Design + Inspiration

Frames With Globe Trotting Credentials

30th May 2014  A passion for Africa and Luca Gnecchi Ruscone’s Roman heritage combine with dramatic effect in his seductive, glamorous sunglass designs. Elegant materials handcrafted in Italy bring further allure and beauty to the frames. (Pictured above: Designer Luca Gnecchi Ruscone.)

L.G.R. model Maria wears Alexandria CM in matt Havana acetate – a gracious, voluminous shape with sweeping temple interest. The green tempered mineral glass lenses complete the stylish harmony. www.lgr-sunglasses.com  JG

Photos by Luca Santocono exclusively for Eyestylist.  All rights reserved.

German Heritage with New Vision

29th April 2014 Adrian Marwitz continues a family history that has been synonymous with German eyewear since 1918. The brand was created by Marwitz’s grandfather, and Adrian is delighted and excited to guide the brand into the new millennium, with his passionate belief that eyewear is the ultimate fashion accessory. Marwitz frames are streamlined and sleek, uncluttered and pure, and feature first-class manufacturing processes – everything is handcrafted in Germany.

Urban Strangers is the latest collection – titanium frames in contemporary shapes with modern, high-tech features. Beautiful colourations are contrasted with ultra-thin stripes on the hinges and inner frame of the designs. Understated elegance with graceful distinction.Top photo: Urban Stranger No. 6 in Bronze www.adrianmarwitz.com JG

Timeless Treasure

28th March 2014 Tortoiseshell has been a treasured material since ancient times, as people loved the splendid markings and its organic warmth. In eyewear, the use of tortoiseshell was first noted about 1675. However, real  tortoiseshell has been banned since the 1970’s to protect turtles – an endangered species – and fragile eco systems. Fortunately, technology has paved the way for lovely tortoiseshell adaptations made from superior quality acetate.

Tortoiseshell and its timeless beauty contributed to the success of the costumes for The Great Gatsby. Catherine Martin won an Oscar for Best Costume Design this year. Christian Roth, who understands the lure and naturalness of beautiful classic materials and fine design, created the distinctive sunglasses featured in the film. Elizabeth Debicki (above) portrays 1920’s chic with her sleek turban and voluminously proportioned Christian Roth Tortoiseshell sunglasses. www.christian-roth.com

Claire Goldsmith and Ainjali Fine at Finest Seven both enthusiastically embrace modern day tortoiseshell interpretations. Robust proportions enhance Begbie by Claire Goldsmith in glossy Electric Tortoiseshell acetate, with expertly beveled temples.

Soft Tortoiseshell acetate with subtle shading and a keyhole bridge highlight Zero05 by Finest Seven. With elegance and superb crafting, Tortoiseshell possesses beauty and enduring style.JG

www.olivergoldsmith.com www.finestseven.com

Photo of Claire Goldsmith and Ainjali Fine by Luca Santocono Exclusively for Eyestylist.com

Great Gatsby image: Warner Brothers/Courtesy of Everett Collection

A Visit to Rolf Spectacles in the Tyrol

26th February 2014 From the first moment I met members of the Rolf team in Paris nearly five years ago, I was intrigued with these unconventional designers. This was their first show, and their “raison d’être” was to present a wooden frame. But….not just any wooden frame. this was a design with superb, beautifully sculpted craftsmanship, extremely professional, and it fit like a dream. The Rolf team (founders Roland Wolf, his partner Marija Lljazovic, her brother Martin, and Christian Wolf) had spent three years perfecting their perception of an elegant wooden frame, in the basement home of Roland and Christian’s father. Others were captivated too – Rolf Spectacles immediately won a Silmo d’Or, and people were intrigued with the beauty and construction of the design.

Discovering more of their unusual approach to eyewear over the years became evermore fascinating. With great anticipation I looked forward to visiting their headquarters in The Tyrol in Austria. Rolf had successfully emerged from the basement gathering international clients and more awards, to become an important player on the global eyewear scene. Nestled in the mountains, the outside of the sprawling Rolf structure looks like many commercial sites; however, enter the building, and a new universe unfolds – the Rolf World of amazing eyewear. The office dogs Jeremy and Lola add to the overall cosiness and casualness of the premises. However, behind this carefree ambience, is a team of extremely dedicated and hardworking people, committed to making superior handcrafted frames. There is a delightful camaraderie among the staff, and a purposeful atmosphere in the air.

Meticulous attention to detail is evident in the creation of each frame. The gluing room is acclimatized; sanding is done to perfection; and the quality control is evident with each frame microchipped so it can be monitored if necessary. Employees are trained over a period of several months to develop the skills and concentration that are required in producing the frames. The Rolf team makes most of the tools themselves used in creating the frames, while even humble instruments like tweezers also play an important role in the final product.

Mary Lljazovic is a construction engineer, which has served her well in developing the frames. “When we started making the frames, we thought we would stay in the cellar,” says Mary, “as we   didn’t know what the reaction of the market would be. When the business began to grow, we had temporary offices: but it’s necessary to have enough space to build a structure, and work on research and development. We did it all, so we know what is involved. It used to be organised chaos, but now we are more structured.”

Nature and conservation are vital ingredients in everything Rolf pursues. Nothing goes to waste in the Rolf environment; a purpose is found for everything. “We like to influence people in a positive way,” says Bernie Wolf, who joined the family business as sales director, “and travelling so much I see the pollution in places like China. We are lucky to live in a country like Austria where people look after things.” Collecting and restoring old cars is a Rolf hobby. “We love classic cars,” Mary explains, “and every frame is inspired by a vintage car, including the technical features and design. There can be a lot of stress, but it would be boring if everything worked well all the time!” she says with a laugh.

“To break the stress, I take time with the horses and the dogs; think about the frames, and then it comes naturally. The frames are our passion, our love. We want to present wood in a new way; and it took almost three years to get the frames the way we wanted. The Rolf customer is between 18 and 85 years of age. We have a broad spectrum, so it is proof that the collection is well designed.”

To the original wood designs, Rolf has added incredible frames in stone. The Rolf legend continues to grow and expand. Roland Wolf says: “I’m a crazy guy; I like to try new things and it’s fun to experiment. You know, I can do the glasses, but I still don’t know how to work a cell phone!” www.rolf-spectacles.com JG

Sophisticated and Subtle Eyewear Excellence

30th January 2014 Men need look no further than the elegance and natural beauty of horn to make a distinct eyewear style statement. The richness and colour harmony of this luxurious material has fascinated eyewear creators since Horn was first used for frames in Germany in the 16th Century. Here are three superb examples that show the illustrious virtues of horn. Nature, conservation, and the appreciation of resources are in the genes of the Rolf Team, as they develop and produce amazing frames in their Tyrol atelier. Their horn creations are sculptural beauties elegantly crafted with finesse and precision. Majestic (above) is Pure Horn, created without metal or other additional materials. Horn is a highly sensitive natural product, and exactitude in its process is an absolute must. Pure Horn – pure perfection. www.rolf-spectacles.com

Working in beautiful, natural materials has always been keynote for Sven Götti at Götti Switzerland. When he started designing, his first frames were crafted in Horn. Blaze (above) is among the latest designs – a suave, gracious shape that artfully illustrates the gorgeous shadings and lovely, natural lustre that are inherent in horn. www.gotti.ch

Parisian based Amaury Cagniard is a newcomer to frame design, and he enjoys working in authentic materials – Horn being a special favourite. This contemporary two-tone handcrafted Horn frame (above Style AAE Horn) with its refined lines, expresses Amaury’s desire for details and uniqueness. www.amaury.eu.com JG