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Women Fashion Power

High-Profile Women Celebrated at Design Museum

1st November 2014 Clothes have always been a powerful form of self-expression for women – from Elizabeth 1, to Margaret Thatcher, and Coco Chanel to Lady Gaga –  and an essential part of a sophisticated visual language. An exceptional new exhibition at London’s Design Museum brings together a fabulous showcase of clothing, photography, archive footage and interviews with twenty-five influential women who have used fashion to define and enhance their position in the world.

 

Margaret Thatcher Suit Courtesy of Christie's
Margaret Thatcher Suit Courtesy of Christie’s

Donna Loveday, Head of Curatorial at the Design Museum and co-curator of the exhibition said: “All of the women we invited to contribute to the exhibition were chosen because they are leaders in their field, and they understand that the clothes they wear are a part of the way that they communicate with the world.”

Joan Burstein Founder of Browns London photographed by Billie Sheepers
Joan Burstein Founder of Browns London photographed by Billie Sheepers

WOMEN FASHION POWER examines the last 150 years of women’s fashion from the restrictive boned corsets of the nineteenth century to the statement Louboutin heels of today. Included among the women profiled are: Joan Burstein, founder of Browns in London; Livia Firth, Creative Director of Eco Age; Princess Charlène of Monaco; Anne Hidalgo, Mayor of Paris; Charlotte Olympia, Designer; Dame Zandra Rhodes and Dame Vivienne Westwood, both designers. Archive clothes include a suit worn by Margaret Thatcher when she was elected leader of the Conservative party in 1975; and a dress worn by Diana, Princess of Wales on the occasion of  her 36th birthday, plus items from Elsa Schiaparelli, and Yves Saint Laurent.

 

Anne Hidalgo Mayor of Paris photographed by Jean-Baptiste Gurliat
Anne Hidalgo Mayor of Paris photographed by Jean-Baptiste Gurliat

Fashion commentator Collin McDowell observed: “This exhibition shows how women have used different approaches to dress in order to make statements which are unique to them and their personalities. They create their own wardrobes, not to be fashion plates but to demonstrate who and what they are.” WOMEN FASHION POWER at the Design Museum Shad Thames, London SE1 Through 26 April 2015 www.designmuseum.org JG

Top photo: Dame Zandra Rhodes photographed by John Swannell

Adrian Marwitz

1st November 2014  The lustrous lightweight metal Titanium was the benchmark idea for Adrian Marwitz to pursue his teenage dream. “The idea came to me when I was seventeen. I dreamed about making frames in this material and having them handcrafted in Germany,” recalls Marwitz. But before Adrian realised his ambition, he trained as an optician in Berlin, where he was born. With heritage eyewear genes already in Adrian’s DNA – his grandfather founded Marwitz Eyewear in nineteen eighteen, and his father is Hans-Joachim of Conquistador – perhaps it was inevitable that Marwitz would follow an optical path. However, like many offspring of established families, he wanted to strike out on his own, and started his company eighteen months ago.

 

Streamlined Titanium Eyewear by Adrian Marwitz
Streamlined Titanium Eyewear by Adrian Marwitz

“Unfortunately, I never met my grandfather, he died the year before I was born. However, I liked his philosophy of focusing on quality and good shapes. That concept, plus my love of travel definitely influences what I design. Italy, Asia, Thailand, Japan – different countries and cultures are inspiring. I recently went to Scotland and I loved the beautiful landscape – but the weather is not very good! I also visited a Scottish distillery and tried whiskey; you feel the Scottish life!” Marwitz also finds London exhilarating. “I love this city,” he says enthusiastically, “with all its different cultures and wonderful food.”

 

Stranger No. 1 in Olive Green Titanium by Adrian Marwitz
Stranger No. 1 in Olive Green Titanium by Adrian Marwitz

An unusual influence that motivates Marwitz designs is shoes. “Yes, shoe  shapes, including Dutch shoes, are inspirational, and I like to play with colours, but in everything I do, I like minimal style, pure and uncluttered.” Streamline shapes are the Marwitz signature, everything handmade in Germany, so he is hands-on for quality and precision control. Are there other items or different materials in which he would like to work? “”That is an interesting question! People frequently ask if I will make acetate frames, but I think it might be a mistake. My brand is getting known for high-quality Titanium. Sometimes I think I would like to make furniture – that could be very interesting, perhaps to make a Titanium chair. Maybe in the next few years, I’ll do something totally different!” www.adrianmarwitz.com JG

Photo of Adrian Marwitz exclusively for Eyestylist by Gilles Stüssi All Rights Reserved

Autumn Hootenanny

Intrepid sunglass and optical designs characterise the latest collections. Designers express their style leadership with beautiful shapes in amazing colours. So celebrate autumn with Eyestylist this month for eyewear news, designer celebrations, innovative boutiques and fashion exhibitions. Click on all sections – Reviews, Boutiques, Designer of the Month and City Guides – for style and cultural adventures.

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Sophisticated Greys

Chic  and Refined

28th October 2014 New refining colouration techniques give grey tones a transparent or matt richness that works well with many complexions. Grey has an intriguing history in fashion, music and art. Rembrandt used complex greys in his paintings; in the Eighteenth century, grey was a very stylish colour for men and women; and in the 19th century composer Claude Debussy was inspired by grey tones he saw in a Whistler painting.

Current eyewear collections feature noble variations of grey, including Anna-Karin Karlsson’s striking acetate optical design Stockholm Syndrome (above), with finely textured sides. www.annakarinkarlsson.com

 

Fastens Seatbelt by Suzy Glam
Fastens Seatbelt by Suzy Glam

Fastens Seatbelt by Suzy Glam demonstrates the lovely acetate colour gradations that give grey tones shining luminosity, and features Suzy’s signature beveled grace. www.suzyglam.com

 

Segal by Claire Goldsmith Eyewear
Segal by Claire Goldsmith Eyewear

Segal in Matt Elephant Grey acetate by Claire Goldsmith Eyewear from the CG Lite collection highlights cool, uncluttered design in a contemporary mode. www.olivergoldsmith.com

 

Stranger No. 15 by Adrian Marwitz
Stranger No. 15 by Adrian Marwitz

Pewter Grey Pure Titanium by Adrian Marwitz with a streamlined sculpted frame front is lightweight, and expertly handcrafted in Germany. www.adrianmarwitz.com JG

Scoogle, Melbourne

Niloca Eyewear’s flagship store

1st October 2014 After the launch of a first titanium collection for 2014, Australian brand Niloca opened their own flagship store, Scoogle. Located in Southbank Melbourne, the shop is offering the complete Niloca range of eyewear (a hot topic at this year’s Silmo Paris), alongside other handpicked speciality labels including Theo and Hoet. “Set in a post Botanica new world Gothica, the store is serviced, focused on and inviting for all serious eyewear fashionistas,” explained one of the team to Eyestylist.

Scoogle
Scoogle’s Steiff “mascot”
Scoogle, interior
Scoogle’s new interior
Niloca at Silmo Paris, 2014
Niloca at Silmo Paris, 2014 (Image by Eyestylist.com)

The store’s design theme and location were serendipitously entwined even before the location had been found. Housed in the new Guilfoyle building the botanic theme integrates seamlessly with its namesake, Sir William Robert Guilfoyle, a recognised international botanist. A trademark feature of Sir William’s work was the Conservatory, similarly an internal feature of the Niloca store. From the oxodised iron drawers to the reclaimed Australian hardwood desk and deep coir carpet, the design of the interior is perfectly in tune with the unique merchandise within. Open 7 days a week by appointment. www.scoogle.com.au

Find out more about Niloca Eyewear at www.niloca.com CN