Arts + travel

History of Travel Bags in Amsterdam

1st July 2014 How times change! An original exhibition at the charming canal-side Tassen Museum in Amsterdam shows the history of travel and development of suitcases from 1850 to the present. Excursions in the early days relied on gigantic trunks that were the norm for travel by coach and ship, as well as luxurious luggage sets, and extravagant dressing cases containing silver brushes and crystal vials. Travel during the 19th Century was uncomfortable and dangerous; for that reason trunks had to be weather proof and sturdy, so that they could be tied to the top or back of a coach.

The invention of the steam engine changed not only how people lived, but how they travelled. It was then possible to cover much longer distances by steam train or ship. The carpet bag, which could also serve as a rug in unheated train compartments, was popular for train travel during the 19th Century. Later came the use of woolen railway bags, decorated with depictions of flowers or animals. For luxurious cruises, cabin trunks (top photo: Wardrobe Trunk Belber Trunk & Bag Co. Philadephia c. 1930)  were designed for extensive wardrobes with drawers for shoes and clothing hooks for coats, dresses or suits.

How people travelled and the types of bags used changed dramatically during the 1970’s when air travel became more affordable. Mass tourism put different demands on suitcases and travel bags; luggage became smaller, lighter and was equipped with wheels. And now creating luggage that accommodates one’s belongings that fit into an airplane’s overhead locker is the latest challenge.

Welcome Aboard is a delightful exhibition that traces the history of suitcases and travel bags, reflecting the mobility and speed of the changing times. The exhibition continues through 31 August 2014. www.tassenmuseum.nl JG

Romantic Wedding Couture at Victoria and Albert Museum

1st June 2014 Romantic, extravagant and glamorous wedding ensembles from the V&A collection are included in this magical array of bridal wear. A panorama of superb wedding dresses, and the growth of the wedding industry is explored in this stunning exhibition. Wedding attire from 1775 to 2014 includes dresses by Charles Frederick Worth, Charles James, Hardy Amies, Norman Hartnell, Christian Lacroix, and Bruce Oldfield among others. Most of the outfits were worn in Britain, by brides of many faiths.

There are also wonderful accessories, including jewellery, shoes, garters, veils, wreaths, hats and corsetry.   Other highlights include fashion sketches and personal photos, plus garments worn by bridegrooms and attendants, and striking millinery by Philip Treacy and Stephen Jones. The exhibition investigates the histories of the garments, revealing fascinating and personal details about the lives of the wearers, giving an intimate insight into their occupations, circumstances and fashion choices. For a fascinating glimpse into how fashion, social and cultural attitudes to weddings has evolved through the centuries, this is definitely an exhibition to visit. Through 15 March 2015. www.vam.ac.uk JG

Photos: Top: Embroidered silk coat and silk dress designed by Anna Valentine, feather headress created by Philip Treacy, 2005 Worn by The Duchess of Cornwall for the blessing after her marriage to HRH The Prince of Wales Photograph by Hugo Burnand This images is reproduced with the kind permission of The Duchess of Cornwall

Centre: Embroidered corded silk wedding dress made after a Paquin, Lalanne et Cie Paris model by Stern Brothers, New York 1890 Worn by Cara Leland Huttleston Rogers for her marriage in New York to Bradford Ferris Duff. Given by Lord Fairhaven Copyright Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Bottom: Embroidered silk satin wedding dress designed by Norman Hartnell, London 1933

Remembering an Iconic Designer

1st May 2014 The glamorous, elegant, sculptural designs by Charles James are the subject of a beautiful exhibition held in the newly renovated Tisch Gallery in the Anna Wintour Costume Center, at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City. Complex cuts, extravagant draping, and luxurious materials were transposed into fabulous designs – magic that James performed with his imagination and scissors. James was born in Britain, and worked in Paris before arriving in New York in 1940, where he established permanent residence. His early clients included Diana Vreeland, iconic fashion editor, and society beauties Babe Paley and Millicent Rogers. In 1954, James married Nancy Lee Gregory, who frequently modeled his designs.

Charles James was the ultimate perfectionist, regarding each design as a work of art. Women responded to his dramatic seaming that enhanced the female form. James loved luxury, and his fabric choices were always sumptuous – silk velvets and chiffon, cotton organdy, creamy crepe, and fine wools. Charles James: Beyond Fashion is a fitting tribute to a designer who paved the way for many of America’s future couturiers. The exhibition runs from 8 May through 10 August 2014. www.metmusuem.org JG

Photos: Top: Charles James Ball Gowns 1948 Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photograph by Cecil Beaton, Beaton/Vogue/Condé Nast Archive. Copyright Condé Nast

Babe Paley: Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photograph by John Rawlings, Rawlings/Vogue/Condé Nast Archive. Copyright Condé Nast

Nancy James: Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photograph by Cecil Beaton, The Cecil Beaton Studio Archive at Sotheby’s.