offers a welcoming contemporary space with neon signs, gold metal lights and creative displays.
Founded in 2007, Triwa produces luxury watches known for their quality and timeless style; they are available at leading fashion stores including Liberty’s of London. The Triwa sunglasses collection combines classic shapes with modern details such as lenses from Optics by Carl Zeiss (affordable prices from £149.00) and signature coloured temple ends. As the brand expands, we hope to take a closer look at the full collection, watches too!
TRIWA, Grev Turegatan 13, 114 46 Stockholm, Sweden.www.triwa.comCN
7th November 2014 Blue is an amazingly adaptable colour – it is the colour of the ocean and sky; it is the colour of trust, peace, and loyalty; plus the national colour of many countries; and it’s linked to calm and solitude. Blue also claims significant importance in eyewear, with designers creating frames in the most beautiful blue tones. Among our favourites: Lafont’s Phedre (above) a stunning frame in Sea Blue acetate, with a delicate hint of vintage. www.lafont.com
A bright bold beauty in contrasting tones – Midnight Sky Split – harmonize in Vaporetto by l.a. Eyeworks. www.laeyeworks.com
Sky Blue lenses and Crystal acetate in a distinctive square shape highlights Mondelliani’s Tumbler. www.mondelliani.it
Boccalova! A super sunglass design from the Bocca series by Face à Face Paris in a strong shape – and check out the temple tips with a dash of sunny yellow! www.faceaface-paris.com
Vera Wang’s elegant sunglasses feature a voluminous, fluid shape that reflect ocean tones, waves, and sand. A beauty for the beach! www.kenmarkoptical.com JG
5th November 2014A fresh take on floral prints has rather won us over in the latest collection launch by Etnia Barcelona: Art Flowers. With the collaboration of Mazzucchelli, leading producer of acetate in Italy, the Spanish design firm has come up with a lively collection of expressive frames for men and women, celebrating flower-inspired colour and pattern in beautiful, delicate, and appealing ways. Inspired by the impressionists, the frames are “trimmed” with the floral-inspired bloc acetate material. The shapes are minimal to allow the decorative elements a central focus.
The 100% eco-friendly material used is manufactured with natural organic compounds such as cotton and cellulose paste, and is totally recyclable and biodegradable. Another bonus! Find out more: www.etniabarcelona.comCN
1st November 2014 It’s a brilliant edgy concept “for Shaves, Shades & Shapes” in the centre of Paris, where you can have a cool Parisian cut and select your next favourite frame. Located off the busy Rue de Rivoli in a cosy village-like atmosphere with several interesting bars and restaurants, the owners of La Shaperie are optical people with a terrific passion for independent labels.
“I’ve worked in the States for Selima Bond St, I have a close relationship with the US label Coco & Breezy, and I’m working as a distributor with new cutting-edge European labels like Hapter,” explained co-owner Hedi Hamdi. “I opened La Shaperie in April 2013 with Jey Noname. “I ran a completely different optical store previously in Place de Clichy but this concept is the one I love. We are doing half our business on eyewear and half with the barbers, and while you might not expect it we see as many women as we do men. We plan to open our second store in 2015 in another central location in Paris. Watch and see!”
The accessory selection at La Shaperie includes hats (Moodwoot luxury hats) and cool eyewear to fit with hair trends. Hard-to-find labels are showcased around the store: at present Coco & Breezy, GRAZ, Eyevan7285, Masunaga 1905, D’Blanc, handpicked vintage frames and the very latest addition in October – Hapter from Italy. Hamdi promises more coming up soon, and always “well made interesting design”. We’ll be looking out for what’s coming next.
La Shaperie, Optic, Hat & Barber Shop, 62 Rue de L’Arbre Sec, 75001 Paris, France http://lashaperie.tumblr.com Follow La Shaperie on Twitter @La_Shaperie
From a new eponymous collection by a designer who first came to optics as the creator and designer of KATA, the Blake Kuwahara line is made by hand in Japan. I first met Blake when I started as a trade journalist in the eyewear sector in 1999, and was told by senior editors he was one of the most important trendsetting designers at the time. Today he expresses his eyewear passion once again in a collection that is elegant, understated, imaginative and executed with precision and attention to detail.
Style Corbu expresses the key concept of the collection, as Kuwahara explained to Eyestylist at Silmo: “I’ve taken familiar eye shapes but encapsulate them in a nontraditional surrounding shape. By making a “frame within a frame” the juxtaposition of shapes and colours creates a design tension that is fresh and quite unexpected.” The collection launches with nine unisex optical styles and nine sunglass styles. www.blakekuwahara.comCN
Generous proportions enhance beautiful sunglasses from British brand Finest 7 in a new colour – soft, harmonious Blush acetate. A sculpted cut-out nose piece, and detailed gold metal temples complete the ultra-glamorous look. Exquisite handcrafting excellence! www.finestseven.comJG
Coming soon to very chic shops including Opening Ceremony and Eye Society! Mutato is one of the new styles from a collaborative line by Mark Mothersbaugh (front man for Devo and eyewear enthusiast) with eyewear designer Shane Baum. Bold and artistic, the frames are statement geometric designs with lots of luxury features – including silver reflective mirror coated lenses. A scholarly shape, Mutato is created – interestingly- in Beryllium metal, with a stainless steel chrome finish. It’s light, strong (six times stronger that steel) and resistant to tarnish and corrosion, as well as offering a unique bright greyish-tone surface shine. Find more on this collection at: www.eyesocietyonline.comCN
New blood from Japan….We have our eye on Japan and a group of rising young designers who focus on specialist artisan production and innovative small collections. I have been following Padma Image for a few months as their designs are available in a large number of Japanese optical stores including ‘eyewearshop’ (Asahikawa City) and The Glasses (Imabari-city) . Created by 28 year old Yuuki Hasui the collection is only available in Japan for the moment, but the designer tells Eyestylist he expects to launch in Europe and the US shortly. Made in Kagawa Prefecture, ‘Padma’ means lotus in Sanskrit and it is the designer’s nickname. “My aim is to create glasses that are comfortable but with something unique, with a certain fashion appeal that is right for today.” Hasui uses vintage acetate he found in a factory in Fukui for its smooth and beautiful features. The elegant handmade shapes and shiny finish are very attractive yet understated. We are watching this label for the future and we have spied some wonderful shapes that are innovative and eye-catching for the eyewear connoisseur. http://padma-image.petit.cc/ CN
Semi-rimless frames are enjoying a welcome renaissance, with chic variations. Among the most elegant for women is a super slim Titanium design by Line Art Opera, and lyrical temples illuminated with shimmering Swarovski crystals. Inspired by the harmony and beauty of music, the designs have subtle luxury and supreme comfort. XL2005 is available in three gorgeous colours – Rich Burgundy (above), Cocoa and Gold. www.charmant.com JG
Fabian Hoffmann at Coblens merges style directions of both slim and volume in this striking sunglass design. The lower rim of the frame is crafted in trim proportions, with graceful volume on the sides and upper rim. Intense burgendy acetate provides additional glamour and luxury. Coblens offers a diverse collection of optical and sunglass designs – more information at www.coblens.com JG
1st November 2014 Join the cool brigade with a dual-tone sunglass or spectacle style. This theme was a popular one at the Paris eyewear show and will have a growing following in 2015, with sun or optical lenses.
Favourites at Eyestylist included the natural finish acetates by ic! berlin – models 61 Freiheit (below) and M5 Hackescher Markt (pictured above). With subdued shadowy acetate colours inspired by earthy tones such as flint grey and sediment brown, the styles are produced with a rough finish – another trend we expect to see more of – to create an immediate connection to the natural world. www.ic-berlin.de
Also on the must-see list are Res/Rei’s luxurious modern-day classics in Mazzucchelli acetate. Styles Giulietta and Marco Polo (below) have perfectly paired dual colorations which play with classical tortoise tones and contrasting blocked colour with a refined translucence.
The lustrous finish of the acetate material is the result of extensive hand polishing and adds extra panache to the final effect. RES/REI frames are produced in Italy with production methods that remain faithful to traditional principles of spectacle making.
1st November 2014 Clothes have always been a powerful form of self-expression for women – from Elizabeth 1, to Margaret Thatcher, and Coco Chanel to Lady Gaga – and an essential part of a sophisticated visual language. An exceptional new exhibition at London’s Design Museum brings together a fabulous showcase of clothing, photography, archive footage and interviews with twenty-five influential women who have used fashion to define and enhance their position in the world.
Donna Loveday, Head of Curatorial at the Design Museum and co-curator of the exhibition said: “All of the women we invited to contribute to the exhibition were chosen because they are leaders in their field, and they understand that the clothes they wear are a part of the way that they communicate with the world.”
WOMEN FASHION POWER examines the last 150 years of women’s fashion from the restrictive boned corsets of the nineteenth century to the statement Louboutin heels of today. Included among the women profiled are: Joan Burstein, founder of Browns in London; Livia Firth, Creative Director of Eco Age; Princess Charlène of Monaco; Anne Hidalgo, Mayor of Paris; Charlotte Olympia, Designer; Dame Zandra Rhodes and Dame Vivienne Westwood, both designers. Archive clothes include a suit worn by Margaret Thatcher when she was elected leader of the Conservative party in 1975; and a dress worn by Diana, Princess of Wales on the occasion of her 36th birthday, plus items from Elsa Schiaparelli, and Yves Saint Laurent.
Fashion commentator Collin McDowell observed: “This exhibition shows how women have used different approaches to dress in order to make statements which are unique to them and their personalities. They create their own wardrobes, not to be fashion plates but to demonstrate who and what they are.” WOMEN FASHION POWER at the Design Museum Shad Thames, London SE1 Through 26 April 2015 www.designmuseum.orgJG
Top photo: Dame Zandra Rhodes photographed by John Swannell
1st November 2014 The lustrous lightweight metal Titanium was the benchmark idea for Adrian Marwitz to pursue his teenage dream. “The idea came to me when I was seventeen. I dreamed about making frames in this material and having them handcrafted in Germany,” recalls Marwitz. But before Adrian realised his ambition, he trained as an optician in Berlin, where he was born. With heritage eyewear genes already in Adrian’s DNA – his grandfather founded Marwitz Eyewear in nineteen eighteen, and his father is Hans-Joachim of Conquistador – perhaps it was inevitable that Marwitz would follow an optical path. However, like many offspring of established families, he wanted to strike out on his own, and started his company eighteen months ago.
“Unfortunately, I never met my grandfather, he died the year before I was born. However, I liked his philosophy of focusing on quality and good shapes. That concept, plus my love of travel definitely influences what I design. Italy, Asia, Thailand, Japan – different countries and cultures are inspiring. I recently went to Scotland and I loved the beautiful landscape – but the weather is not very good! I also visited a Scottish distillery and tried whiskey; you feel the Scottish life!” Marwitz also finds London exhilarating. “I love this city,” he says enthusiastically, “with all its different cultures and wonderful food.”
An unusual influence that motivates Marwitz designs is shoes. “Yes, shoe shapes, including Dutch shoes, are inspirational, and I like to play with colours, but in everything I do, I like minimal style, pure and uncluttered.” Streamline shapes are the Marwitz signature, everything handmade in Germany, so he is hands-on for quality and precision control. Are there other items or different materials in which he would like to work? “”That is an interesting question! People frequently ask if I will make acetate frames, but I think it might be a mistake. My brand is getting known for high-quality Titanium. Sometimes I think I would like to make furniture – that could be very interesting, perhaps to make a Titanium chair. Maybe in the next few years, I’ll do something totally different!” www.adrianmarwitz.comJG
Photo of Adrian Marwitz exclusively for Eyestylist by Gilles Stüssi All Rights Reserved