City guides

Historic Fashion Rediscovered

The Fabulous Wardrobe of Countess Greffulhe

Her wardrobe – as well as her life – was the toast and talk of Paris. Elisabeth, Countess Greffulhe (1860-1952) was the epitome of elegance, with an exquisite, enviable wardrobe, the focus of a stunning exhibition at Palais Galleria in Paris.  She was an avid patron of the arts, promoting and encouraging James Whistler; Auguste Rodin and Gustave Moreau; and the ballet impresario Diaghilev and his  Ballet Russes. The Countess was also a supporter of composer Gabriel Fauré, and his Pavane was premiered at a garden party in the Bois de Boulogne that she organised. In addition, she produced and promoted operas including Wagner’s Tristan and Isolde and Twilight of the Gods.

Charles FrÈderic Worth (1825-1895). Robe byzantine portÈe par la Comtesse Greffulhe pour le mariage de sa fille, 1904 - Taffetas lamÈ, soie et filÈ or, tulle de soie, application de paillettes. Galliera, musÈe de la Mode de la Ville de Paris.
Charles FrÈderic Worth (1825-1895). Robe byzantine portÈe par la Comtesse Greffulhe pour le mariage de sa fille, 1904 – Taffetas lamÈ, soie et filÈ or, tulle de soie, application de paillettes. Galliera, musÈe de la Mode de la Ville de Paris.

Proust immortalised her for posterity as the Duchess of Guermantes in Proust’s novel A La Recherche du Temps Perdu (In Search of Lost Time). The Countess captivated Parisian society with her tireless activities and her glorious wardrobe. She was a fascinating, slender figure in an alluring cloud of tulle, gauze, chiffon and feathers, or in her velvet coats and kimono jackets. The Palais Gallieria displays fifty dresses worn by the Countess, designed by grand couturiers including Fortuny, Worth, Lanvin and Babani.

Charles-Frederick Worth (1825-1895). Tea gown. Velours ciselÈ bleu foncÈ sur fond de satin vert. Dentelle de Valenciennes. Doublure en taffetas changeant vert et bleu, vers 1897. Galliera, musÈe de la Mode de la Ville de Paris.
Charles-Frederick Worth (1825-1895). Tea gown. Velours ciselÈ bleu foncÈ sur fond de satin vert. Dentelle de Valenciennes. Doublure en taffetas changeant vert et bleu, vers 1897. Galliera, musÈe de la Mode de la Ville de Paris.

There are evening and day dresses, coats, accessories, portraits, photographs and films. The exhibition is a marvellous invitation to go “in search of lost fashion”, and to become acquainted with the divine Countess, whose image was inescapably linked with her luxurious wardrobe. La Mode Retrouvée (Fashion Regained) Dresses of Elisabeth, Countess Greffulhe opens 7th November and continues until 20th March 2016. www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr JG 

MOREL par Jean Nouvel
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Top image: Photographie de Otto, la comtesse Greffulhe dans une robe de bal, veers 1887 Copyright Otto/Galliera/Roger-Viollet

Irving Penn: Beyond Beauty

Iconic Photographer at Smithsonian Art Museum

Fashion, portrait and still life images by Irving Penn (1917-2009), are among the photography masterpieces in black-and-white and colour on display at the Smithsonian in Washington D.C. The exhibition is the first retrospective in twenty years of the photographer who captured street scenes from the American South; fine-art fashion photos; still life and celebrity portraits; and photos made for magazine editorials and commercial advertising; including previously unseen images.

Irving Penn: Ball Dress by Olivier Theyskens for Nina Ricci New York, 2007
Irving Penn: Ball Dress by Olivier Theyskens for Nina Ricci New York, 2007

Penn’s photographic career spanned nearly seventy years, and at Vogue magazine, Penn’s portraits and fashion images defined 1950’s elegance. There are approximately one hundred fifty photos, plus Super 8mm films of Penn in Morocco, made by his wife – who was a model – Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn – that add a dynamic insight into the artist at work.

 

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Irving Penn: Young Boy, Pause Pause American South, 1941, printed 2001
Irving Penn: Young Boy, Pause Pause American South, 1941, printed 2001

Irving Penn: Beyond Beauty opens at The Smithsonian American Art Museum on 23rd October, and continues through 20th March 2016 – it will then travel to several cities across America. The exhibition beautifully celebrates Penn’s photographic legacy as a modern master of his craft. For info on The Smithsonian click on www. americanart.si.edu. For Exhibition details – www.americanart.si.edu/exhibitions/archive/2015/irving_penn/.  JG

Photos: Top image – Irving Penn Leontyne Price New York, 1961 Smithsonian American Art Museum Gift of The Irving Penn Foundation Copyright Condé Nast Ball Dress: Smithsonian American Art Museum Gift of The Irving Penn Foundation Copyright Condé Nast Young Boy: Smithsonian American Art Museum Gift of The Irving Penn Foundation Copyright The Irving Penn Foundation

Audrey Hepburn: Portraits of an Icon

National Portrait Gallery Celebrates Audrey Hepburn

Actress, humanitarian, and icon – Audrey Hepburn is one of the most fascinating and memorable women of the 20th Century. Born in Holland, she began her career as a dancer and chorus girl in London’s West End. She evolved into an inspiring and glamorous international movie star, and teamed for years with Hubert de Givenchy in a famous style marriage. Her later life culminated in remarkable philanthropic work, including Goodwill Ambassador for the United Nations International Children’s Fund (UNICEF).

Audrey Hepburn wearing Givenchy by Norman Parkinson 1955
Audrey Hepburn wearing Givenchy by Norman Parkinson 1955

The National Portrait Gallery pays homage to this extraordinary woman with photos that span her life from a nine-year-old – through to her last major photo shoot in 1991. These are beautiful and reflective photos from leading photographers including Cecil Beaton, Richard Avedon, Irving Penn, Terry O’Neill, and Norman Parkinson.

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Hall of Frames Zurich Convention Center 12-13 September 2021
Audrey Hepburn as Holly Golightly in Breakfast at Tiffany's by Howell Conant
Audrey Hepburn as Holly Golightly in Breakfast at Tiffany’s by Howell Conant

The exhibition has been organised with support from the Audrey Hepburn Estate and her sons, Luca Dotti and Sean Hepburn Ferrer. Audrey Hepburn: Portraits of an Icon is a memorable show that highlights a truly exceptional, iconic woman. Until 18th October. www.npg.org.uk JG 

Photos: Top image: Audrey Hepburn dressed in Givenchy with sunglasses by Oliver Goldsmith by Douglas Kirkland 1966 Copyright Iconic Images/Douglas Kirkland Audrey Hepburn in pink Givenchy Copyright Norman Parkinson Ltd/Courtesy Norman Parkinson Archive  Audrey Hepburn as Holly Golightly by Howell Conant, published on the cover of Jours de France, 27 January 1962

Greek Culinary Experience – NYC!

City Dining with Greek Island Ambience

25th August 2015 Opened nearly thirty years ago in New York City, Periyali restaurant continues to gather rave reviews. Proprietor Nicola Kotsoni, originally from the Greek island of Zakynthos, conveyed her love of the island’s cuisine…to the island of Manhattan. All the entrees are individually prepared, and diners can savour classic dishes that include: Spanakopita, Moussaka, and grilled Calamari – along with other Greek specialities. The wine list is extensive – with a wonderful collection of champagnes – including Dom Perignon- and superior Greek wines, plus American and international selections.

Classic Greek Cuisine at Periyali
Classic Greek Cuisine at Periyali

The ambience at Periyali (which means “seashore”) welcomes diners to the tranquility and beauty of the Greek Islands, with its fresh décor, and inviting sky lit garden. Nicola loves to entertain – and she personally oversees every detail – including selecting the most beautiful flowers for her famous and original designs. For traditional Greek cuisine, Periyali represents the best of culinary delights from the Hellenic Islands. www.periyali.com JG

LINDBERG
Hall of Frames Zurich Convention Center 12-13 September 2021

Dior, The New Look Revolution

Exhibition at Dior’s Childhood Home

1st August 2015 Christian Dior revolutionized fashion history in 1947, when he presented his first haute couture collection. In a post-war era, where many countries were still on rations and rebuilding, Dior marked the start of a dramatic era and the triumph of femininity with his “New Look” and legendary silhouette. The Bar suit, with its black full skirt, and wasp waist ecru jacket, became both the manifesto and the icon. Marion Cotillard (above) wearing the Bar suit 2012 features in the museum poster.

 

Dior, The New Look Revolution published by Rizzoli featuring Dior's The Bar Suit, by Mats Gustafson
Dior, The New Look Revolution published by Rizzoli featuring Dior’s The Bar Suit, by Mats Gustafson

Dior’s childhood home – Villa les Rhumbs, in Granville, Normandy – with its beautiful garden and seaside location was an inspiration for him. The villa is now a museum and hosts the exhibition Dior, The New Look Revolution, which include photographs and archives, and reveals the complexity of the silhouette’s architecture. To celebrate the occasion, Laurence Benaïm has written a book Dior, The New Look Revolution, published by Rizzoli. It’s nearly seventy years since Dior introduced his “New Look” – however, his amazingly engineered silhouette, with its timeless feminine shape, is spot on trend in the latest Dior collection – a 21st Century interpretation of a legacy. The exhibition continues through 1st November 2015. www.musee-dior-granville.com JG

BLACKFIN
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OGI Eyewear
Götti Switzerland
MOREL par Jean Nouvel

Photo of Marion Cotillard by Jean-Baptiste Mondino.