November 2014

XL2005

Line Art Opera

Semi-rimless frames are enjoying a welcome renaissance, with chic variations. Among the most elegant for women is a super slim Titanium design by Line Art Opera, and lyrical temples illuminated with shimmering Swarovski crystals. Inspired by the harmony and beauty of music, the designs have subtle luxury and supreme comfort.  XL2005 is available in three gorgeous colours – Rich Burgundy (above), Cocoa and Gold. www.charmant.com JG

 

Sitzplatznummer

Coblens

Fabian Hoffmann at Coblens merges style directions of both slim and volume in this striking sunglass design. The lower rim of the frame is crafted in trim proportions, with graceful volume on the sides and upper rim. Intense burgendy acetate provides additional glamour and luxury. Coblens offers a diverse collection of optical and sunglass designs – more information at www.coblens.com JG

 

Trends: The two-tone front

…is having a moment

1st November 2014 Join the cool brigade with a dual-tone sunglass or spectacle style. This theme was a popular one at the Paris eyewear show and will have a growing following in 2015, with sun or optical lenses.

Favourites at Eyestylist included the natural finish acetates by ic! berlin – models 61 Freiheit (below) and M5 Hackescher Markt (pictured above). With subdued shadowy acetate colours inspired by earthy tones such as flint grey and sediment brown, the styles are produced with a rough finish – another trend we expect to see more of –  to create an immediate connection to the natural world. www.ic-berlin.de

ic! berlin
61 Freiheit by ic! berlin

Also on the must-see list are Res/Rei’s luxurious modern-day classics in Mazzucchelli acetate. Styles Giulietta and Marco Polo (below) have perfectly paired dual colorations which play with classical tortoise tones and contrasting blocked colour with a refined translucence.

Marco Polo by RES/REI
Marco Polo by RES/REI

The lustrous finish of the acetate material is the result of extensive hand polishing and adds extra panache to the final effect. RES/REI frames are produced in Italy with production methods that remain faithful to traditional principles of spectacle making.

Giulietta from RES/REI
Giulietta by RES/REI

Visit the website to find out more about the collection: www.resrei.com For more on RES/REI’s founder, Oliviero Zanon, click on https://www.eyestylist.com/2013/05/oliviero-zanon/ CN

 

Women Fashion Power

High-Profile Women Celebrated at Design Museum

1st November 2014 Clothes have always been a powerful form of self-expression for women – from Elizabeth 1, to Margaret Thatcher, and Coco Chanel to Lady Gaga –  and an essential part of a sophisticated visual language. An exceptional new exhibition at London’s Design Museum brings together a fabulous showcase of clothing, photography, archive footage and interviews with twenty-five influential women who have used fashion to define and enhance their position in the world.

 

Margaret Thatcher Suit Courtesy of Christie's
Margaret Thatcher Suit Courtesy of Christie’s

Donna Loveday, Head of Curatorial at the Design Museum and co-curator of the exhibition said: “All of the women we invited to contribute to the exhibition were chosen because they are leaders in their field, and they understand that the clothes they wear are a part of the way that they communicate with the world.”

Joan Burstein Founder of Browns London photographed by Billie Sheepers
Joan Burstein Founder of Browns London photographed by Billie Sheepers

WOMEN FASHION POWER examines the last 150 years of women’s fashion from the restrictive boned corsets of the nineteenth century to the statement Louboutin heels of today. Included among the women profiled are: Joan Burstein, founder of Browns in London; Livia Firth, Creative Director of Eco Age; Princess Charlène of Monaco; Anne Hidalgo, Mayor of Paris; Charlotte Olympia, Designer; Dame Zandra Rhodes and Dame Vivienne Westwood, both designers. Archive clothes include a suit worn by Margaret Thatcher when she was elected leader of the Conservative party in 1975; and a dress worn by Diana, Princess of Wales on the occasion of  her 36th birthday, plus items from Elsa Schiaparelli, and Yves Saint Laurent.

 

Anne Hidalgo Mayor of Paris photographed by Jean-Baptiste Gurliat
Anne Hidalgo Mayor of Paris photographed by Jean-Baptiste Gurliat

Fashion commentator Collin McDowell observed: “This exhibition shows how women have used different approaches to dress in order to make statements which are unique to them and their personalities. They create their own wardrobes, not to be fashion plates but to demonstrate who and what they are.” WOMEN FASHION POWER at the Design Museum Shad Thames, London SE1 Through 26 April 2015 www.designmuseum.org JG

Top photo: Dame Zandra Rhodes photographed by John Swannell

Adrian Marwitz

1st November 2014  The lustrous lightweight metal Titanium was the benchmark idea for Adrian Marwitz to pursue his teenage dream. “The idea came to me when I was seventeen. I dreamed about making frames in this material and having them handcrafted in Germany,” recalls Marwitz. But before Adrian realised his ambition, he trained as an optician in Berlin, where he was born. With heritage eyewear genes already in Adrian’s DNA – his grandfather founded Marwitz Eyewear in nineteen eighteen, and his father is Hans-Joachim of Conquistador – perhaps it was inevitable that Marwitz would follow an optical path. However, like many offspring of established families, he wanted to strike out on his own, and started his company eighteen months ago.

 

Streamlined Titanium Eyewear by Adrian Marwitz
Streamlined Titanium Eyewear by Adrian Marwitz

“Unfortunately, I never met my grandfather, he died the year before I was born. However, I liked his philosophy of focusing on quality and good shapes. That concept, plus my love of travel definitely influences what I design. Italy, Asia, Thailand, Japan – different countries and cultures are inspiring. I recently went to Scotland and I loved the beautiful landscape – but the weather is not very good! I also visited a Scottish distillery and tried whiskey; you feel the Scottish life!” Marwitz also finds London exhilarating. “I love this city,” he says enthusiastically, “with all its different cultures and wonderful food.”

 

Stranger No. 1 in Olive Green Titanium by Adrian Marwitz
Stranger No. 1 in Olive Green Titanium by Adrian Marwitz

An unusual influence that motivates Marwitz designs is shoes. “Yes, shoe  shapes, including Dutch shoes, are inspirational, and I like to play with colours, but in everything I do, I like minimal style, pure and uncluttered.” Streamline shapes are the Marwitz signature, everything handmade in Germany, so he is hands-on for quality and precision control. Are there other items or different materials in which he would like to work? “”That is an interesting question! People frequently ask if I will make acetate frames, but I think it might be a mistake. My brand is getting known for high-quality Titanium. Sometimes I think I would like to make furniture – that could be very interesting, perhaps to make a Titanium chair. Maybe in the next few years, I’ll do something totally different!” www.adrianmarwitz.com JG

Photo of Adrian Marwitz exclusively for Eyestylist by Gilles Stüssi All Rights Reserved