Reviews

Piero Massaro: couture eyewear, made in Italy

The new collection by Piero Massaro explores couture refinement in eyewear as a “sculptural form”

Qualities such as proportion, colour balance, material depth, and sartorial discipline lie at the heart of Piero Massaro’s design philosophy. In the latest collection, the Italian eyewear designer turns his attention to the sculptural potential of frame design, reaffirming a vision shaped by his formative years in the Milan fashion scene and refined since the founding of his own atelier in the Veneto in 2002.

In Couture Visiva, the new collection, the frames are conceived not as mere accessories, but as wearable design objects. Produced in limited, numbered editions and crafted from meticulously selected Mazzucchelli acetate – “developed according to specific requirements defined by the Creative Director, Piero Massaro”, each piece shows a commitment to material excellence and artisanal expertise. Unveiled at the Mido eyewear show in Milan, the collection reflects the designer’s longstanding conviction that eyewear should return to its original context: one rooted in tailoring, craftsmanship, and expressive cultural gesture. Above: the Couture Visiva collection is characterised by bold, sculptural forms in fine acetate, pictured, model PM952 – each style is produced in a limited and numbered edition of 100 pieces

Detail: Piero Massaro – transparent tortoiseshell acetate with green insert on temple, model PM952

About the brand: founded in Italy in 2002, Piero Massaro Eyewear has developed its own distinctive identity rooted in Italian design culture and influenced, says the designer, by the Mediterranean light and Sicilian landscape. The brand, which produces small batch collections exclusively, is distributed through a selected network of premium optical boutiques worldwide. In 2014, Massaro won the Jury’s Special Prize at the Silmo d’or event in Paris for his frame, PM415.  He also won the Japan Eyewear Award in the Ladies’ Eyewear Category in 2020. For more information visit www.pieromassaro.it

Piero Massaro was last featured on Eyestylist in 2018 in our Silmo review: www.eyestylist.com/2018/09/silmo-parisian-style/

This feature was written by Clodagh Norton and AI was not used in the writing of the words. 

Sharp geometric design work at FACE A FACE

The 3.0 collection features sharp lines, standout volumes and curves which clash with angles

FACE A FACE introduces a selection of new styles for Spring/Summer, designed to turn heads with an assertive, colourful presence. Femininity is interpreted as sharp, powerful and unapologetic, while the bold approach to form presents standout volumes where curves clash with angles and lines feel slick and sharp.

New concepts like MINDS and ETTO embody this boldness of design: the sculpted, geometric frames are characterised by unexpected colours and colour combinations, from futuristic green to ultraviolet and a striking burnt orange. Every detail, every flash of colour, and every concept of form and structure reveals something new and bold in character. Above: model Minds 1 by FACE A FACE explores a play of facets reminiscent of a kaleidoscope. The shape is described as “a hexagon turning within a hexagon”

Bocca Chance 1 by FACE A FACE

Taking a new step for the Bocca concept at FACE A FACE, Bocca Chance 1 has an organic shape with a sharp, striking geometric look. A luminous effect is created through the elegant acetate where transparency comes into play along with temples which offer contrast through a light and milky pastel pink. The style is described by the design team as “burning with incandescence”. The traditional Bocca concept of the footwear design for temple tips is, for this model, interpreted as a miniature black boot with tiny high heel.

ETTO 1 by FACE A FACE features a unique temple design

Model Etto 1 is both colourful and chic. The frame has a round eye shape, and a particular temple detail described as a rectangular section clamped into the frame front as if it were being held in a  carpenter’s bench vise – creating a point of tension and the opening of the eye shape. The refreshing colours include the lilac patterned tortoise proposal above and a beautiful “mandarin crystal” with pink temple detail. Find out more about the new collection at www.faceaface-paris.com

PRESS Eyewear: luxurious Carved collection

Among several new releases at Mido this weekend including colourful buffalo horn frames, Press Eyewear showed the prestigious Carved Collection, crafted in 4mm block titanium

Imagined as a tribute to jazz, and some of the world’s most iconic musicians, the Carved Collection embodies the signature character and style of the New York luxury eyewear brand, paying rigorous attention to quality and technical sophistication while really making an impact through remarkable construction, material combinations and colour. Above: model Trane in the Carved Collection by Press Eyewear

Trane by Press Eyewear: eyewear with presence and an acute attention to the finer details

“We have had so much success with our metals, and this new collection adds an entirely new dimension to that story. Jazz has always been a part of my life – my father was a jazz musician – and I grew up immersed in that world, inspired by the brilliance of the music, influenced by the style and attitudes of the 1950s and 60s and an expression of true coolness which was deeply refined. For our metals, I have always wanted to bring the construction into play with a unique refinement that feels like jewellery on the face…and I think jazz music does that – it is so expansive and refined at the same time that you get this amazing impact from it… Jeff Press, President + Designer, Press Eyewear

Chet by Press Eyewear: the optical pieces are timeless, balancing a minimal luxury style with a creative interpretation of vintage-inspired features such as the end tips and nose bridge

The first four styles in the Carved Collection – Miles, Diz, Trane and Chet – inspired by greats in the world of jazz, launch in five subtle colourways as sun or optical variants. Each frame is crafted in 4mm block titanium and features recessed acetate rims. The pieces are light and comfortable thanks to the prestigious quality of the materials inspired in their 3-dimensionality by the beauty of horn – both in terms of their aesthetic and the bold unforgettable statement. The sunglasses feature Zeiss sun lenses, and all versions feature custom spring hinges and custom nosepads with silicone covers. Find out more at www.presseyewear.com

Round eyewear: Morel x Jean Nouvel

More than five years ago, the French eyewear company, MOREL launched a collaboration with French architect, Jean Nouvel. The partnership marked a deliberate crossing of disciplines, translating architectural excellence into optical design through pared-back forms, precise lines and a focus on material quality.

This season marks a new episode in the relationship between MOREL and Jean Nouvel as the latest collaboration collection, marked by round eyewear with a “bold and assertive” character, launches. With architecture-inspired round shapes and bold lines, combined with subtlety in titanium and acetate, each piece is designed to balance structure with a contemporary design language.

MOREL par Jean Nouvel – the collaboration is in its 6th year

Compared with previous models in the line, these new styles feature thinner profiles and a bold new colour palette with the highlighted tones, fir green and teal blue, and terracotta for the titanium models. There are also softer, more masculine tones for acetate, presented in a range of elegant natural browns, a new alternative to Nouvel’s signature colour, black. Find out more about MOREL par Jean Nouvel at https://www.eyestylist.com/2024/11/morel-par-jean-nouvel-the-latest-collection-has-arrived/

Boem Atelier: Eyewear Sculptures

Designed by Aleš Boem, this brand new collection is conceived as a series of wearable sculptures — objects that live on the body yet could just as naturally, belong in a gallery

Each style by Boem begins as a digital sculpture, carefully designed and refined over several days before reaching its final form. Produced in very small quantities, each frame requires an extensive cycle of printing, refining and finishing. Crafted in Bohemia, the designs combine lightweight nylon, gold-tinted UV400 lenses and precisely engineered stainless-steel spring hinges. Select editions incorporate a gold finish created in collaboration with Preciosa. All the models are being released in numbered, limited quantities and each one expresses a different relationship to nature and materiality. Above: Boem Atelier Eyewear Sculptures, details of the ‘Boemian’ frame

Boem Atelier: Eyewear Sculptures

“Nature doesn’t hustle. Nature takes its time – growth is slow, patient, imperfect. Every flower, stone or branch is sculpted by forces we can’t speed up. That’s why it lasts…” Boem Atelier

Offering four models, each one is shaped by a different natural reference: florals, stone-like surfaces, naturally growing interwoven plants, and a silhouette that appears like hand-sculpted clay. As a nod to the beaty of natural pattern, the frames are released in gold, silver and bronze tones.

About the designer / Originally a graphic designer, Aleš Boem is a Czech product designer with a particular interest in material experimentation and manufacturing processes. He is the designer behind FURIOSA Shades and the winner of a Red Dot Award in 2019 for the design of public furniture for the city of Prague.

Find out more about the designer and Boem Atelier at https://boem.co/