Design + Inspiration

Sustainability highlighted: opti 2023

The German fair, opti, is welcoming many of the innovators in sustainable eyewear design, as well as several up-and-coming brands with a fresh point of view

Opti Munich, which takes place from 13th to 15th January 2023, is highlighting sustainable eyewear innovations, and will welcome some of the most important leaders and newcomers in the field, brands committed to a more sustainable future, minimising their environmental impact and engaging in activities that are sustainable across all stages of their work. Above: ROLF Spectacles from Austria; the company produces natural eyewear including 3D printed frames made from castor beans. Since its inception, the label has been committed to the production of more climate-considerate products – produced exclusively in the Tyrol – Stand 470, Hall C2 – www.rolf-spectacles.com

Sea2see: model Claudia, made in Italy from 100% recovered marine plastic, made from waste yet stylish and colourful, with intricate combinations and tonal variations

B Corp Certified company, Sea2see will exhibit at Stand 423 in Hall C1. Their “sustainable” frames are made from recycled marine plastic; the waste material is removed from the sea and coastal areas of Africa by their own nonprofit, the Sea2see Foundation. Find out more about their pioneering sustainable activities at www.sea2see.org

NEUBAU Eyewear ‘Shapes of Motion’: sustainable acetate frames, described as “plant-based”

In 2022, NEUBAU introduced their Natural Acetate frames, made from “a purely plant-based material composition of cotton and wood. Contrary to traditionally used acetates, this sustainable material creation is made without harmful components and uses only plant-based plasticizers. As a result, the material is considered biodegradable and particularly environmentally friendly”, states the NEUBAU team. NEUBAU will attend opti with a new collaboration collection with the fashion label ODEEH. (Stand 545 Hall C2) – www.neubau-eyewear.com

Hoffmann Natural Eyewear: luxury frames in ethically sourced natural materials

Hoffmann Natural Eyewear (Stand 641 Hall C1) will attend opti with new classical, luxurious designs in the Timeless DNA Collection. Hoffmann uses exclusive materials which are ethically sourced. An underlying principle at Hoffmann is “being aware of nature’s needs and resources and actively protecting them.” www.hoffmann-eyewear.com

The German brand Leipzig Eyewear will show in the opti BOX area – Photo provided by GHM

Exhibiting in the opti BOX area, Leipzig Eyewear work quite unconventionally in partnership with a local coffee roastery, a local fashion label and a local family business that produces lemonade. “We offer each other mutual support, expertise, networking activities and also models. This saves money and time,” explains Paul Nestler, who is responsible for marketing at LEIPZIG Eyewear. The label was founded two years ago; all production processes at LEIPZIG Eyewear take place under one roof so there are no long delivery routes or wait times for the goods. The materials they use include German stainless steel and polyamide powder from recycled sports clothes. www.leipzig-eyewear.de

opti takes place at the Fairground Munich from 13th to 15th January 2023. Find out more at the website, www.opti.de 

100% Optical – London’s annual eyewear event

The London fair returns from 25th to 27th February 2023

100% Optical, the British trade fair which takes place annually at London’s ExCel, has announced an energetic 3-day edition for 2023, with a line up that includes Keynote speaker Natasha Cazin from Euromonitor talking on Global Consumer Trends. All the industry’s leading organisations, including AOP, ABDO, OSA and AIO will be represented at the event, and over 200 exhibitors across the fields of eyewear, technology, accessories and lenses and contact lenses – will be showcasing new innovations and products at the fair. The edition will include the LOVE Eyewear Awards, a celebration of the creativity in the eyewear design world, with prizes awarded for frames and accessories in numerous categories, from Sustainable Frames to Luxury Eyewear.

Among the creative independent eyewear brands exhibiting at the fair, favourites such as Erker’s, Götti Switzerland, Kirk & Kirk, Ørgreen Optics, SALT. Optics  and Struktur will be joined by 100% newcomers, Pampaloni Silver Eyewear from Florence (Italy), VAVA from Portugal and VYSEN from the USA. Above: Nina Mûr from Madrid returns to London in 2023; their elegant sustainable eyewear will be on show at stand D21.

Fuller by SALT. Optics, a Californian brand with a special draw in the UK

Timeless designs from SALT. Optics remain a popular choice among independent opticians in the UK. Their current line, which is made in Japan, reexplores fine detailing and flattering colorations inspired by nature with exceptionally elegant colour pairings and interesting finishes.

Pampaloni Silver Eyewear from Florence – the company is attending 100% for the first time

Pampaloni Silver Eyewear produces luxury frames which are made of sterling silver, in designs inspired by 19th century eyewear.

Hana in Ice – part of a popular new Limited Edition by Kirk & Kirk, one of the British “eyewear highlights” for 2023 at 100%

Kirk & Kirk remain trailblazers in the UK independent market, encouraging bold colour in bold thick frames that are a popular choice with celebrities including Robert Downey JR and Jason Bell.

The Top Gun by Struktur – from Normandy, France

Struktur returns to 100% with their extensive colourful handmade optical and sunglasses collection. The frames by Struktur have an elegant sculptural look only achievable with artisan workmanship and hand finishing.

100% Optical continues to support the RCA ‘eyewear design’ competition, an initiative that allows future talent to explore eyewear design and key topics such as materiality and sustainability. Now in its 9th year, for this edition of the fair the  competition will focus in on the issue of sustainability with the topic, “Sunglasses that do not cost the earth“.

100% Optical 2023 returns to its home at ExCeL in London from 25th to 27th February 2023, featuring over 200 exhibitors including Erker’s, Nina Mûr, Vava Eyewear, Struktur Eyewear, Kirk & Kirk, SALT. Optics and more. Find out more and register here: www.100percentoptical.com Location: ExCel London, Royal Location: ExCel London, Royal Victoria Dock, 1 Western Gateway, LONDON E16 1XL. Eyestylist is a Media Partner for 100% Optical.

Pantone Color of the Year 2023…for eyewear

“A brave and fearless red shade…” called Viva Magenta

For 2023, Pantone has announced ‘Viva Magenta’ as their ‘Colour of the Year’, a bright pinkish red they refer to as “an unconventional red for an unconventional time.” According to Pantone, Viva Magenta “welcomes anyone and everyone with the same verve for life and rebellious spirit. It is a colour that is audacious, full of wit and inclusive of all”.

The brand states: “In this age of technology, we look to draw inspiration from nature and what is real. Pantone 18-1750 Viva Magenta descends from the red family, and is inspired by the red of cochineal, one of the most precious dyes belonging to the natural dye family as well as one of the strongest and brightest the world has known.”

In eyewear, bright tones of fuchsia and neon pink were already trending successfully in the summer months, and tones related to this palette were fresh and bold in the collections exhibited at Silmo for S/S 2023; the colour palette now extends further with new variations of pink and red and bright combinations, inspired by the intense natural red ‘cochineals’. Above: Agent Provocateur sunglasses by RETROSUPERFUTURE, a brand new collection launched for the current season, www.retrosuperfuture.com

Model Maldives by Lafont Paris in a vibrant fabric print combining bright red with hints of purple

In the fashion press, the Viva Magenta at Pantone is being represented in a multitude of red and pink variations, from Carmine red to berry tones with a very intense pink/purple depth. At Lafont Paris, the new Maldives frame for Spring/Summer 2023 comes in an eye-catching red coloration with patterned fabric sandwiched within the acetate layers. www.lafontparis.com

Viva Magenta by Pantone – Photo: PANTONE

“This year’s Color of the Year is powerful and empowering. It is a new animated red that revels in pure joy, encouraging experimentation and self-expression without restraint, an electrifying, and a boundary-less shade that is manifesting as a stand-out statement….” PANTONE

Materika Piuma (70658) by Look -Made in Italia

At Materika – a brand produced by the Italian brand, Look-Made in Italia, the new Piuma series features a very close colour to the Pantone Viva Magenta, in a shape that is graphic and angular to create a bold and trendsetting optical style. Find out more at https://lookocchiali.it Written by Clodagh Norton – All rights reserved

Lafont Paris: eco-responsible, creative design

The French company has developed new eco-responsible designs in their collections for Spring/Summer 2023 – Eyestylist met with Thomas and Matthieu in Paris

At Lafont Paris, a steadfast ‘step-by-step’ approach to the development of a genuine responsible sustainable path has involved the introduction of bio-acetate and an experimental material concept for colourful Limited Edition “upcycled” acetates.

The ‘creative upcycling’ has been explored as a completely new way to design exclusive colours, first launched by the company at Silmo in 2021 (see: https://www.eyestylist.com/2021/11/creative-upcycling-lafont-paris-and-inouie/). “This is based on a blend of Lafont’s exclusive vintage Lafont colours”, explains Matthieu Lafont. “Developed by my brother, Thomas, this concept can also be seen as a ‘colour lab’. We use a thermo fusion process to create a mix of 50% vintage colour and 50% new bio material. This specific technique is for the moment only produced in special limited quantities.”

At Silmo 2022, Lafont Paris introduced the third series Limited Edition with model Monaco in four exclusive “upcycled colours” of red, pink, blue and yellow (pictured below, the Monaco in yellow and full set in presentation box). Above: Matthieu and Thomas Lafont – Silmo Paris 2022 – photography by Amanda Sellem, all rights reserved

 

“A desire for balance: new products shown in bright colours with a creative spirit, alongside an offer with a sober and elegant identity faithful to the Lafont identity. To work on my palette of colours, I wanted to associate a word, an emotion, an expression with each colour…” Thomas Lafont on the new collection for Spring/Summer 2023

Thomas Lafont at Silmo 2022 – photography by Amanda Sellem

 

 

Eco-friendly styles: Max in the Issy & LA collection at Lafont Paris – and above, model Miss in bright pink

“Reducing our impact on the environment as a company is a very important goal,” said Matthieu Lafont at Silmo Paris. “To make it a reality, we have introduced a step-by-step approach.

Matthieu Lafont – Silmo 2022 – photo by Amanda Sellem

Considering the everyday activities of the company and the design and production of the collection, we are repurposing and recycling, and using bio-acetate or castor oil injected materials. We always consider the quality of our manufacture, efficiency in after sales and availability of spare parts for repair.” Find out more about the collections at Lafont Paris by visiting their website at www.lafont.com

Royalty in eyewear: Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses

With the latest series of ‘The Crown’ airing on Netflix this month, we were reminded of some of the most striking iconic frames worn by Royalty – designed by the British eyewear brand, Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses. 

Celebrity and sunglasses go hand in hand and Oliver Goldsmith has been pivotal in framing some of the most famous faces on the planet.  The Royal Family have always played a special part in the historic make-up of the Oliver Goldsmith story; from Princess Caroline of Hanover to Grace Kelly (Princess Grace of Monaco) who famously had a vast collection of OG sunglasses, and a little closer to home – exceptional loyal support by the British Royals; Princess Margaret, Lord Snowdon, Princess Diana and Prince Charles, now King Charles III. Above: Be-Be sunglasses by Oliver Goldsmith sunglasses – as worn by Princess Grace – the sunglasses were featured in a book called ‘Grace. Princess Grace of Monaco. A tribute to the life and legacy of Grace Kelly.’ A double page spread features her Ogle (sunglass style pictured below), Be-Be and Ritva sunglasses created by Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses

From the archives: front cover of Weekend and Titbits (1984): Charles wearing the Carl sunglasses and Diana in the oversized Berwick sunglasses by Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses
Original catalogue entry of the Carl sunglasses, as worn by King Charles (then Prince Charles)  in 1985

Princess Diana had many defining moments when it came to her fashion choices, and even today she is referenced time and again. “Her style, vision and the brave and dynamic sartorial choices she made make her one of the most recognised women on the planet and we are proud to have framed her so regularly,” says Claire Goldsmith.  In fact, Claire (Goldsmith) regales in the stories of her childhood; her mother dancing round the kitchen in a pair of broken sunglasses; when she asked who they belonged to, her Mother replied that they were Princess Diana’s – her father (Ray) had been asked to go to the Palace to fix them!

Chas in Dark Tortoiseshell, one of the many OG sun styles worn by Princess Diana – the iconic frame is available in the Oliver Goldsmith sunglasses collection today

In 2021, Vogue (UK) wrote an article focusing on Diana’s eyewear choices and in it she is predominately wearing Oliver Goldsmith sunglasses (https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/gallery/princess-diana-sunglasses).  They included her firm favourite, the famous white aviator, Berwick https://www.olivergoldsmith.com/product/berwick/, which is still in the Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses collection – and coming back soon in a wash of new colours – to Nisha (designed in 1987), Monaco and Chas (an old favourite).

Diana also wore ‘Rio’, another style that will be coming back into the collection soon. Carl is available as a bespoke archive piece, but as with all the archival frames at the company, anything and everything can be made to order on request! To view the latest collections at Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses visit www.olivergoldsmith.com – Special thanks to Zoe Cosby at Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses for researching the Royal styles for Eyestylist.com