Arts + travel

Fashion Retrospective at V&A

1st April 2014  Fashion from the post-war 1940’s period to the current day are highlighted in The Glamour of Italian Fashion 1945-2014 at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum. Sponsored by Bulgari, fabulous heritage jewels once owned by Elizabeth Taylor are also on display. Creations from designers synonymous with Italian artisanal tradition include Giorgio Armani, Valentino, Missoni, Versace, Gianfranco Ferre, Mila Schön, Simonetta, Prada, Pucci, and Dolce & Gabbana among others.

The exhibition traces Italy’s rich and influential contribution to fashion – a contribution that extended around the world, and particularly influenced film stars like Audrey Hepburn and Elizabeth Taylor, who became style ambassadors for luxurious Italian clothing. The Glamour of Italian Fashion focuses on the exceptional quality of techniques, materials and expertise for which Italy has become renowned. The country’s status as manufacturer and exporter of stylish and well-made fashion and textiles is linked to the strength of its traditional industries including spinning, dyeing, weaving, cutting and stitching; some of these traditions have been practised in regions around Italy for hundreds of years.

The show is beautifully curated by Sonnet Stanfill, who researched Italian archives, and worked closely with Bulgari to select the unique and extraordinary jewels on display. The Glamour of Italian Fashion 1945-2014 is a delightful celebration of Italian fashion and style. Victoria & Albert Museum – 5 April until 27 July 2014. www.vam.ac.uk JG

Photos: Top image: Valentino posing with models nearby Trevi Fountain Rome July 1967 Courtesy of the Art Archive/Mondadori Portfolio/Marisa Rastellini  Ballroom image: Fashion Show in Sala Bianca 1955 Photo by G.M.Fadigati Giorgini Archive Florence Gianfranco Ferre photo by Gian Paolo Barbieri copyright:GIANPAOLOBARBIERI

“A Celebration of British design, craftsmanship, engineering and innovation

7th March 2014 A new exhibition at Linley in Pimlico, London (open until 14th March), brings together some of Britain’s exceptional luxury labels and companies, focusing on craftsmanship, skill and innovative design. From disciplines as diverse as fashion, fishing, shooting, furniture and construction, the exhibition beautifully portrays examples of the highest quality traditional British design alongside contemporary labels such as BVS Bespoke, producers of fine accessories and handmade bags. Highlights also include exquisite examples of furniture by Linley – www.davidlinley.com, hats by Lock and Co. – www.lockhatters.co.uk –, the first hatters to design the iconic Bowler,  and eyewear by the historic spectaclemakers  – who made frames for Sir Winston Churchill and Napoleon Bonaparte – C.W. Dixey (pictured above). www.cwdixeyandson.com

There is also a rare chance to get close to some of the most exciting designs from iconic automobile and motorbike manufacters such as McClaren and Gladstone Motorcycles.

Curated by David Linley and Scott Simpson, the exhibition is taking place at Linley Belgravia Showroom, 60 Pimlico Road, London SW1W 8LP www.davidlinley.com Images (top, and centre) provided by www.davidlinley.com

For more on C.W. Dixey fine eyewear visit www.cwdixeyandson.com CN

Parisian Chic from The Belle Epoque to the 1930’s

1st February 2014 A visit to Musée Carnavalet is always a pleasure, and particularly when there is a special exhibition. The Museum is comprised of two townhouses in The Marais, and has a splendid historical pedigree. The Marquise de Sévigné lived there for almost twenty years, and the extensive collections and interiors at Carnavalet enables visitors to view life as enjoyed by aristocracy through several centuries. In addition to the permanent collection, the current exhibition pays homage to fashion trends from La Belle Epoque to the 1930’s. Roman d’une Garde-Robe (The Novel of a Wardrobe) traces the emergence of the grand haute couture houses in Paris through the remarkable wardrobe of Alice Alleaume, a “vendeuse” or chief saleswoman at Chéruit on Place Vendome.

The influence of Alleaume’s family – her couturière mother Adéle, and her sister Hortense, who worked at Worth – and the professional life and tastes of these fashionable Parisians, are the factors that orchestrate the exhibition. Elegant fashions from Worth, Jeanne Lavin, Chéruit, plus superb accessories – hats, gloves, bags and jewellery are included.  Beautifully handwritten letters, documents, photographs and sales records, transport the viewer to a gilded age of glamour and refined style. When in Paris – a visit to The Novel of a Wardrobe will enchant and delight. While at Musée Carnavalet, take time to view the beautiful gardens – they are a joy all year – and especially now when the lovely greenery and colourful flowers bring a cheerful note to a winter’s day. Exhibition continues through 16 March. www.carnavalet.paris.fr JG

Photos: Top image: Evening Dress Debut XXème Siècle Rose Silk Mousseline with paillettes, ivory tulle and embroidery of pearls and sequins. Stéphane Piera/Galleria/Roger-Viollet Shoes: Stéphane Piera/Galleria/Roger-Viollet Hellstern Droites Reserves

Personal Collection of Legendary Designer in Landmark Sale

20th January 2014 The fashion luminary Madame Elsa Schiaparelli was at the heart of avant-garde ideas in 1930’s Paris. She was a collector, collaborator, friend and patron to many leading artists of the day – from Salvador Dali and Man Ray to Cocteau and Diego Giacometti. Icons of the Golden Age of Hollywood loved her designs – Marlene Dietrich was a client. The sale includes a dynamic combination of Schiaparelli’s fashion designs, as well as furniture, fine art and decorative arts. The vast collection – 180 lots are included in the sale – has passed by descent to Elsa Schiaparelli’s granddaughter, the model and actress Marisa Schiaparelli Berenson. “My grandmother was an inspiration and always has been, and now I think it’s very important for younger generations to know who she was, to have a taste of that wonderful world that she lived in, that she created, that she left behind her,” says Marisa, “and I think my grandmother’s personal belongings will inspire future generations; this is an extraordinary and fascinating legacy.”

The diverse collection presents a veritable feast of fashion, artworks and objects that reflect their owner’s significant role as a taste-maker.Elsa Schiaparelli loved to entertain in her homes in Paris and Tunisia – the latter location frequently inspired her fashion collections. Yves Saint Laurent said: “Madame Elsa Schiaparelli was incomparable. There is no equivalent to be found. Her imagination knew no bounds.” The Personal Collection of Elsa Schiaparelli takes place at Christie’s in Paris on Thursday 23rd January. This very personal collection captures the essence of Schiaparelli’s unique style and vision. The full pre-sale exhibition is on view at  Christie’s Paris, 9 Avenue Matignon through 22nd January. For more details visit www.christies.com JG

Top photo:’Bucking Bronco’ intricately beaded waistcoat inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli’s 1940’s trip to Texas. Both photos courtesy of Christie’s Images Limited 2014