Fusing modern materials together in one small spectacle design is an art, and one at which the finest of the independent labels excel. The modern style of the Edward frame by Fleye Copenhagen – one of Denmark’s leaders in fine frame creation – is an example of a combination in raw carbon fibre, colored wood and beta-titanium, where each material complements another, balancing lightness and comfort, alongside contemporary style and design. Above: model Edward by Fleye Copenhagen – a round eye shape with narrow beta titanium bridge and hinge detail
“Each frame is the intersection of craft and art, representing our vision for modern designs, crafted to last.” Fleye Copenhagen
Part of the Elements of Art collection, a range designed as a tribute to the Thorvaldsens Museum in Copenhagen, achieved through a thorough and complex project of experimentation and creative research, this frame offers a shape suited to men and women, with exceptional refinement in the finish and the surface pattern of the wood and an interesting minimal colour palette, reproduced with skill and precision in different artistic combinations.
The Parisian label proposes a new visual experience in its latest collections. Hollow, a concept playing with transparency, neon and multi-textured surfaces is one of the highlights in the collection for the season to come.
Bold. Intense. Almost dizzying. With artistic references, interpreted in creative “graphic effects”. Hollow by FACE A FACE is one of the concept styles for the new season, a grouping of frames crafted in homage to artists of extraordinary stature: Escher, Vasarely and Bridget Riley. Above: the new FACE A FACE campaign, featuring the Hollow frame.
Hollow1 – now available in 8 individualistic colorways, is at its most dramatic in the new flash blue under a contrasting shocking fresh papaya tone that highlights the details. Furthermore, the style boasts a precision machined shaping under the temple, with a front that displays different layers to create texture and an illusion of light. The frame is closely inspired by Bridget Riley and her works where geometry and optical effects are explored along with exciting notions of how to combine colours where the tones boldly echo one another and interact together.
In Hollow3, neon touches punctuate the completely clear temple tips, and seem to be suspended in the air; the glittery and pearly tones highlight the futuristic spirit of the design.
Created in Paris more than 20 years ago, FACE A FACE has become a contemporary reference in eyewear. Inspired by the boldness of modern art – a beloved theme of creative director Pascal Jaulent – the brand remains audacious and avant-garde while displaying a creativity in colours and expressions that has brought them recognition and accolades through many years. For further details: www.faceaface-paris.com
Written by Clodagh Norton, Eyestylist.com – all rights reserved.
Traditional Italian stores, Ottica Rossi and sister store Ottica Talluto, dedicated to professionalism and an offer of unique eyewear, have an established authentic history of serving their community. The owner Luca Rossi told us he has added his own limited sunglasses line to his selection of eyewear – a project he has dedicated to the local people and the beautiful landscapes of the Tuscan region.
In the dreamy seaside towns of Orbetello and Maremma (Tuscany), Luca Rossi’s traditional optical boutiques – Ottica Rossi and Ottica Talluto – offer a combination of traditional eyecare services with a wide choice of frames and sunglasses – selected for the local community and, in normal seasons, a stream of tourists and visitors who come to the area for sun and relaxation. The eyewear collections in the stores currently include famous fashion collections and independent brands Barton Perreira, Seeoo and Maui Jim, as well as the Italian classic, Persol.
Rossi’s dedication and passion for his work has culminated in a new project in 2020. The optician has created his own collection of 10 sunglass models, produced locally in Italy and inspired by the location of the stores. Featuring classic colours of ochre, tortoise and black and retro-inspired shapes popularised by the stars of the Italian cinema of the 1950s and 60s the line is designed as a connection to the local Italian region, with a nostalgic and classical style, a nod to “la dolce vita”.
About – In the heart of Porto Santo Stefano, overlooking the sea, Talluto Ottica first opened in 1987, to serve the local community and tourists visiting the town. Ottica Rossi is located in Porto Santo Stefano, close to the sea front. Today both stores are run by optician, optometrist and contactologist Luca Rossi. www.otticarossi.it Written by Clodagh Norton – all rights reserved
Continuing its roll-out of new stores with a focus on cities closer to home, MYKITA has opened their first Hamburg store at Neuer Wall 88.
Located between the city’s canals and shopping boulevards, the shop brings the distinctively modern design aesthetic of the Berlin brand to the heritage-listed Stadthöfe, a recently restored architectural ensemble steeped in baroque and neo-renaissance style.
The fourth shop to open in Germany, it offers MYKITA’s comprehensive range of optical services using state-of-the-art instruments from optical partner, Zeiss. The full MYKITA product portfolio is available – the ultra-light stainless steel eyewear designs, mixed material models, and award-winning MYKITA MYLON collection made with 3D printing technology – as well as the design collaborations with Maison Margiela, Helmut Lang, and Leica.
Neon signage marks the street-level shop location in the ‘Palaishaus’ built in 1881. Once inside the six-metre high doorway, visitors are welcomed into a modern, warm atmosphere with a seated consultation area, providing an unrushed and comfortable space to receive a personal and professional optical service. Eyes are immediately drawn to the open mezzanine level and the view of the optical lab and workshop used for in-store frame adjustments and lens fittings. Construction details and furnishings in a deep orange shade break up the reigning warm, neutral tones of wood and stone.
In addition to the MYKITA Shop Hamburg, the brand now has 14 shops worldwide, including locations in Bangkok, Barcelona, Berlin, Cartagena, Los Angeles, Monterrey, Munich, New York, Paris, Taipei, Tokyo, Washington and Zurich. For more information visit www.mykita.com
Luxurious, design-focused and crafted in the Jura, the team behind up-and-coming eco brand Shelter says their passion is creativity and working with natural wood.
The main collection – Renaissance, featuring compressed wood layers and metal, is based around an intense 2-year development for a patent. “The frames are light, thin yet flexible and strong,” Amicie de Bouteiller told Eyestylist in an interview this week. “We developed them making sure that the lenses can easily be placed in the frame. The Smartwood patent is in the glue and the technique we have developed for compressing the thin layers of wood.” Above: model Gabrielle by Shelter worn by Agnès.
A second collection, Douce France, which takes as its reference from the beauty of the French forests, features bio-acetate with the essence and “feeling” of different types of French wood, a choice which includes palm, spruce, walnut burl and crab apple. The materials in this line are exclusively recycled or recyclable.
Making their first appearance at Silmo, the Paris optical fair, in 2018, Shelter who are based in Cran Gevrier, Annecy exhibited at the recent Silmo Hors Les Murs, this year’s “substitute road show” event which opened in Paris in Jardin des Tuileries in October.
The brand’s commitment to sustainable values and eco-friendly production is manifested in many ways from the selection of materials – which includes upcycled wood sheets from the French specialists Marotte – and a commitment to a philosophy of “less is more”: “for each new frame, we attach a real importance to not being wasteful in the use of the primary material.” Find out more at: www.shelter-manufacture.com
FRAME CHAIN – The pain of misplacing your favourite pair of glasses is something we can all relate to, Annie and Vanessa – the founders of FRAME CHAIN, are no different. It was after losing countless pairs of designer sunglasses that the epiphany of FRAME CHAIN came to light; not only an efficient and aesthetic solution to an everyday problem, but one that doubles as a high-quality piece of glamorous jewellery. This brand has given a resurgence to the glasses chain I once knew to be a “grandma staple” – now spotted on catwalks from Gucci to Chanel, and available across luxury department stores and retail outlets worldwide.
I would love to know a little bit about the founders of FRAME CHAIN, could you tell us a little about how you two came together? Annie: My path wasn’t really linear, I was obsessed with the entertainment industry for most of my life – a failed professional singer/dancer, so, I headed into marketing in the music and film industry. That was in-spite of studying biology, chemistry and maths beforehand – I wanted to be a surgeon at one point and a lawyer at another. It was my marketing degree that really kept me interested, though. I met Vanessa when I was working temporarily at Oasis – I had fallen up an escalator with a tray of cupcakes, and she was the designated first aid / Visual Merchandising extraordinaire. I consulted in a number of jobs – always in industries facing huge change; I was at Nokia and Microsoft before going to LOEWE. I have almost always had another job as well as FRAME CHAIN, topping up with consulting gigs along the way.
Vanessa: I started off by studying textiles at Loughborough University, as part of my degree I decided to do a year in industry working for a print fashion studio in London – here, I fell in-love with fashion and interior design. After I graduated I dabbled in different areas in the industry, which enabled me to set up my own business in interior styling. I met Annie when I worked in Visual Merchandising and I thought “Oh my life who is this girl?” – the rest is history, she is the best business partner and friend in the world. Above: Vanessa (left) and Annie (right) of FRAME CHAIN, London outside a FRAME CHAIN event at Cutler & Gross
Why do you think glasses chains, which are obviously a necessity to many of us, disappeared in the first place? We always say they didn’t really disappear – they just became less popular – along with trends like MC hammer pants, mullets, stone wash denim, smiley T’s or kick flares. Then, like all good things – they come back eventually; with the help of some tireless plugging, a little bit of luck and a lot of hard work.
Until recent years glasses chains were seen as something only grandmothers wore – my grandma wore fabulous gold chain ones and some with tiny freshwater pearls – I would kill for them now; what do you think enabled the resurgence of glasses chains as a popular ‘trendy’ accessory? We love this question – go Grandma! There are all kinds of theories about how trends start, and now there is social media to add to the mix; how many people carry a smartphone in their pocket? That brings with it an inevitable shift of behaviour and constant communication, plus there is also a complete democratisation of retail with ecommerce. Before things like Shopify or Instagram we had to solely rely on the taste levels of buyers to add products to a store – so the momentum was strained – now people can build a ‘direct to consumer’ brand in a matter of weeks. We were lucky that the independent eyewear business seemed to kick off around the same time we got started; people generally wanted to consume differently and independent eyewear brands became a much more visible thing. We found people who understood what we were doing and began to grow day by day, chain by chain, customer by customer…we restricted access and focused on fashion accounts. I think we really hit momentum when Browns and Matchesfashion approached us, then, about 2 years ago – Gucci, Chanel, and Berluti were just a few of the brands beginning to push glasses chains down the runway. Brands like those highly validate a trend indeed, now everyone – Gentle Monster, Kaleos and Linda Farrow are echoing what we have created.
One thing I find particularly interesting with FRAME CHAIN is the ability to use the glasses chain as jewellery; are the chains utilised more as jewellery or as chains? Annie: Our concept was to create a chain that could double as jewellery with 100% true equal use. Vanessa was a jewellery designer and really insisted on this feature as she didn’t wear glasses, even now she rarely even wears them; she really saw it as something else. I wanted something practical that looked good – Vanessa gave it a beautiful spin and a big point of difference from the very beginning. Judging from what we see on social and in the street, it’s probably 50/50 in terms of how our chains are worn.
The new VINTAGE DISCO collection is fabulous – it seems to encapsulate everything the young people are craving across the world right now; dancing, glamour, getting dolled up and having a good time. Was the inspiration for this collection ignited pre or post pandemic? Also, if you could dress as though you were from only one era of style, what would it be and why? Annie: I love this question. Without fail, it would be the 70’s for me; disco, denim, glam, slogan t-shirts, platforms, sequins, sexy, casual, feminine, suits – oh god I could go on! The inspiration was pre-pandemic, we plan our collections about a year in advance. The original idea was to wear these on a dance floor, so now that isn’t possible, it’s become more about having a little slice of that ‘disco’ mood even if the ‘disco’ itself is absent – a reason to celebrate.
Vanessa: Oh how exciting, I like this game; for me, my favourite era style-wise would be the 1920’s – I love the embellishment and pure decadence.
In light of the pandemic, the trend of face masks has erupted globally, has FRAME CHAIN joined in with this evolving fashion niche? Well of course – we are in it! We started showing masks on chains almost from the very beginning; all of our chains can be used as a mask chain. We also give reusable masks away for free with every purchase on the web – we are cooking up some other plans, but we can tell you about them later.
What accessories, other than FRAME CHAINS of course, can’t you leave the house without? Annie: I am generally wearing at least two FRAME CHAINS – one for reading glasses, one for sunnies and probably one or two as necklaces. I always wear my diamond ring that was a gift from my parents for my 21st, Manolo Blahnik heels, a LOEWE or BottegaVenetta Handbag and a spritz of BYREDO fragrance. Vanessa: I can’t leave the house without my rings that I have collected over the years, most as gifts from my parents, and at the moment – my mask, of course – with my FRAME CHAIN attached to it!
FRAME CHAIN has become such a well established brand – appearing in most of the major department stores across the UK, as well as across Europe and beyond; what can we expect next? Thank you for saying this – we still feel like we are building and growing – yet there is still so much to do. We do have more exciting new products in the pipeline for next year. We will let you know when we are ready to share!
FRAME CHAIN is a brand founded by two brilliantly diverse and creative women, and their innovative, stylish product range is a testament to them; with such a rapidly evolving brand, on the forefront of a trend that seems to be emerging more prominently in the catalogues of every major brand – I can’t wait to see what comes next for Vanessa, Annie and of course – FRAME CHAIN. Shop the FRAME CHAIN styles online at www.framechain.co.uk Interview by Victoria G. L. Brunton exclusively for Eyestylist.com
An experiment comes to fruition: The Good Quarantine collection 2020, produced in a virtual collaboration with opticians around the world
Sustainable principles, a shared human experience and a creative vision: Nina Mûr’s Good Quarantine collection has launched this season. Through a process of virtual consultation and an exchange of ideas during the isolation of lockdown in April and May, the concepts for each model grew out of shared experiences and design discussion, fueling creativity as an “escape” in difficult and uncertain times. Above: model Bux in blue steel / hammered gold. The imagery in the new campaign was inspired by haunting images of David Lynch
“We collected the cinematographic and surrealism of the moment that we lived during lockdown, while we created this very special collection together….” Lorena Serrano, co-founder and creative director
Participating opticians were eventually invited to submit their original designs to be voted on by a panel of professionals, among which Eyestylist was delighted to take part. The resulting collection includes 5 models – Alohe, Ansostyle, Ottificio, Bux and R&B, each one made to order in the label’s high-quality birch wood, a material that is flexible, lightweight and perfectly sustainable, with origins in a reforested cultivation in Finland.
The extraordinary versatility of a frame as an accessory, the possibility of wearing chic animal prints or exciting shapes on the face, unusual colour combinations and fashionable designs that are as graceful and decorative as they are bold in making a statement, this is a world we continue to study and admire, across trends and seasonal expressions – in the world of fine eyewear.
For animal-inspired prints, with an air of distinguished quality and Parisian know-how, with the special attention to detail and colour typical of a fine fabric, Lafont Paris remains a remarkable leader – bringing its history and heritage into the style, and reproducing it for the modern wearer. Often playfully incorporated as a trim, as in the recent Gauloise model (100), the leopard prints are always particularly spectacular, with a level of definition and colour precision in the material that is difficult to find elsewhere.
Lafont Paris is an historic leader in French eyewear design, and all their frames are produced in the renowned spectacle-making region of the Jura. The boutiques in Paris – in Boulevard Raspail, Rue Vignon, and Rue de Sévigné represent the ongoing life and creative vitality of the Lafont collections alongside its rich archive, fully displayed at the original Rue Vignon shop, where the evolution of their exotic and chic prints can still be studied and admired today. Find out more about Lafont on Eyestylist at https://www.eyestylist.com/2020/10/lafont-paris/ Visit the Lafont Paris website at www.lafont.com
In homage to the scholarly, distinguished appeal of eyeglass styles of the 1950s, new model 20-22 by Paradigm, part of a grouping of frames from this independent label, offers eye-catching eyewear chic in interesting, contemporary colours. Above: model wears 20-22 by Paradigm. The frame is one of four new optical styles and four new sunglasses from the brand – designed to complement a wide range of faces
The smart shape of 20-22 uses a popular metal/acetate combination construction successfully incorporating vintage lines and modern colours of sky, grey, and umber.
Paradigm’s focus on comfort, wearability, flattering shapes and predominantly light translucent colours is further enhanced in this series by delightful new detailing and something unexpected, particularly in the sunglass releases where playful tricks with acetate inserts and strong shapes are beautifully articulated. Our current favourite? This reimagined aviator (20-61) in the sunglasses series (it is also offered as an optical), a style which boasts a classically shaped lens enhanced by unusual acetate edging for a special style-driven statement. Find out more about Paradigm at https://www.eyestylist.com/2020/09/paradigm-emerging-trends-vintage-inspo/ www.kenmarkeyewear.com
A new Erker’s flagship store has opened in St. Louis, Missouri in 2020, the latest and most luxurious in a long line of optical stores run by the Erker family through their extraordinary 141 year history.
“The Saint Louis Galleria is the premier shopping destination in Saint Louis where the top stores are located,” Jack Erker III told Eyestylist. “The customers are from many demographics and come from all over to shop with us. Our focus is the hard-to-get-quality boutique brands including two of our own, Erker’s 1879 and NW77th.”
Alongside an eclectic range of collections by Barton Perreira, Dita, Cazal, Tom Ford and Jacques Marie Mage, the Erker’s 1879 collection represents an exclusive reference to the local legacy of a company that has served its community through generations. “Since the brand has deep roots, it resonates very well within the local market,” says Erker. “Many customers travel all over and see our brand in other markets as well and this lends to deep credibility within our local market. The focus of the store is primarily our brands, and are supplemented with other niches of brands that go well with our own.”
The decoration and design of the interior is classical with a luxurious orientation in line with the high-end feel of the St Louis Galleria, with clear, eye-catching branding.
“Our brand is well known in our market and our customers still yearn for a brick and mortar store to give the service to the customers that they are used to receiving from us,” says Jack Erker when we asked about the key benefits of the store, even in the current climate. “The traffic in the mall allows us to have a larger reach to continue to grow the brand within the region. The local community is thrilled for us to be growing and it adds momentum internally within our family (employees).”
About Erker’s: Describing itself as the first optical laboratory west of the Mississippi River, Erker’s was founded in 1879 by A.P. Erker and brother, August. Today the company is led by the great-grandson Jack Jr. with his two sons, Jack III and Tony. Erker’s is one of the oldest eyewear establishments in the US with the rare claim that it is still owned by members of founding family. The family’s own extensive eyewear collection, Erker’s 1879 can be viewed directly at www.erkers1879.com. For additional information visit www.studiooptyx.com
New models launched: Ørgreen Optics’ ultra thin eyewear in advanced titanium
The Danish brand’s new Imaginary Lines collection pays tribute to the Ørgreen ethos of innovation combined with material quality, design precision and colour nuances. The seven new models announced are testimony to a label that continues to push boundaries with creative drive and a committed design attitude resulting in contemporary proposals in unique and refreshing colours. Above & below:Balancing colour and design in the Imaginary Lines collection: Model Hemishere by Ørgreen
The classically inspired shapes include model Hemisphere, a perfectly round frame, inspired by the imaginary lines that define the globe. A delicate but impactful frame, the design embodies the lightness of state-of-the-art titanium and the elegance of the brand’s colour world. The colorways range from a shiny rose gold to mat miami ocean green / mat white gold – a light, pure and delicate combination for natural skin tones.
Not to be mistaken with tropical islands, the Tropics frame is named after the regions of Earth surrounding the Equator. A fashion forward frame – distinct for its characteristic geometrical shape, this style is offered in a range of six colours, including mat deep space blue / mat rose gold, and mat brown / shiny gold.
A highlight for men, the Border frame is also the result of a meticulous design – with emphasis on an ultra slim and cool looking double bridge. A wide frame (available in size 56-16-137) and made to fit larger faces, it comes in a range of six colours, including trendy antique finishes of blue, gun or teal.
Ørgreen Optics is an innovator in the field of eyewear with collections which include acetate and precious metals – titanium and beta-titanium. Find out more about the new Imaginary Lines capsule collection highlighting combinations of 100% pure titanium and beta-titanium athttps://orgreenoptics.com/
Cristiano Ferilli is a qualified ophthalmologist by day and a designer by night. If that alone doesn’t strike you as an accomplishment, Cristiano founded Ferilli Eyewear; the first eyewear brand to use cactus fibre – Sikalindi – in the manufacture of their Italian-made frames.
Cristiano, you speak of falling in love with the world of eyewear at the age of sixteen – forgive me if this is a backwards notion, but it’s perhaps quite an unusual attraction for a young boy to develop at such an age – how did this passion first ignite? When you’re a 16-year-old boy, I believe that you normally have a secret wish in life – it’s up to you to truly believe in that wish and make it come true. I think what pushed me back then was attending the Mido 2010 trade show and seeing so many sunglasses made with different kinds of materials. I said to myself then that when I was older, I would discover my own material to create my sunglasses.
Would you be able to tell us a little about your career path, did you always envision yourself working within the fashion industry? No, not at all. After getting an optician’s diploma at high school, I graduated with a degree in Orthoptic and Ophthalmologic Assistance, continuing that career path in clinics and hospitals. However, right after university I made my first sunglasses collection; I believed in it so passionately that Ferilli Eyewear has become my job today. While I’m busy with work as an orthoptist in a clinic, I’m also committed to creative projects as a designer for my brand.
How is it that your brand Ferilli goes beyond the concept of ‘just an accessory’? Prickly pear fibre creates a very particular pattern on every frame. I like to think that they are not just sunglasses, but they can be considered a fully-fledged design element that add a unique touch to a look, and that they are a distinctive feature that help define the wearer’s personality. Moreover, I care about the functionality of my sunglasses, not only about their design, and this applies also to the choice of lens.
Being the only brand of eyewear that uses Sikalindi is an amazing claim to be able to make, especially in an industry where the consumer is growing more aware of the impact of their purchases, and many brands are trying to find the newest, most innovative way to forge a sustainable future – tell us a bit more about producing frames with Sikalindi? In the region where I live – Puglia, in southern Italy – prickly pears are fast-growing plants, and sometimes there are so many of them that entire areas need to be cut down and thinned out. To obtain the fibre itself, we dehydrate the leaves of the plants through various physical processes – but without using chemical agents or pollutants. In this way we can extract the material we need, while respecting the environment and the natural cycle of the plant.
I assume you subscribe to the idea that the consumer needs to ‘buy smart’ and ‘buy less’ in order for our planet and resources to survive? Why should the consumer invest in a pair of Ferilli sunglasses, in your opinion? Our products guarantee functionality from a technical point of view and they are made with a unique, sustainable material. Our aim is to be creative and innovative producing naturally beautiful sunglasses that respect the environment.
Finally, your website says that you hope to develop some new ‘sparkling ideas’ in the future – is there anything on the horizon? I can tell you that the prickly pear fibre will be incorporated into other materials, and we are meticulously studying new models that will amaze you!
To find out more about Ferilli visit www.ferillieyewear.com. Interview by Victoria G. L. Brunton exclusively for Eyestylist.com
Millinaire, an original shape from the OG archive, first launched in 1968
In 1968, when Millinaire was first launched designer Oliver Goldsmith was already dressing the stars and providing innovative statement eyewear for men and women with a taste for fashion and unique attention-grabbing style. They were appearing on magazine covers, were worn by the likes of Grace Kelly, Peter Sellers and Michael Caine, and famously popped up in movies such as Breakfast at Tiffany’s (on Audrey Hepburn in 1961).
Today the Millinaire model has returned – reintroduced into the Icons Collection at OG as part of the brand’s unique Winter Sun edition for 2020/21. The small oval shape – typical of the 1960s – is one of the classic shapes that remains integral to the evolution of the brand and its exciting history. The fine handcrafted detailing and design features such as the thick and elegant acetate temples and small subtle metal pins, on front and sides, are carefully reproduced as they were in their original form – and paired with state-of-the-art modern Zeiss sun lenses with especially light tints – to suit the winter sun.