Design & Inspiration

100% Optical promises line-up of international independent brands

The London show, which takes place from 24th to 26th February 2024 will feature – as part of its optical industry showcase – a variety of independent eyewear brands, from start-ups and emerging labels to well established international names

100% Optical, the London eyewear show – which is celebrating 10 years, promises a broad selection of independent eyewear collections with brands travelling from across Europe to exhibit at the show. The latest labels to confirm their presence include neubau eyewear, Frost, UltraLimited and Vakay. Above: the Italian titanium label Blackfin will exhibit at 100% this year – they will show their new collections including new titanium sunglass designs featuring Blackfin AirGlass, cutting-edge mineral lenses by Barberini

Logan and Ryan by SALT. Optics – the Californian brand SALT. Optics is a popular independent eyewear exhibitor at 100%

The fair will highlight new trends and directions in the optical arena, pointing to sustainability, eco materials and colour and design trends as key areas that will be highlighted through the presence of the selection of independent labels. They will exhibit in a dedicated area – The Studio – this year, which is sponsored by Nikon Lenswear UK and located in the heart of the Eyewear Zone. The fair organisers say that this location is set to be “the biggest independent line-up to date across the three-day optical event”.

Market sunglasses by Erker’s1879 in a gorgeous new colour called classic ancient tortoise

100% Optical holds the popular Love Eyewear Awards, sponsored by ShopAr and including 13 categories for the 2024 Edition. The Love Eyewear Awards features independents and major designers, manufacturers and retailers in the Optical industry.

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Supernova by Morel France: a favourite man’s frame with signature MOREL hinge – designed for added comfort

The shortlist of nominees for 2024 include Filipe Diniz Lunettes, OtrO Eyewear, l.a.Eyeworks, Okkul, KOMONO, Danielle Rattray, STRUKTUR Eyewear, ROLF., Gotti Switzerland, Mokki, Bird Eyewear, The Optical Gallery and more! The winners of the awards will be announced on Saturday 24th February 2024 on the renowned 100% Catwalk, sponsored by OCUCO at the show.

Model Clyde in Blush by Götti Switzerland – an example of state-of-the-art 3D printed sunglasses, produced in Switzerland

100% will welcome the following independent eyewear exhibitors and brands this year: Bevel (US), Bird Eyewear (UK), Blackfin (Italy); Danielle Rattray (Scotland), Erkers1879/Studio Optyx (US), FACE A FACE (Paris), GIGI Studios, Kirk & Kirk (UK), Morel (France), Ørgreen Optics (Denmark), MOREL (France), Nina Mûr, SALT. (US), Sea2see (Spain) – among others.

100% Optical is a three-day show (from 24-26th February at the ExCel London) – the event will once again welcome professionals, experts and eyewear enthusiasts alike through its doors to celebrate the world of eyewear and optics. The February show will mark the 10th edition of 100% Optical, and organisers predict that the event will attract over 10,000 optical professionals from across the globe. For more information and to register, visit www.100percentoptical.com

Bayria Eyewear: inspired by Arts & Crafts

Eyestylist Exclusive: The new collection by Italian eyewear brand Bayria is inspired by the arts movement at the end of the 19th Century

Bayria Eyewear, the Italian-born independent brand, has created a new collection releasing at Mido this weekend, inspired by the Arts & Crafts Movement and its signature style of hand-craftsmanship applied to many objects and everyday items from furniture and jewellery, to wallpaper, rugs and fabrics. The eyewear brand was inspired by the decorative arts movement founded by William Morris which valued craftsmanship as an expression of man’s work and his needs, but above all as a lasting value through time. The arts and crafts era embodied a reaction to industrialisation and mass production, and laid the foundations for modern design, with an eclectic production, characterized by almost hypnotising geometries and numerous natural and botanical references of exceptional beauty. Above: model Vincens in the new 6-piece collection at Bayria Eyewear

Ariminum by Bayria Eyewear

Bayria Eyewear was inspired by the dictates of this incredible artistic movement for the creation of their new Arts&Crafts collection, in which the dichotomy between avant-garde lines and craftsmanship is explored in detail.

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The frames feature extremely linear and geometric volumes, with a selection of shapes which includes maxi cat-eye glasses with multi-faceted details on the tips given by particular step-effect engravings; transparent colored acetate frames from which you can glimpse ripples formed by an internal sheet with matelassé workmanship that creates an incredible light effect and rhomboid shapes with gold details and curved temples.

Rhegium by Bayria Eyewear

The colour palette across the collection includes classic black tones, a whale blue hue and red and green tones alongside delicate white, pink and crystal variations. Morris’ wallpaper in particular, which depicted flora and fauna in rich and colourful designs and patterns inspired earthy enveloping colours in the frames and a timeless elegance, inspired by the values of the movement, such as simplicity and natural beauty. Bayria will be exhibiting at Mido in Milan. To find out more about the brand, visit www.bayriaeyewear.com

NEUBAU Eunoia campaign + ‘behind the scenes’

Eyestylist Exclusive: Independent eyewear brand NEUBAU shot their latest campaign in Capo Zafferano, Palermo, Sicily – the brand shared the story and ‘behind the scenes’ imagery as the Sphere collection launches at Mido in Milan – 3rd to 5th February 2024 

NEUBAU’s latest campaign, with the title EUNOIA, presents the rimless collection ‘Sphere’, an entirely new rimless concept from the Austrian eyewear brand, which will be presented at Mido to an international audience. Based on the Greek word meaning ‘beautiful thinking,’ Eunoia is described as a documentary-style exploration of friendship, individuality, and the limitless possibilities of human connections, focusing on friends staying at a villa. The imagery communicates a mood that is evocative and dramatic, with intimate close-up imagery and a striking contrast of colour and black and white shots.

The shoot took place at a villa on Capo Zafferano, with its sprawling beauty, overlooking the impressive gulf of Palermo in Sicily. Above: one of the lead images in the Eunoia campaign, presenting Sphere – shot by Photographer/ Director Max Von Gumppenberg; below “Behind the scenes” images from the EUNOIA shoot – ‘behind the scenes’ by Ole Jacobs

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Credits: Photographer / Director Max Von Gumppenberg; Director of Photography Jakob Stark; Production MVG Studio Oleh Oleh Shypkov; Stylist Andreas Peter Krings; Hair + Makeup Anna Doemling; Talent: Leo Birker, Hannah M. Weber, Jada Joyce

The new Sphere collection by NEUBAU will be available from April 2024. For more information about NEUBAU, the Eunoia campaign and the new rimless collection Sphere, visit www.neubau-eyewear.com

All images supplied for publication on Eyestylist.com courtesy of NEUBAU

Ørgreen Optics release campaign by Petra Kleis

The Danish eyewear innovators present new titanium and acetate styles in the Danish Delight campaign, showing at Mido (Milan) this weekend

Photographed at Ørgeen Studios in Copenhagen, the photographer Petra Kleis played with light and shadow to capture the essence of the all-new Danish Delight campaign. The imagery showcases two models, each embodying a blend of sophistication and intellectualism, accentuated by the contemporary eyewear matched to a selection of bold and colourful designer attire.

Petra Kleis is one of Denmark’s most sought-after advertising, fashion and portrait photographers. Above and below: the images shot by Petra Kleis in Copenhagen – present the new titanium and acetate collections at Ørgeen Optics

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Ørgeen Optics: elegant silhouettes and signature colours – highlighted in the new campaign

The eyewear collection, which includes new models in the Quantum High and HAVN series, is a celebration of craftsmanship and minimal design, featuring designs that are functional, aesthetically appealing, and very wearable. Each photograph by Kleis has been created as a statement of style, an invitation to experience the everyday quality, aesthetic precision and colour stories typical of the Ørgeen Optics brand.

Ørgeen Optics: new acetate colour stories at Ørgeen Optics

The colour palette for both the acetate and titanium models in the new collections revolves around understated hues of eggplant, gun, maroon and metallic blue, interjected with several bright tones including vintage-car-tone fordwood yellow, electric green and rubine red. Ørgeen Optics exhibit at Mido (Milan) from 3rd to 5th February 2024. For more details: www.orgreenoptics.com

Eyestylist Exclusive: Leinz Eyewear x Guillaume Larquemain

Collaboration update Leinz Eyewear x Guillaume Larquemain – French label Guillaume Larquemain and Leinz Eyewear joined forces in 2023 for an eyewear edition. Uniting their mutual love of fashion, creation and innovation, the pair of trailblazing accessory designers created an offering of frames inspired by Larquemain’s unique line-up of luxury, apple canvas handbags. Eyestylist asked the designer Beate Leinz about how the two designers align, ahead of the MIDO show where the eyewear brand will exhibit with new and innovative eyewear releases….

How did you both meet? Guillaume discovered my brand’s profile on Instagram a few years ago. Then he contacted me to see if he could use some of my pieces for his shoot in Paris. He had fallen in love with my contemporary eyewear collection!

What do you both admire about each other’s work?  We are both true designers and really passionate about innovation. As founders of our own indie labels, it makes sense for us to support each other, develop synergies and enrich each-others products. Our creative universes are mutually minimalist and elegant.

Which frame in the collection would you choose to represent one another, and why? Our “One Life” frame with the cool clip looks really good on Guillaume, he particularly appreciates the light weight of the frame. I myself love wearing “Close Your Eyes” which has a strong shape for a more bold look.

Tell us about the inspirations behind this collection / collaboration. Guillaume has an exclusive pattern – inspired by the imperfections of an apple skin – for his luxury handbags, each handcrafted in France. Then, he proposed I create a silhouette to complement this unique style. Pictured above: Close Your Eyes by Leinz Eyewear x Guillaume Larquemain

Say My Name by LEINZ Eyewear: the 3D printed design boasts the innovative glossy pattern that was developed by the designers for the collaboration edition

Did any challenges arise when translating bag design to eyewear design or vice versa?The challenge was finding a solution for applying the pattern to a 3D-printed polyamide surface. We had to source a glossy material that resembles a drop of water, sticks to the plastic surface and meets the wearing conditions of eyewear. After several tests we found a solution, every drop of the pattern is applied to the frame by hand.

As well as this, we were switching industries; translating the production of bags to the manufacture of eyewear. This is always a challenge, but aesthetics and design must of course remain the same regardless of the industry.

Do you think your previous backgrounds in design make it easier or more tricky to dive into each-others worlds? Easier, for sure. Our respective extensive experience in the fashion world helps us to understand each-others specificities. Also, as accessories designers, we love to collaborate by nature.

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What are your views on sustainability within the eyewear and fashion industry? I try to use ecologically high-quality materials in any areas where it makes sense. Our sun clips, for example, are made from a plastic derived from the oil of castor beans, and our new glasses case is made from recycled leather material. We do not use adhesives, “embellishing” plastic coatings, additional lacquers, magnets or metal fasteners. It is important to me that we do not produce and use composite material and favour pure, recycled leather instead. Also, our entire collection is made in Germany – so it is locally produced.

One Life by Leinz Eyewear

Do you think vegan and sustainable products are of the same level of importance? For me, it’s important that whatever I do, I must do it with the appropriate determination – this is why I will never engage in greenwashing.

Even if Guillaume’s apple canvas has all the European environmental agreements, his brand is above all a luxury, French handbag brand. Sustainability is not an option for new generations, it is now part of the process of creation. Myself and Guillaume are both engaged enough as designers to propose these new, unique creations.

What developments if any do you see being made in terms of veganism and the fashion industry? Guillaume had his debut Fashion show in Las Angeles last October, during “Vegan Fashion Week”. There, he presented his collection of luxury bags with his signature material; apple canvas. For this event, the models wore our collaboration. Guillaume had created clothes made with natural materials; linen, cotton and apple velvet, for the first time. He believes new materials are a wonderful source of inspiration for the future, and I am inclined to agree.

Are there any other worlds of design either of you would like to trial next? Yes! I would love to design comfortable, high-quality and mega-cool shoes, made from sustainable materials of course.

Leinz Eyewear will exhibit new innovative 3D printed eyewear designs at the international trade fair MIDO (Milan) this weekend. Visit the website: www.leinzeyewear.de

Interview exclusively for Eyestylist.com by Victoria G. L. Brunton